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Author Topic: What are the essential adjustments that SHOULD be done in the raw processor?  (Read 39325 times)

Robert Ardill

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I compared with a back lit photo of a deer standing in saw grass which I made at 3200 ISO moments before the sun came over the horizon and turned it into a silhouette. I pushed the exposure 2/3rds of a stop in the RAW conversions.

I was fairly impressed with the DxO results.

In this instance I had already prepared a finished picture, based on using Topaz Denoise as a first step after conversion, that I thought I was satisfied with. The new DxO version has replaced it in my master files.

I wasn't as pleased with the color rendition of DxO for my camera and had to use Photoshop to get what I wanted to see, so the dialog about when and where to work with color has been interesting.

I've had another go at the image I posted above and DxO did a much better job this time (or rather I didn't do as bad a job :) ).  For some reason, reset leaves Smart Lighting on and this distorted the results.  In fact DxO did a better job than Topaz (both under my non-expert guidance admittedly). The residual noise is very fine whereas with Topaz it is blotchy. The black level is held much better (even with black level adjustment in Topaz). However it does tend to see small details like ripple in the water as noise and so the resultant image is flatter than the Topaz image. That could probably be improved on, but as DxO is very slow it's a bit of a pain.  If the preview was full-size as in Topaz it would help a lot.

For anyone who's interested, here is a crop comparison. DxO V Topaz DeNoise

Robert
 
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Jack Hogan

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Hi Jack ... yes, yes; but you and Bart don't seem to be in agreement on this.  Or perhaps you are in that the benefits of, say, making chromaticity changes before rendering to the chosen working space is generally too small to be noticeable.

We agree (or at least mostly I agree with Bart).  As for chromaticity, it shouldn't change if using the correct color profile.

What might change that view though is if there are repeated changes.  In the raw converter these are presumably all applied at once (perhaps in the same way that multiple layers in Photoshop (may) result in one cumulative change (??)) whereas on the tiff (if the changes are not made using adjustment layers) the repeated changes may well result in a noticeable degradation.

The fact is unless you plan to butcher the image 16 bits is aplenty for anything one can throw at it in a normal workflow.  And floating point is subliminally more and more part of PP.

BTW ... when you said that the choice of color profile is fiendishly difficult ... what did you mean?  If you meant that it's hard to choose whether to use ProPhoto or BetaRGB or AdobeRGB or sRGB then surely this isn't so hard?

The color profile is what makes or breaks color, that's why there is something to be said for using a manufacturer's crappy software.  It is intimately connected to white balance and EC.  Most people underestimate this, Anders Torger docet.
The working color space is an order of magnitude less critical for 99% of us.  Choose whatever makes sense for your output medium.

Jack
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Robert Ardill

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The fact is unless you plan to butcher the image 16 bits is aplenty for anything one can throw at it in a normal workflow.  And floating point is subliminally more and more part of PP.

What is PP? If it's ProPhoto then I don't see how floating point would in any way apply to it and not to all other workspaces (which it does not).

Quote
The color profile is what makes or breaks color, that's why there is something to be said for using a manufacturer's crappy software.  It is intimately connected to white balance and EC.  Most people underestimate this, Anders Torger docet.
The working color space is an order of magnitude less critical for 99% of us.  Choose whatever makes sense for your output medium.

OK, I was just checking on what you meant by color profile because there are quite a few at play in the raw to tiff process.  I would have thought that companies like Adobe, Phase One and DXO would have the knowledge by now to create camera profiles as good as the manufacturer's.  But, if you're right, then this would be a good reason to stick to the proprietary raw file and not use DNG.

As a check I processed an A7RII image using Sony's raw convert and ACR.  The Sony tiff was considerably punchier than the ACR image with the camera profile as Adobe Standard or Camera Standard.  However, with the profile selected as one I created with DNG Profile Editor, using the Color Checker target, the two were to all intents and purposes identical (which surprised me quite a bit).

Here is a crop of the image.



With the images layered above each other in Photoshop, and the top layer blend mode set to Difference, the only differences (without applying a strong levels adjustment) are due to less purple fringing in the ACR version because I removed more in it (I used a non-achromatic closeup lens).

I must say that I have been very impressed with the job that DNG Profiler does - and so incredibly easily.  To me this is probably the single most important step in the raw conversion as it makes a huge difference to color fidelity.

Cheers

Robert
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Jack Hogan

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What is PP? If it's ProPhoto then I don't see how floating point would in any way apply to it and not to all other workspaces (which it does not).

Post Processing.  As in any advanced plug-in.


I must say that I have been very impressed with the job that DNG Profiler does - and so incredibly easily.  To me this is probably the single most important step in the raw conversion as it makes a huge difference to color fidelity.

There's your color profile.  I think we have closure.

Jack
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earlybird

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Following my interest with DxO's Prime noise reduction I tested with some landscapes I had photographed using ETTR exposure ideas.

I found that I could not replicate the color rendition I get with Adobe Camera RAW, and I slowly realized through reading that DxO's Color Rendering dialog is offered on this premise: "You can choose to give images shot with a DxO Optics Pro supported camera the look and feel of any other DxO Optics Pro supported camera." ( from http://www.dxo.com/us/color-rendition-profiles ).

I am disappointed to conclude that DxO has prioritized OpticsPro's internal camera/lens identification and automated decision making to the extent that it seems limited in its ability to render color when compared with Adobe Camera RAW and the custom dual illuminant camera profile that I use.

I can get acceptable, even good results with some photos with DxO Optics Pro but I can't get match the good results I get with ACR with the full variety of exposures I make and process.

I did find a work around of sorts where I disengaged almost all of OpticsPros parameters and simply run the Prime noise reduction through an "Export to Photoshop/Process as DNG and export" process. This launches Adobe Camera RAW and lets me do all the color work there. This may be be an option for me when working with noisy images, but it has soured the optimistic thought that I had perhaps learned about a superior workflow for RAW conversion.

DxO's lack of suitable color profiling for my camera makes it seem


As a reminder, my interest in learning about DxO OpticsPro was sparked by Bart's mentions that noise reduction performed before demosaicing can have benefits. I still find that idea very interesting.
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Robert Ardill

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I can get acceptable, even good results with some photos with DxO Optics Pro but I can't get match the good results I get with ACR with the full variety of exposures I make and process.

As a reminder, my interest in learning about DxO OpticsPro was sparked by Bart's mentions that noise reduction performed before demosaicing can have benefits. I still find that idea very interesting.

I've had another go at DxO noise reduction on a very high ISO image and again I got very poor results, even though I was super careful and am a bit more familiar with the package.  Like you I keep going back to Lightroom and Photoshop as they are really very hard to beat, assisted with some plug-ins.

If you haven't done so, try Topaz DeNoise.  It does the best job for me with high noise images. Lightroom itself isn't bad (excellent for color noise), especially if the image isn't too noisy.

I've no doubt that Bart is right that it is theoretically better to denoise before demosaic (which DxO claims to do, I think), but Jack's comment about advanced plug-ins using floating point (and possibly processing the image in linear space) most likely gets over quite a bit of this potential advantage.  As Bart also mentioned, the ease of use is an important factor too, and if the differences between doing something early in the process are very minor or not noticeable, then the easier option is probably the better one. I find that DxO is painfully slow and I just couldn't see myself using it in the long run (in fact, the very slowness makes it bad because it is so time-consuming to tweak the settings and then re-render that one might well put up with a sub-optimal result rather than go through the whole process again). On the other hand, Lightroom is very fast and Topaz DeNoise is reasonably fast - and the whole suite of Lightroom, Photoshop and Topaz works perfectly and seemlessly together.

Every now and then I try other raw converters, but I have always gone back to Lightroom, because I think it's the best overall program and the claims that people make about the superiority of other raw converters doesn't stack up with my tests.

Cheers

Robert
« Last Edit: March 19, 2016, 11:22:54 am by Robert Ardill »
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tho_mas

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Any conversions from one color space to another will potentially cause clipping, color shifts etc., so going from raw to ProPhoto, say, and then converting that to a smaller color space (which is automatic for viewing, clearly) is a bad idea IMO.  So I would make as much of the color adjustments in the raw converter as possible and then go to Adobe RGB, and only make color tweaks in the tiff if necessary.
Best Practise when working with Capture One is to embed the "camera profile" when processing. This will effectively prevent clipping (by design!... since you leave your files in the source profile). And this way you'll store your TIFs in a color space that is not too large (like ProPhotoRGB).
The term "camera profile" in C1 is a bit misleading. The so called "camera profiles" are actually camera-specific table based "working spaces" (providing a neutral grey axis). Therefore you can also leave your files in the embedded "camera profiles" for further editing in Photoshop (unless you do compositings containing image content from different devices/color spaces) and first convert to any other color space with regard to specific targets (print, web, whatever...).
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Robert Ardill

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Best Practise when working with Capture One is to embed the "camera profile" when processing. This will effectively prevent clipping (by design!... since you leave your files in the source profile). And this way you'll store your TIFs in a color space that is not too large (like ProPhotoRGB).
The term "camera profile" in C1 is a bit misleading. The so called "camera profiles" are actually camera-specific table based "working spaces" (providing a neutral grey axis). Therefore you can also leave your files in the embedded "camera profiles" for further editing in Photoshop (unless you do compositings containing image content from different devices/color spaces) and first convert to any other color space with regard to specific targets (print, web, whatever...).

Are you sure about that?  This C1 technical article seems to say otherwise: C1 Color Spaces
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tho_mas

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AFairley

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So, if I understand you correctly, the following should ideally be done before demosaicing:
- Tonal adjustments
- CA
- Color adjustments
- Deblur (do any of the raw converters currently offer this? I guess not or else you wouldn't be using Focus Magic)
- Color noise reduction
- Luminosity noise reduction (if the raw converter does a decent job of it, which LR doesn't IMO, don't know about C1)

Correct?



Robert

To this I would add, if the raw converter is correcting lens distortions such as barreling or pincushioning, perspective corrections, so that pixels are being remapped only once instead of remapping remapped pixels.
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tho_mas

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yes, I am

to elaborate a bit further …

Capture One’s „internal Color Space“ is actually able to produce ALL mathematically possible RGB colors … so it’s not limited to ProPhotoRGB or any other synthetical color space.
But C1 works with icc input profiles that effectively limit the gamut utilized for a given camera when editing in C1. The shape and the volume of those input profiles („camera profiles“) is very different… depending on the camera model. Some are similarly sized as AdobeRGB … some are much larger.
The thing is you will always effectively work within the boundaries of the input profile (unless you do boost the saturation in the Advanced Color Editor).

Here’s an example of a Leica M9 file (from the imaging resource site).

First the file and the respective settings in C1.
In the Base Characteristics tab you’ll see „Leica M9 Generic“ which is the input profile (the so called „camera profile“).
In the Process Recipies tab you’ll see „Embed Camera Profile“ selected.
(Attachment 01).

I’ve processed the image and opened the TIF in Chromix Color Think together with the actual „camera profile“.
The wireframe shows the Leica M9 Generic profile and the dots the colors utilized in this particular image.
(Attachment 02).

I’ve then boosted the saturation to 100% (in the „Exposure“ tab) and also applied a steep curve to intentionally oversaturate the image. The respective screenshot shows the resulting colors and again the Leica M9 Generic profile.
As you can see all colors stay within the gamut of the Leica M9 generic profile (not only in my short exercise … you can play around with any settings of your choice… and you will see that you will never exceed the gamut of the input profile).
(Attachment 03).

So… as far as clipping goes best practise is to avoid any color space conversion unless it’s really needed (for instance when you apply Color Edits on layers … in this case you have to select an output space that is suited to contain all colors utilized in the image. Personally I try to avoid using ProPhotoRGB ... Rec2020 for instance is a much better choice, IMHO).

« Last Edit: March 19, 2016, 04:34:05 pm by tho_mas »
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Robert Ardill

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to elaborate a bit further …

Capture One’s „internal Color Space“ is actually able to produce ALL mathematically possible RGB colors … so it’s not limited to ProPhotoRGB or any other synthetical color space.
But C1 works with icc input profiles that effectively limit the gamut utilized for a given camera when editing in C1. The shape and the volume of those input profiles („camera profiles“) is very different… depending on the camera model. Some are similarly sized as AdobeRGB … some are much larger.
The thing is you will always effectively work within the boundaries of the input profile (unless you do boost the saturation in the Advanced Color Editor).

So… as far as clipping goes best practise is to avoid any color space conversion unless it’s really needed (for instance when you apply Color Edits on layers … in this case you have to select an output space that is suited to contain all colors utilized in the image).

This is an important decision when going from raw to RGB, so it's worth thinking about it a bit.  The logical choices are to use the camera's color space (as you suggest with C1 ... but not possible in Lightroom, say), to use a standard RGB matrix-based working space, or to use an output color space. 

The matrix-based working space has obvious advantages in terms of size and smoothness and simplicity, and translates well to our (linear) monitor color spaces, so this would be the first obvious choice.

The camera color space seems to me to make little or no sense because you will never output back to your camera and its gamut may lie significantly outside that of our output devices (mainly printers and monitors).

So if you want to use a color space that absolutely maximises the printable or displayable colors then you should choose:
- sRGB if the intended output is to Web or if you know (from soft-proofing, say) that your image colors are within sRGB and will stay within sRGB.
- Adobe RGB if your monitor is near 100% Adobe RGB and you are satisfied that there are no printable colors in your image that you absolutely want (even if you can't see them on your monitor). Again you can tell this by soft-proofing.
- The output device ICC profile if you want to maximise the printable colors (bearing in mind that you need to make sure that this is a very good profile based on a large swatch, and you make sure you are working in 16 bits). Again you can make this decision with soft-proofing.
- Some generic table-based ICC profile that covers all printing devices if you don't know what your output profile will be (with the same proviso as the output device profile).

I personally think that for most images that Adobe RGB is a good choice if a simple workflow is wanted.  Then for very specific images (for example reproductions of paintings with very saturated colors) the output ICC profile for the specific printer/paper could be used.

Robert
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earlybird

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If you haven't done so, try Topaz DeNoise. 


Thank you Robert. Yes, Topaz Denoise is the tool I usually use for denoise processing.
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tho_mas

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This is an important decision when going from raw to RGB
no, it is not. Going from RAW to RGB takes place in the RAW Converter. In Lightroom for example the internal color space is "Melissa-RGB" (ProPhoto-RGB primaries), in Iridient Developer the internal Color Space is ACES and in Capture One you can choose whatever you want your camera specific "internal" color space to be (by default it's the input profile provided for each camera model but you can change and/or edit the input profile). So when you talk about AdobeRGB or sRGB or so you are talking about a second conversion from RGB to RGB (from the internal Color Space of the RAW software to any other RGB color space).
So the only thing to decide is WHEN to convert to any working space (or output space). I feel much better keeping the initial RGB color space (ProPhoto-RGB in Lightroom, ACES in Iridient Developer and the "camera profile" in Capture One) as a kind of 1:1 16bit TIF copy of the processed RAW file and first convert to any other color space when need is (with regard to a specific application). I see no reason to choose a "working space" without knowing what the final target is (or what kind of editing I will apply to the file in question).
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bjanes

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no, it is not. Going from RAW to RGB takes place in the RAW Converter. In Lightroom for example the internal color space is "Melissa-RGB" (ProPhoto-RGB primaries), in Iridient Developer the internal Color Space is ACES and in Capture One you can choose whatever you want your camera specific "internal" color space to be (by default it's the input profile provided for each camera model but you can change and/or edit the input profile). So when you talk about AdobeRGB or sRGB or so you are talking about a second conversion from RGB to RGB (from the internal Color Space of the RAW software to any other RGB color space).

How many times must we point out that Mellisa is not the working space in ACR/LR. Mellisa has ProPhoto primaries and an sRGB TRC and is used to compute the color readouts and histograms. The working space is unnamed and uses ProPhoto primaries and a linear TRC.

So the only thing to decide is WHEN to convert to any working space (or output space). I feel much better keeping the initial RGB color space (ProPhoto-RGB in Lightroom, ACES in Iridient Developer and the "camera profile" in Capture One) as a kind of 1:1 16bit TIF copy of the processed RAW file and first convert to any other color space when need is (with regard to a specific application). I see no reason to choose a "working space" without knowing what the final target is (or what kind of editing I will apply to the file in question).

I use ACR/LR for most of my work and agree that one should render into 16 bit ProPhotoRGB with ACR rather than trying to fit the gamut of the image into the working space (usually sRGB, Adobe RGB, or ProphotoRGB). With LR the image stays in the linear space until printing or export and, short of soft proofing, there is no good way to determine if the editing parameters place the image in the gamut of sRGB or AdobeRGB. It is true that editing may result in color that can not bee seen on the monitor or printed with available printers, but LR does have a monitor gamut warning and the Digitaldog has pointed out that if saturation adjustments produce no visible change on the monitor, one has exceeded the gamut of the monitor. Later on, you may get a better printer or monitor, so why limit your options?

Bill
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tho_mas

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How many times must we point out that Mellisa is not the working space in ACR/LR. Mellisa has ProPhoto primaries and an sRGB TRC and is used to compute the color readouts and histograms. The working space is unnamed and uses ProPhoto primaries and a linear TRC.
sorry for the confusion! At least the part regarding ProPhoto Primaries was correct... ;-)
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Robert Ardill

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How many times must we point out that Mellisa is not the working space in ACR/LR. Mellisa has ProPhoto primaries and an sRGB TRC and is used to compute the color readouts and histograms. The working space is unnamed and uses ProPhoto primaries and a linear TRC.

I use ACR/LR for most of my work and agree that one should render into 16 bit ProPhotoRGB with ACR rather than trying to fit the gamut of the image into the working space (usually sRGB, Adobe RGB, or ProphotoRGB). With LR the image stays in the linear space until printing or export and, short of soft proofing, there is no good way to determine if the editing parameters place the image in the gamut of sRGB or AdobeRGB. It is true that editing may result in color that can not bee seen on the monitor or printed with available printers, but LR does have a monitor gamut warning and the Digitaldog has pointed out that if saturation adjustments produce no visible change on the monitor, one has exceeded the gamut of the monitor. Later on, you may get a better printer or monitor, so why limit your options?

Bill

If you do most of your color adjustments in Lightroom then you can always go back to your raw file and do whatever tweaks you want at any time, so you won't be limiting your options and will be able to make full use of your new monitor or printer.

If you don't want to lose your Photoshop adjustments then you can use a smart object, which means you can render into any working space or output space you want, whenever you want.

I agree that if you are working in 16-bit that the choice of working space is less critical, but the wrong working space can potentially result in clipping or posterisation. I'm sure you've all seen this tutorial (and Bill, I know you know all this already (and I am not being sarcastic)), but it is nevertheless a very clear and useful summary of the issues: Cambridge In Color sRGB v ARGB.

At any rate, what color space you use is entirely up to you, of course.  But I remember not so very long ago thinking that ProPhoto had to be better because it was larger and that Lab was even better because it was much larger still, not having a clue that I was doing all sorts of horrible things to my image. 

So I think that it's a good discipline to ask oneself, before rendering an image to a color space, or converting to another color space, what the destination of this particular variant of the image is and whether or not the image gamut will fit into the intended space.  For example, if the destination is going to be the web and we ask ourselves this question, then we will almost automatically do a soft-proof with gamut-warning to check that it does fit and we will be sensitive to the color shifts and clipping that may occur on the conversion if it doesn't fit (and find ways to make these less intrusive).  If we do not ask ourselves the question then we are more likely to blindly convert and forget or not realize that we may end up with a poorer result than we could have done.

Of course it depends on one's workflow.  In my case I will (now that I understand the issues a bit better) make the decision: web or printer, in Lightroom.  If I can't then I will wait until I know what I want to do with the image, or I'll use a smart object.  I think that the processing of the image is very dependent on the destination. For example, noise reduction and output sharpening will not be the same for a small web image as for a very large print on a wide-gamut printer.  Other things are common, for example the bulk of tonal and color adjustments, deblur, geometric distortion, chromatic aberration correction etc.  Which strongly suggests (to me) that these should be done in the raw converter if at all possible.

The Lightroom virtual copy feature is particularly nice for this because we can have a variant for each intended destination very easily.  The bulk of the adjustments can be made on the master and then we can have a virtual copy for the web and one for print and we can make the final tweaks there while keeping our master intact.  Then, if at a later stage we get a wonderful new printer with a much larger gamut ... well we can just make another virtual copy or modify our print virtual copy.

Which really goes back to my original topic question (which was, by the way, triggered by an article by Michael Reichmann who said "The major steps which I take in Capture One are to choose the appropriate camera profile, do a white balance, and then set black point and white point. These are the critical steps that need to be done in raw mode (my bolding). I then export the file to Lightroom for further processing. I send the file as a 16 bit TIFF. ").  So I wondered if he was right or not ... and based on our discussion here I wouldn't say that he was wrong, exactly, but then again I don't think he was right either.  These probably are the essential steps, but they are certainly not the only steps that would benefit (in some cases significantly) from being done pre-rendering to TIFF.  Of course the choice of profile for the TIFF is itself an essential choice to be made prior to render (unless one uses C1 and chooses (unwisely IMO) to use the camera profile).

So for me it's still going to be sRGB first,  Adobe RGB second, Beta RGB third ... depending on the image and the destination ... and then if I absolutely need it, ProPhoto RGB (or perhaps the printer profile if I know precisely what the printer and paper are going to be).  I know that the digitaldog vehemently disagrees with this ... but it's a free country fortunately, so each of us can do what he wills :)

Robert
« Last Edit: March 20, 2016, 03:41:54 pm by Robert Ardill »
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ErikKaffehr

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Hi,

I would perhaps think that a natural colour space may be XYZ…

On a serious note, I would say that working in a linear space is essential in order of keeping tonality changes consistent with colour, that is a change in density should not introduce a change in colour.

A nice feature in Lightroom is that we can change colour display to Lab. It is very more useful than three RGB numbers. Foremost, it decouples luminance from colour.

Best regards
Erik

How many times must we point out that Mellisa is not the working space in ACR/LR. Mellisa has ProPhoto primaries and an sRGB TRC and is used to compute the color readouts and histograms. The working space is unnamed and uses ProPhoto primaries and a linear TRC.

I use ACR/LR for most of my work and agree that one should render into 16 bit ProPhotoRGB with ACR rather than trying to fit the gamut of the image into the working space (usually sRGB, Adobe RGB, or ProphotoRGB). With LR the image stays in the linear space until printing or export and, short of soft proofing, there is no good way to determine if the editing parameters place the image in the gamut of sRGB or AdobeRGB. It is true that editing may result in color that can not bee seen on the monitor or printed with available printers, but LR does have a monitor gamut warning and the Digitaldog has pointed out that if saturation adjustments produce no visible change on the monitor, one has exceeded the gamut of the monitor. Later on, you may get a better printer or monitor, so why limit your options?

Bill
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tho_mas

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I would say that working in a linear space is essential in order of keeping tonality changes consistent with colour, that is a change in density should not introduce a change in colour.
is there any RAW-Converter that does NOT work in a linear space?
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Denis de Gannes

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Quote "I would perhaps think that a natural colour space may be XYZ…
https://www.flickr.com/photos/baxter43/5355713456/in/album-72157625678052039/On a serious note, I would say that working in a linear space is essential in order of keeping tonality changes consistent with colour, that is a change in density should not introduce a change in colour." end quote.


I have worked with several different raw converters and each and every one including ACR / LR; SilkPix; Capture One; DxO Labs; Olympus Viewer (my cameras software); DC Raw etc all produce different colour renditions. i.e. do a test shot with a GreyTag Macbeth Colour target and do a WB on the neutral patch then check the other colour patches and you will not see that none match. i.e. each and every raw conversion software applies their own colour profile (recipe). 
« Last Edit: March 20, 2016, 05:29:40 pm by Denis de Gannes »
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