Camera Shake

[marvpelkey]

Have never used a Mirrorless, and recently ordered one (3-4 week arrival). So, have started reading up and watching various YT instruction videos.
I recall from a number of years ago, a Michael Reichman video discussing camera shake and his testing which showed, on a tripod, a DSLR when activated with a cable release, continued to vibrate (from mirror slap) for up to 12-14 seconds until perfectly still. So he recommended raising the mirror with the first release push button, waiting up to 12 seconds, then hitting the release a second time to take the photo. I have stuck to this process since then (predominately landscapes).
However, in many of the Mirrorless videos, the presenters suggest using the cameras time delay (some suggested 2 seconds while others suggested 3 seconds). This was when activating the camera by hand with the shutter button.
So, my question to those who have used a Mirrorless, is 2-3 seconds sufficient for complete cessation of vibration? I understand there is no mirror slap/shake but what about the vibration caused by hand-activating the shutter button?
Can't yet test it myself.
Marv

[mcbroomf]

If I have to use manual release and delay then I set it to 5 seconds (I have 2,5,10 as options with Sony).  If for some reason I'm on a very flimsy mount I'll change to 10.  But I always inspect by zooming in to max to verify good focus as well as sharpness from vibration.  Bear in mind that the vibration from my hand pushing the shutter will not be the same as yours.

[marvpelkey]

mcbroomf,

Thanks for the reply. Although I have not read the whole manual, it appears the only delay options are up to 3 seconds (but I could be wrong on that). I think I will pick up a cable release so only have to worry about vibration on the first shot (until I move the tripod/camera, of course). I am used to this method with my DSLR (mirror up) so it won't be much different.

[Simon J.A. Simpson]

My experience, using both DSLR and mirrorless cameras, is that it can take up to ten seconds to settle down after you've touched the camera.

You can check this by having a live image displayed on the back of the camera and using magnification set to maximum and watch the image to see how long the camera vibrates for.

I use and electronic shutter release plugged into the camera.

[langier]

The only way to know for sure is to test your technique and check the files after.

First thing to do is to make sure everything is properly tightened down so there's less chance of mechanical movement with your tripod, head, camera mounting.

Faster shutter speeds are less an issue than most everything from about 1/60-1/125 and slower and usually, a cable is the best bet.

Another solution is to do a time delay and then instead of a single frame, capture 3-6 frames, increasing your changes.

If you can't find your cable, another way that still works from back in the days of film and motor drives, is to put the camera on continuous-high and shoot several frames. Usually, since you are not moving once the button is held down, after the first couple of frames the camera will settle down and you'll get a couple of frames without camera movement.

[mcbroomf]

The other option if there is only a limited # of seconds delay is to use a remote.  Depending on the camera a cheap 3rd party IR remote up to a native App and smart phone may be available.

[marvpelkey]

Thought I might add an update -

Received the camera (Nikon Z7ii) well earlier than promised and have gone through initial set up (not finished with that yet) and a bit of first use. At the time of pick up, I purchased a cable release, thinking vibration would then not be an issue.

As a quick aside, coming from medium format film cameras, then a D3X followed by a D810, holy crap is this thing small! I had no chance to handhold a model prior to ordering but wanted this particular model because it was small and easy to walk around hand-carried as well as for extended hikes, but I did not expect it to be so tiny. But I will get used to that....

Anyway...I have a cable release for the 810 that screws to the front and I just leave it attached whether in use or in the bag, and have never experienced a problem over the last dozen or so years. However, the cable for the 7ii is a push-in that requires removal/attachment for each time it is used, a bit of a pain. The rubber cover for the cable port also covers two other ports, so those two are exposed when in use, not great in inclement weather. And I did a couple test shots with various durations of delayed exposures and it seems even at 3 seconds there is a tiny (visible at 200 or more percent) bit of shake. But I will have to experiment a bit more on that to see if with practice I can perfect my technique.

Marv

[Rob C]

Thought I might add an update -

Received the camera (Nikon Z7ii) well earlier than promised and have gone through initial set up (not finished with that yet) and a bit of first use. At the time of pick up, I purchased a cable release, thinking vibration would then not be an issue.

As a quick aside, coming from medium format film cameras, then a D3X followed by a D810, holy crap is this thing small! I had no chance to handhold a model prior to ordering but wanted this particular model because it was small and easy to walk around hand-carried as well as for extended hikes, but I did not expect it to be so tiny. But I will get used to that....

Anyway...I have a cable release for the 810 that screws to the front and I just leave it attached whether in use or in the bag, and have never experienced a problem over the last dozen or so years. However, the cable for the 7ii is a push-in that requires removal/attachment for each time it is used, a bit of a pain. The rubber cover for the cable port also covers two other ports, so those two are exposed when in use, not great in inclement weather. And I did a couple test shots with various durations of delayed exposures and it seems even at 3 seconds there is a tiny (visible at 200 or more percent) bit of shake. But I will have to experiment a bit more on that to see if with practice I can perfect my technique.

Marv

Your post regarding the Nikon 810 made me think of the late, great Peter Lindbergh, who used his, often hand-held, with what I think was a 70-200 Nikkor…

It also brought to mind the days of the Hassy 500 Series, when Hasselblad actually sent around a leaflet showing the difference between using mirror-up and not using it. I remember their example photos as being made with a 150 lens, but that might be me just projecting my own experiences onto their circular. A decade or so ago I would have remembered with certainty. ;-)

[marvpelkey]

Rob,

Speaking of the good old days, over the years I have owned/used Canon and Nikon film cameras, 2 medium format film cameras (one a Bronica that was built like a tank, really liked that one), a few Nikon DSLRs and now a mirrorless Nikon. Each change was predicated on "better" (whatever that is....), with the latest purchased because the D810 and its lenses just became too heavy to cart/hike around anymore.

A few years after digital arrived, there was a trove of articles and YT videos of people expressing a desire to go back to film. Now, with mirrorless, I have seen a wave of nostalgia for the "old" DSLR. I must admit I am finding it difficult to embrace mirrorless and am sort of glad I held on to the D810 (but for its weight). But I still hold the Bronica in high esteem. Go figure......

Marv