Have You Ever?

[wickedweather]

Printed an image and had no idea what settings you used to achieve the look and feel and been completely unable to reproduce the print? Me neither - I would never do that. I'm just asking for a friend 

Seriously I'm so frustrated. I was hoping the Canon 4100 would have some type of history that was easily accessible but I'm not having any luck there. Any tips or tricks?

[Ryan Mack]

I use ImagePrint as my RIP (not that it's really a RIP for Canon, but it acts like one). It logs every setting and you can reprint anything from it's job history. It doesn't make a lick of difference for image quality but it makes my workflow so much easier, reliable, and reproducable.

[digitaldog]

Printing with a Lightroom Classic print template stores everything.

[Ernst Dinkla]

Printed an image and had no idea what settings you used to achieve the look and feel and been completely unable to reproduce the print? Me neither - I would never do that. I'm just asking for a friend 

Seriously I'm so frustrated. I was hoping the Canon 4100 would have some type of history that was easily accessible but I'm not having any luck there. Any tips or tricks?

Qimage Ultimate's  interactive logfile. The file I make regular back-ups off as I would be lost without it.

Ernst, op de lei getypt.

[aaronleitz]

I print via Canon PP&L from master tiff files created from Photoshop files. All of the adjustments made to the image for printing are clearly labeled layers in the PS file - organized together in a layer folder. In general I try to keep the reliance on third party applications in my workflow to a minimum (even Lightroom). I don't touch anything beyond the "general settings" tab in Canon PP&L.


 

[wickedweather]

I print via Canon PP&L from master tiff files created from Photoshop files. All of the adjustments made to the image for printing are clearly labeled layers in the PS file - organized together in a layer folder. In general I try to keep the reliance on third party applications in my workflow to a minimum (even Lightroom). I don't touch anything beyond the "general settings" tab in Canon PP&L.

So I have the image in question in the exact form I want. Initial edit in DXO Photolab - then to Nik for final edits - then to Photoshop for resizing and print prep and then finally off to Canon PP&L. The problem is there. Sometimes I do make slight brightness adjustment and I am always using ICC or AMX1 files or using the PP&L Black and White option. Are these decisions stored or logged anywhere in CPP&L?

[wickedweather]

Here are a couple pictures of what I'm trying to solve. I am 98% sure that these two images are printed on the exact same paper. Hahanemuhle FA Baryta Satin. The riddle is this: What did I do INSIDE of Canon Professional Print and Layout to achieve the one without the sheen? It has an incredible muted metallic look and I cannot duplicate it.

All options and any combination of options are on the table mostly due to my inexperience. I could have:

- Told the printer I was printing on a different media
- Used a different ICC profile
- Used the correct ICC profile
- Printed with the Canon Black and White option
- Used some form of stock Canon profiles (Baryta, Semigloss, heavyweight fine art, etc)

I'm guessing there are way too many variables at play - I just can't even come close. It's like it's an entirely different paper altogether.

[langier]

I sometimes use my MK ink on luster and other coated stock when I print to my Epson printers. The deep blacks then have a matt, metallic-light sheen to them. It's almost like a spot-varnish that was once used in fine book printing in years past.

Perhaps fooling your printer and telling it you are are printing on matt paper could be the key...

I figured out this years ago when it took forever to switch over my printers from Matt Black to Photo Black and it can look cool in some situations. I never tried then running UV varnish on the print later but perhaps that would get you back to a "normal" look on coated stock with the matt ink.

[wickedweather]

I sometimes use my MK ink on luster and other coated stock when I print to my Epson printers. The deep blacks then have a matt, metallic-light sheen to them. It's almost like a spot-varnish that was once used in fine book printing in years past.

Perhaps fooling your printer and telling it you are are printing on matt paper could be the key...

I figured out this years ago when it took forever to switch over my printers from Matt Black to Photo Black and it can look cool in some situations. I never tried then running UV varnish on the print later but perhaps that would get you back to a "normal" look on coated stock with the matt ink.

At the time I made the image, I had just received a roll of Photo Rag 308 Smooth. Now you have me wondering if I somehow left the settings for Photo Rag 308 in place but swapped the paper back to Baryta Satin. Will give that a shot tomorrow. Thanks.

[wickedweather]

I sometimes use my MK ink on luster and other coated stock when I print to my Epson printers. The deep blacks then have a matt, metallic-light sheen to them. It's almost like a spot-varnish that was once used in fine book printing in years past.

Perhaps fooling your printer and telling it you are are printing on matt paper could be the key...

I figured out this years ago when it took forever to switch over my printers from Matt Black to Photo Black and it can look cool in some situations. I never tried then running UV varnish on the print later but perhaps that would get you back to a "normal" look on coated stock with the matt ink.

Larry - You are my printing hero! That was it. I printed with Hahnemuhle Photo Rag Smooth Profile which uses MK and it came out exactly like the other one. I'm glad I mistakenly stumbled upon it and that you were able to point me in the right direction because it's a pretty cool look.

Thanks again - Jake

[Lessbones]

uhh, be careful doing that-- matte K ink will rub off or just even blow off super easily from glossy papers

[wickedweather]

uhh, be careful doing that-- matte K ink will rub off or just even blow off super easily from glossy papers

It doesn't seem any different than photo black on the Baryta Satin and Red River Palo Duro Soft Gloss Rag that I printed the image on. To be fair, I haven't rubbed them down, but I generally don't do that. Maybe it wouldn't behave very well on a full blown glossy paper, but it's working well on the Baryta and the luster style Red River paper.

[MfAlab]

uhh, be careful doing that-- matte K ink will rub off or just even blow off super easily from glossy papers

That's my experience too. Matte black ink didn't work well with glossy papers. It's very fragile from scratching or rubbing.

[Panagiotis]

uhh, be careful doing that-- matte K ink will rub off or just even blow off super easily from glossy papers

The media type the OP used to produced the effect is (I assume from the info in the thread) based on "Heavyweight Fineart paper" which uses both black inks simultaneously (MBK/PBK).
The Canon PRO series has this ability.
The result is different (better looking) form using only matte black (MBK), is stable and does not peel off.
The same media type for achieving the same effect is recommended by Hahnemuhle for the Photo Rag Satin paper (which is a glossy paper printed like a matte paper).

Merry Christmas to all,
P.

[MfAlab]

The media type the OP used to produced the effect is (I assume from the info in the thread) based on "Heavyweight Fineart paper" which uses both black inks simultaneously (MBK/PBK).
The Canon PRO series has this ability.
The result is different (better looking) form using only matte black (MBK), is stable and does not peel off.
The same media type for achieving the same effect is recommended by Hahnemuhle for the Photo Rag Satin paper (which is a glossy paper printed like a matte paper).

Merry Christmas to all,
P.

I didn't check the reference paper of hahnemuhle papers on Canon PRO4100, thank you for the explanation. That makes sense.

I've tried mixing MK/PK ink on glossy papers. By controlling the ratio of two black inks, it could be use on glossy papers and boost the Dmax. Sadly, no OEM driver could do a real control or fine-tune it. I tested that with QTR and custom excel calculating formulas.