Luminous Landscape Forum
Equipment & Techniques => Medium Format / Film / Digital Backs – and Large Sensor Photography => Topic started by: Shedaoshai on January 28, 2009, 04:42:21 pm
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hey guys,
i'm thinking about buying an used h3d39.
how are your experiences with shooting tethered?
How stable is it?
How fast are the previews are being generated?
What's about the buffer? How many shots till it's hit?
i'm mainly shooting commercial and editorial beauty and hair.
THX A LOT !!!!!!
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Hi Keith
I've not heard of any dramatic differences in noise between the two, I suspect the removal of the fan in favour of heat sinks is simply a more elegant solution and probably reduces power usage, certainly the fan does not push dust on to the sensor. I think the main difference between the two would be the LCD I think it's generally regarded to be the best of the MFDB screens at the moment.
Nick-t
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Keith,
There was some concern about the IR Filter on the original H3D causing hot spots or specular reflections in certain lighting.
It was seen in the studio and I know of one landscape photographer who bemoaned its presence in harsh contrasty lighting.
Check the old threads about the time of the H3D II release as it was discussed and there were pics demonstrating it in the old body
and showing its absence in the new.
The new screen may be the best out there but I can say that yesterday I was shooting in afternoon light and should have had a
dark cloth with me to see it...probably a bad idea as I was standing on the side of a very busy bridge very little room for my tripod.
I do have a Hoodman loop to help but as usual left it at home in the rush to get on the road.
Bob
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hi,
i'm a new member to h3d-39 doing landscapes (non profit - just for my personal fun).
my first experiences are as follows:
great usage of the controls. i did not even have to look in the manual once to use it for my needs.
even handheld very usable.
image quality: superb (as far as i can say by now).
lcd screen: pretty unuseable. i ended up to leave it off - that saves power and the preview of the image is quite useless for evaluation.
and the histogramm is displayed on the grip's lcd anyway (to me one of the nicest features).
another thing thats cumbersome is battery life. after 30 shots (ok there where some several second shots) an error occured: "magazine battery low".
you have to quit this alert before you the camera is willing to work again. this is really annoying me. i was able to shot another 50 shots with this battery but after almost each shot there was this alert again.
i don't know if the battery life is way better with h3d II ?
and finally weather seals are not very well (especially the back and it's fan slots) - like discussed a few days ago. but maybe not much of an issue to your work.
after all i can say that i don't know if it was a good decision, because there are pros and cons, but where aren't?
i like it but worrying about the high price of the lenses, not to mention the price of the camera itself even 2nd hand. it took me some sleepless nights.
cheers
tom
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hi,
i'm a new member to h3d-39 doing landscapes (non profit - just for my personal fun).
my first experiences are as follows:
great usage of the controls. i did not even have to look in the manual once to use it for my needs.
even handheld very usable.
image quality: superb (as far as i can say by now).
lcd screen: pretty unuseable. i ended up to leave it off - that saves power and the preview of the image is quite useless for evaluation.
and the histogramm is displayed on the grip's lcd anyway (to me one of the nicest features).
another thing thats cumbersome is battery life. after 30 shots (ok there where some several second shots) an error occured: "magazine battery low".
you have to quit this alert before you the camera is willing to work again. this is really annoying me. i was able to shot another 50 shots with this battery but after almost each shot there was this alert again.
i don't know if the battery life is way better with h3d II ?
and finally weather seals are not very well (especially the back and it's fan slots) - like discussed a few days ago. but maybe not much of an issue to your work.
after all i can say that i don't know if it was a good decision, because there are pros and cons, but where aren't?
i like it but worrying about the high price of the lenses, not to mention the price of the camera itself even 2nd hand. it took me some sleepless nights.
cheers
tom
Hi Tom
The battery life is better on H3D-II, however, you can make the battery on H3D-I work a lot better - you just have to reset the battery. How?, go to www.Hasselbladdigitalforum.com and learn how you do it or contact your dealer.
It is very easy!
Best regards,
O.R.
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thanks for feedback.
anyone experiences with my initial questions? would be great! thx!
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hey guys,
i'm thinking about buying an used h3d39.
how are your experiences with shooting tethered?
How stable is it?
How fast are the previews are being generated?
What's about the buffer? How many shots till it's hit?
i'm mainly shooting commercial and editorial beauty and hair.
THX A LOT !!!!!!
To respond to your questions.. I shoot with an H3D31 so not quite equivalent but your experiences should be similiar.
The tethered setup is extremely stable. You can disconnect and reconnect the firewire at will without any hiccups. It's very rare these days that I have any connection issues, maybe once every 3 months. If it does happen I will simply disconnect and shut everything down and re-start.
Previews come up in I guess about a second plus another second for it to draw hires (this is with Phocus). I have yet to hit the buffer, I think on a fast machine (I'm on a dual quad 2.8 10 GIG ram Macpro) you'll never hit it, you will have to wait however as the images load in the background (if you have shot a big set) before you can start editing the images. This is an area that the Phocus guys are working on improving.
HTH
Nick-T
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Keith,
I have searched for the original thread about the starburst flare with the old IR Filter on the H3D and the following threads mention the new improved IR Filter on the H3D II:
http://luminous-landscape.com/forum/index....ction+ir+filter (http://luminous-landscape.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=30559&hl=h3d+reflection+ir+filter)
http://luminous-landscape.com/forum/index....ction+ir+filter (http://luminous-landscape.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=24433&hl=h3d+reflection+ir+filter)
http://luminous-landscape.com/forum/index....ction+ir+filter (http://luminous-landscape.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=21722&hl=h3d+reflection+ir+filter)
http://luminous-landscape.com/forum/index....mp;hl=h3d+flare (http://luminous-landscape.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=20966&hl=h3d+flare)
http://luminous-landscape.com/forum/index....c=21499&hl= (http://luminous-landscape.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=21499&hl=)
I believe that the example pics have been deleted but you may have luck contacting the posters directly.
Bob
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thx!!!!
one question ;-)
can the h3d-39 powered via FW800??
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thx!!!!
one question ;-)
can the h3d-39 powered via FW800??
No, not the camera. But if you use the back solo on a viewcam it can.
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thanks!
so the h3d is also only capable of shooting 250 photos per battery although it's tethered to a mac?
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thanks!
so the h3d is also only capable of shooting 250 photos per battery although it's tethered to a mac?
Incorrect! ;-)
When connected to FW800 power demands are split between the batter and sensor unit.
So, the camera body draws from the grip, the sensor unit (most power thirsty part) draws from the FW800.
If in some case (like on later Macs) the power requirement is too low on the FW800 port, then the battery will 'top-up' as needed. This still means you can work with long cables on any Mac without having to resort to special firewire cables or adapters which cut the power from the FW port.
Also if you are working on a PC with a non powered port then automatically the H3D will work off the battery.
The user does not need to make a selection in the menu.
Best
David
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hi,
i'm a new member to h3d-39 doing landscapes (non profit - just for my personal fun).
my first experiences are as follows:
great usage of the controls. i did not even have to look in the manual once to use it for my needs.
even handheld very usable.
image quality: superb (as far as i can say by now).
lcd screen: pretty unuseable. i ended up to leave it off - that saves power and the preview of the image is quite useless for evaluation.
and the histogramm is displayed on the grip's lcd anyway (to me one of the nicest features).
another thing thats cumbersome is battery life. after 30 shots (ok there where some several second shots) an error occured: "magazine battery low".
you have to quit this alert before you the camera is willing to work again. this is really annoying me. i was able to shot another 50 shots with this battery but after almost each shot there was this alert again.
i don't know if the battery life is way better with h3d II ?
and finally weather seals are not very well (especially the back and it's fan slots) - like discussed a few days ago. but maybe not much of an issue to your work.
after all i can say that i don't know if it was a good decision, because there are pros and cons, but where aren't?
i like it but worrying about the high price of the lenses, not to mention the price of the camera itself even 2nd hand. it took me some sleepless nights.
cheers
tom
As O.Richter says, you need to reset the 'fuel gauge' in the battery. Very easily done. Let me know if you haven't already done it and I will post the details.
David
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hey guys,
i'm thinking about buying an used h3d39.
how are your experiences with shooting tethered?
How stable is it?
How fast are the previews are being generated?
What's about the buffer? How many shots till it's hit?
i'm mainly shooting commercial and editorial beauty and hair.
THX A LOT !!!!!!
When it was the Flexcolor, I was not too impressed but the H3D39 with Phocus, it is just as fast as my P45/P45+ on C1 Pro. Very stable, I can ran thru 1,000 captures in one single folder just on an iMac 24" 2.4G/4G RAM and the camera/software still perform nicely. I don't know how fast you shoot, but usually during a fashion work I communicate to model to have her synchronize the speed f the shoot and have her work on s sequence of poses, I didn't time it, but I think you can run a sequence of 5-6 captures before pausing for a few seconds. To me it is fast enough and I do wish the Phocus to offer the highlight/shadow recovery as the C1 Pro. But, H3D39 and Phocus is a very good combination. If price is met your budget then go for it. All the digital backs in the market today is quite good, to my eyes, it depends on how do you see yourself i your own work, but choices are more than just one.
Regards, K
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As O.Richter says, you need to reset the 'fuel gauge' in the battery. Very easily done. Let me know if you haven't already done it and I will post the details.
David
hi david,
i've not done it yet but will do in these days when i got some free time.
how many shots should a fully loaded battery provide - roughly, i think it will depend on several things like shutter speed etc.
but only to have a feeling for it.
btw.: how high is the power consumption of the lcd on the back of the h3d? as i meantioned i leave it off, cause it's almost useless anyway. does this give me significant more shots?
cheers
tom
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hi david,
i've not done it yet but will do in these days when i got some free time.
how many shots should a fully loaded battery provide - roughly, i think it will depend on several things like shutter speed etc.
but only to have a feeling for it.
btw.: how high is the power consumption of the lcd on the back of the h3d? as i meantioned i leave it off, cause it's almost useless anyway. does this give me significant more shots?
cheers
tom
Battery life depends a lot on wether you use AF, shutter speeds, lens used, no of captures per hour and so on. So it is pretty hard to make a general statement.
However lets say around 300 shots. If you are working outside then the ambient temperature will have a lot to do with it as well.
The LCD does not draw a huge amount of power and it will cut off when not being used so it is largely irrelevant. As for it being 'useless' some people like to see what they have just captured.
Best
David
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However lets say around 300 shots. If you are working outside then the ambient temperature will have a lot to do with it as well.
ok thats far better than i've experienced.
As for it being 'useless' some people like to see what they have just captured.
you are right, but i can see the picture through the viewfinder, and for control i can see the histogramm on the grip's lcd. the back's lcd is simply not good enough for precise image control - in my opinion.
ok, i admit i'm photographing landscapes nothing that moves a lot between shooting.
cheers
tom
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To respond to your questions.. I shoot with an H3D31 so not quite equivalent but your experiences should be similiar.
The tethered setup is extremely stable. You can disconnect and reconnect the firewire at will without any hiccups. It's very rare these days that I have any connection issues, maybe once every 3 months. If it does happen I will simply disconnect and shut everything down and re-start.
Previews come up in I guess about a second plus another second for it to draw hires (this is with Phocus). I have yet to hit the buffer, I think on a fast machine (I'm on a dual quad 2.8 10 GIG ram Macpro) you'll never hit it, you will have to wait however as the images load in the background (if you have shot a big set) before you can start editing the images. This is an area that the Phocus guys are working on improving.
HTH
Nick-T
I had problems recently with a 800 to 800 FW cable. It didn't connect well. The 800 to 400 Hasselblad supply worked everytime. This is not the case though with Phocus running on a PC.
The icons do come in quickly but I can't see any way you can have a high res preview in 1 sec in Phocus. This is on multiple Macs , even my editing Mac with 9 GB of RAm, and a RAID striped for scratch. There are some things that can crash Phocus but overall it is very stable, well designed, an application with need for just a few improvements.
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Battery life depends a lot on wether you use AF, shutter speeds, lens used, no of captures per hour and so on. So it is pretty hard to make a general statement.
However lets say around 300 shots. If you are working outside then the ambient temperature will have a lot to do with it as well.
The LCD does not draw a huge amount of power and it will cut off when not being used so it is largely irrelevant. As for it being 'useless' some people like to see what they have just captured.
Best
David
Yesterday I shot around 150 shots in succession without much draw on the battery itself although it was tethered with a FW 800 cable. Speed of shooting with the 39II was surprisingly acceptable compared to my new Canon 5DII. The transfer between camera and Mac, was fluid and safe without a hiccup. True it does buffer out at about 5 or 6 images but that is like a warning that one should slow down and really look through that big beautiful viewfinder.
The power management with the new camera is really as good as it gets, both the camera operation, LCD, and the back itself.
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hey guys,
i'm thinking about buying an used h3d39.
how are your experiences with shooting tethered?
How stable is it?
How fast are the previews are being generated?
What's about the buffer? How many shots till it's hit?
i'm mainly shooting commercial and editorial beauty and hair.
THX A LOT !!!!!!
my experience. i have had H3DII 39 for over two months and shot a bunch with it.
prior i was with mamiya and a P25.
camera is great. i love it.
phocus is giving me a bunch or problems. hasselblad support in a month has not been able to solve them yet.
mainly two issues:
1- preview at anything lower than 25% is soft, and unusable to determine focus. even if you are supposed to look for correct focus at 100%, it still helps to give a quick glance at the whole frame and understand the focus.
2 - phocus crashed on me few times, creating unusable files, and corrupted 3F. that could be computer related, but on both my macpro and my macbook pro it happened. on the macbook pro i now shoot 30/40 images, and then create a new folder. not the best, as i feel i am back to changing rolls of film... but at least is solving my issues for the time being.
previews and buffer are not super-fast, but they are ok in speed. if you shoot many images using the 1 fps rate after a while it tends to fill up and you have to wait.
battery not an issue for me when tethered. more than 1200 shots in one day with no recharge.
other thing to consider, i am positive you know, is that currently you are stuck with phocus or flexcolor for processing. no LR/photoshop support, apart from exporting to DNG first.
best,
alberto
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my experience. i have had H3DII 39 for over two months and shot a bunch with it.
prior i was with mamiya and a P25.
camera is great. i love it.
phocus is giving me a bunch or problems. hasselblad support in a month has not been able to solve them yet.
mainly two issues:
1- preview at anything lower than 25% is soft, and unusable to determine focus. even if you are supposed to look for correct focus at 100%, it still helps to give a quick glance at the whole frame and understand the focus.
2 - phocus crashed on me few times, creating unusable files, and corrupted 3F. that could be computer related, but on both my macpro and my macbook pro it happened. on the macbook pro i now shoot 30/40 images, and then create a new folder. not the best, as i feel i am back to changing rolls of film... but at least is solving my issues for the time being.
previews and buffer are not super-fast, but they are ok in speed. if you shoot many images using the 1 fps rate after a while it tends to fill up and you have to wait.
battery not an issue for me when tethered. more than 1200 shots in one day with no recharge.
other thing to consider, i am positive you know, is that currently you are stuck with phocus or flexcolor for processing. no LR/photoshop support, apart from exporting to DNG first.
best,
alberto
I only used the new Phocus 1.03soft with focus setting at 100% . I didn't know how or even it was possible at lower zooms.
Curious but since Canon are having problems with crashes and freezes at between 120-160 files per folders with OsX.5.6 update, maybe the problem is Apple.
Phocus 1.01on PC crashed on me and was unusable.
I was able to shoot fast enough with no problems in transfer up to the filling of the buffer.
The Canon is the same but you can shoot faster until the buffer is full. With a card I suppose you could shoot very fast on the Canon.
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I only used the new Phocus 1.03soft with focus setting at 100% .
The soft previews are a pain and it is being worked on. Phocus mac (which is a few versions ahead of the PC version) is very stable on my systems and has come along way in a relatively short time, granted there is more to do.
Nick-T
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The soft previews are a pain and it is being worked on. Phocus mac (which is a few versions ahead of the PC version) is very stable on my systems and has come along way in a relatively short time, granted there is more to do.
Nick-T
Hey nick, when your sitting around the campfire working out issues with those Hasselblad fellows does the word phocus get confusing?
I mean, do you say, hey I'm having problems with phocus and they reply, focus of the lens or body and you reply no focus on Phocus and do they reply, how do you focus, focus.
it has to be confusing (and a little ironic) that focus on phocus is a problem.
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Quick post... use the H3D-39mp as DSLR is fine. When used with any technical camera, ie Cambo WRS, Alpa... you are on your own! I now have a 6months old 39mp back that doesn't work well with technical camera and require a special cable release, which "may be" will rectify the matter. I tested with DEMO unit BEFORE purchasing/upgrading and no specific problem. But once I one this "new" back, I discover strange magenta casting. Also strange is that my friends in US/Canada and AU, who still uses Hasselblad 39mp back all don't have any issues with technical cameras ie Linhof, Sinar, Rollie, Cambo, Alpa, Horseman.
So, beware... please test your 39mp first with a technical camera if you intend to buy. If no intention in the future, then DSLR is fine as a 39mp just as it is.
(PS: David, you can voucher on this!)
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That magenta cast sounds like a sync problem. Which can be fixed fairly simple in most cases.
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I would say the H3D 39 is a fantastic camera. For me personally I don't see any need to upgrade to the 39 II or the 50.
There are some issues however
The water seal around the firewire port is well non existant. Unless you call a flap a water seal.
The battery life is awful.
I use the camera for architectural and landscape work with a Cambo digitar wide ds. The compatibility between the Hassie back and the cambo has been a real pain at times. Most of the issues like large magenta and cyan pixilated patterns suddenly appearing on the images for no reason have been resolved with the introduction of phocus. I usuallly shoot tethered and I have to say phocus really brings the Hassleblad up to another level. The lack of noise and the new moire removal is fantastic. It is more user friendly than flexcolour and has more features. The buffer has never filled up for me but I shoot landscape and architecture so I'm not really pushing to the limit.
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I took many shots with my Hasselblad H3DII 39 and still the battery is ready to go, yesterday i took around 30 photos of my daughters and an adopted son, and before i took some shots of still life, and still the battery is working, but my problem is that first i can't work with Phocus due to my OSX which is still 10.4 and i didn't upgrade and no plan to do, second my workflow is not good as i have problem to correct colors or adjust the rest like sharpness and contrast and so with any photo, and last is that i don't use this camera for any serious or pro high quality work yet, so i don't know what i can do with this amazing phenomenal camera.
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Quick post... use the H3D-39mp as DSLR is fine. When used with any technical camera, ie Cambo WRS, Alpa... you are on your own! I now have a 6months old 39mp back that doesn't work well with technical camera and require a special cable release, which "may be" will rectify the matter. I tested with DEMO unit BEFORE purchasing/upgrading and no specific problem. But once I one this "new" back, I discover strange magenta casting. Also strange is that my friends in US/Canada and AU, who still uses Hasselblad 39mp back all don't have any issues with technical cameras ie Linhof, Sinar, Rollie, Cambo, Alpa, Horseman.
So, beware... please test your 39mp first with a technical camera if you intend to buy. If no intention in the future, then DSLR is fine as a 39mp just as it is.
(PS: David, you can voucher on this!)
I'm wondering if the Magenta cast is the same thing I've ran into with the Kodak chips. It happened to my PhaseOne and now my HD3II 39 on an Arca-Swiis view camera with copal shutters.
There is a feature in Phocus called Custom White Balance.
Here is the only instructions I've found on this:
Custom white correction
This feature allows you to correct for things like cast issues when using tilt and shift. User interface for this has been added to the lens correction tool. The procedure is as follows:
1) Make a calibration image of a neutral gray surface - the best results are obtained by using an opaque filter. The capture can be made either tethered or untethered.
2) The calibration image needs to be available as a 3F file so if it was captured untethered you will need to import it.
3) Load an image where you'd like to apply the correction
4) Select the thumbnail of the calibration image and click the Create button found in the Lens Correction tool
5) You will be prompted for a name of the correction - it's a good idea to use it to describe things like the lens and aperture used.
6) You have now created a custom white correction - to see it's effect on the currently loaded image check the Custom white checkbox.
7) To apply the custom white correction you can follow the same methods as when applying any other adjustment to a range of images using either the Modify dialog or the Modify Lens Corrections of Selected Files option in the Lens tool preset menu.
8) If this correction is one that you might want to save for future use you can simply create a Lens Adjustment preset with the correction active.
This applies to Phocus 1.1 or later MAC ONLY.
The current Phocus for the PC does not have tis feature yet. We have to wait for version 1.1 to come out.
However if you are a PC person like myself the custom white balance feature does work on FlexColor.
The cable release problem I never encountered with the Hasselbald but I did with the Phase.
If you are using copal shutters use a standard cable release and a cable from the shutter sync to one of the ports on the back. You may need to go into the menu on the back and select the proper shutter style. I think it defaults to the HD3II.
If you are tethered using Flexcolor You may be able to change the shutter style through the software. I don't know how to do this through Phocus though.
I hope this helps,
Bob
I hope this solves your problem.
Bob
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Hey nick, when your sitting around the campfire working out issues with those Hasselblad fellows does the word phocus get confusing?
I mean, do you say, hey I'm having problems with phocus and they reply, focus of the lens or body and you reply no focus on Phocus and do they reply, how do you focus, focus.
it has to be confusing (and a little ironic) that focus on phocus is a problem.
Yeah I have had encounted this problem too, I was stating that to a colleague that all the photos were out of Phocus (as in they had been exported as tiffs) and he just froze until I hastily explained.
In terms of Phocus stability on the MacPro, personally I haven't had a problem the other day I was working on a folder of 2400-odd H3D-39 captures and it was fine (though I did need to time my lunch around when I was going to convert them from 3FR to fff).
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Hi guys
With all lenses and especially wide-angle lenses, the glass at the edges is very thick compared to the center. Light traveling through the center arrives at the sensor faster than light at the edge of the lens. This same effect is really obvious in older DSLR wide angle lenses that were designed for use in mirror up mode and is why they are not recommended for digital capture. Digital capture chips record much more than film, capturing the speed difference of light causing a phenomenon known as “lens cast”. Lens cast is seen as a fading cyan hue in one corner of the image and a fading magenta hue in the opposite corner and as you say Bob it is rectified with the custom white under the lens correction tool.
The problem I had with this magenta and cyan pixilated distortion was different. I have attached a photo. You would literally have blocks of magenta or cyan appearing on the corners of the image making it useless. This was to say the least an absolute pain in the behind. I shoot often out doors in bright sunshine and I would constantly have to check if this pixilated issue would start happening. When it would start it would be quite subtle and would be very difficult to notice in the sunshine unless you zoomed in a bit. Eventually these large blocks of color would become more and more defined. The only way to rectify it was to disconnect the camera from the laptop and reconnect. Endless calls to my camera dealer who in turn made endless calls and emails to hasselblad did not rectify the problem. They were blaming everything bar their camera on the problem. For example that there was too much sky in the shot which was affecting the camera!!! and their suggestion was wait for it.... to go indoors set up the camera movements and aperture and than go outside and take she shot.
It is only now with phocus that the problem seems to have sorted itself out. To me it was always a software compatability issue between the 2 cameras.
Has anyone else had this problem when using the h3d 39 with a view camera.
BTW the custom white tool on phocus is 10 times better than with flexcolour where you had to to the whole custom white on location everytime you changed the aperture or lens movements. Now it's possible to do it later at your desktop.
Enda
I'm wondering if the Magenta cast is the same thing I've ran into with the Kodak chips. It happened to my PhaseOne and now my HD3II 39 on an Arca-Swiis view camera with copal shutters.
There is a feature in Phocus called Custom White Balance.
Here is the only instructions I've found on this:
Custom white correction
This feature allows you to correct for things like cast issues when using tilt and shift. User interface for this has been added to the lens correction tool. The procedure is as follows:
1) Make a calibration image of a neutral gray surface - the best results are obtained by using an opaque filter. The capture can be made either tethered or untethered.
2) The calibration image needs to be available as a 3F file so if it was captured untethered you will need to import it.
3) Load an image where you'd like to apply the correction
4) Select the thumbnail of the calibration image and click the Create button found in the Lens Correction tool
5) You will be prompted for a name of the correction - it's a good idea to use it to describe things like the lens and aperture used.
6) You have now created a custom white correction - to see it's effect on the currently loaded image check the Custom white checkbox.
7) To apply the custom white correction you can follow the same methods as when applying any other adjustment to a range of images using either the Modify dialog or the Modify Lens Corrections of Selected Files option in the Lens tool preset menu.
8) If this correction is one that you might want to save for future use you can simply create a Lens Adjustment preset with the correction active.
This applies to Phocus 1.1 or later MAC ONLY.
The current Phocus for the PC does not have tis feature yet. We have to wait for version 1.1 to come out.
However if you are a PC person like myself the custom white balance feature does work on FlexColor.
The cable release problem I never encountered with the Hasselbald but I did with the Phase.
If you are using copal shutters use a standard cable release and a cable from the shutter sync to one of the ports on the back. You may need to go into the menu on the back and select the proper shutter style. I think it defaults to the HD3II.
If you are tethered using Flexcolor You may be able to change the shutter style through the software. I don't know how to do this through Phocus though.
I hope this helps,
Bob
I hope this solves your problem.
Bob
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Quick post... use the H3D-39mp as DSLR is fine. When used with any technical camera, ie Cambo WRS, Alpa... you are on your own! I now have a 6months old 39mp back that doesn't work well with technical camera and require a special cable release, which "may be" will rectify the matter. I tested with DEMO unit BEFORE purchasing/upgrading and no specific problem. But once I one this "new" back, I discover strange magenta casting. Also strange is that my friends in US/Canada and AU, who still uses Hasselblad 39mp back all don't have any issues with technical cameras ie Linhof, Sinar, Rollie, Cambo, Alpa, Horseman.
So, beware... please test your 39mp first with a technical camera if you intend to buy. If no intention in the future, then DSLR is fine as a 39mp just as it is.
(PS: David, you can voucher on this!)
Actually Richard I cannot vouch for this at all. I have answered on your original thread...
http://luminous-landscape.com/forum/index....st&p=260229 (http://luminous-landscape.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=32025&view=findpost&p=260229)