Luminous Landscape Forum
Equipment & Techniques => Cameras, Lenses and Shooting gear => Topic started by: Nir_Hason on October 29, 2014, 09:17:46 am
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Hi,
I know that many people asked this question already and there are a lot of YT videos on it, but my question is more specific.
I want to move from crop to FF and I don't know if I do need to switch from Canon to Nikon. Because moving from crop to FF it's a big step from me that's why I'm thinking on the option to switch (if I had FF Canon DSLR already wouldn't open such topic at all).
Photography for me it's only an hobby, and I do care about image quality.
Mainly I'm shooting:
- Landscapes and nature (I'm not doing wildlife).
- Street photography.
- Macro, not extreme.
(You can check my flickr (https://www.flickr.com/photos/99706377@N05//)and see)
My current gear is:
- Canon 650D
- Canon 70-200 f4 IS
- Canon 100m 2.8 macro
- Tokina 11-16 ATX 2.8 II
- Canon 18-66 kit lens.
- YNG flash for canon.
For what I'm shooting which DSLR will give me the best for what I'm doing? or maybe there is no a big difference.
I know that the 6D is better in low light, and of course I can use it without changing my lenses. What I don't like about the 6D it's feels like Canon removed some 'pro' DSLR features (like focus sys, dual slot) from it.
The D610 got a better AF system and a sensor with more dynamic range (good for landscapes, right?).
The problem moving to Nikon is that I need to sell all my gear.
So do you think that the switch is the right thing to do, there will be a big difference for my type of photography?
I do want to buy with the new DSLR another lens - Sigma 35 1.4 and in DXoMark I saw that it's one of the best lenses for the 6D.
Thank you in advanced!
Nir.
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Considering that it costs only 400 US$ more, I would also consider the D750 that offers even more than the D610 (it is a competitor to the 5dIII), including what may be the best AF available.
After you factor in lenses prices and think over 3-4 years, this initial 400 US$ gap will be mostly irrelevant.
Cheers,
Bernard
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I am a bit biased, as I do have the 6D and have not used a recent digital Nikon body. For landscape and nature (excluding fast-moving wildlife and birds), an 11-point AF system is fine. In fact, I tend to manually focus most of the time with landscape, all of the time with macro. Dual cards I don't care about, as I have not had a card fail, and I am not shooting professionally where even an 0.01% failure, if it happens to you, can be a reputation killer. Most of the time when I shoot landscapes with the 6D I am working on a tripod and am using live view, and the live view implementation on the 6D is good and one can shoot from live view (which is the equivalent of mirror lock up). The low light performance of the 6D is very good, and this matters to me because I like to shoot astro-landscapes. I would like more dynamic range than the 6D possesses. I don't know how the Nikon 610 rates for DR and low light use. I have started using graduated neutral density filters, to supplement my other strategies of post-processing gradient-making.
There are a lot of options for macro for Nikon, both new and old Nikkor lenses, and some very good third party lenses by Tamron and Sigma. In theory you could try to find an adapter to fit your Canon to a Nikon mount, but you would lose infinity focus and electronic communication to the camera. My Canon macro is the EF 180 f/3.5L - I like long focal length macros - both for the bokeh and for the distance separating me from shy (or venomous) critters. The Nikon equivalent is the well-regarded 200 f/4, which is an old design about to be refreshed - but that means that a lot of copies will be hitting the used market soon.
I love the Sigma 35mm f/1.4 Art. Great landscape lens, and decent bokeh for when you want to shoot at f/1.4. Splendid for astrophotography. This and the tiny (and cheap at under 200 bucks USD, and dam' sharp) 40mm f/2.8 STM are the "normal" lenses for my 6D. The 40mm f/2.8 STM is inconspicuous and might be better for "street" than the Sigma f/1.4. I haven't yet bought a modern 50 to 55 mm lens for it, but have some legacy manual Nikkors and Mamiya-Sekors that I use with adapters.
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I am a bit biased, as I do have the 6D and have not used a recent digital Nikon body. For landscape and nature (excluding fast-moving wildlife and birds), an 11-point AF system is fine. In fact, I tend to manually focus most of the time with landscape, all of the time with macro. Dual cards I don't care about, as I have not had a card fail, and I am not shooting professionally where even an 0.01% failure, if it happens to you, can be a reputation killer. Most of the time when I shoot landscapes with the 6D I am working on a tripod and am using live view, and the live view implementation on the 6D is good and one can shoot from live view (which is the equivalent of mirror lock up). The low light performance of the 6D is very good, and this matters to me because I like to shoot astro-landscapes. I would like more dynamic range than the 6D possesses. I don't know how the Nikon 610 rates for DR and low light use. I have started using graduated neutral density filters, to supplement my other strategies of post-processing gradient-making.
There are a lot of options for macro for Nikon, both new and old Nikkor lenses, and some very good third party lenses by Tamron and Sigma. In theory you could try to find an adapter to fit your Canon to a Nikon mount, but you would lose infinity focus and electronic communication to the camera. My Canon macro is the EF 180 f/3.5L - I like long focal length macros - both for the bokeh and for the distance separating me from shy (or venomous) critters. The Nikon equivalent is the well-regarded 200 f/4, which is an old design about to be refreshed - but that means that a lot of copies will be hitting the used market soon.
I love the Sigma 35mm f/1.4 Art. Great landscape lens, and decent bokeh for when you want to shoot at f/1.4. Splendid for astrophotography. This and the tiny (and cheap at under 200 bucks USD, and dam' sharp) 40mm f/2.8 STM are the "normal" lenses for my 6D. The 40mm f/2.8 STM is inconspicuous and might be better for "street" than the Sigma f/1.4. I haven't yet bought a modern 50 to 55 mm lens for it, but have some legacy manual Nikkors and Mamiya-Sekors that I use with adapters.
Hi Nancy, thank you for the help, i will take what you're saying in consideration.
I think that the 35 1.4 will be much better for both street and landscape.
Considering that it costs only 400 US$ more, I would also consider the D750 that offers even more than the D610 (it is a competitor to the 5dIII), including what may be the best AF available.
After you factor in lenses prices and think over 3-4 years, this initial 400 US$ gap will be mostly irrelevant.
Cheers,
Bernard
As I mentioned, photography is an hobby for me, and I already spent some money on it. I do know that lenses are expensive and I do want to invest in glass more then a DLSR body (after I'll move to FF).
I'm living in Israel and photography equipment is not so cheap here. So 400$ do count for me, because I can invest that money (and put some more $ of course) on a lens. I'll switch to Nikon I'll need to sell my gear and buy the new body and some lenses for my usage. It will be something like:
- UW lens
- Sigma 35mm 1.4
- some sharp tele lens
- macro lens (that I can buy in the future, not so critical for me right now, even though I like macro).
Buying that gear will cost more money if I will take the D750 (400$ more). I know that I opened this topic on which one do you think I need to pick up based on the info I gave you, and I didn't mentioned the financial part, which is quite important, and that's why I asked if you think that the differences between the two DSLR are worth selling my gear and buy new one.
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I am not recommending you to switch to Nikon, but if you do then going for a D750 is IMHO a reasonably low cost high value addition that would probably account for less than 10% of the cost.
Being able to get access to that level of image quality/AF/functions at that price point is IMHO the biggest appeal of the Nikon system at the moment.
Cheers,
Bernard
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I am not recommending you to switch to Nikon, but if you do then going for a D750 is IMHO a reasonably low cost high value addition that would probably account for less than 10% of the cost.
Being able to get access to that level of image quality/AF/functions at that price point is IMHO the biggest appeal of the Nikon system at the moment.
Cheers,
Bernard
I don't think a switch is worth it. You won't be able to recoup the investment in your 70-200 and 100 Macro.
Also, Canon and Nikon have different color, ergonomics etc.
Edmund
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The price premium for moving to full frame lenses and bodies is on average $1000 more per item than their crop equivalents.
I did not read anything in your initial query that suggests why you need full frame, other than perhaps better image quality.
Ultimately you will make up your own mind, and you may have already done so, however, the issue of crop vs. full frame image quality is really not as dramatic as perhaps it once was. I feel you are better off applying money towards a photo related trip than a full frame body.
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There is a cheap, effective, contemplative and fun way to increase image quality with very little investment that is called stitching. It doesn't apply to all types of images, but judging from your Flick stream, a good deal of your images would be stitchable probably those that would benefit most from higher resolutions. ;)
It will even increase the DR of the 650D by reducing the magnification required for a given print size.
Your 650D can easily top 25,000 US$ digital back single frames with good lenses such as your 100mm macro or 70-200 f4. ;)
Cheers,
Bernard
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Capital - I'm using my friend's Canon 6D sometimes and I see a big difference (with my lenses) in the shots: color, DR, quailty in low light (I'm facing it when I'm shooting street photography afternoon or in shadow places and I need to bump my ISO higher then 800, the image is BAD).
The functionality of the 6D is much better and more natural from the current 650D. Better weather sealing - nice thing for the landscape photography.
So I will move to FF, and now I have the answer - 6D :)
BernardLanguillier - Can you give me a link to this method, I will be happy to learn about it (or it's just a regular stitching like panorama stitching?)
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You will enjoy the 6D and will enjoy one of the following: Sigma Art 35mm f/1.4, Canon EF 35mm f/2 IS, or Canon EF 40mm f/2.8 STM. I don't have experience with the EF 35mm f/2 IS, but many people like it. I can tell you that the Sigma is da bomb. Most of the time I shoot with manual focus, so I can't comment on my copy's AF accuracy rate and I haven't yet gotten the Sigma Dock that allows you to modify the lens' AF firmware (an alternative to in-camera AF adjustment). The thing is sharp at f/1.4, and I like the bokeh. It is a handful of lens at 665 grams, which is why I picked up the 40mm (130 grams) when I saw a used copy locally and had a spare $125.00. The 40 mm gets substituted if I am carrying a LOT of weight and I am planning on using it only for daytme landscape at f/8 or so. I needn't add that the Canon 70-200 f/4 L IS is a wonderful lens, as is the Canon 100 f/2.8 macro (either version).
Have fun!
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Thank you Nancy! I will start to search for an opportunity to buy a second hand of the 40mm STM.
Any experience with the Tokina 16-28 2.8? any bad flares issue for landscapes shots?
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No experience. By the way, consider the Canon refurbished lens program. The lenses are warrantied and have been inspected. I have bought from Canon refurbished (they have a website) and many other people have been very happy with the refurbished lenses.
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Actually there is another way, which is to mount a fast CHEAP prime on a crop camera eg. 50/1.8.
Edmund
There is a cheap, effective, contemplative and fun way to increase image quality with very little investment that is called stitching. It doesn't apply to all types of images, but judging from your Flick stream, a good deal of your images would be stitchable probably those that would benefit most from higher resolutions. ;)
It will even increase the DR of the 650D by reducing the magnification required for a given print size.
Your 650D can easily top 25,000 US$ digital back single frames with good lenses such as your 100mm macro or 70-200 f4. ;)
Cheers,
Bernard
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actually the "differences" in Nikon's DR are mainly at the low ISO's. Higher brings them closer in absolute dB and often some Canon models outpace their counterparts. Depends on the model. Based on specs I'd give a long look to the unloved but very fast Df. YMMV
Capital - I'm using my friend's Canon 6D sometimes and I see a big difference (with my lenses) in the shots: color, DR, quailty in low light (I'm facing it when I'm shooting street photography afternoon or in shadow places and I need to bump my ISO higher then 800, the image is BAD).
The functionality of the 6D is much better and more natural from the current 650D. Better weather sealing - nice thing for the landscape photography.
So I will move to FF, and now I have the answer - 6D :)
BernardLanguillier - Can you give me a link to this method, I will be happy to learn about it (or it's just a regular stitching like panorama stitching?)
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Actually there is another way, which is to mount a fast CHEAP prime on a crop camera eg. 50/1.8.
Edmund,
Yes, a good prime will bring a 25%~ enhancement over an average zoom.
Stitching is more in the range of 200-500%. ;)
And yes, it is the same technique used to build panoramas, but used differently to increase resolution. Many times it can be performed handheld, just by snapping 4-6 images (2 rows or 3 images) at a longer zoom focal length. Instead of using your zoom at, say, 24mm, you zoom in to 50mm and stitch 6 images. To reduce the risk of something going wrong, you can always capture one image at 25mm anyway.
Cheers,
Bernard
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Thank you Nancy! I will start to search for an opportunity to buy a second hand of the 40mm STM.
Any experience with the Tokina 16-28 2.8? any bad flares issue for landscapes shots?
I've got the Tokina 16-28 and of all my lenses this has probably been the biggest disappointment. It's noticeably soft at 2.8 which isn't a big deal for landscapes I guess but I dunno, I just never seem happy with any of the shots taken with my Tokina.
Also, given you are doing this as a hobby I agree with what others have said in that it probably won't be worth it to swap to Nikon. I'm a Nikon shooter and have two D600's. Love the IQ and the DR but I honestly don't think it'd be worth taking the financial hit in changing.
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No experience. By the way, consider the Canon refurbished lens program. The lenses are warrantied and have been inspected. I have bought from Canon refurbished (they have a website) and many other people have been very happy with the refurbished lenses.
Unfortunately I don't have that option here in Israel :)
Edmund,
Yes, a good prime will bring a 25%~ enhancement over an average zoom.
Stitching is more in the range of 200-500%. ;)
And yes, it is the same technique used to build panoramas, but used differently to increase resolution. Many times it can be performed handheld, just by snapping 4-6 images (2 rows or 3 images) at a longer zoom focal length. Instead of using your zoom at, say, 24mm, you zoom in to 50mm and stitch 6 images. To reduce the risk of something going wrong, you can always capture one image at 25mm anyway.
Cheers,
Bernard
That can work on none moving subjects only.
I've got the Tokina 16-28 and of all my lenses this has probably been the biggest disappointment. It's noticeably soft at 2.8 which isn't a big deal for landscapes I guess but I dunno, I just never seem happy with any of the shots taken with my Tokina.
Also, given you are doing this as a hobby I agree with what others have said in that it probably won't be worth it to swap to Nikon. I'm a Nikon shooter and have two D600's. Love the IQ and the DR but I honestly don't think it'd be worth taking the financial hit in changing.
Thank you, I will try to find someone with that lens to check it first.
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That can work on none moving subjects only.
In fact it can work:
- on moving subjects that don't occupy more than a frame,
- on moving subjects that move slowly (clouds for example),
- on moving subjects of continuous nature, such as many cases of water flows.
Cheers,
Bernard
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Photography for me it's only an hobby, and I do care about image quality.
Mainly I'm shooting:
- Landscapes and nature (I'm not doing wildlife).
- Street photography.
- Macro, not extreme.
(You can check my flickr (https://www.flickr.com/photos/99706377@N05//)and see)
This say's image quality to me as opposed to say shooting speed.
Looking at DxOMark's Camera Sensor ratings, Nikon has 6 of the top 10 including the D610 (with 3 Sony's which supplies Nikon sensors and a MF Back). The 1st Canon is the $6,800 Canon 1Dx ties with the $500 Nikon D3300 at #31. The 6D is listed at #32. The Crop sensor Nikon D7100 comes in at #22.
Sensor performance isn't all there is to a camera or even image quality, but it is a big limiting factor. Sensor Ratings Comparison here:
http://www.dxomark.com/Cameras/Compare/Side-by-side/Nikon-D750-versus-Nikon-D610-versus-Canon-EOS-6D___975_915_836 (http://www.dxomark.com/Cameras/Compare/Side-by-side/Nikon-D750-versus-Nikon-D610-versus-Canon-EOS-6D___975_915_836)
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Bernard,
I don't think that replacing one dog by 6 cats is a straight swap :)
But then I'm not a cat-lover :)
Edmund
Edmund,
Yes, a good prime will bring a 25%~ enhancement over an average zoom.
Stitching is more in the range of 200-500%. ;)
And yes, it is the same technique used to build panoramas, but used differently to increase resolution. Many times it can be performed handheld, just by snapping 4-6 images (2 rows or 3 images) at a longer zoom focal length. Instead of using your zoom at, say, 24mm, you zoom in to 50mm and stitch 6 images. To reduce the risk of something going wrong, you can always capture one image at 25mm anyway.
Cheers,
Bernard
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Yes, a good prime will bring a 25%~ enhancement over an average zoom.
Is enhancement a technical term Bernard? Also what units is enhancement measured in? Beautys or would it be millihelens (https://en.wiktionary.org/wiki/millihelen)?
Which reminds me of one of my pets hates in lazy scriptwriting - 'Enhance' (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Vxq9yj2pVWk)
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Is enhancement a technical term Bernard? Also what units is enhancement measured in? Beautys or would it be millihelens (https://en.wiktionary.org/wiki/millihelen)?
Which reminds me of one of my pets hates in lazy scriptwriting - 'Enhance' (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Vxq9yj2pVWk)
You may want to check with Edmund, he is the one who suggested primes. My units are the same as his.
Cheers,
Bernard
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As opposed to relying strictly on DXO sensor stats (as suggested earlier)....
Look at the photos of the D610 v 6D at low ISO's. This (plus reliability and customer support) is where the rubber meets the road. Some prefer the character of the Nikon photos...some the Canon.
From what I read...the D610 may have a slight 'visible' advantage in DR and detail at low ISO's. But if you are familiar with Roger Cicala...at Lens Rentals (a good site with much testing info)....he acknowledged a slight advantage of the D610, but still purchased the 6D. See his commentary...Roger buys a camera...at the Lens Rentals site.
You might also compare the two cameras' photos at Imaging Resource...on their comparometer.
When viewing the two cameras' photos at 100 ISO on the Imaging Resource site....the two look even. One may have a (very) slight advantage in one area...and visa versa.
You might also look at the 2 cameras on the Amazon site...and read the camera user comments.
Good luck.
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Soon cameras like this (http://petapixel.com/2015/02/14/olympus-make-40mp-sensor-shift-photos-possible-handheld-shooting/) one will have the ability to shoot 40MP photos via built in stitching even for hand held street photography... so why not wait?
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. so why not wait?
Simply because by then you would be waiting for the rumoured 80MP model to come out 6 months later, then..........
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Soon cameras like this (http://petapixel.com/2015/02/14/olympus-make-40mp-sensor-shift-photos-possible-handheld-shooting/) one will have the ability to shoot 40MP photos via built in stitching even for hand held street photography... so why not wait?
This 16 mp camera gets the 40 mp resolution by shooting a series of photos...and stitching those photos together. It requires the camera to be stable through the series of photos.
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Mainly I'm shooting:
- Landscapes and nature (I'm not doing wildlife).
Nobody other than Bernard must shoot Nikon in this thread: a 2 stop advantage in DR at base ISO is a major, usable benefit for landscapes. I used to bracket, I no longer have to.
For landscapes it's all about the sensor (+glass of course): today it doesn't get any better than Exmor sensors like the ones in some of Nikon's current FF cameras, including the D610. Most people do not understand how to properly compare online images from different systems. Sites like DxOmark (http://www.dxomark.com/Cameras/Ratings/Landscape)or Bill Claff' (http://home.comcast.net/~NikonD70/Charts/PDR.htm#D750,EOS%206D)s do all the hard work for us and make things simpler: a is better than b for this purpose. Believe them and you'll be happy.
I also agree that if you can afford the switch to FF the D750 is probably the best all around full frame camera out there today. The 6D is pretty good, but as far as photographing landscapes is concerned it's locked into sensor technology that is almost a decade old. A lifetime in this day and age.
Jack
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Hi,
I know that many people asked this question already and there are a lot of YT videos on it, but my question is more specific.
I want to move from crop to FF and I don't know if I do need to switch from Canon to Nikon. Because moving from crop to FF it's a big step from me that's why I'm thinking on the option to switch (if I had FF Canon DSLR already wouldn't open such topic at all).
Photography for me it's only an hobby, and I do care about image quality.
Mainly I'm shooting:
- Landscapes and nature (I'm not doing wildlife).
- Street photography.
- Macro, not extreme.
(You can check my flickr (https://www.flickr.com/photos/99706377@N05//)and see)
My current gear is:
- Canon 650D
- Canon 70-200 f4 IS
- Canon 100m 2.8 macro
- Tokina 11-16 ATX 2.8 II
- Canon 18-66 kit lens.
- YNG flash for canon.
For what I'm shooting which DSLR will give me the best for what I'm doing? or maybe there is no a big difference.
I know that the 6D is better in low light, and of course I can use it without changing my lenses. What I don't like about the 6D it's feels like Canon removed some 'pro' DSLR features (like focus sys, dual slot) from it.
The D610 got a better AF system and a sensor with more dynamic range (good for landscapes, right?).
The problem moving to Nikon is that I need to sell all my gear.
So do you think that the switch is the right thing to do, there will be a big difference for my type of photography?
I do want to buy with the new DSLR another lens - Sigma 35 1.4 and in DXoMark I saw that it's one of the best lenses for the 6D.
If you are willing and able to switch, now would be the time. Canon has now given two big signals that they are still behind in the Senosr Subsystem area: The 7DmkII and the announced 5Ds.
Either camera would be a good camera. I just purchased a D810 and it is fantastic. Probably out of your price range, but like Bernard, I would recommend looking at the D750.
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Try this. Rent the D610 and the 6D....or the D750 and the 5D3. Use a good comparable lens on both (or the same good 3rd party lens)....and decide for yourself. It will cost you less than $200.
Your opinion should be more important ....than any of ours on this site.
Just a hunch, you may find the differences to be fairly small.
Good luck.
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If you are willing and able to switch, now would be the time. Canon has now given two big signals that they are still behind in the Senosr Subsystem area: The 7DmkII and the announced 5Ds.
Regards the 7Dii it all depends on what your main area of photography is
http://www.clarkvision.com/reviews/evaluation-canon-7dii/index.html
Blanket statements like 'the D800 is a better camera without saying what you use it for is meaningless.
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Regards the 7Dii it all depends on what your main area of photography is
http://www.clarkvision.com/reviews/evaluation-canon-7dii/index.html
Blanket statements like 'the D800 is a better camera without saying what you use it for is meaningless.
I never said that the D800 is a better camera than the 7DmkII. I said the 7DmkII was a sign [that Canon was unwilling or unable to execute a better sensor subsystem at the current time] and therefore it would be a good time to switch if he was so inclined. The 7DmkII is by far the best low light, crop sensor action camera on the market. Nikon has nothing to compete in that niche which is inexcusable (former D300 shooter here). But the original poster is looking at Full Frame.
What I will say, is that the D810, in my opinion, is the best general purpose DSLR on the market. (The D750 has some attributes that elevate it above the D810 as a general purpose camera, but shooting in crop modes leave you with very little image to work with.) The D810 sets the standard on the landscape side for resolution, DR and low noise shadows at the current time and is fast enough for most action use, especially shooting in 1.2x or 1.5x crop mode. I shoot sports with the D810 regularly and find it not only faster than the D7100, but more than sufficient for most sports and action needs. It certainly would not be the go to camera for super high speed action where you really need 8-12fps though. But those instances are exceedingly rare!
I keep going back to this John Shaw quote (http://www.johnshawphoto.com/nikon-d800-action/) on the D800 (much slower operation than the D810 in every way): “Can the Nikon D800 be used for wildlife photography?” Well, why not? Here are two full frame images taken last week during a short stop I made at Bosque del Apache. Both images: D800E, Nikon 600mm, ISO400, early morning light. FYI, I don’t have the extra battery pack for the camera so the motor drive rate is 4 frames/second. Anyone else remember when 4 frames/second would have been considered pretty amazing? Remember winding film with your thumb?"
(http://www.johnshawphoto.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/01/140110_D8H_7402-2.jpg)
(http://)
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Roger Cicala likely also chose the Canon because he has very intimate knowledge of Canon Service - he started his lens / camera rental business with mostly Canon stock, and added Nikon stock and other stock gradually. He started out relying a lot on Canon Service, and has brought more and more repairs in house now that he has gained more experience and hired some camera repair people. I suspect that when he does need Canon Service to fix something, he gets the very best service possible because he is a major lens buyer (equivalent of CPN 100,000+ points?). Roger as owner has had access to any unrented lens in the Canon lens lineup. I think that he has had less than stellar service from Nikon. These are good reasons for him to buy Canon.
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You can read Roger Cicala's remarks about service from the two companies at http://www.lensrentals.com/blog/2013/02/roger-buys-a-camera-system-finally (http://www.lensrentals.com/blog/2013/02/roger-buys-a-camera-system-finally). The gist of it is that Nikon takes 3 times as long at twice the cost.
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I hear this buzz that the D610's DR exceeds that of the 6D. Is that coming from DXO?
Imaging Resource and CameraLabs shows the 6D have a 1/2 stop lead over the D610 in JPEG...and the two are even in RAW.
Folks need to compare the photo outcomes...and not the stats.
In fact both resources also feel the two camera's sensors are near even....when comparing outcomes.
Cheers!!
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I hear this buzz that the D610's DR exceeds that of the 6D. Is that coming from DXO?
Imaging Resource and CameraLabs shows the 6D have a 1/2 stop lead over the D610 in JPEG...and the two are even in RAW.
Folks need to compare the photo outcomes...and not the stats.
In fact both resources also feel the two camera's sensors are near even....when comparing outcomes.
The gap in DR is very real, affects significantly many real world applications such as landscape, architecture,... and has been proven countless times.
Cheers,
Bernard
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You are not a pro (me too). Do you make really large prints? If not the logic for the change to FF is not very strong. As has been suggested, stitching and the use of fast prime lenses will open new dimensions for your work. Get and use a really good tripod and ball head to improve your image quality. There is no excuse for going to full frame other than the hope that it will make you a better photographer. It won't. That is strictly in your hands and your studious approach to making images. There are conditions where better dynamic range and high ISO performance can make a shot but for most of us this pretty rare and something that often can be mitigated by good technique. Can you make natural-looking HDR images? that would help. Do you focus stack? Another important tool where arguably a crop camera has an advantage.
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You are not a pro (me too). Do you make really large prints? If not the logic for the change to FF is not very strong. As has been suggested, stitching and the use of fast prime lenses will open new dimensions for your work. Get and use a really good tripod and ball head to improve your image quality. There is no excuse for going to full frame other than the hope that it will make you a better photographer. It won't. That is strictly in your hands and your studious approach to making images. There are conditions where better dynamic range and high ISO performance can make a shot but for most of us this pretty rare and something that often can be mitigated by good technique. Can you make natural-looking HDR images? that would help. Do you focus stack? Another important tool where arguably a crop camera has an advantage.
Multi shot stitching, exposure compositing and focus stacking are very useful tools, but they are work arounds that 1) take time to execute, 2) take some additional equipment/software/training and 3) do not substitute well for moving subjects.
Below is a scaled down version of the 5 shot stitch that I did down and dirty yesterday at the Alabama Softball Game. Look at the blur on the pitcher to see the limitations. Oops hard to see. Added a detail of the pitcher.
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Multi shot stitching, exposure compositing and focus stacking are very useful tools, but they are work arounds that 1) take time to execute, 2) take some additional equipment/software/training and 3) do not substitute well for moving subjects.
Below is a scaled down version of the 5 shot stitch that I did down and dirty yesterday at the Alabama Softball Game. Look at the blur on the pitcher to see the limitations. Oops hard to see. Added a detail of the pitcher.
While not denying the limitations of stitching that you pointed out, I'd like to say two things:
1) You did a great job on that stitch.
2) You could eliminate the blur on the pitcher by masking all but one exposure in that region in the stitching software.
Jim
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Try this. Rent the D610 and the 6D....or the D750 and the 5D3. Use a good comparable lens on both (or the same good 3rd party lens)....and decide for yourself. It will cost you less than $200.
Your opinion should be more important ....than any of ours on this site.
Just a hunch, you may find the differences to be fairly small.
Good luck.
There is your answer. That is what I did when I bought my last couple of cameras.
Also, I would never make a decision like this based on some small difference in "image quality." Amateurs don't use their equipment every day. That means that getting used to handling characteristics is a big deal. Among other things, changing between these two brands will lead to a new camera with very different lens controls. I've been using Canons for almost 40 years now, and every time someone hands me a Nikon, I fumble around with which direction the focus rings turn (Or is it zoom? I can't remember which, which is my whole point). If I shot every day, I'm sure I'd get used to it pretty quickly. But since I don't, it would take me a long time to re-learn all of that. May or may not matter to you.
Then there's the issue of local support structure. Camera stores seem to be getting pretty scarce in my neck of the woods, so good phone and e-mail support when needed is critical. I dropped my 6D on a stone paver a few months back and damaged the mode dial. I set up a repair online, and had the camera back in a week. The lady across the street fought with the maker of her DSLR for weeks on something similar. Have you looked at the support options in your area?