Luminous Landscape Forum
Equipment & Techniques => Mirrorless Cameras => Topic started by: Paul2660 on January 21, 2014, 10:05:52 am
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What is the interest on this site for the Fuji X-T1 camera. It does seem to be coming sooner than later, latest news Jan 28th announcement.
http://www.fujirumors.com/ (http://www.fujirumors.com/)
Pricing seems to be around $1,300 for body only and $1,800 with new 18-135 lens.
For me if the AF is as good as either the X-E1 or E2, it's more than likely going to be added to the list. Love the fact that it should have a tiltable screen finally. Also prefer the DSLR look and feel. EVF is also supposedly going to have improvements. What a great compliment to their already excellent line of both cameras and lenses.
Paul Caldwell
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I will just add that this is more that a rumor; there is an official "teaser" website http://fujifilm-x.com/teaser140128/en/
By the way, I tend to agree that for cameras with an EVF, I actually like hump and shoulders ("mock-SLR") style as much as the flat-topped ("mock-rangefinder") alternative. Some people mistakenly think that the hump approach increase height by the height of the EVF, but in fact in either case the EVF sits immediately above the rear screen, so the hump style only need to be higher by the few mm of the hot-shoe atop the hump. Meanwhile, the rest of the body to either side of the hump is lower than with the flat-top designs, which are as high as the EVF across the whole width of the body.
But that is just my taste; I have no dispute with people who prefer flat-tops.
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I will wait and see what it really offers. I want the ability to autobracket more than the +/-1 stop that the cameras currently have via firmware, the pics show a +/-3 stops compensation but the firmware is still limited in current models. Also the ability to use an electronic release, I wish my xp1 had that, the manual plunger is ok and kind of a nostalgic novelty but for real use I much prefer an electronic release. I enjoy my xp1 and it really has me desiring new camera bodies less and less, Fuji keeps churning out new lenses that are great optically, so basically I am a happy camper except for the usability points mentioned above. Nice that the firmware is continuing to be upgraded and that seems to be their direction as well for the future. Keep them usable and updated.
Alan
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I thought the XP1 took both the Mini USB remote like the X-E1 had but I have never shot one. If they left no electronic remote capability on the Xp1 that is surprising.
They changed it to the Micro USB on the X-E2. I found a couple of port converters made in China and tried them on my intervalometer for my X-E1 which uses the Mini port. No go. Then I read that on the X-E2 the mini port was not programed for anything more than the single button release Fuji makes. However you can easily get a intervalometer to work in the microphone port. I have the "rainbow" brand and it works perfectly in the X-E2.
I am also wondering what the port setup will be on the X-T1, micro more than likely but I am also sure it will have a microphone port.
It was amazing just how many remote protocols that Fuji programed into the X-E2 (via mircrophone jack). Again not a bad trade off and forward thinking by them.
Paul
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No the Xp1 has no remote capability other than the mechanical release on the shutter button. So I am hoping that they are going to fix that in the XT1, but we shall see. I will probably rent it first to try it and see how it feels and handles. Kind of refreshing not to have a large gear lust... ;D although once it is really available that may change. I don't expect it to be available until spring or summer at least, given their past releases.
Alan
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This is Fuji´s attempt to jump into the retro SLR bandwagon trend, which seems to be "hot" at the moment. As na aside, I find it funny that people:
1. Dump their SLR to buy into mirrorless;
2. Then buy a mirrorless that looks like an old SLR...
But then, this is just to compete with the Sony A7 and Nikon Df. Personally, I prefer the rangefinder form of the XPro and XE series. If I want a SLR style camera, I get na SLR. In fact, I did that, got an EOS 6D and 50 1.4 lens, not really that big...
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2. Then buy a mirrorless that looks like an old SLR...
With the viewfinder at the SLR position it is possible to use bigger and thus sharper EVF inside it, and there is also more space for bigger LCD screen on the back. Also having the viewfinder lined up with the lens (for horizontal = most shooting) is not a bad thing either.
So I would not bash them for this design too much. I might buy it if the viewfinder is good enough = not much lag. I have the X-Pro1 and X100s already and they crank out (technically) beautiful files.
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In fact, I did that, got an EOS 6D and 50 1.4 lens, not really that big...
By itself, it's not that big, though next to an XE2 and the 35/1.4 it's noticeably larger. Adding a couple of extra lenses makes a substantial difference in the size and weight of the overall kit. These days I take my Canons out only when I need some specific feature.
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I don't feel its as much as with competing with Sony as just adding another great option to users of this excellent camera system. Fuji has had several DSLR style bodies using their unique sensors.
Right now Sony has the lock on large MP mirrorless. If Fuji was to produce a full frame they would also need a new set of lenses to take advantage of the size if the sensor as all current X lenses would vignette just like the Sony E lenses do on the A7 family.
I for one would love to see a full frame x-trans sensor at around 24Mp
Paul Caldwell
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By itself, it's not that big, though next to an XE2 and the 35/1.4 it's noticeably larger. Adding a couple of extra lenses makes a substantial difference in the size and weight of the overall kit. These days I take my Canons out only when I need some specific feature.
+1. I recently traveled with the X-Pro1 and 3 prime lenses (14, 23 and 35). Still very light.
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1. Dump their SLR to buy into mirrorless;
2. Then buy a mirrorless that looks like an old SLR...
did it ever happen to you to notice that for many (most) switch from dSLR to dSLM is not because they don't like dSLR shape (= grip, viewfinder in the middle) or modern dSLR controls (not retrodials) ? that there are other values like CDAF, EVF, size/weight of the combo (camera/lens) ?
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On the Fuji Rumors site there are some more leaked pics, this time including the battery grip. It will be interesting to see how it performs in the real world and what features have improved. I will probably rent one to see how it compares.
Alan
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I don't feel its as much as with competing with Sony as just adding another great option to users of this excellent camera system. Fuji has had several DSLR style bodies using their unique sensors.
I agree. They are building the X system with another option that will meet some photographers' needs better. It looks like a beautiful design!
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did it ever happen to you to notice that for many (most) switch from dSLR to dSLM is not because they don't like dSLR shape (= grip, viewfinder in the middle) or modern dSLR controls (not retrodials) ? that there are other values like CDAF, EVF, size/weight of the combo (camera/lens) ?
Yes, I actually happen to notice... the "values" you mention are not decisive for the XT1, or for the other retro-vintage DSLR styled mirrorless cameras, that are a fashion these days. In fact, most of the praise cameras like the Nikon Df, Sony A7, and now Fuji XT1 are getting, is not because of the EVF, CDAF, size/weight, but because they have 2old stly" buttons and dials and a hump in the middle where the OVF used to be. They appeal to the nostalgics amongst us, they appeal because they have the tactile feel of the manual controls.
I actually happen to notice, and indeed bought the XE1 and XPro1, because they applied the digital era advantages on a template that is not a DSLR copy, and because they are significantly smaller than a DSLR. Once you bring the hump back, you lose most of the size advantage, and the OVF of a DSLR is still miles better than the best EVF.
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Once you bring the hump back, you lose most of the size advantage, and the OVF of a DSLR is still miles better than the best EVF.
You will if the two bodies are the same size, but we are yet to see...
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Once you bring the hump back, you lose most of the size advantage ...
Are you forgetting that the "flat-top" or "pseudo-rangefinder" EVF cameras also have the EVF above the rear screen, just moved to the left? So the top of the EVF is as far above the bottom of the camera in either design. The main difference is that the flat-top designs usually then have this extra height across the whole width of the camera, whereas the "hump" or "pseudo-SLR" designs are actually lower than the flat-tops at their shoulders.
The hump style only needs to be higher by the few mm atop the EVF for the hot shoe.
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and the OVF of a DSLR is still miles better than the best EVF.
on the contrary, best EVF are miles ahead of OVF... ever tried to focus manually when it's dark using corner of a frame w/o focus and recompose ? good luck nailing that with OVF whereas EVF can boost brightness and zoom your focus area of choice... and I am not even going into Olympus style blinkies that can properly show clipping in raw channels in your EVF in real time.
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I actually happen to notice, and indeed bought the XE1 and XPro1, because they applied the digital era advantages on a template that is not a DSLR copy
and now you are going to buy X-T1 because it applies mirrorless advantages in dSLR shape... with proven dSLM design = grip and EVF in the middle... and dedicated dials are the only one real retro bone for fashion hungry ;)
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In my use of EVF, Sony NEX-7, Sony A99, Fuji X-E2, and E1, the only place they may let you down is in panning as some are slower than others to catch up with movement, and low light manual focus. The Sony Nex-7 was at times hard to focus with the EVF in low light, but for me the LCD with peaking was still excellent. Fuji's X-E1's EVF was a bit slow with either movement or low light, but the X-E2 seems to have improved on this. In low light the EVF will always have more issues with noise in my experience.
I feel that Fuji's big mistake on the X-E1 and X-E2 was to not figure in a way to have an eye cup around the EVF finder window. Sunlight coming in over your shoulder can make using the Fuji EVF tricky at times. Sony has always had a good solution here. I noticed that on the pre-shots of the X-T1 Fuji seems to have placed an eye cup around the EVF finder window.
The trade off is the fact that you can zoom in with peaking which I have gotten very fond of. Nikon and Canon can come close with Live View on their LCD"s but many times in the outdoors, the ambient light makes focus from the LCD hard to do.
My for work, I still miss the tiltable LCD, and if Fuji puts that on the X-T1 that will be a big plus.
Paul
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on the contrary, best EVF are miles ahead of OVF... ever tried to focus manually when it's dark using corner of a frame w/o focus and recompose ? good luck nailing that with OVF whereas EVF can boost brightness and zoom your focus area of choice... and I am not even going into Olympus style blinkies that can properly show clipping in raw channels in your EVF in real time.
You know DSLRs have live view and zooming? All I know is that the OVF of my 6D is miles better than EVFs. But to each its own.
And no, I am not going to buy the XT1, I prefer the "SLR template" from a true DSLR. As I said, the XE1 and XPro are very good for a "rangefinder template", with good manual controls, easy to use. But the 6D with a 50mm lens, it's a gem of a full frame.
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Live view on your 6D can be challenging in bright light and zooming in to 100% can be tedious with the combination of keystrokes required. Comparing it other Canon cameras. The ability to have all of info you need at eye level plus magnification is great. In low light the Canon wins hands down as most EVFs seem to drag and show a lot more noise. Canon has low light live down pat.
Paul Caldwell
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You know DSLRs have live view and zooming? All I know is that the OVF of my 6D is miles better than EVFs. But to each its own.
And no, I am not going to buy the XT1, I prefer the "SLR template" from a true DSLR. As I said, the XE1 and XPro are very good for a "rangefinder template", with good manual controls, easy to use. But the 6D with a 50mm lens, it's a gem of a full frame.
Yes, I know that. The 5DII has a rear LCD, but I had to initiate live view which was impossible to see in sunlight, required more button presses to see a magnified image, and had zero focus aids like peaking. On the X-E2 the EVF is easily readable in sunlight, can be set to automatically magnify the focus area when the focus ring is touched, and has focus peaking available. That, and the stellar IQ and engaging rangefinder form convinced me to sell my Canon gear.
Fuji is presenting some very nice options lately.
Sal
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Looks impressive …
http://www.fujirumors.com/first-look-fujifilm-x-t1/
http://www.dpreview.com/previews/fujifilm-x-t1
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All of this shots have been made with the XT1 + 56f1.2, either wide open or at f1.4.
The series end till the guy in B&W. Enjoy (especially the tracking ;)
http://www.flickr.com/photos/25805910@N05/with/12121824294/
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You can preorder it now on BH photo's site. Came in at 1300 US. Looks nice not sure why they went with a rough finish. New features of EVF look very good.
Paul Caldwell
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Adorama and Amazon also have pre-orders. Looks really nice, but wish they would enhance the AEB, I want more than +/- 1 stop but the built intervalometer is nice too. Also being able to review images while they are being written to the card, a bigger buffer, all very nice.
Alan
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But the 6D with a 50mm lens, it's a gem of a full frame.
the real gem is 1Dx... 6D is a plug for those who want FF, but can't afford the gem... but granted 6D has a better sensor than 5DmkIII, for now
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In low light the Canon wins hands down as most EVFs seem to drag and show a lot more noise.
that's not about EVF vs OVF - it is about sensor feeding the LV... OVF in low light is simply useless.
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I pre-ordered the X-T1 today.
I have an X-Pro1 and I believe the X-T1 contains enough improvements over the X-Pro1 to justify the purchase.
I personally hardly use the OVF so the absence of the OVF is not an issue for me. I will keep the X-pro1 as a backup body though.
Joris.
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I am tempted, really tempted. My only issues is that I have a love hate relationship with X-Trans. Some images looks great, some not so much, mostly when I pixel peep though.
Other than that looks to have most of the things I wanted in this camera. A touchscreen would have been nice for a quick touch to focus anywhere in the frame.
Focus should be better than in my X-E1 where it's adequate but not great, mostly on moving subjects but also on low light/ low contrast situations.
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I had a look at Rico's review:
http://www.fujirumors.com/first-look-fujifilm-x-t1/
and what he listed as the major improvements over the X-E2:
- Fast, almost delay-free EVF with a constant 54 fps refresh rate even in low light
- Large viewfinder with new, clutter-free user interface
- Tiltable LCD display and flash sync terminal
- Dust, water and freeze resistant (down to -10˚C)
- DSLR-style shooting: Viewfinder is located on the optical axis
- Great for left-eyed shooters: no display smearing, right eye can remain open and scan the surroundings of the scene
- UHS-II SD card support for ultra-fast performance
- Predictive tracking AF with speeds of up to 8 fps
- Wireless remote tethering with Android and iOS
None of these will make me take better pictures or are truly essential for me but I figured it was worth the upgrade anyway.
I have the 56mm f/1.2 on pre-order as well.
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I preordered one as well. I like to use an electronic release and I like to long exposure, less touching the camera the better when I am doing that, also timelapse would be a plus, so enough of an upgrade for me also. I also have the 10-24mm on pre-order. The 56mm could be nice but it is not something I would use a lot, so I am not in a rush to get one.
Alan
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the real gem is 1Dx... 6D is a plug for those who want FF, but can't afford the gem... but granted 6D has a better sensor than 5DmkIII, for now
I am sure the 1DX is a great camera, after all it sits, at the moment, at the top of the Canon DSLR line. However, for my purposes, it would be overkill, besides being too expensive. So yes, I am quite happy with the plug.
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the real gem is 1Dx... 6D is a plug for those who want FF, but can't afford the gem... but granted 6D has a better sensor than 5DmkIII, for now
Nope, from a sensor point of view...the real gem is the Sony sensors in the Nikon and Sony full frame cameras.
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Fuji, seems to have a good "system" methodology, and their xtrans sensor in my usage seems to have the ability to create images comparable to the Sony chip in DR abet not in resolution. Dream sensor would be xtrans at about 24MP. Probably not coming for a while and if full frame it would have the same issues with current X series lenses as the new Sony does.
To me the only issue is raw conversion support. Irident raw deveoloper seems to get the overall best from the raws but it's MAC only. LR with 5.3 seems much better on fine greens but still get a plasticky look on rocks.
Paul Caldwell
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Nope, from a sensor point of view...the real gem is the Sony sensors in the Nikon and Sony full frame cameras.
But presumably if one has a cupboard full of EOS lenses one would probably opt for the 1dx over the Sony or Nikon...... I even know a local photographer who has swapped his 5D3 and lenses for a Nikon D800 and while he loves the pictures, he hates the camera!
There are so many photographers comparing apples and oranges with cameras at the moment. Most of the better cameras these days whether Canon, Nikon, Sony or any of the CSC's are going to give image quality that will be far more dependant on the skill of the user than any deficiencies in the hardware.
I hanker after an EM-1, but realistically I know the image quality will not be much different from my three year-old GH2. The lenses are where it's at really.
Jim
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+1 on the importance of lenses.
One area that Fuji impressed me from the start, is the quality of the X lenses. I have to find any faults with any of the ones I have used:
14mm F.28
18-55mm
60mm Macro
55-200mm
23mm
All excellent lenses, only wish the 60mm has OIS.
Paul
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Fuji, seems to have a good "system" methodology, and their xtrans sensor in my usage seems to have the ability to create images comparable to the Sony chip in DR abet not in resolution. Dream sensor would be xtrans at about 24MP. Probably not coming for a while and if full frame it would have the same issues with current X series lenses as the new Sony does.
To me the only issue is raw conversion support. Irident raw deveoloper seems to get the overall best from the raws but it's MAC only. LR with 5.3 seems much better on fine greens but still get a plasticky look on rocks.
Paul Caldwell
Paul,
Capture One is excellent, and the other one that works rather well and can integrate well with Lightroom is Photoninja, very close to Irident, which makes sense since they both use DCRAW as the conversion engine. There is a rumor that Adobe will have a better version out soon, but that is only rumor. I really like the initial color from Capture One and the detail is much better that Adobe in my using it.
Alan
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Alan, I agree Capture One does a good job, however I still find areas where the finer details are mushy at times. Greens especially. Capture One's base profile IMO is a bit off the hue for blues but that's an easy fix with Capture One color controls. I also read where Adobe is working on a better solution for raw conversion. Hopefully they will pass it down to LR and not just CC as I am not a CC user. CS6 has all I need for now.
I tend to lead with Capture One, and only go to Irident when I find an issue where I can't get the look I want. The files pack a ton of details. When I use Irident, I only make the base conversion to tif, then go to LR to finish the look I want.
Both LR and Capture One have a much great tool set than Irident from what I have found.
Paul
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But presumably if one has a cupboard full of EOS lenses one would probably opt for the 1dx over the Sony or Nikon...... I even know a local photographer who has swapped his 5D3 and lenses for a Nikon D800 and while he loves the pictures, he hates the camera!
There are so many photographers comparing apples and oranges with cameras at the moment. Most of the better cameras these days whether Canon, Nikon, Sony or any of the CSC's are going to give image quality that will be far more dependant on the skill of the user than any deficiencies in the hardware.
I hanker after an EM-1, but realistically I know the image quality will not be much different from my three year-old GH2. The lenses are where it's at really.
Jim
Jim, it really depends on what you shoot. I shoot landscapes and I own a bunch of Canon mount lenses..but I sure am not tied to using a Canon body. I am very much looking into the A7R as it allows me to keep my Canon lenses and provides me with a better overall image than what I can get out of any Canon camera. Don't need the speed ( or frankly the cost ) of a 1DX and the 5D3 gives me nothing that my 5D2 doesn't already to for me.
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Paul,
Capture One is excellent, and the other one that works rather well and can integrate well with Lightroom is Photoninja, very close to Irident, which makes sense since they both use DCRAW as the conversion engine. There is a rumor that Adobe will have a better version out soon, but that is only rumor. I really like the initial color from Capture One and the detail is much better that Adobe in my using it.
Alan
I tried Capture One and while it made slightly more detailed files I didn't think it was a big difference (at least on the files I tried then).
Now I have many shots from around San Francisco and to my surprise I find much more plasticky look than before which is becoming annoying and makes me think long about X-T1. I am trying Noise Ninja also and it does make the files look "normal" detail wise, I will try the colors soon (can't try Capture One as the trial expired and I'm still not sure it makes sense paying the 100$, even if in the grand scheme it's not much anymore).
Supposedly there might be better Lightroom processing coming soon, particularly with the film simulations.
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Photo Ninja does a good job, but I get tired of having to commit on every level of adjustments. And I can't find a way to make a saturation adjust for the entire image, just the individual colors shown in the boxes.
Paul
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I tried the Photo Ninja my test shot for color: http://www.luminous-landscape.com/forum/index.php?topic=80713.msg651675#msg651675
It's worse (or as good if you are a glass full person) as all the others, meaning it just cannot deal with it. Detail is quite good though.
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... There is a rumor that Adobe will have a better version out soon, but that is only rumor.
Alan
Alan,
Do you have any more details on this? I'm a relatively new owner of an X-E1 and a longtime LR user, but I'm close to licensing my trial copy of Capture One since it does seem to do better with many of my images. But if a new LR with improved X-Trans processing is around the corner I might be wasting money and just adding more complexity to my workflow for no good reason. Any sense of when the new LR functionality would be coming out?
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Alan,
Do you have any more details on this? I'm a relatively new owner of an X-E1 and a longtime LR user, but I'm close to licensing my trial copy of Capture One since it does seem to do better with many of my images. But if a new LR with improved X-Trans processing is around the corner I might be wasting money and just adding more complexity to my workflow for no good reason. Any sense of when the new LR functionality would be coming out?
There's rumour that the next update of LR 5 will include support for Fuji’s Film Simulations. But I haven't heard that the processing will improve. That's not to say it won't either.
I still think Photo Ninja is top for raw processing, though I haven't tried Irident (and can't).
David
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Iridient has the best overall look and feel from the Fuji Files I have seen so far. Since I run a Macbook Pro 15" with bootcamp, I can run Iridient. They have a great feel for both the overall hue of a raw especially the blues and the details in the greens.
Photo Ninja does a good job, and would be my 2nd choice (as I still feel LR leaves a lot to be desired as it quickly gets too plastic looking certain parts of images) and Capture One still has a bit of trouble with the greens. Photo Ninja also can leave a strange over claritized (too much clarity) with the Fuji files much like I used to get with Bibble and my original S2 conversions.
By far the single biggest issue I see with LR conversion is areas where it's dark against light, like a brown oak leaf against a blue sky. The conversion seems to have a lot of trouble here and leaves what I find are strange artifacts.
For sharpening, I find that it's best to do just a bit in the raw conversion then move to Focus Fixer which does an excellent job on the Fuji converted tiff.
Paul
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Iridient has the best overall look and feel from the Fuji Files I have seen so far. Since I run a Macbook Pro 15" with bootcamp, I can run Iridient.
Iridient runs on OS X. ?? Or do you mean you run Windows-based photo software as well as native apps?
I agree re. Iridient's capability with Fuji X files. Funny enough, my two iOS RAW processors (dcraw-based, I assume) also do a real nice job. Maybe Adobe is suffering from a bit of NIH (Not Invented Here) syndrome.
-Dave-
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Alan,
Do you have any more details on this? I'm a relatively new owner of an X-E1 and a longtime LR user, but I'm close to licensing my trial copy of Capture One since it does seem to do better with many of my images. But if a new LR with improved X-Trans processing is around the corner I might be wasting money and just adding more complexity to my workflow for no good reason. Any sense of when the new LR functionality would be coming out?
I have a feeling that the processing will not change, it was only a rumor, the more substantiated part seems to be the addition of the color profiles. Adobe never states much in what they plan to release. There are good solutions, the more I use Capture One the more I like it, it can work well with LR doing the DAM and Capture one doing the conversions.
Alan
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Iridient runs on OS X. ?? Or do you mean you run Windows-based photo software as well as native apps?
I agree re. Iridient's capability with Fuji X files. Funny enough, my two iOS RAW processors (dcraw-based, I assume) also do a real nice job. Maybe Adobe is suffering from a bit of NIH (Not Invented Here) syndrome.
-Dave-
Dave
When I run Iridient I will boot up in the MAC side. I wish they would port to win however as they would gain more footprints.
Paul
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Iridient runs on OS X. ?? Or do you mean you run Windows-based photo software as well as native apps?
yes, it does ::), however OSX runs on PC in VmWare... and as Iridient does not use any graphic card acceleration (god bless that !) we have the following :
(http://imageshack.com/a/img30/3299/7xb8.jpg)
I run both Iridient and RPP on my PC/Win notebook with just 2.5Gb "RAM" virtual machine.
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dcraw-based
people tend to forget that in "raw converters" the data extraction from raws (that is what dcraw illustrates) is not all - color profiles, etc means a lot and that is not in dcraw (except simple matrices of course) and then there are other options like various demosaick algorithm tunings (more so for XTrans) and NR and shapening and so on... so this constant mantra about "dcraw based" raw conversion is quite tiresome (w/ all due respect to the great services that dcraw provides in terms of getting the data from raw files that found its way in many of them).... get RPP or Iridient or RT with some options available in both then try to reproduce the output (color/tone wise) in dcraw for once.
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so this constant mantra about "dcraw based" raw conversion is quite tiresome (w/ all due respect to the great services that dcraw provides in terms of getting the data from raw files that found its way in many of them).... get RPP or Iridient or RT with some options available in both then try to reproduce the output (color/tone wise) in dcraw for once.
Hey, I was just pointing out that the iOS RAW processors, PhotoRAW anyway, are likely built on a solid foundation. I have & use Iridient, and like it a lot.
-Dave-
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Hey, I was just pointing out that the iOS RAW processors, PhotoRAW anyway, are likely built on a solid foundation. I have & use Iridient, and like it a lot.
-Dave-
PhotoRaw's demosaicing algorithm is not from DCRaw (although some of it's raw file read code - e.g., decompressing NEF files, etc, is). PhotoRaw's code is actually a close cousin of AccuRaw's demosaicing algorithm.
BTW, the latest version of AccuRaw has X-T1 support already, and a new version of PhotoRaw with X-T1 support will be out in a week or two.
Sandy
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PhotoRaw's demosaicing algorithm is not from DCRaw (although some of its raw file read code - e.g., decompressing NEF files, etc, is). PhotoRaw's code is actually a close cousin of AccuRaw's demosaicing algorithm.
BTW, the latest version of AccuRaw has X-T1 support already, and a new version of PhotoRaw with X-T1 support will be out in a week or two.
Thanks for the info...good to know!
-Dave-
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Take a look at DSCF350 at DPR !
For an ISO6400 it's really A-ma-zing
Really, color, DR, details, incredible.
Have a Nice Day.
Thierry
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Take a look at DSCF350 at DPR !
For an ISO6400 it's really A-ma-zing
Really, color, DR, details, incredible.
Have a Nice Day.
Thierry
you might want to compare with the likes of Nikon D7000, Pentax K5 before A-ma-zing... with equal aperture and shutter speed (equality of "nominal" ISO does not matter, sensor saturation you select to be the best for you specific camera and raw converter combo).
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Of course, you are right, it's not THE panacea.
But don't forget the size, weight, and compactness of the X-T1.
Seems to be a very good compromise.
Have a Nice Day.
Thierry
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Interesting camera but a few observations.
Priced not too badly esp v the EM-1 in comparison.
Still puzzled by the limitation of ISO 6400 for raw capture, if the sensor is this good what's the problem? Bar some odd under the hood stuff going on
IMO the biggest problem for Fuji is their lack of flash system this is basically the reason a lot of people won't consider them right now. Just a basic TTL system with re badged Sunpak pretending to be the top end model, it just doesn't convince. Fuji really need to sort this out if they are serious about getting some users. Wireless and HSS are essential for many users.
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Still puzzled by the limitation of ISO 6400 for raw capture, if the sensor is this good what's the problem? Bar some odd under the hood stuff going on
With my X-E1 I just let the camera underexpose at 6400 if necessary and then bring up the exposure in post. Works fine. I'd guess even 6400 is a mathematical "ISO" anyway, so what's a little more math? As to why Fuji doesn't let you choose 12800 or even 25600 in RAW mode...not a clue.
-Dave-
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I would also love to see ISO 100 on the other end.
I have found that the Fuji is a bit more tricky on the highlights. But the exposure with the X-E2 being wysiwyg does make this easier.
I thought I saw where they allowed this on the X-e1 with a firmware update.
Paul C
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With my X-E1 I just let the camera underexpose at 6400 if necessary and then bring up the exposure in post. Works fine. I'd guess even 6400 is a mathematical "ISO" anyway, so what's a little more math? As to why Fuji doesn't let you choose 12800 or even 25600 in RAW mode...not a clue.
-Dave-
6400 is probably enough it just seems strange.
Looking at the raw files on the Xtrans sensor there is very little noise there even at high ISO levels.
Likely some under the hood pre processing going on there to raw files
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JPEGs at higher ISOs than 6400 are likely to be underexposed 6400 ISO frames anyway. If you want to shoot 12800 or 25600 ISO just shoot 6400 ISO RAW and underexpose one to two stops.
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I'm playing with the last pre-release of PhotoNinja and while the colors are not better the detail it's actually quite good compared to LR which needs to step up. For some images probably doesn't make a big difference especially if not printed large but that's no reason why it shouldn't be better.
First it's one where despite my best efforts I cannot get rid of the plasticky look in LR.
In the second it's where you can see the default highlight recovery from PhotoNinja. I could push it much more in LR but still unlikely to get close, I suspect the PN calculates and "makes up" the blown highlights from the surrounding information.
PS. these are 100% crops
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http://www.youtube.com/watch?list=UUqpOf_Nl5F4tjwlxOVS6h8A&v=nW8Cz_v3w1E
that 56 1.2 looks good ... fingers burning ...
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I'm playing with the last pre-release of PhotoNinja and while the colors are not better the detail it's actually quite good compared to LR which needs to step up.
those are not details but artecfacts from sharpening in PN... not bad for a visual impression (that is a part of their marketing strategy), but please do not call that "details"...
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those are not details but artecfacts from sharpening in PN... not bad for a visual impression (that is a part of their marketing strategy), but please do not call that "details"...
I'm not that skilled to figure it out what they are but they do look more realistic than LR in which the sample posted it's about as good as I can come up with, even if I oversharpen I cannot come up with anything close. Honestly I was less interested in detail but I wanted to make it look less watercolor.
And while I'm at it how do you know/ what makes you call those artifacts and not real detail?
I'm attaching also the ooc jpeg. If anyone is interested I can link the original raf to see if you can come up with better detail, or at least avoid the watercolor.
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There are a ton of positive reviews on line about the X-T1, I was kind of curious if DigitalRev was going to take a look, and it appears that Kai Wong has indeed looked at the camera and the review was surprisingly serious compared to many of his other reviews....
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8N1-obUC7Ms&feature=share&list=UUuw8B6Uv0cMWtV5vbNpeH_A
I enjoy some of the reviews that he has done in the past, most are pretty entertaining but useful.
Alan
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My X-T1 arrived today. Now the fun begins. I really like what I see so far. I'll be taking it to Vegas in 10 days and I'll put it through the grinder while there. Now I am waiting for the 10-24 and 58mm lenses.
More to come.
Kevin Raber
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Kevin,
Where did you order? B&H still lists beginning of March and Amazon February 24th.
Thanks, Joris.
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My X-T1 arrived today. Now the fun begins. I really like what I see so far. I'll be taking it to Vegas in 10 days and I'll put it through the grinder while there. Now I am waiting for the 10-24 and 58mm lenses.
More to come.
Kevin Raber
The question is:
Will it blend?
Have fun !
Cheers
~Chris
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I ordered and picked up my Fuji X-T1 yesterday at Roberts Cameras in Indianapolis (http://robertscamera.com/). They are local for me and are one of those hidden jewels. If you can't find it at one of the bigs guys then you may be surprised and find it here.
Kevin
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Kevin,
Very cool looking forward to your articles on the camera, I can hardly wait till mine arrives.
Alan
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I've been looking for a small high quality camera to complement my heftier kit [as have many others] for years and suddenly we're drowning in choice. It used to be a case of pick the least compromised small camera and now I'd like to have several of them as they are all so good, though sadly none are flawless as that would make the decision too easy. ;D
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I've been looking for a small high quality camera to complement my heftier kit [as have many others] for years and suddenly we're drowning in choice. It used to be a case of pick the least compromised small camera and now I'd like to have several of them as they are all so good, though sadly none are flawless as that would make the decision too easy. ;D
Get an X-T1 or X-E2 and wait for the flawless X-Pro 2 ...
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i started back in S3 days, then S5. then my eyesight drops like a stone, i could no longer do manual focus, can barely see clearly though the viewfinder. lost interest around 2009, but never sold the kit.
some time last year, i tried the X-pro 1 and XE1 when it came out. bought the XE1 since it was so small and light compared to traditional dslr. and the EVF allows me to see again, so started to take photos again.
but since xe1, fuji launched so many models. no doubt XT1 is the best of the bunch, but i must say, i dont think in terms of final output, XE1 is still going strong.
but the question is.... is it just my eyesight or fuji never quite re-capture the skin tone they were once famous for?
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Get an X-T1 or X-E2 and wait for the flawless X-Pro 2 ...
Or buy an X-E1 with the 18-55mm for $719 (Best Buy). Damned good value for money as well!
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.... is it just my eyesight or fuji never quite re-capture the skin tone they were once famous for?
Are you referring to film?
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Thanks for the suggestions, but the cameras have flaws that I consider problematic or are not suited to my needs, so hardly a must buy.
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Just waiting for Capture One is supporting X-T1...
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Jeremy, if you're waiting for flawless you'll be waiting a while. I don't think any of the cameras of any type I've ever used has been flawless, though my F3HP was close.
This week I did two commercial shoots with my Fujis and the results were exactly what the clients wanted and needed. None of the CSCs is perfect, but they can certainly deliver.
PS . I like the three heads in a drawer portrait on your site.
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Jeremy, if you're waiting for flawless you'll be waiting a while. I don't think any of the cameras of any type I've ever used has been flawless, though my F3HP was close.
This week I did two commercial shoots with my Fujis and the results were exactly what the clients wanted and needed. None of the CSCs is perfect, but they can certainly deliver.
PS . I like the three heads in a drawer portrait on your site.
I'm not waiting for flawless. I just used the term because if one was indeed flawless, then that would then make the choice from the sudden plethora of really good, small cameras a lot easier. All kit is flawed in some way, it's just whether the flaws make a tangible difference. Currently the X-T1 fashion styling takes away from its usability [though potentially fixable with firmware updates], so the OMD is still in the running.
Glad you like the Cabaret Verboten shot. ;D
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So the rumors were right and Adobe added the Fuji color profiles. From what I see on dpreview they are not quite right but better than the default.
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My X-T1 arrived today. I'd forgotten how small these cameras are without a lens attached.
I had a play with one a few weeks ago, but that gave no indication of how configurable this camera really is.
That's my evenings gone for a few days. :)
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My X-T1 arrived today. I'd forgotten how small these cameras are without a lens attached.
I had a play with one a few weeks ago, but that gave no indication of how configurable this camera really is.
That's my evenings gone for a few days. :)
Wot, no camp fires?
(Enjoy your new camera.)
;-)
Rob C
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So the rumors were right and Adobe added the Fuji color profiles. From what I see on dpreview they are not quite right but better than the default.
Is there a release candidate for LR that has the profiles also? Or just ACR for now. I can pull them down for CS6 but would prefer to stay in LR.
Thanks
Paul C.
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Just ACR at the moment....
Alan
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sorry not being clear. i was referring to the skin tone of S3 pro and S5 pro. the S3 was amazing, but as resolution race steamed ahead, s5 was the next stop. S5 skintone wasnt as good, but still has some of the best skin tone (especially for asian) even by today standard in my opinion.
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Received mine today from B&H. Had ordered on the first day that you could pre-order.
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Mine should be here on Friday from Adorama, looking forward to using it this weekend.
Alan
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Friday here also, from amazon. I ordered many days if not weeks after it was available for preorder.
Now if the software could catch up ...
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The new ACR RC and DNG Convertor RC can use it Armand. So you're in luck if you use Adobe software.
Link above/previous page.
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Also Armand, there are several other raw processors that support the X-t1 already, photoninja, Iridient, and some other dcraw based converters. I am really hoping Capture One does not drag their feet too much.
Alan
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The problem with both LR and Capture One is both are nearing a new release level and Capture One just updated to 7.2. LR may go to 5.4, but I checked and so far there is no release canditate for 5.4.
The dng support works for LR 5.3, but of course Capture One won't load a dng (never did understand that expect that Leica uses that format, which is short sighted IMO).
It might be possible to edit the exif on the X-T1 files to X-E2, but not sure if there aren't some things unique to the X-T1 that might get lost. I tried a few exif editors last night, but none I found (windows) would edit the title for X-T1 and or they didn't support the raf file type.
If anyone knows of a editor that will edit this info, please pass it on.
Paul C.
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The dng support works for LR 5.3, but of course Capture One won't load a dng (never did understand that expect that Leica uses that format, which is short sighted IMO).
It doesn't!? ??? That smacks of petty decision making, rather than anything else.
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I have licenses for both Iridient and SilkyPix (version 5).
Both already added support for the X-T1.
I agree on the short-sightedness of Phase One...
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The problem with both LR and Capture One is both are nearing a new release level and Capture One just updated to 7.2. LR may go to 5.4, but I checked and so far there is no release canditate for 5.4.
I would imagine there will be a Lightroom 5.4 and the reason for no RC is that they will just integrate the new ACR with the profiles. But that is pure speculation, either that are they are going to go to CC updates only, who knows.
Alan
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Hopefully Adobe will stick to the gameplan and still allow paid upgrades for LR if they don't it will force me to the CC. I don't need CC as CS6 does me just fine.
Paul C.
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One further note. I was able to edit the exif on a X-T1 file using exiftool, the windoes GUI version thanks to a tip from Graham Welland. Exiftool by itself is command line, and I am not that good with command line anymore. However there is an excellent GUI that you can download that uses exiftool and allows you to see the file in a excel like look.
All that has to be done is edit out the camera name, from X-T1 to X-E2. It's the same sensor. Capture One will now open the files and it looks great with the X-E2 profile. All the other info works fine, i.e. aperture, lens info, WB, etc.
This is only a work around, but I don't think Capture One will be getting around to another update from 7.2 for a while. Maybe wrong, but I base this on their usual timeline.
Paul C.
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All that has to be done is edit out the camera name, from X-T1 to X-E2. It's the same sensor. Capture One will now open the files and it looks great with the X-E2 profile. All the other info works fine, i.e. aperture, lens info, WB, etc.
Folks at Adobe have complained about this 'new' raw file nonsense as usually it isn't new at all, just an old one with a very slightly different label. Plus Adobe etc usually get the blame when their software doesn't work with a new camera that came out some time after their software was written, a camera that has deliberately broken compatibility at that.
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Do you guys remember when all same-format films fitted all same-format cameras?
Rob C
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Today I had a chance to hold the X-T1 in my hands in my favourite shop.
The EVF is bigger, yes, awesome, yes, and my nose got flattened at the LCD - Doh.
The tiltable LCD is useful - yup - good stuff.
And the grip is hugely (did I say hugely?) improved - actually if I only could have one feature from the X-T1 added to my X-E2 it would be the grip.
I like my X-E2 for being more discreet - The "Leica stealth" look ...
And I'll happily keep it and wait for an X-Pro2 when it ever comes out.
Don't get me wrong - the X-T1 surely is a terrific camera - I'd consider it if I were to buy into the system.
But I'm sure then I'd wish for a smaller camera, like The X-E2 ...
You can't always have everything ..
Cheers
~Chris
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Thanks Chris. Too bad they didn't get that huge viewfinder view in the X-E2 (from what I understand its not the physical LED unit that's different but the optics in the eyepiece.
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Thanks Chris. Too bad they didn't get that huge viewfinder view in the X-E2 (from what I understand its not the physical LED unit that's different but the optics in the eyepiece.
Honestly - I almost found it too big.
I had to press my eye very near to the viewfinder to actually see everything which squeezed my nose even flatter.
I don't miss anything concerning the EVF on my X-E2.
But the grip!
Man !
Curves !
Seriously - the new grip is a great design decision.
Cheers
~Chris
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Do you guys remember when all same-format films fitted all same-format cameras?
Rob C
Barely, but it was a nice feature!!
Paul C
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Got my X-T1 and I'm playing for the last 15 min or so. Few quick impressions:
- viewfinder is nice, really nice, and I didn't even try the different display options
- who the $%#@ thought the recessed buttons around the menu button is a good idea? I can do it with my bare hands but it will likely be a nightmare to do it with gloves, and in Michigan I do need gloves
- handling seems to be good, the grip works; a touch deeper would have been even better
- I have no idea how to use the focus split, but peaking is good with different colors
- coming from X-E1 can't say yet how is the focus, seems decent but not yet as my D90; further attention to this
- I miss the buttons on the left side of the screen
- the exposure compensation is not as stiff as some people say, I can move it without much drama with my thumb only (might be different with gloves)
- I'm reaching the point where I need to read the manual
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Got my X-T1 and I'm playing for the last 15 min or so. Few quick impressions:
- viewfinder is nice, really nice, and I didn't even try the different display options
- who the $%#@ thought the recessed buttons around the menu button is a good idea? I can do it with my bare hands but it will likely be a nightmare to do it with gloves, and in Michigan I do need gloves
- handling seems to be good, the grip works; a touch deeper would have been even better
- I have no idea how to use the focus split, but peaking is good with different colors
- coming from X-E1 can't say yet how is the focus, seems decent but not yet as my D90; further attention to this
- I miss the buttons on the left side of the screen
- the exposure compensation is not as stiff as some people say, I can move it without much drama with my thumb only (might be different with gloves)
- I'm reaching the point where I need to read the manual
+1 on the selector/function buttons. Way too small. They really screwed that up. Much much better on the X-Pro1.
The built-in diopter adjustment is very nice if you are in need of this. No more need to buy correction lenses as on the X-Pro1.
The EVF is as already mentioned huge. I like it a lot. I doubt whether I will use the tilt screen frequently though...
Definitely the best Fuji body up till now although a little bit at the cost of simplicity I sometimes feel.
Given that i hardly used the OVF on the X-Pro1 it might be tough for Fuji to come up with another body that makes me want to upgrade.
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Yes, I didn't think too much about the diopter, I just assumed that's how it should be. I did use it as I wear glasses.
The tilt screen will give some new life to my macro and wide angle lenses.
I do wish the grip was slightly deeper. With 55-200 is better than the X-E1 but still not optimal and considering the new zooms will be as big or bigger that's not going to get any better.
They need to work on the auto-ISO, to tie it to the focal length (2/FL-1/2FL). I got used to it and these days I mostly stay in Aperture mode with auto-ISO.
Overall is well put together with small touches, as one button to 100% zoom on the focused area. It's a really good setup for manual focus also.
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Few more things. Tried the autofocus, both single and continuous. Test: kids playing in the mall, not great lighting, so a difficult one.
Result: overrated autofocus performance.
Now granted I might not have used at its best but even so, it's not a fast focusing camera. Maybe if you have the subject a little farther with more time to guide your actions it will be better. On single shot I can't say it was better than my X-E1 either. Once I get to know it better it could become.
Contrary to what I've heard the 35 was many times faster than the 18-55 which could be that something was not right.
These I can deal with it. What did annoy me was focus accuracy. It was faster many times with face detection on but still was missing more often than expected. On the 35mm I could expect misses as I shot wide at 1.4, but it shouldn't be on the 18-55. If you really want to have a higher keeper rate for kids this doesn't seem to be the one. Also because the focus was subpar I had a distinct feeling of shutter lag,
I did not have the high performance ON at that time.
Even with these shortcomings (apparent at least) it's still a nice camera. The JPEGs are really good. No access to raw yet. It remains a good camera for what I got it: a lighter higher quality image producer that's easier to take with me, for random things or travel, which has a decent resistance to the elements.
As my Nikon is a D90 the Fuji is my best pixel level camera also, but any current Nikon I could buy (D7100, D610, D800) will be better at pixel level and if you print big, or probably for not missing the moment with kids.
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Armand,
I got mine on Friday, still playing around. I thought the focus was much faster, than the xp1 and xe1. Did you turn on "high performance" in the settings on the menu? It makes a difference. Try adjusting the size of the focus box, too big and it kept changing rapidly on me in continuous mode. We are having lots of rain today and hopefully not too much tomorrow I might give the 55-200 a try with some birds in flight.
Raw access is available with Silkypix on the disk that came with the camera. Also there is a release candidate of ACR, also anything that uses DCRAW will decode the raws, so that includes Photoninja, Iridient, and some other ones. You can also process them in camera, load them back up on a card.
My overall impression so far it was worth the upgrade for me, I like the new focusing modes and color on peaking, the split view is great. The larger EVF is very good. Larger lcd is nice. Feels good in my hands although I too think I need a little more in the grip area to be great. The ability to use a release is nice, and the built in intervalometer.
Better upgrade than I thought it might be.
Alan
more later....
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I did a first shoot yesterday.
The camera functioned well, only it will take a while to get used to the selector/function buttons.
They are just too small for me. The ones on the X-Pro1 are so much better.
Otherwise the camera is an improvement on the X-Pro1
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I got one two days ago, but have not played with it much.
Nice feel and the viewfinder is quite amazing for an electric one. Practically no lag at all! In dark conditions the darn thing looks better than an optical one. Old fashioned dials for ISO, shutter and F-stop (on the lens) feel good and straightforward to an old fart like me, who hates to learn and relearn new interfaces with every new gadget. Buttons are too small, maybe they look nicer on a small body, but they are not very ergonomic. D4 is still the King, but triple the size.
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I'm thinking of adding some rubber over the ridges of the 4 buttons to make them easier to push, at least with gloves. Somebody might come up with something like it, they already have something to keep the ISO lock pushed down.
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Found this one: http://sugru.com/great-for/photography , should work just fine.
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I have been in Las Vegas for the last few days. Chris and I have done a comparison video of the Olympus and the Fuji X-T1 and we will try to get that put together as soon as possible. I also think Michael and Nick have covered the X-T1 very well also. I have an X100, X1-Pro and now the X-T1. As a camera where you want to see everything and have a more tactile operation the X-T1 s a fine camera. I really like it. I have a number of lenses for it and anxiously await the 10-24 (maybe in the next week) and the 56mm. A few comments and probably nothing new here. It is very fast with auto focus. Image quality vs the Olympus in indistinguishable at least on screen. I intend to make some larger prints in the next week or so and evaluate them. Stay tuned. Here is something I would strongly suggest you look at if you are looking to purchase. Everyone is talking about how nice the EVF is and it is. However, during our comparison I was using both the Olympus and the Fuji to do identical shots. The difference in viewfinder brightness and quality is quite different. I thought I might have a bad camera so I asked Michael who has an X-T1 with him to do the same comparison and he came up with the same finding. So, I recommend that you take a look at this if you are looking at both systems.
I am kind of a camera addict. (Are there others of you out there?) So, I have both system and it is part on my mantra that I learned a long tome ago is to always have a camera with you. And, I like the X-T1 to make it pretty much my pick up and go camera for now. I love the Olympus, especially with the new pro lens 12-40mm, which is an incredible lens. Once Olympus rounds out the Pro Lens offering they will have a great system. What's nice about the Olympus is it will take old 4/3 system lenses as well as a number of other micro 4/3 lenses. I use some of my Lumix lenses on the OM1 particularly the 7-14mm and 100-300mm. The 100-300mm came in very handy the other day while photographing a herd of Big Horn Sheep in Zion National Park. It gives nearly a 600mm equivalent reach in a lens that you can hand hold and fits in the palm of your hand. Some very nice images and with the fast focus of the OM1 and the fast exposure rate I have some nice images. When I get a decent internet connection I'll post on Facebook and my blog. (hard to believe we are the the MGM Grand Hotel and can’t even get a 1 mps internet connection. Thank heavens for iPhone Hot Spot).
My thinking is with the Fuji and 10-24mm, 18-55mm and 55-200mm lens I have a system that I can carry with me in jacket or vest pockets. Makes me rethink my camera vest solutions too. I am trying out a new Eddie Bauer vest and it seems to work great for having a lighter vest with good sized pockets to carry lenses and batteries. Comes in 2 colors too.
We are at the WPPI Trade Show until Thursday and we have meetings with Fuji, Olympus and others. I'll try to get a small show report put together about what we have seen. We had an interesting meeting with Sigma yesterday on the upcoming DP Quattro and will have a video report on what we learned. I even got to hold the elusive HB Stellar and Lunar cameras. They do exist. Too rich for my wallet though.
So, back to the X-T1. It is a lot simpler to use than the EM-1 since it is more mechanical. The Olympus though sure has a lot of capabilities to customize things. This leads me to think that the Olympus will become my in field camera. Can't wait to see the other Pro lenses. What I miss about the Fuji is the histogram after the shot is taken. If anyone has been on one of my workshops they know I preach histogram. As far as I am concerned Fuji could take away the image after the shot and just give me a good histogram. For now I can live with this inconvenience and I consider serious oversight. But if I was purchasing just one system this omission might be a deal breaker for me. I will certainly discuss this today when I meet with the Fuji folks. Maybe we will see a firmware update with this feature added.
My poor Nikons and Phase One gear are spending a lot of time on the shelves of my gear closet these days. I’ll seriously have to reconsider my capture workflow.
That's all for now. I'll report back after meetings today.
Kevin Raber
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Kevin - keep the Fuji or Oly sell the rest and get an additional 4x5 view camera to really have fun.
Add a Zeiss Ikonta for the occasional posing on an event like Photokina ....
Then buy a drawing block and a pencil and take courses in drawing.
Cheers
~Chris
;D
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kevin,
Ask Fuji if they are going to expand the AEB exposure range, +/- 1 stop is not great, why not selectable ev range and choice of 3.5. or 7 shots as a suggestion. You shoot hdr, be nice to have a larger range. That is one of my niggles with the current firmware.
Have fun.
Alan
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I have a system that I can carry with me in jacket or vest pockets. Makes me rethink my camera vest solutions too. I am trying out a new Eddie Bauer vest ...
Keviiinnn !! I think you may need a new tailor - you're not coming to Milan Fashion Week dressed like that!
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Then buy a drawing block and a pencil and take courses in drawing.
Imagine the posts on here about that.
"No, a 2h pencil is more accurate than a 3b and what durometer is the eraser as you won't want too much flex in your rubber."
:)
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Imagine the posts on here about that.
"No, a 2h pencil is more accurate than a 3b and what durometer is the eraser as you won't want too much flex in your rubber."
:)
And in the end it will all boil down to who has the bigger pencil.
;D
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…... the biggest pencil that can draw the thinnest lines….to show the most detail…..and have the widest colour range...
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.... and draws equally well on dark paper as well as light....
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After reading Michael's notes today, I totally agree Fuji should consider a option to display the "detailed information" screen during the immediate image playback after capture. The Fuji is a bit tricky on highlights and when I first started to use it, I had some issues with not remembering to check back on capture images.
I have not used any of the Olympus cameras so I can only compare to the Sony EVF's I have used, to me the Fuji and Sony (A7 and Nex-7) are pretty close.
One thing I noted from day 1 with teh X-E1, is that you can't get a good magnification on playback unless you select raw +jpg. The playback image when viewed at 100% has strange look to it, a bit plasticy. But I believe this is from the jpg in camera which you are viewing.
Paul C.
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Imagine the posts on here about that.
"No, a 2h pencil is more accurate than a 3b and what durometer is the eraser as you won't want too much flex in your rubber."
:)
As usual, satire in no match for the "diverse realities" of the internet: http://www.pencilrevolution.com
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As usual, satire in no match for the "diverse realities" of the internet: http://www.pencilrevolution.com
My post although poking fun, was really describing the reality of what would be the case….as wonderfully illustrated by your link.
And it reads so very much like Michael's camera reports it's untrue [so to speak]. :D
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BJL did you watch the film on artisanal pencil sharpening (http://vimeo.com/60718161)? Highly recommended.
I think Poe's Law (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Poe's_law) is being observed here with the film and the website.
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I also received the 56mm today.
Good build quality, not a small lens, not very heavy though but IMO slightly harder to balance on the small X-T1 body than the other lenses I own (14, 23 and 35mm).
AF is good, pictures look sharp, so far I am pleased although I still need to try it out in other circumstances.
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Most everything about it sounds nice... except for the size. Having dumped the X-E1 in favor of the X-Pro1 due to how they handle in my hands I can't go with the smaller body size. The X-Pro1 is enough larger that it works well. When Fuji comes out with the X-Pro2 I'll be very interested.
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Testing the continuous autofocus. Overall decent, I need more time with it.
The test was both easy and hard.
The easy part: black dog on white snow, most were shot with a wide angle lens with a large DOF.
The hard part: this dog was fast, unpredictable at time, and coming fast right towards me.
Few sample shots, I would say the keeper rate was above 80%.
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Testing the continuous autofocus. Overall decent, I need more time with it.
The test was both easy and hard.
The easy part: black dog on white snow, most were shot with a wide angle lens with a large DOF.
The hard part: this dog was fast, unpredictable at time, and coming fast right towards me.
The easy part mostly solved the hard part though.
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Yes, that's what I had when I went outside as I wasn't planning on testing. Will try some today with 18-55.
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Dog looks like it's having a blast though. :)
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Dog looks like it's having a blast though. :)
Yes he did.
Tried again today with the 18-55.
Some disclaimers first: I am not experienced with AF-C. I rarely used it before, even on my D90 where I was disappointed with it. My usual is AF-S with using DOF and predictive future position. On my D90 I used to get more keepers this way even for faster moving targets, such as kids, compared to AF-C.
On the XT-1 you need to keep the target in the center which is not that easy particularly with my subject from today. If far away and coming straight at you or parallel it's ok, anything beyond that becomes a challenge.
IF you are able to keep the target in the center AND it starts with a good lock you might expect more than 50% success with good conditions. Anything else will be worse.
I don't know if it's the lens but it doesn't often change the focus fast enough when the object comes close.
A big surprise was that it wasn't that easy to get the first shot in focus. Many times I think it related to the busy background. If that didn't happen it rarely found the dog by the time it came next to me.
For away targets can disregards foreground distractions, when they are close it is fooled often.
At 6 frames/sec you can reach the buffer easily.
Black dog on whitish snow is not that easy as it is really difficult for the camera to focus on the head vs the tail or the legs, it's just on big fast moving erratic black spot.
I don't have experience with a good AF-C camera to know what I should realistically expect. I'm still thinking because of this to give a change to D7100 or its successor.
I attached few more of the test shots.
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Bill Claff posted Fuji's sensor data...
http://home.comcast.net/~NikonD70/Charts/PDR.htm#OM-D%20E-M5,X-E2
8)
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If those tests are accurate it seems there is minimal difference between Nikon D90, Fujifilm XE-2, Olympus E-M5 and Canon 5D III.
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If those tests are accurate it seems there is minimal difference between Nikon D90, Fujifilm XE-2, Olympus E-M5 and Canon 5D III.
I've used or own three of those 4 cameras and though they all perform, they are all quite different in use and look.
The bottom line, most digital cameras are good and as Michael says, probably better than the photographers that use them.
It's picking the right camera/lens for the project.
The d90, beautiful skin tones, but a limited prosumer camera, the em-5 beautiful film like file, won't tether, small camera and 1000 iso is very top and can get rough, Canon 5dIII most versitile of all the cameras, but the smoothest, most plastic of all the cameras mentioned.
IMO
BC
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I've used or own three of those 4 cameras and though they all perform, they are all quite different in use and look.
Camera models are like different film stocks in that each give a different feel.
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If those tests are accurate it seems there is minimal difference between Nikon D90, Fujifilm XE-2, Olympus E-M5 and Canon 5D III.
Indeed, except for the weird upturn at 3200 and 6400. However that takes the XE-2 above the "Ideal DX" at 6400, suggesting some weird in-camera processing or measurement error.
Aside: the E-M5 sits almost on the "ideal 4/3" curve, suggesting that its Sony(?) sensor is close to the fundamental limits of photon shot noise. If so, another sign that sensor progress is close to inevitable flat-lining, and so we should look elsewhere for improvements. (I propose looking mostly in front of and behind the camera: lenses and skills.)
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Do you guys remember when all same-format films fitted all same-format cameras?
Rob C
Yes, I do remember. But I remember as well that all same-format films didn't fit all the developers;-)
Harald
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Yes, I do remember. But I remember as well that all same-format films didn't fit all the developers;-)
Harald
But all of the ones that I used, of all formats, that produced black/white images, did: D76 1+1.
I suppose, too, from that perspective you could claim that they were as advanced as the Leica M Monocrom. For colour, one could utilise all the other Leicas...
;-)
Rob C
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Indeed, except for the weird upturn at 3200 and 6400.
strong NR in raw, as bclaff himself commented when he posted the test (@dpreview Fuji forum)
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As you know there is that light leak issue with the early X-T1s. Mine has it, although you do have to be determined to make it happen.
It's something I can deal with with some tape as I would use only the microUSB with the remote, the other 2 ports I can cover with some tape as I don't use them. It is said that it will decrease your resale value but realistically I never sell my stuff.
I did try to return it though because of some reports that the D-pad on the newer versions is improved, which is the thing that annoys me the most with X-T1 (the only major one if I think about it) as it makes it very difficult to use with gloves. The reports are not consistent and the improvement doesn't seem that dramatic as some people made it to be.
As it seems though is barely on stock anywhere, and Amazon wanted to refund it as they have no replacement. As I still like the camera and I want to use it this week for my trip to Chicago I cancelled my return.
Amazon is nice and wants to refund 30% without me asking so if you are in the same position it could be a pretty good incentive which should cover for any resale loss.
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...
I did try to return it though because of some reports that the D-pad on the newer versions is improved, which is the thing that annoys me the most with X-T1 (the only major one if I think about it) as it makes it very difficult to use with gloves. The reports are not consistent and the improvement doesn't seem that dramatic as some people made it to be.
...
I bought some gloves without tips for photography in cold weather (if not too extreme) at the christmas market last year - worked wonders ...
Cheers
~Chris
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I bought some gloves without tips for photography in cold weather (if not too extreme) at the christmas market last year - worked wonders ...
Cheers
~Chris
It has been quite freezing in Michigan this winter, -10 to -20 Celsius on a regular basis.
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Fuji will fix the light leak with a fast turn around so I see no reason not to get it fixed. Mine has it, I contacted Fuji they are sending me the FedEx shipping labels and when I get I get them I will send it in, they are saying a less than 1 week turn time. Some people are putting little stick on pads to raise the feel of the buttons. Myself I find I am getting used to them and can deal with that aspect of it.
Alan
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The right one is the most difficult one to press as the sticky rubber from the grip is at the same height and little space between them.
I'll be in Chicago these days and it will get a more intense use. I already have some Sugru waiting in the fridge, might be a better option then the tape.
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It worked mostly well.
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With the new LR release of color profiles for Fuji I can say Finally!! almost ...
I posted earlier how bad the LR manages some colors in the red-magenta-violet area, here is the original JPEG vs the Adobe Standard.
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And here is the JPEG vs PROVIA which is almost identical and truer to what I saw. Also few other renderings.
So Finally!! Why almost? Detail is still not the best. PhotoNinja, Iridient and probably Capture One do a better job.
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The trick I have found with LR is to do minimum sharpening in LR and sharpen with Focus Magic or Topaz in focus.
Paul
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Interesting: http://petebridgwood.com.gridhosted.co.uk/wp/2014/10/x-trans-sharpening/
I'm going to try this to see how real it is.
I do sometimes sharpen in Nik but most of times only if the file trips to Photoshop for other Nik filters.
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Fuji will fix the light leak with a fast turn around so I see no reason not to get it fixed. Mine has it, I contacted Fuji they are sending me the FedEx shipping labels and when I get I get them I will send it in, they are saying a less than 1 week turn time. Some people are putting little stick on pads to raise the feel of the buttons. Myself I find I am getting used to them and can deal with that aspect of it.
Alan
I am sending mine in after the fall color season is over for the light leak also. One note, the later cameras have different buttons, that don't have the recessed feel, and are more like the ones on the X-E1 etc. In Japan, it seems that Fuji is replacing the early 4 way set with the later version. This was reported on Fuji Rumors with before and after pics. No charge. I am going to ask Fuji USA, if they will consider that on my X-T1 when I send it in for the light leak fix.
Paul
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I am sending mine in after the fall color season is over for the light leak also. One note, the later cameras have different buttons, that don't have the recessed feel, and are more like the ones on the X-E1 etc. In Japan, it seems that Fuji is replacing the early 4 way set with the later version. This was reported on Fuji Rumors with before and after pics. No charge. I am going to ask Fuji USA, if they will consider that on my X-T1 when I send it in for the light leak fix.
Paul
Good to know I'm not the only one who did not send it yet. I'm not sure how long it would take, I don't want to be without it for too long, even if my X-E1 works just fine and my old D90 (and even older D50) are around ready, or more like begging, to be picked up.
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I think I read somewhere that Fuji Japan is offering the button upgrade for a price and not sure if Fuji USA is setup for that. I don't think they feel it was a "fix" but more an option. Be interesting to see what happens.
Alan
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Alan.
You are right it was a fix at a cost. I went back and re-read the Fuju site. I am going to ask Fuji when I send it my XT-1 if such a upgrade to current spec is available in the US.
Paul
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It seems that DxO will test the 100S, for whatever it's worth.
I feel some people will be disappointed as it's unlikely the top APSC sensor on the market.
The better part is that they might test some other lenses.
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"It seems that DxO will test the 100S, for whatever it's worth.
I feel some people will be disappointed as it's unlikely the top APSC sensor on the market.
The better part is that they might test some other lenses."
Based on Bill Claff's data, my guess is some people will be surprised at how good it is
Time will tell.
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Lightroom is horrible with Xtrans files, whatever the settings you use. In the other hand, Capture One pro 8 is just awesome and I do not regret having bought it. I was first stage Lightroom user but today, even Nefs files are better with C1.
You guys are messed up with fuji color profiles. Those color profiles are only usefull with in camera jpeg. You choose the style you need for jpeg only.
At raw level, those profiles do not apply. Instead of that you have a file with a lot of room, very clear, who have nothing in common with Velvia, astia and so on. The only setting who is close to the raw file is Pro Neg with -1 shadow and - 1 highlights.
With capture one pro 8 you can apply a routine at the importation, Pre-sharpening, applied on the raw file. That give you a very very good file to work with, far better than LR.
To be clear, files was almost a deal breaker for me with the fuji system... until I found out how to proper decipher the raws and C1 helped me a lot in this venture ;)
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That the raw gives you much more room it's obvious, even with the colors. My problem was (and you can see it posted here's) poor accuracy of magenta/ violet/red shades, and some of them I just couldn't get them closer to reality. With the Fuji profiles in LR that problem is solved without extensive work from me.
I'll try again CO, maybe they improved.
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When you work a raw file, none of the colors are really what you seen, even with a color checker.
For your violet example, I do not see a real problem. The photographer, on stage, must be soaked of the ambient mood, eyes and brain. Even with a top gear such H5D60, the stage in raw do not look exactly the same as you seen it.
This is why memory is very important to manipulate your raw in a good way ... if you have a good raw developer. After one week C1 school (I did one week lightroom school back in the days) I can say that C1pro8 is a far better tool than LR especially on sharpening and color renditions. Lightroom is just mainstream compared to C1.
So ok, every cameras are not equal at color level but raw give you the possibility to manipulate this.
For violet... try nikon :D With D700 violet are blue ;)
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1. Dump their SLR to buy into mirrorless;
2. Then buy a mirrorless that looks like an old SLR...
Absolutely agree, a mirrorles should look as a rangefinder.
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Absolutely agree, a mirrorles should look as a rangefinder.
Most practical design is best. Something like Fujifilm X-T1 is practical, because the viewfinder is aligned with the lens in the most used framing, horizontal. Faux prism box holds larger than usual EVF screen. A faux rangefinder design places the viewfinder in the corner where it is not aligned with anything. Why would a fake rangefinder design be more natural than fake SLR? Form follows function, that is all.
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It seems the DxO testing is not going to happen after all
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Absolutely agree, a mirrorles should look as a rangefinder.
Why? A camera with an EVF but no OVF is neither an SLR nor a rangefinder, so the form should best follow its actual function, not necessarily mimicking either of those film camera designs. In particular, since the EVF requires just a single rectangular viewport (as with an SLR viewfinder) not a horizontally extended, two-windowed baseline (as with a rangefinder), there is no reason for the whole top of the camera to be as high as the VF; instead it might make sense for the "shoulder" to be lower to either side of the VF port, making room for control knobs and buttons on top without them rising above the height of the VF port.
It is a mistake to think that the "mock-SLR" styling forces the EVF to be any higher; instead the EVF can sit immediately above the rear screen and be no higher than the EFV in a flat-top "mock-rangefinder" styling, but with the regions to either side lower.
There is then the questions of where to put the EVF: central or to one side?
- Film SLRs must have the VF rather central; over the middle of the film gate;
- Digital SLRs must have the VF somewhat central; over the sensor, but with latitude to have the sensor somewhat off-center
- rangefinders probably must have the VF port at one edge, to allow for a long enough baseline;
- EVF cameras have no such constraints, so mimicking film camera designs is not a good basis for making this decision.
(I would like a mirror-less camera with an EVF hump at the left end and a long, lower shoulder to its right, but no camera maker seems to agree with me!)
P. S. I notice that I already said roughly the same thing very early in this long-lived thread, many months ago; sorry for the repetition. (At least I am consistent!)
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;
- Digital SLRs must have the VF somewhat central; over the sensor, but with latitude to have the sensor somewhat off-center
Not really, see the Olympus E-300. Anyway, I'm fossilized enough to want my camera to look like they did when they were all gears and stuff and not little computers, you know, real cameras. ;D
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Most practical design is best. Something like Fujifilm X-T1 is practical, because the viewfinder is aligned with the lens in the most used framing, horizontal. Faux prism box holds larger than usual EVF screen. A faux rangefinder design places the viewfinder in the corner where it is not aligned with anything. Why would a fake rangefinder design be more natural than fake SLR? Form follows function, that is all.
On of the features of mirrorless is that there should be many new ways to design a camera. There's no need to be restricted to DSLR or Rangefinder options. Perhaps we'll see someone really set us on our ears with a design that fits the use best, not adapters the technology best.
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Absolutely agree, a mirrorles should look as a rangefinder.
No, it can look like whatever it wants as it is not limited by an optical viewfinder or a rangefinder set up.
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Not really, see the Olympus E-300.
True, I understated the latitude for an off-center OVF; forgetting my E-1!
Anyway, you want your digital cameras to look like film cameras; I instead want them to look however optimal ergonomics makes a non-SLR, non-rangefinder, non-film-moving photographic tool look.
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Most practical design is best. Something like Fujifilm X-T1 is practical, because the viewfinder is aligned with the lens in the most used framing, horizontal. Faux prism box holds larger than usual EVF screen. A faux rangefinder design places the viewfinder in the corner where it is not aligned with anything. Why would a fake rangefinder design be more natural than fake SLR? Form follows function, that is all.
Assuming you are right-eyed, or can shoot with your right eye, the left corner finder is way nicer because you don't have to squash your nose against the back of the camera to view straight-on through the hole. The camera body can rest against the part of your face below the right eye for the third point of contact.
The only reason the finder on the film SLRs was located where it was was because there had to be roll of film on one side and a take up spool on the other, and the mirror box can't be relocated. Ergonomically and haptically, it's lame.
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Anyway, shooting with SLR style viewfinder gives solid support, nose squashed or not, and I like a view without horizontal parallax, only a slight vertical one. Having the EVF in the corner gives both vertical and horizontal, compared to bare eye.