Luminous Landscape Forum
Raw & Post Processing, Printing => Printing: Printers, Papers and Inks => Topic started by: neile on April 03, 2011, 11:35:35 pm
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This time on engraving stock from a trophy/engraving supply place. Beautiful, clean, sheets of aluminum with no marks or dirt to clean off. Also used the Booksmart Studio profile for the ipf5100 and their steps to turn front feed on for semi-glossy photo paper.
Results? Fantastic.
(http://www.danecreekfolios.com/resource/Windows-Live-Writer-More-Experiments-with-Aluminum_1201B-?fileId=11550129)
More photos and details at http://www.danecreekfolios.com/blog/2011/4/4/more-experiments-with-aluminum.html.
Neil
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That certainly looks impressive! Printing on metallic surfaces would seem to be 90% having the right image.
Back in the day I used to use cheap Deft solved-based wood coating as a sealer for machined aluminum surfaces. The pieces I still have are in good shape. I suspect most any of the solvent based print preservative sprays will level nicely on metallic surfaces. A tin can might make a suitable test object.
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Neil, It looks awesome! I love the look of it.
Now my only problem is that my iPF8300 doesn't have a straight media path. :'(
-Ryan
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Neil,
Looks great, still trying to figure out a way to do a thin enough metal to run through the 8100, or 8300.
Andy
Sun Prairie, WI
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The thinnest aluminum I've found is 0.005" Alumajet pre-coated aluminum from www.horizonsisg.com. Their product brochure says it'll work on a J-path printer (like a top feed on an Epson or Canon), but explicitly says a 180-degree turn will not work (like in the ipf8300).
Neil
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Neil, It looks awesome! I love the look of it.
Now my only problem is that my iPF8300 doesn't have a straight media path. :'(
-Ryan
Ryan,
I notice you're up in Skagit Valley, not that far away from me. If you're ever down around the Snohomish area let me know. You're welcome to stop by and try spitting something out on a sheet of aluminum on my 5100.
Neil
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Neil,
Looks just stunning!
The more you do of this type of work the more you want to try.
I have all these rolls of fine art paper and they just sit in the corner as of late.
Did you get your Inkaid in yet and how does it compare with the first coatings you started with?
I would like to see a product that dries a little faster too. It is the only reason at the moment that I am not selling mine. Although I think I have it figured out with the following process.
The best way to get rid of the dust and debris is to topcoat with varnish, Clearstar or Krylon.
After a good sealer coat or 2 you can then sand with 3M 320 grit trimite,wipe the dust off from sanding and then put a nice heavy topcoat on.
The grit of sandpaper you choose should be light enough so you do not sand through the sealcoat. Another reason 2 coats before sanding is a real good idea.
The imperfections are gone and it is like glass. The Krylon is $3.99 for 12 oz. cans and the Clearstar is $13.00. I guess that tells you which one I use most.
The ink must be absolutly dry,probably 2 days.
Now that you see what goes into the process to get them almost perfect,are you going to market yours?
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There doesn't seem to be any real difference between InkAid and Goldens. Same drying time, same consistency. Thanks for the tip on topcoats. I'll give that a try tonight!
Not sure on the marketing side of things yet. They're awfully labour intensive.
Neil
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Neil, on your blog you talk of applying sprays ....
A professional pneumatic sprayer (DeVilbiss is one brand) would work well for spraying any type coating that you desired, as long as you could purchase it in quarts of gallon (I've never seen Krylon in anything other than spray cans). Spray cans aren't good because they don't apply enough volume. These commercial sprayers are excellent (and they don't cost an arm and a leg).
If you go this route, I'd advise taking your metal prints to a furniture supplier who has a spray booth. A booth is lint free, and there is a HUGE air exchange.
BTW, I LOOOOOVE your iceberg shot. What printer did you use to print on the aluminum?
Do you have a website?
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I have an HPLV sprayer currently (albeit a cheap one, the Wagner, not the fancy Fuji that everyone here loves so much). The issue right now is getting even coats of the base InkAid to prepare the aluminum for printing. I haven't even gotten to the top coats yet, although I'll be trying that tonight based on Dan's suggestions.
Interesting tip on the furniture suppliers. I have a garage that's reasonably ok for spraying, and most importantly doesn't have dog hair in it!
Thanks for the kind words on the print. The website for my photography is www.danecreekphotography.com. Website for the printing side of things is www.danecreekprinting.com. These were printed on a Canon ipf5100.
Neil
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Love the look of the gold colored steel!!
Are you using matte black or photo black inks?
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I'm not sure why you dislike dog hairs in your photos... most of the local painters up here seem to think dog hair is an integral part of any good work of art. At least based on what comes into my store!! ;D
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I assume it's photo black ink as the paper type I'm using is Semi-Glossy Photo Paper.
Neil
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Looks terriffic Niel.
That Aluma Jet product seems to be quite good, and is much simpler than having to do an assortment of pre coatings and just a final sealer coat.
there are also numerous plastics (used in the signage industry) in sheet form, that could also be experimented with.
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I have a sample pack coming from Alumajet to give it a try. Yes, definitely simpler, just have to figure out if the quality is there and I can charge appropriately to make up for the added costs. Of course, labour involved would be less.
Neil
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I'm ordering a sample pack from the following link.
You have to register with them first, before placing your order.
http://customers.horizonsisg.com/Customer/loginrequestresults.asp
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My sample pack arrived last night and their stuff is beautiful. Pristine sheets, beautifully coated, and easy to print on. Use the Booksmart Studio profile and you're all set.
Neil
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The profiles are here: http://www.booksmartstudio.com/products/view/15_booksmart-fine-art-metals/96_icc-profiles/page. Yes, I ordered from Horizons.
A couple of tips:
1) Do not handle the sheets in any way with your bare hands. No matter how careful you are you'll get finger prints on it. Cotton gloves ALWAYS!
2) When the prints are done and have dried a bit apply two very thin coats of a spray varnish like Krylon Crystal Clear (I couldn't find any so I'm using the Rustoleum equivalent).
Neil
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Neile,
I deleted my last post, I couldn't find a way to edit out my errors. (wait, its not edit, its modify)
I didn't see the links you posted earlier. I ordered the 0.012 and 0.02, I was told that the 0.005 thickness is used mostly for labels.
Can't wait to try it out. Here is a link to the price list.
http://customers.horizonsisg.com/design/include/AlumaJet_Commercial_English.pdf
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Yup, that's what I got. The 0.012 is pretty thin but the adhesive back makes it easy to stick it to a piece of matboard when the print is done to add some rigidity.
Neil
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Oooooh I'm jealous, I wish my Z3100 did those!! Gorgeous!!!
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But you can - I printed on aluminium on z3100, works perfectly!!
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one other suggestion... is to first etch the aluminum then print.
i've been doing inkjet printing on aluminum for the past 10 years. and i really like the etched/then printed look.
here's an example.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/alldredge/sets/72157624455497140/show/
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Interesting. What do you use to do the etching?
Neil
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Ok, Alan... I HAVE to ask.. how do you do it?
I hit your link and was astounded with your stuff!!
How thick is the sheet of alum and how deep is the etching and of course, how do you etch it in the first place?
This will go thru a 9900?
Do you coat them after printing?
So many questions...
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Not an easy task! Correct me if I'm wrong but...
I believe the etching process as seen in the samples would require either a photochemical resist applied first, then
'exposed and developed' to expose the substrate, or a printed resist, (possibly done in stages), acid etched, cleaned,and subsequently printed.
Wonderful work Alan !!!!
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some if it is proprietary. but can be done in many different ways. i have a mimaki 160sp and have developed an ink that i can print directly to the aluminum as a resist. resists come in all sizes. as far as etching, good old hydrogen peroxide and hyrdrochloric acid. i hope to some day build a giant electrolytic system. you can go through a lot of acid etching large sheets.
yes on the will thick aluminum fit in an epson. actually i just raised my heads to 4mm (2.38mm max printable because of the pinch rollers). no coating because it's solvent. although waterbased with coating looks much better. so not missing much on the solvent ink.