I've almost all but decided to purchase a 45mm TS-E lens to do landscape work with. I haven't found the answer to a couple of questions and I'm hoping someone might be able to help?
How much resolution gain can be expected from a full shift stitch with the camera in a vertical position on a 5D MKII?
Can a stitch be made without needing the camera to be level to the horizon?
I ask that last question because when I had a RRS Pano stitching kit it always had to be level to the horizon.
I've almost all but decided to purchase a 45mm TS-E lens to do landscape work with. I haven't found the answer to a couple of questions and I'm hoping someone might be able to help?
How much resolution gain can be expected from a full shift stitch with the camera in a vertical position on a 5D MKII?
Can a stitch be made without needing the camera to be level to the horizon?
I ask that last question because when I had a RRS Pano stitching kit it always had to be level to the horizon.
"To do a "perfect" stitch with a shift lens the lens must be stationary and the body shifted."
In theory yes; in practice it depends on the subject and the near/far relationships in the subject - which of course are relative to the focal length of the lens used.
Of course, but this is the same thing as using a nodal point head for "conventional" stitch panoramas. Sometimes it is mandatory, sometimes nice to have, sometimes unnecessary, depending on the near-far relationship of objects in the picture.
There is no feature of a tilt shift lens that cannot be replicated with current high quality bodies, lenses, software, and tripod heads. If you want a TS lens as a way to inspire creativity, go for it. If you think you will create more perfectly sharp images with less fuss, think again.
Except tilt.
...have an aversion to the distorted look of rotated pano's (not sure of the projection method but I like straight lines not bendy ones)
I know it is possible to SIMULATE tilt, but it is not the same thing.
Perhaps, but software simulations of tilt blur is VERY similar and when done well it is exceedingly difficult to detect. This is similar to saying that stitching panos is not the same thing as a wide angle. When it is done poorly, you are right. When it is done well, it is perfect.
... tilt simulation can not be perfectly done afterwards. Good enough for effect, yes, and good enough to fool a casual viewer who does not know what to expect and look for.
I've almost all but decided to purchase a 45mm TS-E lens to do landscape work with. I haven't found the answer to a couple of questions and I'm hoping someone might be able to help?
How much resolution gain can be expected from a full shift stitch with the camera in a vertical position on a 5D MKII?
Can a stitch be made without needing the camera to be level to the horizon?
I ask that last question because when I had a RRS Pano stitching kit it always had to be level to the horizon.
Except tilt.
There is no feature of a tilt shift lens that cannot be replicated with current high quality bodies, lenses, software, and tripod heads. If you want a TS lens as a way to inspire creativity, go for it. If you think you will create more perfectly sharp images with less fuss, think again.
There is no feature of a tilt shift lens that cannot be replicated with current high quality bodies, lenses, software, and tripod heads. If you want a TS lens as a way to inspire creativity, go for it. If you think you will create more perfectly sharp images with less fuss, think again.
When I wrote that shift can be done in software...
There is no feature of a tilt shift lens that cannot be replicated with current high quality bodies, lenses, software, and tripod heads. If you want a TS lens as a way to inspire creativity, go for it. If you think you will create more perfectly sharp images with less fuss, think again.
What lens (front) or film/sensor (rear) shift does cannot be emulated by software as by physically moving the lens or the film/sensor moves the lens axis from the center of the frame, changing what part of the subject is framed on the recording medium.
My local camera store has or used to have a Canon TS lens for rent. If it is still around, I am now curious enough to give it a try. I have the feeling that no amount of blog perusing will help me see if TS is something I may want to use more often. :-\"One test is worth a thousand internet thread postings by a bunch of opinionated old guys." (he said while looking at his reflection in a mirror ;D )
Someday we'll have sensors of such quality that we'll only need to own one lens, maybe a 10mm. Everything will be cropped and digitally manipulated from that!
I always hated physics."Physics. Why does it always have to be physics?" ;D
"Physics. Why does it always have to be physics?" ;D
The biggest issues to me seem to be parallax and lens edge performance. How close does a foreground subject really have to be before parallax becomes and issue? I would have thought the 50% overlap from the three shots would be enough to prevent this.
The corner performance there is obviously no way around. I can't test one of these lenses so I can't be sure how bad it really is.
On a different note, we have the ability to stitch to create higher megapixel images, is there a method to increase the tonality of a DSLR? I love the smoothness of tones medium format film and digital have.
On a different note, we have the ability to stitch to create higher megapixel images, is there a method to increase the tonality of a DSLR? I love the smoothness of tones medium format film and digital have.
On a different note, we have the ability to stitch to create higher megapixel images, is there a method to increase the tonality of a DSLR? I love the smoothness of tones medium format film and digital have.
As far as I know the best digital sensors (did somebody whisper "D800"?) far surpass the dynamic range of film, and there is no lack of smoothness.
Jim, I would like to keep the sensor 24x36mm for price reasons. So you're saying maybe 3 half stop increments in exposure, then stacked might create a smoother tonality? I have seen the same sort of thing done to reduce noise in an image.
Petrus, personally I find the DSLR images to be crunchy and lack the three dimensionality of film images. Have a look at some of the photos in this collection by Hin Chau http://www.hinius.net/atf.php (http://www.hinius.net/atf.php). I believe he was using a Mamiya 7 II. Or am I seeing something else?
Here's a link to one in particular http://blinding.slideshowpro.com/albums/001/390/album-122821/cache/Shanghai-18-4445-03.sjpg_800_640_0_90_0_50_50.sjpg?1360205836
Shifting a lens vertically, laterally or to some intermediate angle changes the angle of view framed by the recording medium. Lenses with shift function project a relatively large diameter image circle - shifting the position of the lens or the recording medium changes the portion of the image circle framed by the edges of the media. Pointing the camera in a different direction has the same effect. This is simple geometry and has nothing all to do with stitching multiple frames together. Tilting the lens or the film/sensor plane can change the framing of the subject as well.
Jim, I would like to keep the sensor 24x36mm for price reasons. So you're saying maybe 3 half stop increments in exposure, then stacked might create a smoother tonality? I have seen the same sort of thing done to reduce noise in an image.
This series has the 'look' very strongly:It is scanned color negative film or possibly scanned prints made mostly from color negative film. The areas where I'd expect to see black or virtual black look more like they have higher values than that and the contrast throughout is fairly low, even on images that were clearly shot in midday light on sunny days.
http://www.koxvold.com/projects/uae/
Or am I just looking at a certain type of film?
That's very interesting Bart. How would the 3 exposures be combined? Is it a simple matter of layering them in Photoshop and setting the opacity to 33%, 66% and 100% respectively?
That's very interesting Bart. How would the 3 exposures be combined? Is it a simple matter of layering them in Photoshop and setting the opacity to 33%, 66% and 100% respectively?