Luminous Landscape Forum
Equipment & Techniques => Landscape & Nature Photography => Topic started by: Chris Calohan on October 25, 2014, 06:12:31 pm
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5:45 am
Just wish I could find a way to keep the jpeg compression from clogging up the blacks. Print version has great tonal separation between the two land masses.
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It looks pretty nice on screen. I bet it's stunning in a large print.
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Thanks, Eric.
The night before I made this shot I'd been perusing some contemporary Japanese printmakers when I ran across this artist, Tatsuro Sawada. The style intrigued me and I knew just the area where I could make an attempt to emulate his style of work. The first post in Landscapes came out poorly due to the blacks blocking up. This is partially the responsibility of the internet's failure to properly compress blacks and dark grays and partially my fault for not finding an editing solution, which I think I have now accomplished.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/221398468674?lpid=82 (http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/221398468674?lpid=82)
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The second is better.
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The second is better.
Much.
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I like what you have done with this on several levels. Can you gives us a hint about the difference in the two images? I have been trying to deal with the blocking up of the shadows during conversion to jpeg for the internet as well. Slobodan suggested that he increases exposure by about a stop and opens the shadows but I have been finding that to be a bit hit or miss.
Chuck
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I had to do several curve layer adjustments using a blend mode of screen on each section of land mass.. Of course there was some mask feathering and changes in opacity to taste. I only did this for the internet posting as the original prints nicely with a clearly defined separation between the two land masses. I did a similar curve layer adjustment to the water because the darker blues act just like blacks. Note** When I use a curves adjustment layer and change the blend mode to screen, I am essentially gaining one full stop of light. I rarely, if ever actually make any corrections to the curve itself. If you find somethign is too dark, you can do the smae process but change the blend mode to multiply and darken by one full stop. It is a clever editing mode I use often. The key is to feather way on up in numbers...like 190-250.
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Thanks Chris!