Luminous Landscape Forum
Equipment & Techniques => Medium Format / Film / Digital Backs – and Large Sensor Photography => Topic started by: Emilmedia on November 16, 2012, 07:25:42 am
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So as i told you earlier i got to try the Phase One p65+ and a DF kit this week. I'm DEEP in love with the IQ and the feel of the image. Specially when i add a flash to the portraits i get such a great feeling to the light and control that the 5D mk II just cant give. However i'm not a big fan of the focus system on the DF camera body. How is your experience on the Hasselblad bodies (from the h3d, h3dII, h4d and h5d)?
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The Hasselblad True Focus helps to get almost all photos in focus for static and relatively static subjects, such as models. Also compare weight, handling and quality of construction of the camera body and lenses. IQ is a good back, but complete DF system is not as great as Hasselblad H4D/H5D.
Evgeny
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Emil,
I find True Focus to be excellent for "eye focus" in portraits using the 100 f/2.2. I too like the integrated system of body and back and believe that it provides superb skin tones and very smooth tonal gradations. For me, the ergonomics are very natural and intuitive. But you know, the bottom line is, you need to try a couple of systems for yourself and determine if it fits your needs.
Good Luck,
Ed
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Hi Emil
I took a look at your portfolio.....
by the way this photo made me laugh!!!!
(http://a3.4ormat.com/vfs/24191/thumbs/857543/1600x1200.jpg)
It's brilliant.... such an original concept and as cut as it gets. I think you also touched on something that
is every babies secret wish.... bombing Mon in a bubble bath :D
Anyway going back to focus... I saw in your portfolio the you use very shallow depth of field often.
The Mamiya DF is not up to the task. It is limited by having only three not very defined focusing points
that are also to close to the center of the frame. Unless the eyes of the subject are centered in the frame you will
not get accurate crisp focus. Nothing remotely close to the 5D II, despite the focusing of the 5D being quite modest by current DSLR standards.
The focusing on the DF is quite slow. It has two settings. Fast and Accurate. In accurate mode the focusing hunts for the focus and when it "finds it"
it refocuses doing a fine focus correction. This is accurate provided you don't recompose. In fast mode it just does one hunt with out the fine focus correction.
However this is not accurate and the manual recommends shooting stopped down to at least f8.
The Hasselblad system is a bit better, but True Focus is way over rated. Even Hasselblad stated in a white paper that it isn't really effective on lenses from the 80mm up.
While they say True Focus has absolute position lock it actually does not. It only detects changes in camera angle.
The slightest move forwards or backwards when recomposing will throw focus off.
Here is the link to the Hasselblad White paper called "WHEN TRUE FOCUS MAKES A DIFFERENCE".
http://www.hasselbladusa.com/media/2234814/when%20true%20focus%20makes%20a%20difference.pdf (http://www.hasselbladusa.com/media/2234814/when%20true%20focus%20makes%20a%20difference.pdf)
Of the two systems the Hasselblad is better, but you have to be very good at using it. Personally if find that continuous
Focus and recompose is annoying to use and irritating for the subject. When focusing and recomposing with a heavy camera it is very
easy to end up moving a 1cm or 2 especially if your position isn't totally stable due to the angle you want to shoot from.... like crouching or stretching for extra hight.
The Pentax 645D has the best focusing system, but you are limited to a 44x33mm sensor.
Now that said both Hasselblad and Phase one have updated their focusing systems.
However I would not hold your breath. Improvements in the past have been very modest.
Phase one announced user focus calibration, but it still appears to be limited by only three focus points
and there is no focus and recompose correction.
Hasselblad now calls it's system True Focus II and says it has improved algorithms.
You should test them both, but do your tests side by side with a 5d mark III or D800 so as to really gauge what you will be dealing with.
Really the best way to work with shallow depth of field with an MF camera is to manually focus and use a high magnification
waist level finder. The Phase on DF does not have that option and the Hasselbld H does have a waist level finder, but it is unusable for vertical portraits.
The best modern MF DSLR for shallow depth of field work is the Rollie Hy6 with it's waist level finder.
You mentioned that you liked using flash with the DF. If it's the high speed sync you liked keep in mind two things.
First Hasselblad is only one stop behind at 1/800th instead of 1/1600th.
Second you can do high speed sync with Canon and Nikon DSLR cameras and the right type of flash, either Speedlights or strobes
using the right techniques. Not quite as simple as using a leaf shutter.
See this thread:
http://www.luminous-landscape.com/forum/index.php?topic=71679.0 (http://www.luminous-landscape.com/forum/index.php?topic=71679.0)
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Hey Fred! It really makes me glad you like it!
The short DoF portraits i will still be taking with my Canon. I will not abandon that kit. Where i live (north of sweden) we have a very low light situation 65% of the year. During summers i might be able to use the medium format hand held. But i tried it today mid day and at iso 100 and f2,8 i had to have a shutter of 1/40. Thats just not fast enough. I have to go iso 400 and f2 to get a decent shutter speed. No medium format camera handles that good enough. Maybe the IQ180 with sensor +. But that prise is way over my league.
I'm starting to build up a commercial type portfolio. And thats the work i'm aiming to get more of. So its for that type of work i'm going to use a MF camera. I'm just deeply in love with the feeling, colors and control. Feeling and colors out of camera was the reason i chose canon over nikon. And yeah, sharpness and dynamic range is better then on my Canon. But thats not the primary reason.
I'm probably going to mover over to the new high res canon camera when that comes to replace my 5D MK II. When ever that is, a year or two.
Interesting read on the true focus. In other words its really not that good for recomposing. Do you know how many focus points the hasselblads have. And from what series camera do they have true focus?
If i compare ha h3d-39 camera system, and its focus. Is it similar to the DF kit?
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Emil,
I find True Focus to be excellent for "eye focus" in portraits using the 100 f/2.2. I too like the integrated system of body and back and believe that it provides superb skin tones and very smooth tonal gradations. For me, the ergonomics are very natural and intuitive. But you know, the bottom line is, you need to try a couple of systems for yourself and determine if it fits your needs.
Good Luck,
Ed
Hey Ed.
Yes, i'm going to try it out. The thing is, there is no reseller within 600 kilometers. So i want to research before i ask them to send me a loaner or i find someone here i can borrow it from! Wich camera do you have?
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The Hasselblad True Focus helps to get almost all photos in focus for static and relatively static subjects, such as models. Also compare weight, handling and quality of construction of the camera body and lenses. IQ is a good back, but complete DF system is not as great as Hasselblad H4D/H5D.
Evgeny
Hey Evgeny!
The IQ back is above the price i'm willing to pay for a kit. But i'm thinking of getting the p65+ kit. But i have not decided on if i go with a H or DF body. Or if i should start off with a h3dii-39 or h3d-39 or save up for another 6-7 months and buy the p65+ directly. Have you tried the h3d or h3dII?
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True Focus was introduced in the H4D. The H3D does not have it.
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I tried DF and was not impressed, or better say disappointed.
I listed a few, but very important for me, reasons in the previous post, and I can add more, like fixed DF prism and lenses that look cheap and probably have plastic parts, but ever these few reasons are quite enough to avoid the DF. I not saw DF+, but from what I already heard, it is a next disappointment.
All digital back are good and produce excellent pictures. Therefore it is really matters to select the better complete system.
Leica has the best lenses, DF has a one stop faster sync speed, Pentax is the least expensive.
The H4D/H5D have a fewer than Leica very high quality lenses (28, 50II, 100, 120II Macro, 45-90, and I should add the HTS 1.5 tilt/shift adapter, and may be new 24mm lens), which actually cover all photographer's needs.
Overall the H4D/H5D is the most complete and power system. Try it and decide yourself.
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Hi Emil!
I think you will be very happy with H4x and a P65+ or a P45+.
Hasselblad has the best camera if you don't think about the Rollei hy6 II.
Henrik
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I think i'm going to want something thats at least sold in the country. :) do rollei make prism finders? I'm not so comfortable with waist level finders.
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The IQ back is above the price i'm willing to pay for a kit. But i'm thinking of getting the p65+ kit. But i have not decided on if i go with a H or DF body. Or if i should start off with a h3dii-39 or h3d-39 or save up for another 6-7 months and buy the p65+ directly. Have you tried the h3d or h3dII?
Please remember that most of Hasselblad's camera systems are locked/closed. You can only use the specific body you own with the specific back you own. If you purchase and H3D or H3DII you will not be able to just "buy the P65+ directly" and use it on your H3. With an H1, H2, or H4x - their open platform systems - you can match any Phase back to any body.
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I think i'm going to want something thats at least sold in the country. :) do rollei make prism finders? I'm not so comfortable with waist level finders.
The Rollei has different prism finders also. Brighter than both the DF and Hasselblad H.
And the AF is the best in the MF-world.
Personally I have the H4x and the DF. Hate the DF, love the H4x!!
Henrik
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Hey Ed.
Wich camera do you have?
I have the H4D31, which was the first series in which they implemented True Focus.
Good Luck,
Ed
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Please remember that most of Hasselblad's camera systems are locked/closed. You can only use the specific body you own with the specific back you own.
Are the single body units only matched to a single back unit as well as based on ownership? You can't rent a backup back?
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Please remember that most of Hasselblad's camera systems are locked/closed. You can only use the specific body you own with the specific back you own. If you purchase and H3D or H3DII you will not be able to just "buy the P65+ directly" and use it on your H3. With an H1, H2, or H4x - their open platform systems - you can match any Phase back to any body.
Yeah I know that I would have to trade up the whole kit! That's why I'm asking about the focus on the old and new houses :)
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I spent about an hour playing around with an H4d and a DF (don't think it was a plus) when we tested some kinos at the large L.A. camera store.
This wasn't anything close to a serious shoot, but I did put the focus on both cameras through some different testing and I thought they both auto focused well.
The DF was good and snapped into focus and held it even shooting a subject at a distance framed by two subjects in the foreground. The light was medium overhead florescent so it wasn't very bright.
The Hasselblad also focused as faster, maybe slightly faster and also held focus. Nearly all the frames I shot with the DF and the blad were sharp.
The only difference I noticed between the two cameras were the DF finder view is much smaller than the hasselblad, the DF seemed like a longer camera than the blad and with the H series i could manual focus with accuracy and the DF I couldn't.
Once again autofocus was fine with the DF and the body was much nicer than any mamiya 645 I've ever held.
Now, if I was buying, I'd probably like a hasselblad with the Leaf Credo back, (because I really like the Leaf interface), but don't think I'd want to go through the hassel of buying a used blad, to get an h4x. I just don't have the time to jump through hoops.
I must admit the DF did feel better in my hand as I'm not that wild about the Hasselblad grip. It's not a deal breaker but it's not the most comfortable camera I've ever held either.
I also didn't see a focus confirmation light on the DF which surprised me. Not that I use that much on my contax(s) but when I do it's a nice feature.
IMO
BC
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I also didn't see a focus confirmation light on the DF which surprised me. Not that I use that much on my contax(s) but when I do it's a nice feature.
IMO
BC
The DF does have a focus confirmation light, but if your eye isn't aligned right in the finder it tends to not be very visible.
It also has direction suggesting arrows.
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Here is a test done with the Mamiya DF to illustrate the focus and recompose problem.
Shot with the 80mm at f2.8 and on a panoramic head to keep the distance locked and locked better than any hand held re composition.
The first photo shows the extent of the re composition that is actually quite minor.
About what one would do to do a potrait with a "rule of 1/3rds" composition.
(http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8204/8191340559_b8777a9847.jpg)
Here is a crop of the feature before recomposition:
(http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8198/8192427466_9b737be72e_b.jpg)
Here is a crop after the re composition:
(http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8480/8192427420_b071c0c524_b.jpg)
One can clearly see the focus shift. This would result in blured eyes.
It isn't because of the slightly lower sharpness furthur away from the sweet spot of the lens as you can see from the increase in detail
marked by the red arrow due to the focus shift.
(http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8197/8192451246_2dfaf9030a_b.jpg)
Here are the two crops animated on top of each other to see the difference clearly
(http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8202/8192461560_bc6739fe47_o.gif)
This type of problem is resolved with certain limitations with Hasselblad True Focus.
You just have to be really careful not to move at all during re composition and to do it slowly enough for the angle (motion) sensor True focus to work.
Also I have seen that any significant vibration like loud music base or a truck going by will kill precision of the motion detector.
Use short focal lengths. True Focus can't measure the smaller angles involved in re composition with longer lenses as precisely. This is
an issue as the depth of field of longer lenses is razor thin.
Oh and the model should not move. Or in some cases even breath;)
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Hasselblad has the best camera if you don't think about the Rollei hy6 II.
;D
The Rollei has different prism finders also. Brighter than both the DF and Hasselblad H.
And the AF is the best in the MF-world.
You can read of the Hy6 story, and of details of the system here rolleiflexpages.com.
Recent at Photokina;
Hasselblad - made lots of rumble of something complete new, and delivered improvements in same old body with now metal panels...
Mamiya/PhaseOne camera - even more mediocre improvements in DF+, and to chock for all in much same old clunky body as was AF, AFD, AFDII, AFDIII, DF...
DHW announced Hy6 Mod2 and that they had been given rights to further develop the camera!!!
Of above, Hassy and Mamiya/PhaseOne ask you to sell off what you have and come with fresh $$ to buy a new body. DHW simply offers a reasonable upgrade for existing camera to internals of to Mod2...
Hy6 finders? I very much enjoy the WLF myself. I have also tried the 45 degree and 90 degree finders. The 45 degree is the brighter of the two and with larger view, but not same bright as WLF and not same large view. I also suggest to consider... the less high you need to lift camera, the more steady you can hold it, which I have found very important with an 80MP back. If not WLF, I would suggest the 45 degree. However, the WLF comes with the camera... so you could give it a go first and see if you like it, or not. It does make more compact... Regardless, there are choices.
Hy6 ergonomics? Best handling and best balanced medium format camera for digital back. Period.
Hy6 AF? I find it very very precise. Nope, it is not DSLR quick. Arguably much more precise. Funny, what was that in above about Mamiya three focus points??? Another Google search by Fred??? I had AFDIII and DSLR in past. DSLR has many focus points, sure... care to tell me which one focus on that eye??? With Hy6 the focus area is a tad larger than DSLR, but very very precise. The main difficulty in portrait and high resolution back is to focus precise at same plane as the pupil in eye when using shallow DOF. Else focus will be somewhere else (e.g. eye brow) and pupil will not be sharp.
For Hy6 there is option of new Credo back or the AFi-II backs. The Credo offer the iPhone like interface, but the AFi-II offers rotating sensor and tilt display. Mine is AFi-II 12 (80MP) and I much enjoy both rotating sensor and tilt screen.
Hy6 = one of best cameras I have used period.
Rolleiflex lenses = 80/2.8 Xenotar is glued to my camera, best wonderful character lens I have ever owned, very sharp and lovely out of focus and shallow DOF.
... my 50 FLE is likewise top notch... heck all recent Rolleiflex seem to be so, and close or on pair with large format digital lenses!!!
Sold in States? Important? You can buy factory direct from Germany. My contact at DHW is direct with CEO for service and support..., yet check with Capture Integration in States. I believe they are looking into it...
Leaf? I much enjoyed the image quality of my prior 28MP Leaf Aptus 65, but for landscapes it was something missing per my eye as far as colors and ability for transition into highlights, thus I maintained using also some film. The image quality of Leaf AFi-II 12 has made me drop film. Pixels aside - it is significant better than prior backs, more correct colors, more pleasing rendering of colors, finer gradation of tones, broader DR, more shadow detail, better shadow response... and I assume the more pixels help. 80MP means you can crop for image within image. These said, I am yet to upgrade to Capture One 7, which should improve these even more.
Compared to Mamiya? I never liked ZD camera, AFD, AFDIII, but did like Mamiya 7. The 645 lenses? Had 45D, 28D, 300 APO, 55-110, 35AF, 105-210, 24 Fish, 80/1.9 and more. The one I liked was 80/1.9, but my Rolleiflex Schneider 80/2.8 using larger sensor blows it straight out of water. Want more shallow DOF for up close, add extender ring. Works great.
I hope above helps ;)
Best regards,
Anders
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;D
You can read of the Hy6 story, and of details of the system here rolleiflexpages.com.
Recent at Photokina;
Hasselblad - made lots of rumble of something complete new, and delivered improvements in same old body with now metal panels...
Mamiya/PhaseOne camera - even more mediocre improvements in DF+, and to chock for all in much same old clunky body as was AF, AFD, AFDII, AFDIII, DF...
DHW announced Hy6 Mod2 and that they had been given rights to further develop the camera!!!
Of above, Hassy and Mamiya/PhaseOne ask you to sell off what you have and come with fresh $$ to buy a new body. DHW simply offers a reasonable upgrade for existing camera to internals of to Mod2...
Hy6 finders? I very much enjoy the WLF myself. I have also tried the 45 degree and 90 degree finders. The 45 degree is the brighter of the two and with larger view, but not same bright as WLF and not same large view. I also suggest to consider... the less high you need to lift camera, the more steady you can hold it, which I have found very important with an 80MP back. If not WLF, I would suggest the 45 degree. However, the WLF comes with the camera... so you could give it a go first and see if you like it, or not. It does make more compact... Regardless, there are choices.
Hy6 ergonomics? Best handling and best balanced medium format camera for digital back. Period.
Hy6 AF? I find it very very precise. Nope, it is not DSLR quick. Arguably much more precise. Funny, what was that in above about Mamiya three focus points??? Another Google search by Fred??? I had AFDIII and DSLR in past. DSLR has many focus points, sure... care to tell me which one focus on that eye??? With Hy6 the focus area is a tad larger than DSLR, but very very precise. The main difficulty in portrait and high resolution back is to focus precise at same plane as the pupil in eye when using shallow DOF. Else focus will be somewhere else (e.g. eye brow) and pupil will not be sharp.
For Hy6 there is option of new Credo back or the AFi-II backs. The Credo offer the iPhone like interface, but the AFi-II offers rotating sensor and tilt display. Mine is AFi-II 12 (80MP) and I much enjoy both rotating sensor and tilt screen.
Hy6 = one of best cameras I have used period.
Rolleiflex lenses = 80/2.8 Xenotar is glued to my camera, best wonderful character lens I have ever owned, very sharp and lovely out of focus and shallow DOF.
... my 50 FLE is likewise top notch... heck all recent Rolleiflex seem to be so, and close or on pair with large format digital lenses!!!
Sold in States? Important? You can buy factory direct from Germany. My contact at DHW is direct with CEO for service and support..., yet check with Capture Integration in States. I believe they are looking into it...
Leaf? I much enjoyed the image quality of my prior 28MP Leaf Aptus 65, but for landscapes it was something missing per my eye as far as colors and ability for transition into highlights, thus I maintained using also some film. The image quality of Leaf AFi-II 12 has made me drop film. Pixels aside - it is significant better than prior backs, more correct colors, more pleasing rendering of colors, finer gradation of tones, broader DR, more shadow detail, better shadow response... and I assume the more pixels help. 80MP means you can crop for image within image. These said, I am yet to upgrade to Capture One 7, which should improve these even more.
Compared to Mamiya? I never liked ZD camera, AFD, AFDIII, but did like Mamiya 7. The 645 lenses? Had 45D, 28D, 300 APO, 55-110, 35AF, 105-210, 24 Fish, 80/1.9 and more. The one I liked was 80/1.9, but my Rolleiflex Schneider 80/2.8 using larger sensor blows it straight out of water. Want more shallow DOF for up close, add extender ring. Works great.
I hope above helps ;)
Best regards,
Anders
I really appreciate it if you can give answer to the following questions!
- How much is Hy6 Mod2?
- Is it possible to use DM22 or P25+ back on it?
- Is it possible to rotate DM22 back on it like the way it works on RZ67?
- What is the widest lens for this system? And it's price?
- Is there any tilt/shift adapter?
Thank you :)
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Anders - I received the Rolleiflex Hy6 V2 and am working on finding a 3.5 + diopter for the 45 degree finder. If you have any leads, will you please let me know? jerry@jerryreed.net
Jerry
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a liitle off topic, but is there a "ignore button" for certain users?
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a liitle off topic, but is there a "ignore button" for certain users?
Heinrich - yes there is as has been pointed out to me very recently.
Go to your Profile and in "Personal Message Options" you'll find the "Ignorelist" type in the name then make sure you hit the "Change Profile" button on the bottom right corner.
It works!
Don
Hopefully the moderators are keeping track....
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Heinrich - yes there is as has been pointed out to me very recently.
Go to your Profile and in "Personal Message Options" you'll find the "Ignorelist" type in the name then make sure you hit the "Change Profile" button on the bottom right corner.
It works!
Don
Hopefully the moderators are keeping track....
Only works for personal messages. For the rest just look away ;)
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Funny, what was that in above about Mamiya three focus points??? Another Google search by Fred??? I had AFDIII and DSLR in past. DSLR has many focus points, sure... care to tell me which one focus on that eye???
Best regards,
Anders
Not really interested in responding to Anders's provocation, but I'll respond to the questions with all those question marks;) in the interest of other readers
First of all I do not need to do a google search to know that the DF only has 3 focus points. I owned both the Phase One DF645 and the Phase One AF645.
Both have the same focus point layout. No indication is given as to which focus point locks focus, but you can manually choose the one you want to use.
Regarding 35mm DSLR cameras when you have 64 or 104 focus points you have a much higher chance of a focus point being on the eyes or face.
Like here where i was shooting for 5x4 aspect ratio.
(http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8206/8194087638_0205e1db5f_c.jpg)
There are times where the eye will not fall behind a focus point, but in that case there will be one close by. Thanks to it being close by there will be less focus error
when recomposing. Also if the photographer is composing with the face quite far away from the center of the frame there is the option of using live view focus.
With live view focus the focusing point can be moved to any point on the screen and quite quickly with the joy stick. Some cameras even have face detection or feature detection.
With the D800 feature detection AF works like this.
First in non live view mode:
You set the AF mode to 3D focus. In this setup the focusing system uses a single focus point
as a target. Start by pointing the chosen focus point closest to where you will be placing the feature to focus on. Then if you change the composition
the system will choose the cameras focusing point that is closest to the remembered feature. The area where focus adjustments are made is limited to the
total area of the focus points. When you go beyond that area the focus stops at where the last available focus point left off.
Second in live view mode:
In live view mode there are two tracking options. Face detect and feature tracking. Both work in a similar way, but face detection is
based on automatic face detection (camera "knows" what faces look like) and feature detection requires a snapshot (needs to be told what to look for).
With face detection it looks for for a face in the frame and targets it for focus and will follow the face around the frame doing it's best to keep it in focus.
It is actually really quite fast, but not as fast as phase detection.
With feature detection you switch to target focus. You get a square to start with and press the center button of the multi function control on either the
body or vertical grip. This tells the camera what to look for and the camera will follow this feature around the frame and even if the photographer or subject move forwards or backwards. The feature can change size and still be followed accurately.
Here is a video that shows the live view focus tracking.
http://youtu.be/JzIxNOBPaaM (http://youtu.be/JzIxNOBPaaM)
Here are a few quick tests to show how well the different focus options on the d800 work in situations where with a single
focus point you would have to recompose.
The first one is regular viewfinder focusing, but instead of using the center most focusing point I used the one closest
to the top right corner and then recomposed putting the subject right up in the right hand corner. Focus is on the ledge
under the numbers. 100% crop
(http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8064/8198367058_8890fe4b8d_c.jpg)
The following shot is using live view focusing using using a manual set focusing point with the joystick/multifuction button
with the subject in the top right hand corner. 100% crop
(http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8198/8197914384_096e49289e_c.jpg)
The following was shot using live view target mode. First the target is set using the multi function button.
Then I recomposed and the live view focusing tracks the subject. I moved the subject around the frame
and had the tracking follow. I then chose the composition with the subject in the top right corner of the frame.
Stopped for a fraction of a second and shot the frame. 100% crop
(http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8483/8197914306_60484b5dc2_c.jpg)
The following photo was taken with the face recognition live view method. In doing this test I moved around so as to somewhat simulate a model
making changes to a pose. I even did some figure of 8s with the camera to challenge the live view focusing. I also move forward an backwards.
The final composition was again with the subject in the top right of the frame. What is very nice about the facial recognition focusing is that
the size of the focusing box scales continuously with size of the face hence producing accurate focus. 50% crop to keep some text in the shot.
(http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8200/8198028596_2ee76c7bc4_c.jpg)
One other really neat feature of face recognition with the D800 is face review after shooting.
Regardless of what focusing method was used when reviewing a photo you can quickly look at a closeup
of each face. This is really handy if you are shooting groups on location.
It is also really useful if you are shooting two models in one shot with a tilt shift lens wide open and one model close
and one model furthur away. Like in this shot:
(http://farm7.staticflickr.com/6055/6241308993_b33837faaf_b.jpg)
Shot on film, just using it to describe the setup.
Top is without tilt bottom is with tilt.
Here is how after the fact face recognition works when reviewing images.
http://youtu.be/yNajUFMpISs (http://youtu.be/yNajUFMpISs)
This is also useful when reviewing a fashion accessory shot. I did a shot where I wanted an accessory to be in focus as well as the face, but shoot wide
open for shallow depth of field and an 85mm tilt shift to focus face and purse. I would review the shot zooming in on the purse and then with no hunting around just one click of the front dial. It would find and zoom in on the face. This also works on HDMI output. Very handy for quick review on portable HDMI monitors.
In conclusion. While there are some gradual improvements in AF and focus review with medium format cameras many issues remain to be addressed.
This is particularly relevant if one keeps in mind that one of the repeated marketing points of Medium Format is shallow depth of field.
Hasselblad with true focus has at leased addressed the recompose issue with shorter focal lengths.
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Only works for personal messages. For the rest just look away ;)
Once again contrary to what Fred believes - he's proven wrong.
When you are ignoring a particular (or is that peculiar) individual you are greeted with the following message: "Your are ignoring this user. Show me the post.
And yes Fred I did click on the link.....
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Once again contrary to what Fred believes - he's proven wrong.
When you are ignoring a particular (or is that peculiar) individual you are greeted with the following message: "Your are ignoring this user. Show me the post.
And yes Fred I did click on the link.....
Proven wrong????? I said you have to look away...
You still have to look away. It only hides the body of the post, but tempts you to read it....
Why ignore and then click on the link ;). Isn't that like sticking your head under the sand with your bottom in the air.....
and pulling your head up when someone slaps your bottom.... :D Just kidding ;)
Ah Ha... gottcha..... so you don't ignore my posts ;)
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Sadly it only works when you're logged in. ::)
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Stop the kindergarten bashing. I think Fred does make some great points and i do know he likes the d800. And i know other people like other cameras. I'm def going medium format, not sure wich one to buy yet. But Why is everyone so offended by someones choice of camera?
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Honestly, if anyone wants to improve focus accuracy on any camera, use a good tripod with a good head. Everything get's easier than mobility.
I start with a tripod but must admit, that under a lot of conditions move away from it, but when we review the files from any format, the ones on a tripod are more tack sharp than the ones without, regardless of lighting, movement, camera, shutter, etc.
IMO
BC
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Only works for personal messages. For the rest just look away ;)
I'm trying to ignore somebody else. ;D
@ Don: thanks, it does work perfectly
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Are the single body units only matched to a single back unit as well as based on ownership? You can't rent a backup back?
No you cannot rent a backup back but actually you can rent an entire camera for similar amounts to the rental cost of a P1. In addition it is the mechanical parts of the camera that are more likely to fail and you can buy or rent a backup body - go figure?
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Honestly, if anyone wants to improve focus accuracy on any camera, use a good tripod with a good head. Everything get's easier than mobility.
I start with a tripod but must admit, that under a lot of conditions move away from it, but when we review the files from any format, the ones on a tripod are more tack sharp than the ones without, regardless of lighting, movement, camera, shutter, etc.
IMO
BC
While a tripod will certainly increase sharpness of an image in most situations and facilitate accurate finding of focus both manually and in AF it will not really help much with the focus and recompose issue. The focal plane will still move away from the eyes when re composing. Just the fact that the fulcrum of the rotation of the head is below the camera it will make the camera closer to the subject when you tilt down.
That said I very much like to work with a camera stand. In studio I like to use a relatively small column stand with it very well balanced.
However I like to bring my own head that is a legacy Fatif large format head. It has far better locking and friction control. It uses very easy to service and clean parts.
It have made both long and short arms for it. Very little rotation of the knobs is needed to free, friction or lock the movements.
Here is a shot of the head:
(http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8486/8193359243_a71a49ac2f.jpg)
(http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8063/8194451108_3d43cdc06c.jpg)
I have a few fancy ball heads, but I end up going back to the trusty olf Fatif head.
I don't think it's made anymore.
I also like to put just the right counter balance on the column stand. Once it is well balanced I can take the locks off and literally walk around the studio holding the head grips and the column stand just rolls around with me. I also changed the wheels on my column stand to high performance roller blade type wheels for smoother rolling.
Funny thing is that one day I showed up to shoot an a-list actor on a film set in an airport hanger. I had a studio column stand delivered and when I went in to
mount my head on it the camera operator was mounting his own wheels onto the mitchell motion picture gear head...... he said he knows his wheels better and they are the older more rounded ones. We had a laugh and took the piss out of eachother ;)
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No you cannot rent a backup back but actually you can rent an entire camera for similar amounts to the rental cost of a P1. In addition it is the mechanical parts of the camera that are more likely to fail and you can buy or rent a backup body - go figure?
Most photographers buy backup camera bodies. I had Two Phase one bodies, but one back. Sometimes I would rent a second back.
It's also nice not to rent a second body because of all the menu settings.
How would that work for a Hasselblad H4D system. Can a photographer have a complete camera and a second body as a backup if it's the same model?
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I really appreciate it if you can give answer to the following questions!
- How much is Hy6 Mod2?
- Is it possible to use DM22 or P25+ back on it?
- Is it possible to rotate DM22 back on it like the way it works on RZ67?
- What is the widest lens for this system? And it's price?
- Is there any tilt/shift adapter?
Thank you :)
Hi Aryan,
i. Price need to be confirmed, but some mentioning here; http://www.luminous-landscape.com/forum/index.php?topic=68924.msg558322#msg558322
ii. The Hy6 require AFi back mount. DM22 has Mamiya. Phase One backs are regrettably not available in AFi mounts.
iii. It is not possible to rotate the back (though that was possible with a Sinar back for the Sinar version of Hy6, not sure if they fit on DHW Hy6 or not). The AFi-II backs enable rotating the sensor and that works excellent. Credo backs do not permit this.
iv. There is no tilt/shift adapter, but there is a tilt/shift lens. For tilt/shift, perhaps better with a tech camera?
Anders - I received the Rolleiflex Hy6 V2 and am working on finding a 3.5 + diopter for the 45 degree finder. If you have any leads, will you please let me know? jerry@jerryreed.net
Jerry
Hi Jerry,
I assume you mean Mod2? Great to hear of someone getting one! How do you like it?
Am afraid that I have no leads on diopter. Best bet is likely to contact DHW directly, e.g. by calling them http://rolleiflexpages.com/testsandinformation.html. If you have lots of big luck perhaps Igorcamera have one, since they do carry some used stock of Hy6.
Regarding 35mm DSLR cameras when you have 64 or 104 focus points you have a much higher chance of a focus point being on the eyes or face.
When shooting a model it can require a split second to capture a certain pose/mode/expression, at least to me a tad more complex to set one among those 999 points rather than using the one focus point on Hy6 and knowing what you precise place it upon... while estimate focus shift when recompose. Live view would simply add complexity in same situation... :o
Different tools of course. Yet this is about medium format, if in it for that and the qualities that brings, I frank do not understand why even discuss D800...
Stop the kindergarten bashing. I think Fred does make some great points and i do know he likes the d800. And i know other people like other cameras. I'm def going medium format, not sure wich one to buy yet. But Why is everyone so offended by someones choice of camera?
Much respect to others choice of camera, and sincerely. Simply we do not all have same preferences or requirements etc. There are indeed different preferences... which begs no wonder...
... when seems on this forum one mans crusade on MFD industry continue raging, 99% on google searches and not capable to post a single quality shot he has made himself with one of the MFD gear he claims to have owned...
Difficult not to comment on. Just sayin... ;)
Ugh, yet another 'mine is bigger than yours' thread.
No. I speak very honest from my experience. Frankly, I did not like Mamiya 645 system and had problem and lost on ZD camera. Still, when comes to the Mamiya 7, Mamiya did get things very right and it was a very excellent camera system. So is Hy6 and lenses, and it frank gave me a very impressive pleasant surprise. So did the 80MP Leaf.
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How would that work for a Hasselblad H4D system. Can a photographer have a complete camera and a second body as a backup if it's the same model?
Yes.
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Much respect to others choice of camera, and sincerely. Simply we do not all have same preferences or requirements etc. There are indeed different preferences... which begs no wonder...
... when seems on this forum one mans crusade on MFD industry continue raging, 99% on google searches and not capable to post a single quality shot he has made himself with one of the MFD gear he claims to have owned...
Difficult not to comment on. Just sayin... ;)
Dude give it up, nobody cares. Mind your own business and stop putting in energy in complaining about what others think of the camera you use and what he thinks of the manufacturer.
Spend more time on those long helpful posts of yours instead!
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Dude give it up, nobody cares. Mind your own business and stop putting in energy in complaining about what others think of the camera you use and what he thinks of the manufacturer.
Spend more time on those long helpful posts of yours instead!
That is nice. Believe you read me wrong. Why the heck would I care an ounce what others think of my camera????????? It will imminent be superseded in world camera history by tad newer gear. So what? I feel fortunte I (finally) found what feels photographically longterm works very well for me, a tool that helps for myself achieve pictures that keeps me content. That what matter in end to any individual I would think.
Apart from that, nothing in my experience changed since film, good MF, good 35mm based --- different. Simple.
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That is nice. Believe you read me wrong. Why the heck would I care an ounce what others think of my camera????????? It will imminent be superseded in world camera history by tad newer gear. So what? I feel fortunte I (finally) found what feels photographically longterm works very well for me, a tool that helps for myself achieve pictures that keeps me content. That what matter in end to any individual I would think.
Apart from that, nothing in my experience changed since film, good MF, good 35mm based --- different. Simple.
we all are glad you're so much in love with your choice. go out and take some great pictures with it. let the wlf help you to compose and see the best pictures in the world. because you've got the best camera of the world on your cupboard.
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Not really interested in responding to Anders's provocation, but I'll respond to the questions with all those question marks;) in the interest of other readers
First of all I do not need to do a google search to know that the DF only has 3 focus points. I owned both the Phase One DF645 and the Phase One AF645.
Both have the same focus point layout. No indication is given as to which focus point locks focus, but you can manually choose the one you want to use.
Regarding 35mm DSLR cameras when you have 64 or 104 focus points you have a much higher chance of a focus point being on the eyes or face.
Like here where i was shooting for 5x4 aspect ratio.
(http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8206/8194087638_0205e1db5f_c.jpg)
There are times where the eye will not fall behind a focus point, but in that case there will be one close by. Thanks to it being close by there will be less focus error
when recomposing. Also if the photographer is composing with the face quite far away from the center of the frame there is the option of using live view focus.
With live view focus the focusing point can be moved to any point on the screen and quite quickly with the joy stick. Some cameras even have face detection or feature detection.
With the D800 feature detection AF works like this.
First in non live view mode:
You set the AF mode to 3D focus. In this setup the focusing system uses a single focus point
as a target. Start by pointing the chosen focus point closest to where you will be placing the feature to focus on. Then if you change the composition
the system will choose the cameras focusing point that is closest to the remembered feature. The area where focus adjustments are made is limited to the
total area of the focus points. When you go beyond that area the focus stops at where the last available focus point left off.
Second in live view mode:
In live view mode there are two tracking options. Face detect and feature tracking. Both work in a similar way, but face detection is
based on automatic face detection (camera "knows" what faces look like) and feature detection requires a snapshot (needs to be told what to look for).
With face detection it looks for for a face in the frame and targets it for focus and will follow the face around the frame doing it's best to keep it in focus.
It is actually really quite fast, but not as fast as phase detection.
With feature detection you switch to target focus. You get a square to start with and press the center button of the multi function control on either the
body or vertical grip. This tells the camera what to look for and the camera will follow this feature around the frame and even if the photographer or subject move forwards or backwards. The feature can change size and still be followed accurately.
Here is a video that shows the live view focus tracking.
http://youtu.be/JzIxNOBPaaM (http://youtu.be/JzIxNOBPaaM)
Here are a few quick tests to show how well the different focus options on the d800 work in situations where with a single
focus point you would have to recompose.
The first one is regular viewfinder focusing, but instead of using the center most focusing point I used the one closest
to the top right corner and then recomposed putting the subject right up in the right hand corner. Focus is on the ledge
under the numbers. 100% crop
(http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8064/8198367058_8890fe4b8d_c.jpg)
The following shot is using live view focusing using using a manual set focusing point with the joystick/multifuction button
with the subject in the top right hand corner. 100% crop
(http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8198/8197914384_096e49289e_c.jpg)
The following was shot using live view target mode. First the target is set using the multi function button.
Then I recomposed and the live view focusing tracks the subject. I moved the subject around the frame
and had the tracking follow. I then chose the composition with the subject in the top right corner of the frame.
Stopped for a fraction of a second and shot the frame. 100% crop
(http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8483/8197914306_60484b5dc2_c.jpg)
The following photo was taken with the face recognition live view method. In doing this test I moved around so as to somewhat simulate a model
making changes to a pose. I even did some figure of 8s with the camera to challenge the live view focusing. I also move forward an backwards.
The final composition was again with the subject in the top right of the frame. What is very nice about the facial recognition focusing is that
the size of the focusing box scales continuously with size of the face hence producing accurate focus. 50% crop to keep some text in the shot.
(http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8200/8198028596_2ee76c7bc4_c.jpg)
One other really neat feature of face recognition with the D800 is face review after shooting.
Regardless of what focusing method was used when reviewing a photo you can quickly look at a closeup
of each face. This is really handy if you are shooting groups on location.
It is also really useful if you are shooting two models in one shot with a tilt shift lens wide open and one model close
and one model furthur away. Like in this shot:
(http://farm7.staticflickr.com/6055/6241308993_b33837faaf_b.jpg)
Shot on film, just using it to describe the setup.
Top is without tilt bottom is with tilt.
Here is how after the fact face recognition works when reviewing images.
http://youtu.be/yNajUFMpISs (http://youtu.be/yNajUFMpISs)
This is also useful when reviewing a fashion accessory shot. I did a shot where I wanted an accessory to be in focus as well as the face, but shoot wide
open for shallow depth of field and an 85mm tilt shift to focus face and purse. I would review the shot zooming in on the purse and then with no hunting around just one click of the front dial. It would find and zoom in on the face. This also works on HDMI output. Very handy for quick review on portable HDMI monitors.
In conclusion. While there are some gradual improvements in AF and focus review with medium format cameras many issues remain to be addressed.
This is particularly relevant if one keeps in mind that one of the repeated marketing points of Medium Format is shallow depth of field.
Hasselblad with true focus has at leased addressed the recompose issue with shorter focal lengths.
Thanks for taking the time to illustrate the point. This kind of answers really set the forum apart.
We can sustain a constructive discussion.
Best regards,
James
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Thanks James.... your very welcome.
With MF it is important to know what benefits one gets, but it is also very important to keep in mind what one does not get.
Focusing is IMO a crucial area because MF and 35mm DSLR cameras have crammed extraordinary quality and resolution into
small cameras with small viewfinder. While the print size that can be done with these cameras has increased dramatically the viewfinders are pretty much the same.
In some cases they have lost some options. The Phase On DF+ does not have a high magnification waist level finder for example.
Also worth repeating that the focus and recompose issue is less of a problem with longer focal lengths. Being further away but still cropping tight
the angle change when recomposing is much less, however great care must be taken to avoid the model or photographer moving loser of further away during the re composition.
I'd also like to add that while the DF and DF+ have AF limitations a Mamiya/Phase one user can get a Mamiya RZ and the 150mm 3.5 as an extension to their system
and then use a high magnification loup and manually focus on the focusing screen. Hoever Phase Mamiya needs to step up and make a waistlevel finder and high magnification loup finder
optimized for the RZ when using a digital back that is a 50% crop (or there abouts) of the RZ frame.
Another candidate as a system extension would be a Fuji gx680.
Here is Fuji's moving high magnification loup. http://youtu.be/V74h4VaQSQ4 (http://youtu.be/V74h4VaQSQ4)
Compared to film digital has also introduced another issue. With film you have a thing called focus buzz due to the thickness of film.
This means that film will have a slightly higher chance of capturing focus when shooting wide open as well as more apparent focus when you are slightly off.
In some circumstances and aspects MF cameras still have an AF focusing system and viewfinders that are more appropriate for film
having only made modest advancements while other smaller systems have made revolutionary progress in AF.
The other aspect of this is that both MF and 35mm high end Digital have reached a quality point where they both exceed most print quality
needs.See this article: http://www.circleofconfusion.ie/d800e-vs-phase-one-iq180/ (http://www.circleofconfusion.ie/d800e-vs-phase-one-iq180/). For this reason functionality, ergonomics and personal preference become more important.
It is no longer necessary to make massive investments in camera bodies or bodies and backs.
This free's up resources to invest in other areas that will dramatically change ones career. There are a lot of things one can do with that extra $ 35,000.
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I missed one other semi automated focusing function of the D800 that is very handy
with manual focus.
I'm not sure if this was an intended function, but it works very nicely.
I call it face detection assisted manual focus.
In live view mode you can use face detection even in manual focus mode so that when you zoom in on the LCD screen you
do not have to use the joy stick to find the face.
This is how it works. You set the camera to AF face detection and point the camera at the face.
You then switch to manual focus. The face recognition continues working. It continues working for many shots and will
recognize new "faces" too.
The advantage with this is that when you zoom in on the LCD screen the camera automatically zooms in on the face regardless of where it is in frame.
Also what is really neat is that this also works if you have more than one face in the shot.
(http://farm7.staticflickr.com/6118/6241351131_aa6f1963ec_b.jpg)
Lets say I was shooting the shot above. In this "face detection assisted manual focus" mode
the camera would find both faces, but target the larger one. I can then zoom in with the LCD screen
and check focus. Then without zooming back out I can switch to the other face and check focus there.
This is extremely helpful when using tilt shift lenses to focus on two models faces while keeping depth of field
small. First roughly set your tilt. Focus on the close model, zoom in, fine focus, toggle to the other model and check the focus.
If it's not quite right make a small adjustment to the tilt. Check focus again and toggle back to the other face.
End result being something like this:
(http://farm7.staticflickr.com/6168/6241351155_3ceef9d332_b.jpg)
Again this example was shot on film, I just used it to help illustrate the method.
However keep in mind that I shot this with the Fuji gx680 with it's big 6x8cm focusing screen
and it's moving high magnification focusing loup. http://youtu.be/V74h4VaQSQ4 (http://youtu.be/V74h4VaQSQ4)
While phase one has a tilt shift lens it is just way to hard to use it in a situation like the above photo
due to the small viewfinder, phase one live view limitations and relatively dark and slow lens with a 5.6
maximum aperture.
Another really good use for this is if you are shooting a group of models and simply want to take a close look at each
models expression or angle of their pose. Extremely useful when using very high contrast light such as a Fresnel
where you really want each model to hold their head at the angle that is more flattering for their face.
I also discussed with Nikon implementing a manual focus assist more with two targets rather than face detection.
This would be particularly useful for using tilt shift lenses letting you toggle between the two targets when in zoomed in mode.
They were very receptive and believe that it could be implemented in firmware.
I also suggested movable guide lines for assisting composition for advertising layouts. That too can be done in firmware both in the optical viewfinder
and the LCD screen.
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It seems 35mm companies listen to the market in mass, not in specific professional needs, at least once you get past the sports photographers.
In fact I'd love to know the ratio of amateurs to professionals using higher end 35mm cameras. I bet the numbers would be heavily titled towards amateurs.
For advertising and editorial, I've never understood why a camera like the Nikons cannot have a switch than senses when your vertical, giving you a 4:5 type crop and additionally the crop changes when you go horizontal, giving the standard 2:3 crop which fits well for double truck and web.
I'd personally would like to see 35mm manufactures make larger optical viewing screens that can be manually focused, but that doesn't seem high on the list.
Go shoot a film Nikon F5 and then pick up a D800, D4 or any other current Nikon digital camera and you'll know what I mean.
IMO
BC
PS
I did a test for a week where I put a Nikon D4 and my Contax on a table in the studio for a week. I set both to manual focus.
Off and on when I'd pass the cameras, I would take one, quickly manually focus on something in the studio fire one frame. The pick up the other one and do the same.
After a week when I download the files into the computer the in focus Contax shots were about 2 to 1 to the Nikon.
Now I don't own a Hasselblad H, but I know in the brief time I've either tested or used those various H series, manual focus was easier than with my Contax, because the viewfinder is huge and bright.
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It seems 35mm companies listen to the market in mass, not in specific professional needs, at least once you get past the sports photographers.
In fact I'd love to know the ratio of amateurs to professionals using higher end 35mm cameras. I bet the numbers would be heavily titled towards amateurs.
Biased source, but interesting marketing campaign:
http://www.petapixel.com/2012/11/20/survey-majority-of-dslr-shooters-use-their-cameras-as-point-and-shoots/#more-88681
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That is Sony pushing the NEX.
I'm sure that a survey of top of the line 35mm DSLR users would return totally different results.
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It seems 35mm companies listen to the market in mass, not in specific professional needs, at least once you get past the sports photographers.
These companies are giants and you can rest assured that they listen to the relevant people for each of their target markets for the vastly
diverse range of cameras they make.
I have had my brain picked by various manufacturers, from cameras, lighting, film and grip gear.
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For advertising and editorial, I've never understood why a camera like the Nikons cannot have a switch than senses when your vertical, giving you a 4:5 type crop and additionally the crop changes when you go horizontal, giving the standard 2:3 crop which fits well for double truck and web.
IMO
BC
Why .... does any MF have the option to automatically switch to 2:3 when going from vertical to horizontal?
At least on 35mm DSLR brand rotates it's on screen menu display when the camera is held vertically... Sony.
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The "face detection assisted manual focus" trick I mentioned above also works
in video mode while setting up a shot. Use it as I described above and just hit record
and the lcd goes straight back to full display.
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So another quesion that kinda touches the discussion here earlier:
IF i for example buy a P65+ and a Hassy body. I can not use this back on a different body? Or is it the camera that cant attach a different back then the p65+ i buy?
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So another quesion that kinda touches the discussion here earlier:
IF i for example buy a P65+ and a Hassy body. I can not use this back on a different body? Or is it the camera that cant attach a different back then the p65+ i buy?
If you have a P65+ in an H-mount then you can use that back on absolutely any (working) H1, H2, or H4X. You can also use any other Phase One or Leaf H-mount digital back on your H1/H2/H4X body. It is a completely unlocked and open system in that regard.
This is not the case with the H3D/H4D/H5D.
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Thanks doug. So is if i for example buy a h4x or h1 to start with, and buy a second body, i'll be fine? Same goes with spare back.
Is there any adapters from H - M mount?
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So is if i for example buy a h4x or h1 to start with, and buy a second body, i'll be fine? Same goes with spare back.
Yes and yes.
Assuming of course the spare back is a Phase One or Leaf (or the Sinar H mount or CF series back). The H3D, H4D, H5D back for instance does not work on an H1/H2/H4X.
Is there any adapters from H - M mount?
No.
You can swap an H mount back for an M mount back for $3k, but you cannot adapt any given between them.
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The first thing I do when considering a camera is look through the viewfinder. If it falls short here I look no further.
Maybe it's just me but this thread which was started as a discussion about the AF on two MF systems has now turned into a 35mm user manual...yet all those poor guys reading the 35mm forums are missing out on some good advice...
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Maybe it's just me but this thread which was started as a discussion about the AF on two MF systems has now turned into a 35mm user manual...yet all those poor guys reading the 35mm forums are missing out on some good advice...
Yair,
At this stage I think you know there will NEVER be a question about a medium format camera without it morphing into a 35mm is better debate.
It's just a process of the internet, heck the world where words are easy, doing is hard.
I'm the first to admit I've had some issues with medium format equipment, but I'm also the first to admit that my two backs and ol' ghetto Contax cameras are the most cost effective equipment I own, (except C-stands and rollers), because they seem to last forever (the cameras and the grip equipment).
What I don't understand is why it has to be a one camera world. Sure I could shoot everything with a 16mpx dslr and maybe no client would complain and in some instances I absolutely have to use a 16 mpx camera with fast frame rates and ultra high iso.
That said, since I do a wide variety of work, I can't imagine having a one camera fits all scenario.
So even though your comment was pretty much tounge in cheek, I think you and I both know that in todays world if you say an Aston Martin is really a rush, somebody's gonna say "yea, but you can't haul 24 Guinness cases in an Aston like you can a Transit Van.
The one thing that is always left off of these comparisons that some people really like the cameras they use, even is some tech sheet shows them inferior.
Tech sheets don't produce photographs and can't document the experience of how we actually work.
IMO
BC
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Maybe it's just me but this thread which was started as a discussion about the AF on two MF systems has now turned into a 35mm user manual...yet all those poor guys reading the 35mm forums are missing out on some good advice...
The guys reading the other forums are not missing out... I've discussed and shared this info on the Cameras, Lenses and Shooting gear.
Also your rather sarcastic comment about the thread turning into a 35mm user manual is uncalled for. I think I also covered the differences between the two MF systems.
Regarding "35mm user manual".... I am just giving an in depth description of the "state of the art" of auto focus.
Explaining how it is used is important as accuracy and usability are both relevant.
I also think that it is particularly relevant in consideration of the fact that Emil the OP
is considering a 40MP back and that the difference in image quality between a 40MP back and a D800 is very very close as this comparison shows
(http://photigy.s3.amazonaws.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/07/NikonD800-face-crop1.jpg)
(http://photigy.s3.amazonaws.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/07/Hasselblad-h4d40-vs-face-crop-1.jpg)
both are crops from this framing:
(http://www.photigy.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/07/Nikon-d800e-test-review-sample-image.jpg)
One is 35mm DSLR and one is MF digital.
(credit) http://www.photigy.com/nikon-d800e-test-review-vs-hasselblad-h4d40-35mm-against-medium-format/ (http://www.photigy.com/nikon-d800e-test-review-vs-hasselblad-h4d40-35mm-against-medium-format/)
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Hi,
Tripod and live view at actual pixels. Unless your subject is mobile, of course ;-)
Best regards
Erik
Honestly, if anyone wants to improve focus accuracy on any camera, use a good tripod with a good head. Everything get's easier than mobility.
I start with a tripod but must admit, that under a lot of conditions move away from it, but when we review the files from any format, the ones on a tripod are more tack sharp than the ones without, regardless of lighting, movement, camera, shutter, etc.
IMO
BC
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Hi,
Tripod and live view at actual pixels. Unless your subject is mobile, of course ;-)
Best regards
Erik
Actually a tripod will help focus in moving situations too, both manual and auto focus.
Even when shooting a moving model using a video tripod with a fluid head will help
auto focus by reducing jitter. By reducing jitter the AF system gets a cleaner image to work with.
IS lenses when working hand held also help the AF system in a camera.
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Hi,
Thanks for good info.
The issue I have with live view on moving subjects is that they move. Live view manual focus does take some time. Other than that I consider LV focus to be the best method.
Best regards
Erik
Actually a tripod will help focus in moving situations too, both manual and auto focus.
Even when shooting a moving model using a video tripod with a fluid head will help
auto focus by reducing jitter. By reducing jitter the AF system gets a cleaner image to work with.
IS lenses when working hand held also help the AF system in a camera.