Luminous Landscape Forum
Equipment & Techniques => Landscape Photography Locations => Topic started by: marcmccalmont on July 21, 2012, 04:09:09 pm
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It looks like I have the month of September off so I'd like to take a photo trek through some of our national Parks in the South Western US. I'd probably rent a SUV and drive to most of the parks. I've never been to any of the National Parks in this region so any help planning this trip would be appreciated. I don't know where to start! Specific sites for spectacular images would be a great help.
Thanks
Marc
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One thing I did: fly to Las Vegas, rent a car, do a 3000 miles road trip: Grand Canyon NP, Monument Valley, Arches NP, Capitol Reef NP, Bryce Canyon NP, Zion NP, back to Las Vegas. I did it in about two-three weeks, staying for about 2-3 days in each location. I used a National Geographic guide to national parks.
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I'll pick up one of those guides. Anything you would do different? Marc
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... Anything you would do different? Marc
Ah, yes... wouldn't take my (then) two and a half year old kid along, nor my (then) wife, who happened to have uncontrollable hunger and thirst attacks precisely during the half an hour window of opportunity that sunset provides. ;) Sunrises were ok though... they were soundly sleeping through it.
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Go to Amazon and order the two volume set "Photographing the Southwest" by Laurent Martres.
Later,
Johnny
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Make sure you plan for enough time. There are huge distances between lots of great places. Do the North rim of the Grand Canyon ONLY if you can get lodgings there, otherwise rooms available are 70+ miles away.
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Ah, yes... wouldn't take my (then) two and a half year old kid along, nor my wife, who happened to have uncontrollable hunger and thirst attacks precisely during the half an hour window of opportunity that sunset provides. ;) Sunrises were ok though... they were soundly sleeping through it.
Problem solved got a divorce and the kid is in college! Marc
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Go to Amazon and order the two volume set "Photographing the Southwest" by Laurent Martres.
Later,
Johnny
Done, now a 3 volume set Thanks Marc
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Slobodan's list pretty much hits (arguably) all the high points. You couldn't go wrong by following his itinerary.
Another recommendation for the Laurent Martres books, too.
Lisa
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Or just go to one location, toss the keys in a drawer, and do some damned fine photography. In the higher altitudes especially, September brings rapid changes in foliage and light as Summer morphs into Autumn. That's an interesting and oft neglected subject in its own right. But don't listen to me, I hate odometers and despise gas stations.
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for an off the beaten path spot - Coral pink sands state park, just outside of Kanab, Utah between Zion, Bryce, and the North Rim of the Grand Canyon NP.
http://stateparks.utah.gov/parks/coral-pink
http://maps.google.com/maps?oe=utf-8&rls=org.mozilla:en-US:official&client=firefox-a&um=1&ie=UTF-8&q=coral+pink+sands+state+park+utah&fb=1&gl=us&hq=coral+pink+sands+state+park&hnear=0x874c6bc78f13f9cd:0xbddf4aa56cd7463f,Utah&cid=0,0,7506807474767646771&sa=X&ei=TmQLUOOzEqX02wWphOUx&ved=0CJEBEPwSMAM
You will want to have reservations most places, particularly in the NP lodges, although i usually got lucky on cancellations by calling at 3pm or so each day, unless you want to tent camp :-)
Frank
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It looks like I have the month of September off so I'd like to take a photo trek through some of our national Parks in the South Western US.
Don't know where you'll be starting at nor finishing but...this is a great trip...
Zion
Bryce
Escalante (along Route 12)
Capital Reef
Canyonlands
Arches
Each area is worth a few days (if not more) and the more time you have to explore and get off the beaten path the better. You would be close to Antelope Canyon and Monument Valley (a bit of a drive depending on how you get there but worth the trip is you have time). If you get near Monument Valley, go...it's metaphysical...but also not too far from Mesa Verde in Southwestern, Co.
This is a great place to shoot...but expect long drives and long days with sometimes few places to stay...plan on filling up whenever you see a gas station...
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Don't know where you'll be starting at nor finishing but...this is a great trip...
Zion
Bryce
Escalante (along Route 12)
Capital Reef
Canyonlands
Arches
Each area is worth a few days (if not more) and the more time you have to explore and get off the beaten path the better. You would be close to Antelope Canyon and Monument Valley (a bit of a drive depending on how you get there but worth the trip is you have time). If you get near Monument Valley, go...it's metaphysical...but also not too far from Mesa Verde in Southwestern, Co.
This is a great place to shoot...but expect long drives and long days with sometimes few places to stay...plan on filling up whenever you see a gas station...
well I have the month of September off w/o a schedule, I'll be leaving from Kona (a lot of miles to use from Hawaiian Airlines!) so I thought I'd fly into vegas and rent a SUV. Would there be a better place to start from? I've got friends to see in Colorado Springs and Ojai California. Since I have no schedule if a place is magical I'll spend more than a few days. I'm an east coast boy so It's kind of a dream trip for me never been to these National Parks ...ever. Marc
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If you have never been to the SW, this is a physically demanding environment. i've backpacked it for years. Heat and low humidity make carrying water your #1 concern. Keep some in the car and with you. 1-2 qts. per day for light to moderate activity level. If you are visiting the heavily traveled areas, you shouldn't have any issue, but if you go off on a trail by yourself, you need to be prepared. It can get cold at night. Depending on elevation, temps can range between below freezing at night to above 90 F during the afternoon. Check out the NPS site for each park for the climate history. www.weatherunderground.com is another good source. Talk with the rangers at the station about your plans if you intend to hike.
You will be at 6-8000 feet much of the time north of the grand canyon while you are on the Colorado plateau, so everything takes a little extra effort. http://cpluhna.nau.edu/Places/places.htm
An annual entry pass for $80 can be a good deal depending on your plans.
http://www.nps.gov/findapark/passes.htm
Cell phones do not generally work except along some of the highways, but it somewhat depends on the carrier. Inside the parks can be spotty at best.
Frank
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About trip difficulty: I am a creature of comfort, and not a backpacker, so my experience may not be applicable to everyone, but I found the trip to be rather easy. After all, I had a two and a half year old daughter in the car all the time. I had a simple sedan, not SUV. One of the main attractions of U.S. national parks (for me) is that everything is within 200 yards from the nearest parking lot, and that was the extent of my hiking as well. One thing I did have in the car all the time is a lot of water bottles.
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Go to Amazon and order the two volume set "Photographing the Southwest" by Laurent Martres.
Later,
Johnny
I agree completely, except there are 3 books. Get the one which covers Southern Utah as hopefully this is where you will be going. I also 2nd Jeff Schewe's list of suggested places. All are epic. If you go to Monument Valley, plan on staying 2 nights and taking a full day guided tour on the full day you are there. Led by a local guide, it is the only way you can get off the "beaten path". I will be in Boulder (Hwy 12) in the middle of September...I'll keep a look out for you. Be sure to stay at the Boulder Mountain Lodge if you can get a reservation and eat at the Hell's Backbone Grill at the Lodge. Southern Utah is just an amazing place.
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Marc,
As a lifelong corporate aviator I have flown into Vegas several dozen times for company trade shows.
Vegas is a great staging point but many hundreds of miles and weeks of time required.
Here is a short list of many of the places that are a must see and how I got to them.
You might want to plan one big circle to hit as many of them as you can.
West out of Vegas to Death Valley then over the mountains to 395.
North on 395 to Bishop ,Lee Vining and then Monolake.
West over the Sierras to Yosemite.
Southeast from Vegas down to route 66. East to Williams then north to the Grand Canyon.
Northeast to Page and Antelop Canyon. East a few more miles to Monument Valley.
Northeast out of Vegas on Route 15 to Zion and Bryce Canyons. If time permits further northeast to Moab.
A month is needed to hit all these spots.
Have a great trip.
Ps. After reading my post all the north,south,east and west directions look a little out of place.
Only another pilot would understand. :)
When my wife and I are on one of these road trips she often asks me why I spend so much time looking at the skyline and the ridges. I just tell her position awareness. She knows what that means.
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Would there be a better place to start from? I've got friends to see in Colorado Springs and Ojai California. Since I have no schedule if a place is magical I'll spend more than a few days. I'm an east coast boy so It's kind of a dream trip for me never been to these National Parks ...ever. Marc
That's tough to say...I would suggest either flying into Los Vegas and generally going East or Denver and generally going West. If you want to hit Colorado as well, I suggest planning on driving an US 70 which is the best US Interstate highway in the US. There are lots of places to hit in Colorado including Leadville (Google it), Independence Pass, Durango and US 550 as well as US 50 both East & West. 550 is called the million $ highway. There's also Mesa Verde west of Durango and on the way to Monument Valley.
Most of Utah sucks except along US 12 generally between Red Rock Canyon/Bryce and Moab/Canyon Lands (which could be worth a long visit–I've never had the chance).
I agree with the fact that distances are deceiving...while the trip between Bryce and Moab doesn't look long as the crow flies, there's a ton of stuff to stop and see/shoot along the way. In many cases, waiting till near dark will mean no room in the inn. There's not always a place to stay and you may end up catching Zzzz's in the car because you stopped too late to get a place to sleep. Also note that gas stations can be few and far between and close early (meaning not open 24/day) unless you are along an Interstate...
Be sure to get good maps and a GPS and don't blindly trust the GPS...out west GPS locations and directions are notoriously sub-optimal...
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Ps. After reading my post all the north,south,east and west directions look a little out of place.
Only another pilot would understand. :).
"Roger left 280, 250 Kts" :)
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Thanks for the advice, one more question. I'll be starting the trip early September and finishing up the end of September. Would I be better off making the trip counter clockwise ( AZ, NM, CO, UT) or clockwise (UT, CO, NM, AZ)? Weather, summer to fall seasonal change, lighting considerations.
Thanks
Marc
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I have no idea about any other consideration, but here would be my concern: what would I want to leave as the last stop? If everything goes according to plan, it really would not matter. But any unexpected snag, delay, change of plans, etc. could lead to not having enough days left for the last stop. So, do I want to miss (or spend less than planned in) Grand Canyon (AZ) or Zion (UT)? My personal choice would be to have enough time for GC, and miss (or shorten) Zion. You or others might disagree, but that would be my concern.
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Also foot wear and clothing? I'm not going to be going on long hikes more working out of my car and short hikes to get a good shot (just finished hernia surgery which will be healed well before Sept but I still need to minimize activities that are too strenuous) In Hawaii there are no poisonous critters so I've preferred Merrel hiking sneakers and shorts, but I'm thinking a good pair of hiking boots would be appropriate and jeans?
Marc
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If you are staying on established trails and not carrying much weight, a sturdy pair of walking shoes with good arch support should be about all you need. Get a few weeks of wear on them before you go. If you get a sturdy hiking boot, get them fitted by someone that knows what they are doing. And then live in them. Get good, thick, hiking socks when you do the fitting.
i usually wear hiking shorts with zip on legs. Jeans will just leave you cold and wet especially in a transition season like September in the mountains. A goretex jacket is really nice to keep from getting soaked with the occasional shower/snow. Wool works as well.
Check out the park pages on critters if you want information about snakes. Talk to the rangers. Just don't go sticking your hands into crevices or under things. Try not to walk through log or brush piles. Most will try to get away unless you corner or surprise them.
http://www.azgfd.gov/w_c/documents/LWVR.pdf
Think in terms of elevation as well for your routing. 500-1000 feet elevation can mean a different micro-climate.
There are a couple REI stores around Las Vegas. Recommended if you need anything outdoor activity related at the last minute.
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If you are staying on established trails and not carrying much weight, a sturdy pair of walking shoes with good arch support should be about all you need. Get a few weeks of wear on them before you go. If you get a sturdy hiking boot, get them fitted by someone that knows what they are doing. And then live in them. Get good, thick, hiking socks when you do the fitting.
i usually wear hiking shorts with zip on legs. Jeans will just leave you cold and wet especially in a transition season like September in the mountains. A goretex jacket is really nice to keep from getting soaked with the occasional shower/snow. Wool works as well.
Check out the park pages on critters if you want information about snakes. Talk to the rangers. Just don't go sticking your hands into crevices or under things. Try not to walk through log or brush piles. Most will try to get away unless you corner or surprise them.
http://www.azgfd.gov/w_c/documents/LWVR.pdf
Think in terms of elevation as well for your routing. 500-1000 feet elevation can mean a different micro-climate.
There are a couple REI stores around Las Vegas. Recommended if you need anything outdoor activity related at the last minute.
I agree, a good pair of trail hikers is more than enough. In September, at higher elevation, mornings can get chilly. A light insulating vest or jacket is handy.
I think that you can get everything you'll need and good suggestions at the different REI stores in LV.
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I'm coming in late to the party, but given I love this area of the states, I'll chime in with my thoughts, which likely will mirror some of what you've read already.
First off - I personally don't have a problem with going to "iconic" sites that have been "over-photographed" - there's usually a reason those places are iconic, and there's nothing wrong with getting your own version of them, and then, should you have time and another chance at the area in the future, venturing further off the beaten path to discover some less-shot areas. I sometimes find that by going "contrarian" with lens selection at the popular places, I get some different shots (example: I like to shoot longer glass at the sand dunes and at Bryce, whereas most people bring super wides).
Basically, if I could have only one trip to the Southwest in general, I'd want to do:
My "Don't Miss" list would be:
- Sunrise at Dead Horse Point State Park (near Canyonlands)
- Sunrise at Mesa Arch in Canyonlands (be there EARLY, claim your spot, you won't be alone, and it's tight)
- Sunrise and Sunset (both) at the Sand Dunes in Death Valley (tips: park closer to stovepipe wells on the side of road, don't park at the "parking lot" area, and for gods sake, bring water and gatorade like you don't even know, even for a short mile into the dunes - this place can get brutal)
- Sunrise at Zabriske Point in Death Valley, even though it's been done a lot. Still knocks me out every time, and I'm on my 8th visit later this year myself.
- Opening couple hours in the AM at Lower Antelope Canyon near Page on the photographers pass. (I'd skip Upper Antelope entirely, but that's just me)
- Sunrise at Point Imperial at the Grand Canyon North Rim (I'd skip the South Rim entirely, but that's just me)
And then the rest would be:
- Sunset at the Cape Royale overlook at the Grand Canyon North Rim
- Sunrise at Bryce Point at Bryce Canyon (be there EARLY, expect massive crowds from the early arriving tour bus - still, worth seeing before you die)
- Sunrise at the Windows section of Arches NP
- 11:15am give or take at Horseshoe Bend overlook, also near Page. Watch the freaking edge - no guardrail, long, long way down.
- The major overlooks of Canyonlands in the early pre-sunset evening hours
- Sunset and post sunset at the Badwater salt flats in Death Valley (see my earlier comment about water, water, and more water, and then more water)
- The rimrocks hoodoo's area between Page and Kanab, off 89. A short (.8 mile one way) to the hoodoo's, glorious late afternoon / early evening light on the couple formations there - actually one of my favorite areas to just work and relax, without horrible crowds. Bring GPS as you can get tangled up finding your way out if you're not paying attention.
- A run through Zion both in the early and late hours.
- The run on hwy 12 near Boulder and Escalante, UT
- A stop by Jacob Lake Inn on the way into the North Rim, just because the place is cool. Okay, I'll fess up. It's because they have really good, and really big, cookies. (Be advised it's 1-2 hours from there to any of the big viewpoints, but it's a nice place if you don't mind the travel distance)
I'll echo what others have said about distance, I-70 (truly magnificent piece of interstate from where 191 hits it from Arches to where it terminates at I-15 to the west - some amazing scenery for sure), and being careful where you stick your hands regarding snakes and other critters.
I'll also say that by far the biggest piece of advice is this: WATER and emergency supplies. I had a breakdown earlier this year out that way, and even being just a short distance from Vegas, it took nearly four hours to get a tow truck to get me back to the rental car facility and get another car. It was well into the 100's, and that was a long, hot wait. If you're in this scenario somewhere remote (say, Death Valley) without cell signal, you better damn well have at least a days worth of water and some food to keep you going, or you might be beef jerky for the buzzards by the morning. Particularly in Death Valley, water is key and critical - that park is NO JOKE when it comes to heat and potential danger. I'd advise buying at least 12 liters of water right off the bat at the nearest convenience mart as you leave the rental car facility at McCarran (or wherever you're flying into).
Also be SURE to check in with the ranger stations for road conditions. The Kanab, UT BLM office is particularly nice - and right off the main road in Kanab, and worth stopping by if you're in that neck of the woods. (There's also a good barbershop a block or so away if you need such service). The roads vary a lot - a dirt track that is fine one month can be brutal the next. When I was in the area in May, Cottonwood Canyon road was said to be brutally impassable, but the word I heard was by June it was better again. And of course, don't even remotely think about the slot canyons if there is any flash flood danger.
Lodging wise: I like the Quality Inn in Cedar City, Ruby's in Bryce, the Sleep Inn in Moab, the Quality Inn in Page, and your pick of casino's in Vegas :)
-m
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I'm coming in late to the party, but given I love this area of the states, I'll chime in with my thoughts, which likely will mirror some of what you've read already.
First off - I personally don't have a problem with going to "iconic" sites that have been "over-photographed" - there's usually a reason those places are iconic, and there's nothing wrong with getting your own version of them, and then, should you have time and another chance at the area in the future, venturing further off the beaten path to discover some less-shot areas. I sometimes find that by going "contrarian" with lens selection at the popular places, I get some different shots (example: I like to shoot longer glass at the sand dunes and at Bryce, whereas most people bring super wides).
Basically, if I could have only one trip to the Southwest in general, I'd want to do:
My "Don't Miss" list would be:
- Sunrise at Dead Horse Point State Park (near Canyonlands)
- Sunrise at Mesa Arch in Canyonlands (be there EARLY, claim your spot, you won't be alone, and it's tight)
- Sunrise and Sunset (both) at the Sand Dunes in Death Valley (tips: park closer to stovepipe wells on the side of road, don't park at the "parking lot" area, and for gods sake, bring water and gatorade like you don't even know, even for a short mile into the dunes - this place can get brutal)
- Sunrise at Zabriske Point in Death Valley, even though it's been done a lot. Still knocks me out every time, and I'm on my 8th visit later this year myself.
- Opening couple hours in the AM at Lower Antelope Canyon near Page on the photographers pass. (I'd skip Upper Antelope entirely, but that's just me)
- Sunrise at Point Imperial at the Grand Canyon North Rim (I'd skip the South Rim entirely, but that's just me)
And then the rest would be:
- Sunset at the Cape Royale overlook at the Grand Canyon North Rim
- Sunrise at Bryce Point at Bryce Canyon (be there EARLY, expect massive crowds from the early arriving tour bus - still, worth seeing before you die)
- Sunrise at the Windows section of Arches NP
- 11:15am give or take at Horseshoe Bend overlook, also near Page. Watch the freaking edge - no guardrail, long, long way down.
- The major overlooks of Canyonlands in the early pre-sunset evening hours
- Sunset and post sunset at the Badwater salt flats in Death Valley (see my earlier comment about water, water, and more water, and then more water)
- The rimrocks hoodoo's area between Page and Kanab, off 89. A short (.8 mile one way) to the hoodoo's, glorious late afternoon / early evening light on the couple formations there - actually one of my favorite areas to just work and relax, without horrible crowds. Bring GPS as you can get tangled up finding your way out if you're not paying attention.
- A run through Zion both in the early and late hours.
- The run on hwy 12 near Boulder and Escalante, UT
- A stop by Jacob Lake Inn on the way into the North Rim, just because the place is cool. Okay, I'll fess up. It's because they have really good, and really big, cookies. (Be advised it's 1-2 hours from there to any of the big viewpoints, but it's a nice place if you don't mind the travel distance)
I'll echo what others have said about distance, I-70 (truly magnificent piece of interstate from where 191 hits it from Arches to where it terminates at I-15 to the west - some amazing scenery for sure), and being careful where you stick your hands regarding snakes and other critters.
I'll also say that by far the biggest piece of advice is this: WATER and emergency supplies. I had a breakdown earlier this year out that way, and even being just a short distance from Vegas, it took nearly four hours to get a tow truck to get me back to the rental car facility and get another car. It was well into the 100's, and that was a long, hot wait. If you're in this scenario somewhere remote (say, Death Valley) without cell signal, you better damn well have at least a days worth of water and some food to keep you going, or you might be beef jerky for the buzzards by the morning. Particularly in Death Valley, water is key and critical - that park is NO JOKE when it comes to heat and potential danger. I'd advise buying at least 12 liters of water right off the bat at the nearest convenience mart as you leave the rental car facility at McCarran (or wherever you're flying into).
Also be SURE to check in with the ranger stations for road conditions. The Kanab, UT BLM office is particularly nice - and right off the main road in Kanab, and worth stopping by if you're in that neck of the woods. (There's also a good barbershop a block or so away if you need such service). The roads vary a lot - a dirt track that is fine one month can be brutal the next. When I was in the area in May, Cottonwood Canyon road was said to be brutally impassable, but the word I heard was by June it was better again. And of course, don't even remotely think about the slot canyons if there is any flash flood danger.
Lodging wise: I like the Quality Inn in Cedar City, Ruby's in Bryce, the Sleep Inn in Moab, the Quality Inn in Page, and your pick of casino's in Vegas :)
-m
Wow!
Thanks
Marc
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A minivan is a better bet than an suv. Add a sleeping bag and you have emergency accommodations. There's nothing like waking up on location.
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Well I've had a few days with Laurent Martres books and an atlas here is what I've come up with so far (clockwise trip)
1. Zion National Park
2. Bryce Canyon
3. Escalante
4. Capitol Reef National Park
5. San Rafael Swell
6. Arches National Park
7. Moab
8. Canyonlands National Park
9. Monument Valley
10. Antelope Canyon
11. Vermilion Cliffs
12. Grand Canyon North Rim
13. Grand Canyon South Rim
14. Havasu Canyon
15. Grand Canyon Sky Walk
16. Hoover Dam
Suggestions recommendations appreciated!
Marc
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Sounds a bit ambitious, even for a month-long trip. It gives you about two days per destination, including trips between. For instance, GC North Rim and GC South Rim are only 10 miles apart "as the crow flies", but 215 miles by car, about five hours drive. This might be ok for typical tourists, i.e. those who get off the bus/car, look into the canyon, aahh and oohh for the first few minutes, have a picture of them taken, board the bus/car and leave. For a photographer, who needs to be there very early in the morning and has only about a half an hour window around sunset, this would be a logistic nightmare. Besides, not every morning/sunset are worthy, so staying a couple of days in one place usually generates more opportunities to catch a better one.
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Sounds a bit ambitious, even for a month-long trip. It gives you about two days per destination, including trips between. For instance, GC North Rim and GC South Rim are only 10 miles apart "as the crow flies", but 215 miles by car, about five hours drive. This might be ok for typical tourists, i.e. those who get off the bus/car, look into the canyon, aahh and oohh for the first few minutes, have a picture of them taken, board the bus/car and leave. For a photographer, who needs to be there very early in the morning and has only about a half an hour window around sunset, this would be a logistic nightmare. Besides, not every morning/sunset are worthy, so staying a couple of days in one place usually generates more opportunities to catch a better one.
I kind of figured I would start out on the circular path as a guide w/o any time table. Take time where I want and if in a month I don't finish the circle come back next year to finish it up? Do you think I might be better off just planing on completing the northern half this trip, allowing me to backtrack areas that I want to revisit?
Marc
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I kind of figured I would start out on the circular path as a guide w/o any time table. Take time where I want and if in a month I don't finish the circle come back next year to finish it up?...
I hate you ;D
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Well I've had a few days with Laurent Martres books and an atlas here is what I've come up with so far (clockwise trip)
1. Zion National Park
2. Bryce Canyon
3. Escalante
4. Capitol Reef National Park
5. San Rafael Swell
6. Arches National Park
7. Moab
8. Canyonlands National Park
9. Monument Valley
10. Antelope Canyon
11. Vermilion Cliffs
12. Grand Canyon North Rim
13. Grand Canyon South Rim
14. Havasu Canyon
15. Grand Canyon Sky Walk
16. Hoover Dam
Suggestions recommendations appreciated!
Marc
Couple of thoughts:
a) Skip 11 - instead, from Page, heading to the N. Rim, take 89 to Kanab, and stop at the Rimrock Hoodoo's along the way for early evening light - you'll only be 45 minutes or so out of Kanab, and a few hours from the North Rim. Vastly more interesting, IMO, than the Vermillion Cliffs.
b) If you want to add someplace I hear is really neat, from Vegas, drive up to Cedar City, the head across the hill on hwy 14, stopping at Cedar Breaks National Monument at the top, then continue down over to 89 and your choice of Bryce or Zion - as a start. I wasn't able to get here on my last trip since 14 was closed, but everyone has told me this is a "don't skip this even if you're doing Bryce" place.
I also forgot to add that the drive from where hwy 128 meets at 191 in Moab (right before the entrance to Arches - it's in the books) and then north out to the Fisher Towers area (and slightly beyond) is magical in the early evening light. You won't believe the reds the rock gets there when the sun gets low. Clip-your-red-channel-city. There's also the lasal mountain loop drive, which starts from around there, which I haven't done yet.
-m
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Cedar Breaks is really worth the stop. The colors are vivid at sunset.
There are some nice easy hikes that get you to great views.
When you drive from the North Rim to the South Rim stop at Navajo Bridge. If you're lucky, you'll get up close to the California Condor. I got a good view but no photo of one when we were there. The ranger told us that the birds like to hang out near the bridge.
I think the bottom line for this part of the US is that you can't go too far wrong no matter where you go.
Les
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Since you are committed to photography, you will need to prioritize your list. You can't do it all. The problem is that even clutching Martres in your teeth, you are not going to find the better places to set up your camera on your first try. Some of these places are really big. In the dark, before dawn, you won't have a chance. This means you either have to do a lot of scouting prior to your shoot or hire an experienced photographer-guide.
A place like Mesa Arch can be done easily: You drive into the parking lot before dawn and follow the path up and over the hill, down the cliff till you approach the canyon and the Arch. There may be 30 or 40 others there, too. Don't let that stop you. Even without a camera, sunrise at Mesa Arch is a thrill. Even if you are alone, it is not evident where best to set your camera on your first visit.
A place like the Windows section of Arches is very confusing to first timers. Where to set up? Can you really climb up there safely? In the dark? Get the idea?
The Moab area is vast, with many really great spots to shoot. You should consider a photographer guide if you can afford it. Someone like Jon Fuller knows when and where. Especially in a rented SUV, you don't want to be traveling in the dark on some of the dirt roads (ruts) that lead to the best spots. You won't even know when you pass the spot you are looking for. And some of the lesser known but exceptional spots require off road travel in the dark.
If I were you, I would cut my list back to concentrate on the most popular areas: Zion (3 days), Bryce (2 days), Moab (10 days), Monument Valley (2 days), South Rim of the Grand Canyon (5 days). They are most popular for a reason. They also lend themselves to the less fit photographer. A short walk, often on a well defined path, gets you to the sight. Don't worry that it is an icon, already done a billion times; everyday is different, different lighting, whether, time of day, etc. You will have a blast. You could then fill in your time with some of the other spots on your list.
Rte 12 between Bryce Canyon and Capital Reef is arguably the most scenic road in the US. There are many photogenic dirt roads state parks, and National Monuments (Kodachrome Basin). In September you may get the Aspen in full color near Calf Creek State Park ( and a 2-3 hour round trip hike to the falls would be good too.)
Moab deserves special attention. Less famous among us Americans than, say, the Grand Canyon, it deserves to be better known. You have already read in Martres about the variety of landscapes, the petroglyphs and pictographs, Fisher Towers, the Colorado River, etc. Pay special attention to Dead Horse Point State Park, just 15 miles out of Moab. It is made for you, an older gentleman :-) traveling alone. It is easy to get to thrilling overlooks, but they are not right off the paved paths. You have to do your homework and spend a couple of hours walking along the edge of the Canyon, so you know where you want to be for sunrise.
Just a few miles from DHP is the entrance to the Island In the Sky area of Canyon Lands. Among the points not to miss are Mesa Arch, the Green River Overlook, etc. I already mentioned sunrise at Mesa Arch but generally you need only walk around these areas to be rewarded by fantastic photo ops, but you can't expect to drive up and have a successful shoot without considerable preparation.
There are many examples of Indian petroglyphs and pictographs that are accessible. Many are easy to find and some of those have been vandalized; others are known to the local photo-guides.
Monument Valley is special, too. The home of Navajo Indians, only a small portion is accessible without a guide.
Have a great time and PM me if you need specific info.
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i totally second nma's suggestions except I think that you can cut days in Moab and at the South Rim. You can always return if you want more photos of those locations. I think that the travel portfolio needs more variety of scenery and color.
Even if a month seems a long time, it really is not with the itinerary you have built for yourself. The extraordinary places will (hopefully) still be around for the second trip you talked about...since you have the option of another trip then...
why don't you choose an area and do it comfortably and with a more certain success in photography! I have a second home in Sedona and use it a "a Base" and travel extensively throughout the Southwest-- even so, having returned last night from a 4 day trip to the Page area-- there were no hotels available, many roads (Cottonwood) closed and so forth and so on. Rain at sunset so one needs to wait another day...You can book in advance a hotel but maybe you are enthralled in an area which you don';t want to leave to get to the hotel you booked...
i would cut the trip in half at best. Look through Laurent's books, and the internet and decide on which are THE most important sites for you. Give yourself several days in an area-- and I mean several. in Page alone two weeks would not be enough for the variety you would want to photograph even without walking a lot.
I recommend highly Jackson Bridges from Overland Tours to take you to specific places in that area-- Alstrom Point (by jeep, no walking), Canyon X etc etc (928)608 4072
for Monument Valley Daniel Chee of Daniel's Guided Tours (435)7273227 and danielsguidedtours@gmail.com
When in the Monument Valley area don't miss Muley Point for sunrise or sunset. (sunrise is better) the place is extraordinary and has infinite photographic opportunities without much walking and that Moki Dugway also has great photo opportunities at the right time.
There are also a lot of less traveled places in between that you can visit and do not require walking-- Coal Mine Canyon off Tuba City, Coral Pink Sand Dunes between Bryce and Kanab etc
I totally agree with the comments about scouting a location-- that is the real deal, an absolute necessity, as otherwise you won't get the feel of the place, least of all take a great photograph. I've been to the Fisher Towers ten times at least and still want that great photo of the reflection in the river... The fact is that he weather does not always help you get what you want-- plus the distances are huge.
What I personally love the most in the Southwest is to contemplate the beauty and magic of the places. Nothing beats that. If you are rushed, you might miss it...
if you want the great photos you really need to wait for the light, sunrise and sunset and scouting in between. The rest of the day is not suitable for photography except taking a photo to remind you of somewhere you want to return to. The light is too harsh and everything looks washed out.
on a second trip you can potentially do Route 12, the Escalante, Capitol Reef National Park (Amazing place)The Burr Trail, Goblin Valley, Rafael Swell etc , and continue to Colorado. Just a suggestion.
Another comment which relates to my first about Moab and the South Rim-- I would include Page in your first trip itinerary because if you concentrate a lot on Moab and Monument Valley, the photos will end up being rather heavy on Red Rocks! Page will give you as much variety as you would want, water, Antelope, Toadstools, etc etc.... Horseshoe Bend is not a long walk-- just lighten up on the equipment. I would include Zion and Bryce for the same reason. That way you have a diverse portfolio.
Just my two cents....
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Laurent Martres "Photographing the Southwest" book is an excellent resource. Some other good resources/guides to photographing the southwest include:
John Annerino's The Photographer's Guide to Canyon Country (http://www.amazon.com/The-Photographers-Guide-Canyon-Country/dp/088150663X)
Robert Hitchman's Photograph America newsletters - The Southwest Collection (http://shop.photographamerica.com/category-s/44.htm)
iFotoGuide - Grand Canyon (http://itunes.apple.com/us/app/ifotoguide-grand-canyon/id383014016?mt=8) (for iPhone users)
And, my own e-book, The Essential Guide to Photographing Arches National Park (http://www.naturescapes.net/store/the-essential-guide-to-photographing-arches-national-park-ebook-by-bret-edge.html)
Good luck, and have a great trip!
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Between Brice and Moab is it better to take Rts 12 & 24 or Hwy 70?
Thanks
Marc
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Between Brice and Moab is it better to take Rts 12 & 24 or Hwy 70?
Thanks
Marc
Marc,
Rte 12 traverses the Grand Staircase Escalante. It is arguably the most scenic highway in the USA. Don't miss it.
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Rt 12 it is!
Another question on lenses...................
My Landscape "kit" is as follows:
for wide FOV; IQ180/WRS and 40mm, 70mm T/S and 105mm T/S Rodenstock HR's
primarily for narrow FOV on a tripod but sometimes for long hikes, dusty conditions, casual shots; D800E with?
1. Normal zoom either Leica 28-90 (highest IQ) or Tamron 24-70 (stabilized) very good IQ
2. Long zoom eithe Leica 180 3.4 and 280 4.0 (highest IQ) or Nikkor 70-200 VR and 1.7x (stabilized) very good IQ
which would you take the Highest IQ lenses that require a tripod or the stabilized lenses for those instances where your hand held, wildlife etc?
Thanks
Marc
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Oh and who would be a good tour company for Monument valley / North coyote buttes?
Marc
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Rt 12 it is! ...
which would you take the Highest IQ lenses that require a tripod or the stabilized lenses for those instances where your hand held, wildlife etc?
You won't be disappointed in US 12. The piece just E of Escalante is worth the price of admission alone.
Conspicuous by its absence from the list is the Waterpocket Fold, accessed by the Burr Trail Road, off US 12 just south of Boulder, UT. The Burr Trail Road is paved for quite a distance now, and the switchbacks just before entering the Waterpocket Fold are as much fun as the Moki Dugway. A few hours invested in this bit of highway will provide good returns. The road turns to gravel (albeit excellent surface) after the switchbacks and continuing north up the WPF, allows entry to Capitol Reef NP through some very unique and interesting locations.
As for hand-held wildlife lenses, I don't think you'll see much wildlife other than birds. I certainly haven't, but I'm usually there in Spring. I'd concentrate on landscape hardware.
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Hi
if you look above on the thread I gave you a name for a tour guide company in Monument Valley. I've been using them for over 25 years.
www.danielsguidedtours.com
danielsguidedtours@gmail.com
435 727 3227
You need to specify with all the tour companies that you are a photographer and need a certain schedule (very early for sunrise or sunset tours etc.)
For North Coyote Buttes there is a lottery system (you are too late for that) but you could try the lottery in person in Kanab. You may get lucky. However it's quite a long trek and you mentioned you did not want to do that.
You can try for tickets for the Coyote Buttes South (check availability online, as they are often available). You probably need a guide to get into the area because of the road issues---but after that, it is only a 20 minute walk to get into the general area-- then you need to explore. That would be the name of the guide I gave you for the Page area. Jackson Bridges at Overland Tours.
To photograph Route 12 you have to scout the area and decide what to photograph. Calf Creek Falls are gorgeous but a hike... Devil's Garden is easy to access off Hole in the Rock Road. No issue with that. I would recommend having reserved accomodations are there are few and tend to be booked at that time of the year. Escalante and Cannonville have a few places as also Torrey which is already in Capitol Reef. Boulder Mountain is gorgeous if the aspens are turning at the time you are there. The Burr Trail and the entire area of Capitol Reef is spectacular. Cathedral Valley etc. Get a good map at the Visitor's Center as roads are poorly marked. Also ask if the washes are passable.
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Oh forgot to mention that undoubtedly Route 12 and then 24-- off 24 you have Goblin Valley... not too much walking to pjhotograph that either.
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Hi Marc:
If you’re still watching this thread, I have some additional comments:
If you’re stopping at Goblin Valley, you’re only 6 miles away from Little Wild Horse Canyon. It’s in Martres book, worth a quick visit.
Hotels tend to fill up early, especially the park lodges. If you’re winging it for maximum flexibility, call ahead once you decide where your next stop will be.
If you have pollen allergies, bring your medication. Pharmacies are few and far between. I’m not sure how bad allergies will be in September, but in May, my allergies were much worse than back home (central Canada).
The air is very dry. Bring some good hand cream and use it liberally. The skin around my fingernails started to crack and bleed after the first week. Lip balm is also good to bring.
If you’re planning on some hikes in Bryce, don’t underestimate how strenuous a hike at 9000 ft elevation can be.
Protect your gear from the dust and particulates in the air. The worst we encountered was at Monument Valley; and especially in Upper Antelope Canyon where the morons were throwing dust up in the air to enhance the light beams. After our visit to the upper canyon, the zoom ring in my unprotected lens jammed up because of the fine sand grains that got into the mechanism.
In 2008, we were able to visit the lower canyon on our own; I’m not sure if that’s still the case.
It’s very easy to navigate this route. A GPS is nice but not necessary as long as you stay on the main roads between the parks and the towns. However, if you go onto the gravel roads, the dashboard GPS units are almost completely useless because they won’t show these roads. We brought topo maps and a compass. An off-road GPS unit with pre-loaded topo maps would also work, although, I would bring along the maps and compass as well. Batteries run down and electronic gizmos can fail.
Have a great trip.
regards
Santo
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Marc,
I think the West Mitten shadow falls on the East Mitten at sunset near mid month. That's pretty spectacular. Colorado Aspen color occurs mid to late September but be aware of snow if you don't have all wheel or 4 wheel drive; and it will be cold at night.
New Moon is Sept. 16th, so if you like star trails and are in the boonies, you can get some interesting images of stars and arches or spires most of the week before and after new moon.
Good luck,
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Marc,
I think the West Mitten shadow falls on the East Mitten at sunset near mid month. That's pretty spectacular. Colorado Aspen color occurs mid to late September but be aware of snow if you don't have all wheel or 4 wheel drive; and it will be cold at night.
New Moon is Sept. 16th, so if you like star trails and are in the boonies, you can get some interesting images of stars and arches or spires most of the week before and after new moon.
Good luck,
The West Mitten shadow falls on the East Mitten on Sept 12 this year.
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Thanks
I'm off in a week, starting to get ready for the journey!
Marc
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Thanks
I'm off in a week, starting to get ready for the journey!
Marc
Marc,
Keep us posted on your "adventure"!
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Marc,
Keep us posted on your "adventure"!
I will!
Marc
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Well the fun has begun!
Arrived in Vegas Saturday midnight, up at 6:30 Renta-car by 7:30 (Jeep Liberty 4x4)
drove to Kanab stopped for some shooting along the side of the road, sunset at Coral pink sand dunes, sunrise at Zion!
Pictures to follow.
Marc
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Well the fun has begun!
Arrived in Vegas Saturday midnight, up at 6:30 Renta-car by 7:30 (Jeep Liberty 4x4)
drove to Kanab stopped for some shooting along the side of the road, sunset at Coral pink sand dunes, sunrise at Zion!
Pictures to follow.
Marc
Thanks for the news...
How was Coral Pink sand dunes? Last Time I was there, the whole area was completely covered by buggy tracks…
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Thanks for the news...
How was Coral Pink sand dunes? Last Time I was there, the whole area was completely covered by buggy tracks…
Too many tracks :(
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Eye candy everywhere! :)
Marc
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Sorry to piggyback on this thread but it has been invaluable to me as I'm planning a three week trip at the end of September. I'm curious if anyone can recommend some longer day hikes and maybe 1 or 2 overnight treks?
I'm not entirely sold on bringing my ultralight camping gear as ultralight is really code word for ultra uncomfortable. :D So I'm not sure if I'll do anything longer than a long day hike unless the payoff is huge. My 1 man tent is 6'1" in length and I'm 6'3". I call it the coffin. I plan to camp most of the time. Also probably won't have a 4x4 so trail access should be from reasonable roads.
I'm hoping this will be more or less an annual type of trip (though probably shorter in duration) so I'm not too worried about trying to pack it all in. Also glad I don't have to worry about coming back to my tent and finding a porcupine in it. Though curious about any critters to keep an eye out for. Word to the wise, always zip your tent up when leaving it unattended. How do you get a porcupine out of your tent? Very carefully!
Not a lot planned so far but a few things I've settled on
-Angel's Landing <- I'll do this more than once if I don't get a good shot.
-Virgin Narrows
-Coral Pink Sand Dunes <- though maybe this isn't ideal?
-False Kiva
I'm tenatively thinking of spending about 5 to 7 days in Zion or longer. I don't mind revisiting a site more than once if the weather isn't agreeable.
Other than Zion, Dead Horse Point State Park and Canyonlands seem intriguing to me. For some reason Bryce doesn't hold much appeal to me.
I think I'll skip Death Valley and the Grand Canyon this go around. I'd love to do Death Valley but I'm guessing the heat will still be unbearable. Being a mountain guy I wilt under the heat.
I'd probably like to explore some slot canyons though I think I'll skip Antelope.
Marc I'm really interested in hearing your experiences along the way.
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Not a lot planned so far but a few things I've settled on
-Angel's Landing <- I'll do this more than once if I don't get a good shot.
-Virgin Narrows
-Coral Pink Sand Dunes <- though maybe this isn't ideal?
-False Kiva
I'm tenatively thinking of spending about 5 to 7 days in Zion or longer. I don't mind revisiting a site more than once if the weather isn't agreeable.
Other than Zion, Dead Horse Point State Park and Canyonlands seem intriguing to me. For some reason Bryce doesn't hold much appeal to me.
False Kiva is one of the most magical places I have ever been to. Do be respectful of the cordoned off areas though. With any luck you'll have the place to yourself.
If you are going to Zion, the Subway is supposed to be awesome, and would qualify as a long day hike. You'll need a permit. I haven't done this hike myself yet - last year on the day I had scheduled for the hike the weather was really crappy and I opted out.
I think in September you will be required to take the bus out to the the Narrows in Zion, not your personal vehicle; that may affect your hiking logistics.
If you are going from Zion to Canyonlands I'd suggest going via Rt 12 and Rt 24. The drive along Rt 12 is great, and there are so many locations on 12/24 it would be hard to list them all. I guess you have ruled out Bryce, but it is just a couple of miles off Rt 12; to me it would be a shame not to pop in for at least a quick look. One nice (< 1/2 day) hike that starts right off Rt 12 past Escalante is Lower Calf Creek Falls. There is lots to explore along Hole in the Rock road just outside Escalante. Capitol Reef National Park is along the way on Rt 24.
If you visit Canyonlands and Dead Horse Point State Park, I think it would be a shame to miss Arches National Park, just about 30 miles away.
If you haven't already, definitely pick up a copy of Laurent Martres "Photographing the Southwest". Volume 1 would cover everything above and much, much more. He gives estimated time required and difficulty rating for many locations.
Bob
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some more
Marc
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Marc,
Thanks for sharing your SW experience… Some really nice images, congrats.
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Not a lot planned so far but a few things I've settled on
-Angel's Landing <- I'll do this more than once if I don't get a good shot.
-Virgin Narrows
-Coral Pink Sand Dunes <- though maybe this isn't ideal?
-False Kiva
Marc I'm really interested in hearing your experiences along the way.
Mike
Don't skip Bryce spend 2 days there
skip Coral Pink Sand Dunes it's just an ATV park unles there was a sand storm and you cn get some "virgin" shots w/o atv tracks
it was easy to rent a 4x4, Jeep Liberty $20/day A Dollar
Marc
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The colors on those last two shots are amazing. I'll probably give Bryce a quick visit at least.
Thanks for the advice Marc.
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The good light at Bryce is only a few minutes just after sunrise so plan accordingly!
Marc
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Spent a couple of days with Bret Edge in Moab, eye candy every where!
Marc
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How were the crowds at Mesa Arch?
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How were the crowds at Mesa Arch?
Sunrise very few people
Marc
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Spent a couple of days with Bret Edge in Moab, eye candy every where!
Marc
Killer photo, Marc! I had a great time showing you a few of my favorite locations around Moab. Looking forward to seeing some more images from the rest of your trip. Safe travels!
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a few more!
Marc
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a few more!
Marc
Gorgeous! I see that you also had very interesting skies…
Keep them coming and good luck.
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I'll be camping in Monument Valley and Canyon de Chelly so I'll be "off the grid" for a while!
Marc
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Very nice! Everyone needs to get to Green River Overlook at least once in their life. :)
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I had to cut my trip short, on my way to Monument Valley I received a phone call from my brother "Mom's in the Hospital" :( so I drove across Colorado and caught a flight to Boston. I'll finish the Northern Arizona portion next year :) Mom's better and back home :)
Marc
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I had to cut my trip short, on my way to Monument Valley I received a phone call from my brother "Mom's in the Hospital" :( so I drove across Colorado and caught a flight to Boston. I'll finish the Northern Arizona portion next year :) Mom's better and back home :)
Marc
I'm sorry to hear about your Mom's heath problem… Yes, the Southwest will still be here next year...
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Next year, try Long Canyon (not very long) in Southern Utah, along the Burr Trail. Good road running right through. It's quite narrow, so there are only a few hours midday when both canyon walls are fully lit. Beautiful reflected light on the canyon face that's in shadow. The high cliff faces have gorgeous desert varnish. It's listed in the Martres book.
Merrill