I heard back from Eric at Adobe:
if you (manually or otherwise) adjust the old NR sliders prior to running Denoise, those slider values will be reset to zero on the new DNG, and the effect of those sliders will not be baked into the DNG. In other words, the new DNG will have only AI Denoise applied, and no manual/legacy NR applied. So, it's as if you're starting fresh.
The reason for this behavior is that AI Denoise was trained and designed to be used alone, without any of the manual/legacy NR applied. This said, I recognize that in some cases, even with AI Denoise, there may be some residual noise that a photographer may wish to clean up manually afterwards, so the manual NR controls remain available to use "on top of" AI Denoise.
So that totally clarifies it.