Luminous Landscape Forum
Equipment & Techniques => The Wet Darkroom => Topic started by: taxione on June 16, 2009, 12:21:49 pm
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I am new to developing my own black and white film; I just started about two weeks ago, and so far I REALLY enjoy it, and I have had positive results. I developed TMAX 100 4X5 in TMAX developer in a Yankee Tank, and the negatives came out fine. I scanned them on an Epson V700, and printed on HP Z3200, using Han. Photo Rag Baryte. I feel as if I have no idea what I'm doing, but the results were surpisingly good. I developed the TMAX in Rodinal, and the results were good, also.
My issue is that I just tried developing Efke 25 4X5 in Rodinal 1 + 50 for 8 min, and the results were MUCH too contrasty. So contrasty, that it wasn't worth printing from the scanned negatives. I am frustrated by this, b/c I like the Efke film, and want to develop this on my own. I took a polaroid, first to judge the exposure, and it was perfect. Any ideas of what I might have done wrong, or any suggestions? Thank you.
Adam
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You might try asking this on the LargeFormat Forum:
LFF (http://www.largeformatphotography.info/forum/index.php)
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Revise your dilutions, dev time, and temperature.
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I am new to developing my own black and white film; I just started about two weeks ago, and so far I REALLY enjoy it, and I have had positive results. I developed TMAX 100 4X5 in TMAX developer in a Yankee Tank, and the negatives came out fine. I scanned them on an Epson V700, and printed on HP Z3200, using Han. Photo Rag Baryte. I feel as if I have no idea what I'm doing, but the results were surpisingly good. I developed the TMAX in Rodinal, and the results were good, also.
My issue is that I just tried developing Efke 25 4X5 in Rodinal 1 + 50 for 8 min, and the results were MUCH too contrasty. So contrasty, that it wasn't worth printing from the scanned negatives. I am frustrated by this, b/c I like the Efke film, and want to develop this on my own. I took a polaroid, first to judge the exposure, and it was perfect. Any ideas of what I might have done wrong, or any suggestions? Thank you.
Adam
Since Polaroids are typically 100 ASA, did you remember to adjust your exposure down two stops? I say this because I've been in your shoes using the same polaroids and have forgotten myself.
Also, you say the film is too contrasty. Does that mean that the highlights are blown out? If not, then is it possible that the problem is that the scanner can't scan through the dense highlights. If the highlighs aree blown out then you need to go back and adjust your exposure.
Denis K
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Try Rodinal diluted 1:200 with distilled water and semi-stand processing in an open paper tray for 20minutes, agitating for the first minute, and then for 15-20 seconds every 3 minutes. Oh, that was looooong time ago in the darkroom....
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Is the subject tonalities and lighting too contrasty? Or is it the negative and its development that is too contrasty. Check the variables I mentioned previously. Some lenses are contrasty, especially Leica glass. Mamiya is also known for its contrast.
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There are others that have more expertise than I do on this, but from my experience, Rodinal in general results in high contrast. There are extended mixes that you can try such as 1:150 for 23 minutes. I don't remember my exact times with Efke films - they were something like that though. It would be worth while to seek out some of the developers that aren't readily available i stores. Also, with Efke films, it is recommended to not use a chemistry stop bath - just use plain distilled water. The emulsion is quite delicate.
Check http://www.apug.org (http://www.apug.org) and http://www.largeformatphotography.info/forum/index.php (http://www.largeformatphotography.info/forum/index.php). Those sites have good resources and people that are helpful.