Luminous Landscape Forum
Raw & Post Processing, Printing => Other Raw Converters => Apple Aperture Q&A => Topic started by: jamesmd on July 08, 2009, 09:38:45 am
-
Hi all , I'm new to the forum. I think its the best for Aperture users .
I have some questions about Aperture .
How do you find duplicates and after delete them ?
What is your normal setting for Boost ? After some years now using aperture I find its better using the lower setting possible, you get much more detail in highlights. Is this correct ? Now I have Sony A900 .
Cheers
James
-
Hi James -
I'm not sure what you expect for duplicates - Aperture will not import duplicates (based on their file name I assume) if you tell it not to, but it doesn't have any way to do some kind of artificial intelligence duplicate search.
One solution is to use the list view in the browser, and try order by date, or by shooting date, or other - then, you may be able to identify duplicates adjacent to each other in the list.
For Boost, it really is up to you. I tend to leave it at default, except when I have a very contrasty image, or a serious highlight recovery issue. Then I wind it back quite a way. But I don't have an A900 (in my dreams...) and so I can't offer much specific help there. There's no rules really. Boost is just one of the tools you have to interpret the RAW data to your liking.
David
Hi all , I'm new to the forum. I think its the best for Aperture users .
I have some questions about Aperture .
How do you find duplicates and after delete them ?
What is your normal setting for Boost ? After some years now using aperture I find its better using the lower setting possible, you get much more detail in highlights. Is this correct ? Now I have Sony A900 .
Cheers
James
-
Hi James -
I'm not sure what you expect for duplicates - Aperture will not import duplicates (based on their file name I assume) if you tell it not to, but it doesn't have any way to do some kind of artificial intelligence duplicate search.
One solution is to use the list view in the browser, and try order by date, or by shooting date, or other - then, you may be able to identify duplicates adjacent to each other in the list.
For Boost, it really is up to you. I tend to leave it at default, except when I have a very contrasty image, or a serious highlight recovery issue. Then I wind it back quite a way. But I don't have an A900 (in my dreams...) and so I can't offer much specific help there. There's no rules really. Boost is just one of the tools you have to interpret the RAW data to your liking.
David
Hi David , the thing is ,a lot of pics that came from Iphoto are duplicated or triplicated sometimes , and there are quite a few , and I've never found the way to do it fast .
And Boost I now always use at 0% , have a go , then go for levels , etc etc you might find better results , as you have control over every thing , the other way you are working on a precontrast setting you might not need.
Let me know what you think , if you don't mind of course .
Cheers
James
-
Hi David , the thing is ,a lot of pics that came from Iphoto are duplicated or triplicated sometimes , and there are quite a few , and I've never found the way to do it fast .
And Boost I now always use at 0% , have a go , then go for levels , etc etc you might find better results , as you have control over every thing , the other way you are working on a precontrast setting you might not need.
Let me know what you think , if you don't mind of course .
Cheers
James
I'm really not sure how to deal with the duplicates issue other than the fairly tedious list view approach.. I recall that iView had a "find duplicates" function, but I don't know what algorithm it used.
For the boost issue, I think that the default setting is effectively part of the Apple default profile for the camera model. Reducing it to zero, would, I think, actually inhibit rather than expend your later control. But certainly in the case of a very contrasty image, it is often very useful to back it off quite a lot.
-
I'm really not sure how to deal with the duplicates issue other than the fairly tedious list view approach.. I recall that iView had a "find duplicates" function, but I don't know what algorithm it used.
For the boost issue, I think that the default setting is effectively part of the Apple default profile for the camera model. Reducing it to zero, would, I think, actually inhibit rather than expend your later control. But certainly in the case of a very contrasty image, it is often very useful to back it off quite a lot.
I'm not a big Aperture user, but I'm pretty sure you could write an Applescript to find the duplicate and delete them.
I just did a quickie search and found this. (http://www.macosxhints.com/article.php?story=20071222002718187)
-
Try TidyUp! http://www.hyperbolicsoftware.com/TidyUp.html (http://www.hyperbolicsoftware.com/TidyUp.html)
Very strange interface and documentation, but has the ability to look inside Aperture for duplicates.
-
thanks , I'll give it a try
cheers
james
Try TidyUp! http://www.hyperbolicsoftware.com/TidyUp.html (http://www.hyperbolicsoftware.com/TidyUp.html)
Very strange interface and documentation, but has the ability to look inside Aperture for duplicates.
-
Thanks , it looks great !!!
Try TidyUp! http://www.hyperbolicsoftware.com/TidyUp.html (http://www.hyperbolicsoftware.com/TidyUp.html)
Very strange interface and documentation, but has the ability to look inside Aperture for duplicates.