For an exhibition of large panos images I had them mounted on Gatorboard, I then varnished and finished with a thin metal frame.
I really like this look. Interested in doing it all myself at home. And I don't want to buy a table saw
Wondering what I need to know about cutting gatorboard (or do I really need a table saw?), what adhesive to use (assume some pressure activated film -recommend any?), what tools I need etc.
A resource would be good (website or book) and if your in Australia, wholesale suppliers. Thinking of getting an account at Antons.
And also when to use Foamcore vs Gatorboard/kappaboard. I understand gator has a harder surface...assume Foamcore would be too soft for exposed prints.
Finally, what kind of lifespan can I give to a varnished print on Gatorboard? Any special care instructions for cleaning etc?
Gator comes in white and black, I prefer black. Most gator I have used is not considered Archival as it contains formaldehyde among other nasty stuff. However the glue I use (Miracle Muck) creates a layer that is neutral that so far has kept any major pass through contamination issues. However just be aware of this. Black is easier to work with with white glue or mounting tissue as you can see the material. It will have no issues with the print, i.e. darkening.
Foamcore in my experience is best used with mounting tissue, like Bienfang rag mount. Larger prints, than same 24 x 36 you might want to consider 1/2. I don't like using wet mounts on foam core, like M Muck.
Gator comes in 3/16 and 1/2 (possibly other larger sizes), and both can be cut by hand with a straight edge. Gator has a unique ability to snap, so all you have to do is make a straight cut, grab both sides and snap the rest. This will sometimes leave a slight ragged edge, but you can sand that down, but also if you are going to frame it, (I would), you won't see it. So cutting, just get a good straight ledge, and utility blade and cut away.
I only use gator for either RC paper or canvas, I do not mount rag (fiber) based paper to it. RC is a great paper to use, however you still have an exposed face and it will scratch. Canvas is the best solution and I use this a lot in my work and prints for others. Reason, it gives a easy way to get a longer print, cheaply mounted without the risk of dust or other trash showing under the print. RC and gator is totally unforgiving as RC has a hard surface as does gator so any trash will show up as a bump. Canvas, is to me much easier to mount, I use muck for my mounts. You will need to coat the canvas, even glossy canvas as all inkjet canvas is aqueous. So during the mounting you possibly may get water or muck on the face of the print. If this happens odds are you will pull ink off. Some do this a bit differently, with a heat press. You can roll on the muck, let it dry, then lay your canvas on the dried muck and put it in a heat press, the heat re-activates the muck and it makes a perfect bond. Only problem is a large heat press, they tend to be hard to find (and when found are not cheap to use).
I have mounted up to 36 x 96 on 1/2 gator for a single print (and would rather do this than stretch such a print), and have made several 4 part prints, each part being 36 x 72 allow 1/2 gator. You have a ton of framing options available to you, just make sure you have a 1/2 rabbet on the frame. You can use metal or wood.
Gator is also a bit more forgiving for shows, as you can easily just open the frame, pull out a print, place a new one and show, whereas, a stretch, mean, pulling off the current canvas, (trashing that print) and re-stretching a new print. Much more time.
Lifespan, so far, I have not seen any issues, fading, or peeling on the works I have produced over the last 10 years. With canvas, I have always coated the front to help prevent UV fading, with Timeless, and before that Glamour II.
You can read more here:
http://photosofarkansas.com/2015/03/16/mounting-canvas-to-substrate-producing-an-excellent-option-for-framing-a-canvas-print//As with everything, there is not one right way to do this, but this article can give you some good ideas.
Paul