I have the ISOwhatever certified eclipse glasses, plus DIY filters. The DIY filters are cardboard-framed Baader Solar film special mylar - usable/affordable for people with big lenses, big refractor or reflector telescopes. $25.00 for one A4 size, does your big white or refractor, plus some left over for binoculars. These aren't the sturdiest option (I am punching holes in the home-made holders for tie-down strings), but these should do fine. Mine looks like Matt's but in white cardboard. That's a fun transit, Matt! You are 100% correct, Live View is your friend.
What is important for eyesight is that the ISO certified eclipse glasses have extra infrared and UV coverage vs your basic Big Stoppers. Your cameras have IR/UV cut filters already covering their sensors, your eyes don't.
Not me! I will take a nice day off and hang out at a local conservation area, two cameras, two tripods in hand. Start those batteries charging....now.
Calculates solar elevation angle and azimuth angle:
https://www.esrl.noaa.gov/gmd/grad/solcalc/azel.htmlGo to Wikipedia or other source to get approximate latitude and longitude, look up time of totality on NASA site in the area of interest, plug that date and time and Lat/long into above solar elevation / azimuth calculator - out comes the numbers of interest. My area (in MO) has elevation ~59 degrees (ie, 31 degrees from zenith), azimuth ~215 degrees (SSW)
So, for full frame camera in portrait mode, the 21 mm ought to give me plenty of composition (82 degrees view long axis, 60 degrees short axis) - I just need some attractive prairie flowers or a nicely shaped tree as the anchor in the composition. I am not looking for "spectacular", I am looking for "region-characteristic". Plus, there's the 400mm plus 1.4x TC option for the APS-C camera for my very own corona shots during totality.