Upgrading to Medium Format - Key Questions that I have.

[Doug Peterson]

The XF is an insanely beautiful camera, almost in Bauhaus style design. But I have heard that honeycomb autofocus doesn't work too well.

I also heard that Truefocus really works well.

I'm in a way heavily leaning towards Hasselblad. Many years ago, my equipment was stolen on my way to Moscow (from where I took the Transsib to Beijing) Suddenly I had no gear. You couldn't, at that time, just go an buy a camera in Moscow. So I went on the black market and bought a Kiev, a Russian Hasselblad copy. It served me well on my trips through China, Japan, and Malaysia - but you couldn't get the lens off. It was  way heavier than the Hasselblad and a mirror slap like a Kalaschnikov - but I still loved the solid shooting experience.

But I keep my mind open.

What would you say is the key difference of Leaf, Phase One, and Hasselblad backs?

If you take the name brand off I feel the XF has a lot in common with the intangible elements of the hasselblad 500 series.

I'd strongly strongly suggest against *reading* about AF performance. Of all attributes of a camera the hand-feel and AF are the most personal and subjective. Especially since you live in a city where putting your hands on an XF to evaluate its AF yourself.

[Joe Towner]

Thanks, Joe, for pointing out all those options!

One thing: I still have those old Profoto 7b battery powered generators. With a Canon I used Canon Pocketwizards. How would I trigger the flashes from a Hasselblad - the packs don't have anything fancy like Profoto Air.

Do Pocketwizards - the classic one - work with Hasselblad and would I get the fast sync times of the leaf shutter lenses?

Both cameras can trigger off the hotshoe or the sync port.  I think that PocketWizards are good to about 1/400th or 1/500th and then you may have timing issues.  A new set of triggers may fix this, but I'd test with a cable sync first.  Check out https://captureintegration.com/definitive-guide-to-medium-format-high-speed-sync/

As Doug says, you really need to try out the AF on the XF in person.  Also, the new IQ1-100mp is at the same $33k price point, but there are a lot of 60mp & 80mp CCD backs out there, and if your workflow and shooting style match up, it's a good thing to consider, and they're the larger chips (same size as the 100mp).

I think the big question left is what about MF is driving this decision?  Mind you, I'm a pixel addict and can't get enough, and that's what drove me to my Hass (cheapest I could find at the time).  There are used combo's possible on both product lines to get you a back, body and lens or two for under $10k.  That may be enough for you, or you may be better putting $15-20k down and going with a higher mp, plus a few features.

[The View]

If you take the name brand off I feel the XF has a lot in common with the intangible elements of the hasselblad 500 series.

I'd strongly strongly suggest against *reading* about AF performance. Of all attributes of a camera the hand-feel and AF are the most personal and subjective. Especially since you live in a city where putting your hands on an XF to evaluate its AF yourself.

Yes, many photographers put out test reports and they may have pilot errors during flight with a camera.

[The View]

Both cameras can trigger off the hotshoe or the sync port.  I think that PocketWizards are good to about 1/400th or 1/500th and then you may have timing issues.  A new set of triggers may fix this, but I'd test with a cable sync first.  Check out https://captureintegration.com/definitive-guide-to-medium-format-high-speed-sync/

As Doug says, you really need to try out the AF on the XF in person.  Also, the new IQ1-100mp is at the same $33k price point, but there are a lot of 60mp & 80mp CCD backs out there, and if your workflow and shooting style match up, it's a good thing to consider, and they're the larger chips (same size as the 100mp).

I think the big question left is what about MF is driving this decision?  Mind you, I'm a pixel addict and can't get enough, and that's what drove me to my Hass (cheapest I could find at the time).  There are used combo's possible on both product lines to get you a back, body and lens or two for under $10k.  That may be enough for you, or you may be better putting $15-20k down and going with a higher mp, plus a few features.

Looks like the Pocketwizard Plus III set to fast can achieve the high sync times.

I care about light quality and sharp detail - and I just heard from a friend who's a very busy commercial photographer - he shoots with a H2 and a P45.

If he can serve his expensive clients with an older back, I will be fine as well.

The only thing is that the older backs/Hasselblads have no dust sealing. And I love to shoot wilderness. I do things like walk out into the desert and stay there, shooting, for three, four days. Would the dust cause a problem there let's say with an H4d and a P45+ as an example? (I heard from a guy who took his H3Dii up and down the Amazon river... with all that humidity!)

[TonyVentourisPhotography]

In terms of nature etc....have you considered the pentax 645?  Price with lenses isn't too bad.  And it has the articulating screen.  Great if you get down load or do odd perspectives for nature shots. 

Getting down to the viewfinder at ground level of a classic medium format that is not a 500cm is painful.  Luckily the hassy can pop its viewfinder off...but I don't like doing this out in the field.  Maybe a thought to consider.  A lot of my nature work is done at low angles. 

[DiamondsDr]

Hi, decision is yours but i suggest don't ditch your current setup before you get used to a new one and maybe they can compliment each other and one not necessarily "better then the other one", there are good points above, to me in terms of brand h vs p is like bron vs pf, each one is good, but h and pf have big "second hand market" which is key for me for example, you can get in good condition h3dii-31(i used to use this one before upgrade) for around 3k, or h4d31 for around 4k or newer system from hasselblad cpo program, phocus sowtware is good for processing but adobe camera raw is also good when properly profiled...

[The View]

Hi, decision is yours but i suggest don't ditch your current setup before you get used to a new one and maybe they can compliment each other and one not necessarily "better then the other one", there are good points above, to me in terms of brand h vs p is like bron vs pf, each one is good, but h and pf have big "second hand market" which is key for me for example, you can get in good condition h3dii-31(i used to use this one before upgrade) for around 3k, or h4d31 for around 4k or newer system from hasselblad cpo program, phocus sowtware is good for processing but adobe camera raw is also good when properly profiled...

Where would you preferably buy a second (or third, fourth) hand Hasselblad or Hasselblad with Phase One back?

Also: The H3Dii - is it true there is no dust sealing? What do you do on location? I almost exclusively shoot on location, very little studio.

[The View]

In terms of nature etc....have you considered the pentax 645?  Price with lenses isn't too bad.  And it has the articulating screen.  Great if you get down load or do odd perspectives for nature shots. 

Getting down to the viewfinder at ground level of a classic medium format that is not a 500cm is painful.  Luckily the hassy can pop its viewfinder off...but I don't like doing this out in the field.  Maybe a thought to consider.  A lot of my nature work is done at low angles.

I ruled out the Pentax because of 1. very small and not very good lens lineup 2. No leaf shutter lenses - flash sync time 1/125th

Getting into MF I want to use really great lenses.

[BernardLanguillier]

Where would you preferably buy a second (or third, fourth) hand Hasselblad or Hasselblad with Phase One back?

Also: The H3Dii - is it true there is no dust sealing? What do you do on location? I almost exclusively shoot on location, very little studio.

You use a rain cover?

Cheers,
Bernard

[The View]

You use a rain cover?

Cheers,
Bernard

rain cover = dust cover.

I took a look and there doesn't seem to exist anything closely fitting (like those old leather pouches for very old cameras) - only quite unhandy plastic tent style covers that would be in the way.

The best would be some kind of tight fitting and made sure measure cover that seals off dust and humidity.

[BernardLanguillier]

Making one of these isn't that hard, is it?

I would not worry too much about this aspect unless you shoot in the cold and are facing potential condensation problems.

Cheers,
Bernard

[Joe Towner]

Don't discount the Pentax off hand - they have glass no one else even comes close to.  For starters, their AW designation means you're set for shooting in any condition, without a cover.  They also have IS/VR in the 28-45 and 90mm Macro.  One thing that you may not know is the Priolite and other 'long duration' strobes actually will hot sync fine all the way to 1/4000th.  Finally, there are Pentax 645 A LS lenses, so if you're fine with manual focus (because you can live focus and have focus peaking) you can sync at 1/500th.

The X1D will speak Nikon TTL, but the 645z actually will do full TTL with remote speedlights.

I've shoot the 645Z in rain and snow, no issues what so ever.

I'll toss this out here - the current CPO from Hasselblad - http://hasselbladbron.com/cpo.pdf

In naming, you should know that the H4x or H5x are the bodies you'd want to use with either film or a PhaseOne back.  The H4D is specific to Hasselblad backs.

[The View]

Looking around I found a Hasselblad H2 with a Phase One P45+ at a good price.

But the Hasseblad has 80 000 actuations, and the back 100 000.

Would you still buy such a much-used unit?

[The View]

Making one of these isn't that hard, is it?

I would not worry too much about this aspect unless you shoot in the cold and are facing potential condensation problems.

Cheers,
Bernard

And one could still put electrical tape on the joint line of back and camera which should seal it off perfectly against the flying sand in the desert.

[Theodoros]

As there is a major change in the digital market happening these later years. My opinion is for you to wait so that the picture is complete, or get something simple and cheap that you won't regret in the future.

[Doug Peterson]

As there is a major change in the digital market happening these later years.

Can you think of a time in the last two decades when this wasn't true?

[Joe Towner]

Looking around I found a Hasselblad H2 with a Phase One P45+ at a good price.

But the Hasseblad has 80 000 actuations, and the back 100 000.

Would you still buy such a much-used unit?

Quantify what you mean by a good price.  The back doesn't really care about the number of shots, while the body will, and if there's an issue, you'd most likely be replacing it.  I'd most likely compare the combo to the price of a H4D-50 as the H1/H2 bodies don't have TrueFocus.  The reason folks would do a Phase+Hasselblad combo revolve around needing CaptureOne support or just not liking the 645DF/DF+ bodies.

Have you confirmed that you'll get the color and files you're looking for?  What lenses are you looking at, and what else will you need to get shooting?

Tape around the gap between the back and body is only one of the entry points i'd worry about - the lens mount and the eye piece mount both offer easy access to dust & grime.

Any time you purchase private party, make sure you have a plan if there is an issue with the gear.

[Theodoros]

Can you think of a time in the last two decades when this wasn't true?

It wasn't as long as the CCD backs lasted... Between a P25+ and a P65+ there is nothing much other than resolution (which IMO is the least important factor to consider).

[landscapephoto]

I thought the Hasselblad H5D would be great with its True Focus II. What about the H4D by comparison (there are more around and at better prices). Is the H3Dii already too old to be a good choice? (I heard Hasselblad no longer services them - where would you get this camera serviced then?)

There is little difference between the H3Dii-50, H4D-50 and H5D-50, basically the H5D-50 is faster and the H3Dii-50 may miss focus a few times. Nothing really essential. The H3Dii can still be serviced, BTW. You are confusing with the original H3D (and even that camera can be serviced in many cases).

If I were you, I'll try to get a H4D-50. They still work very well and if you don't like it, you will be able to sell the camera without losing too much money.

Disclaimer: I am using an H4D-50 myself. I don't feel the need to upgrade.

[BernardLanguillier]

Can you think of a time in the last two decades when this wasn't true?

What is happening now with mirrorless is a major transformation though, probably only second in scale to the switch from film to digital.

I would argue that this is in fact the first major transformation in the past 20 years.

Cheers,
Bernard