Luminous Landscape Forum
Raw & Post Processing, Printing => Printing: Printers, Papers and Inks => Topic started by: dgberg on January 24, 2009, 05:11:24 pm
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Printed 6 canvas prints 2 weeks ago on my Epson 7900. All prints dried at least 24 hours and then were coated with 2 coats of Glamor II. Canvas was Epsons Premium Canvas Matt and Premium Canvas Satin.
Per Gallery Stretcher's instructions I folded approximately 2 inches from the edge and made a crease with my hand. This is to help with alignment when doing the first course of staples. Both edges that I creased with my hand showed a crack right through the ink. This was not even put in the stretcher machine up to this point. Almost all the edges that cracked were black so the white canvas really stuck out. I did 2 more and they only cracked slightly but it was still there. The last one I gallery wrapped had NO Glamor II and guess what no cracks. These were all test pieces for my house but I need to figure this out pretty quick. All would have been un-sellable. Any ideas?
Dan Berg
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Should be pretty obvious, quit using Glamor II. With no UV inhibitors and all the other problems why does anybody use Glamor II?
Doyle
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Of perhaps us the Glamour II after you have wrapped them.
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I guess I listened to all the pre purchase hype but was told canvas would check or split if not covered. Also that the only real way to make sure it does not crack is to put the finish on before it is stretched. Oh well I will see what the company says Monday. Just cannot imagine the product makes it more susceptible to splitting?
Dan Berg
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I guess I listened to all the pre purchase hype but was told canvas would check or split if not covered. Also that the only real way to make sure it does not crack is to put the finish on before it is stretched. Oh well I will see what the company says Monday. Just cannot imagine the product makes it more susceptible to splitting?
Dan Berg
Back when I used Glamor II for a while before I gave up on liquid coatings I noticed that Glamor II got brittle pretty fast. Clearshield type stays soft/rubbery much longer. But it also had a stickiness to it which meant you had to use a release liner of something between the canvas and anything it might come in contact to or else you would you would get some damage from that. Boy am I am glad for Heat-Set film laminates so I now longer have to put up with all the hassles of liquid coatings.
Doyle
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I am debating whether I should coat the canvas prints I plan to make in the near future. The ones I made without coating seem fine. I use a Canon printer and the prints I made on Canon graphic matte canvas seem very durable. I made a small test print and folded it a few times and tried to scrape the ink off with my fingernail. I even put it under water and rubbed it. No problem.
So is the spray primarily for UV protection? Or is there some added durability?
I'd like to know more about Clearshield staying sticky. I never heard that before and it is the brand I was thinking of using.
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So is the spray primarily for UV protection? Or is there some added durability?
I'd like to know more about Clearshield staying sticky. I never heard that before and it is the brand I was thinking of using.
UV protection and durability. A properly coated canvas can take a serious beating including gentle scrapes from sharp objects and wiping with wet cloth.
Never had any problems with Clearshield staying sticky, although I have not used it on anything recently except Epson Premium Matte. Two fairly generous coats 24 hours apart, as with many paints if you apply a second coat too soon that can inhibit the first coat from drying...in the end trying to go too fast makes everything take longer. Good painters must cultivate a degree of patience not common in our times.
Of course it's sticky while it's drying. A double-coat canvas really takes 3 days to completely dry after the final coat, simple fact of life. If you try to wrap it before that then I suppose it will feel sticky.
I wonder if Dan's stretcher machine is pulling too hard?
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UV protection and durability. A properly coated canvas can take a serious beating including gentle scrapes from sharp objects and wiping with wet cloth.
Never had any problems with Clearshield staying sticky, although I have not used it on anything recently except Epson Premium Matte. Two fairly generous coats 24 hours apart, as with many paints if you apply a second coat too soon that can inhibit the first coat from drying...in the end trying to go too fast makes everything take longer. Good painters must cultivate a degree of patience not common in our times.
Of course it's sticky while it's drying. A double-coat canvas really takes 3 days to completely dry after the final coat, simple fact of life. If you try to wrap it before that then I suppose it will feel sticky.
I wonder if Dan's stretcher machine is pulling too hard?
If you note my above comment the canvas was folded and creased by my hand only. Just an alignment fold to help with the first course of staples. Turned the canvas to look at it before stapling and the hand folded crease was cracked through the ink the entire 24" length. Have not had problems when stretching. Maybe the fold should not have been creased with my hand. I watched the Gallery Stretcher video again and he folds the canvas but does not crease it.
Dan
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If you note my above comment the canvas was folded and creased by my hand only. Just an alignment fold to help with the first course of staples. Turned the canvas to look at it before stapling and the hand folded crease was cracked through the ink the entire 24" length. Have not had problems when stretching. Maybe the fold should not have been creased with my hand. I watched the Gallery Stretcher video again and he folds the canvas but does not crease it.
Dan
You are probably right about the amount of creasing because where I always noticed problems was at the folds in the corners.
Doyle
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You are probably right about the amount of creasing because where I always noticed problems was at the folds in the corners.
Doyle
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You are probably right about the amount of creasing because where I always noticed problems was at the folds in the corners.
Doyle
Yes. In my experience, creasing the canvas too sharply risks creating cracking, no matter what coating or canvas is used. My recommendation is to avoid sharply folding the canvas (I draw a pencil line on the back of the canvas to help with alignment instead of creasing the canvas). I find that if I fold the corners slowly (2-3 seconds) instead of "snapping" the corner folds that I don't get cracking. Glamour II does seem to dry thoroughly more quickly than ClearShield Type C, but within 24 hours Clearshield no longer seems "sticky".
David V. Ward, Ph. D.
www.dvward.com
David V. Ward Fine Art Photography
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Also helps if your bars have somewhat rounded corners so the canvas doesn't hang up on a sharp edge concentrating the stress at that point.
Like these. These are excellent stretcher bars, but you have to cut them to length yourself and they don't come milled with the standard tricked out adjustable stretcher bar corners.
http://linenliners.com/products/stretchers/ (http://linenliners.com/products/stretchers/)
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You might also try to grind down a bit the bar edges. I do this on back edges of my bars as they are quite sharp.
This way I don't experience cracking with BC canvas and glamour II. Before I had cracks on some other uncoated canvas. So next time I ground them down and it worked fine for me.
BTW, does anybody have experience with both, glamour II and clearshield? How do they compare? I have only tried glamour II so far.
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I changed canvas to Breathing Color Chromata White - even uncoated, creasing it 180 degrees with my fingers I couldn't crack it. Combined with Glamour 2 it's the best canvas/coating combination I've used so far, no cracking after mounting. Of course everyone has their preference for canvas so I'm not saying this is the best canvas to use.
Neal
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I have 8 or 9 rolls of Epson canvas and am hoping there is no problem with the canvas. Again this checking/splitting is done with my bare hands before the canvas gets near the stretchers. Stretchers have a real nice bull nosed edge so the ones that are stretched show no damage signs on those edges. I have 2 rolls of the Breathing Color Canvas but am awaiting profiles for my new Epson 7900. Anyone heard anything in that regard?
Dan Berg
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I have 8 or 9 rolls of Epson canvas and am hoping there is no problem with the canvas. Again this checking/splitting is done with my bare hands before the canvas gets near the stretchers. Stretchers have a real nice bull nosed edge so the ones that are stretched show no damage signs on those edges. I have 2 rolls of the Breathing Color Canvas but am awaiting profiles for my new Epson 7900. Anyone heard anything in that regard?
Dan Berg
I have a profile for epson 7900/BC chromata white, you might try to use. It is created using ArgyllCMS from 2000 patches. Best used with images in ProPhoto colorspace. I use FineArt papers/Canvas paper setting, density +15% and wide platen gap, "Quality" quality setting. It is created from uncoated patches measuring. (didn't have yet time to coat and remeasure) Once coated it will be more saturated and will probably have better dmax - might be just a bit more into yellow, but didn't experience any unpleasant color shifts so far.
Try it first on some smaller print to see if it will fit your needs.
http://mulis.foo.cz/BC-CW-canvas.icc.zip (http://mulis.foo.cz/BC-CW-canvas.icc.zip)
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I have a profile for epson 7900/BC chromata white, you might try to use. It is created using ArgyllCMS from 2000 patches. Best used with images in ProPhoto colorspace. I use FineArt papers/Canvas paper setting, density +15% and wide platen gap, "Quality" quality setting. It is created from uncoated patches measuring. (didn't have yet time to coat and remeasure) Once coated it will be more saturated and will probably have better dmax - might be just a bit more into yellow, but didn't experience any unpleasant color shifts so far.
Try it first on some smaller print to see if it will fit your needs.
http://mulis.foo.cz/BC-CW-canvas.icc.zip (http://mulis.foo.cz/BC-CW-canvas.icc.zip)
Thank you I will give it a try. Please let me know if you would like compensated.
Best Regards
Dan Berg
www.bergscustomfurniture.com
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If you note my above comment the canvas was folded and creased by my hand only. Just an alignment fold to help with the first course of staples. Turned the canvas to look at it before stapling and the hand folded crease was cracked through the ink the entire 24" length. Have not had problems when stretching. Maybe the fold should not have been creased with my hand. I watched the Gallery Stretcher video again and he folds the canvas but does not crease it.
Dan
What gallery stretcher video? Where? When??!! I've the canvas, stretcher bars, canvas pliers, stapler... Anything else needed?
bartone
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What gallery stretcher video? Where? When??!! I've the canvas, stretcher bars, canvas pliers, stapler... Anything else needed?
bartone
One of the better ones. http://www.canvas-stretching-machine.com/ (http://www.canvas-stretching-machine.com/)
Doyle
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One of the better ones. http://www.canvas-stretching-machine.com/ (http://www.canvas-stretching-machine.com/)
Doyle
Yes that is the one I purchased. 60" model.
Dan Berg
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Yes that is the one I purchased. 60" model.
Dan Berg
They are great people to work with and are willing to make modification if you need it.
Doyle
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Thank you I will give it a try. Please let me know if you would like compensated.
No need for compensation. I would be just glad to hear how it worked for you.
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No need for compensation. I would be just glad to hear how it worked for you.
Thank you
I will give it a try and report back.
Dan Berg
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Also helps if your bars have somewhat rounded corners so the canvas doesn't hang up on a sharp edge concentrating the stress at that point.
Like these. These are excellent stretcher bars, but you have to cut them to length yourself and they don't come milled with the standard tricked out adjustable stretcher bar corners.
http://linenliners.com/products/stretchers/ (http://linenliners.com/products/stretchers/)
Bill-
How do you deal with the corners when you cut yours to length? Do you just cut sumple mitres, and glue and staple or nail them together with no lock mitre? How large a stretcher frames have you done with this material and style?
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Bill-
How do you deal with the corners when you cut yours to length? Do you just cut sumple mitres, and glue and staple or nail them together with no lock mitre? How large a stretcher frames have you done with this material and style?
Ron
Since I own a cabinetry business I have all the equipment to make it a little easier. No lock miters. I buy the lengths mitre to my size put in a miter squaring jig we have for doors . Glue and staple the corners. I plan to buy a under pinner when the time is right. The largest I have done is 20 X 32 (24 X 36 canvas.
Dan Berg
www.bergscustomfurniture.com
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Update from Breathing Color
Quote from them " Breathing Color was designed for Brilliance Chromata and Economize 800m canvas. We have not done any tests with Epson Canvases".
SAY WHAT?
They market this stuff like crazy and then tell you for the first time when you have an issue that it is only for there canvas. Epson is probably # 2 or 3 in market share if not #1. The thing that bothers me about the reply is they just tried to fluff off the use of Epson Canvas. To date I do not even know if the Glamor II was the problem but if they were going to give me an answer that might have helped they sure gave the wrong one.
Dan Berg
www.bergscustomfurniture.com
Bergs Canvas Gallery
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Welcome to the wonderful world of Breathing Color and their "customer support"
They are not very helpful when things go wrong.
Note, I have had a batch of their Canvas that did this also. cracked along the edges when stretching. This was a
17" roll of BCW one of their trial rolls. I assumed it was a old roll and the canvas had gotten brittle. My main issues with
them have been on their glossy canvas (batch 1469).
I would also consider the Clearstar brand, Type C for Canvas, glossy, semi Gloss or matte finish. Cost is about
the same. Glamour II does seem develop a harder finish over time. I have found it's best to stretch a canvas
sprayed with Glamour II as soon as possible.
Paul Caldwell
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Printed 6 canvas prints 2 weeks ago on my Epson 7900. All prints dried at least 24 hours and then were coated with 2 coats of Glamor II. Canvas was Epsons Premium Canvas Matt and Premium Canvas Satin.
Per Gallery Stretcher's instructions I folded approximately 2 inches from the edge and made a crease with my hand. This is to help with alignment when doing the first course of staples. Both edges that I creased with my hand showed a crack right through the ink. This was not even put in the stretcher machine up to this point. Almost all the edges that cracked were black so the white canvas really stuck out. I did 2 more and they only cracked slightly but it was still there. The last one I gallery wrapped had NO Glamor II and guess what no cracks. These were all test pieces for my house but I need to figure this out pretty quick. All would have been un-sellable. Any ideas?
Dan Berg
Dan,
From experience, with Glamour II, use at least three coats. When you get to the last coat, it is important to stretch before the Glamour loses all of it's flexibility - I usually stretch within the hour of applying the last coat.
Canvas choice is important, as has been said before here breathing color chromata is a great canvas and resists cracking more often than many of the others.
One of the other things with stretching, is that most people stretch too tightly. When initially stretching the canvas, it should be taught but with a little give. The corner pegs that you knock in to the canvas after stretching will give you the 'drum' tight finish. This method also helps to avoid cracking.
Whilst most canvases have UV inhibitors and will resist fading with no problems, an un-coated canvas has a number of disadvantages. In my experience, they do crack more easily. They mark very easily - you have to handle them with real care - and in my experience, the average client will not be as careful as you! Also they suffer from humidity and moisture changes. With three coats of GII, the canvas that you stretch is pretty much waterproof!
I hope that this is of some help.
Best
Andrew Stagg
www.bristolcanvas.com
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Dan,
From experience, with Glamour II, use at least three coats. When you get to the last coat, it is important to stretch before the Glamour loses all of it's flexibility - I usually stretch within the hour of applying the last coat.
Canvas choice is important, as has been said before here breathing color chromata is a great canvas and resists cracking more often than many of the others.
One of the other things with stretching, is that most people stretch too tightly. When initially stretching the canvas, it should be taught but with a little give. The corner pegs that you knock in to the canvas after stretching will give you the 'drum' tight finish. This method also helps to avoid cracking.
Whilst most canvases have UV inhibitors and will resist fading with no problems, an un-coated canvas has a number of disadvantages. In my experience, they do crack more easily. They mark very easily - you have to handle them with real care - and in my experience, the average client will not be as careful as you! Also they suffer from humidity and moisture changes. With three coats of GII, the canvas that you stretch is pretty much waterproof!
I hope that this is of some help.
Best
Andrew Stagg
www.bristolcanvas.com
Andrew,
Thank you for your thoughts and ideas. I have 2 issues I am still trying to work through. I have been working on sample canvas wraps now for about 3 weeks still trying to find a half dozen fixed sizes so we can put those sizes on our website. My problem is with every picture I process I get a slightly different size image. I have tried everything to no avail. Say I want a 20 X 30 inch canvas wrap and lose 2" the entire way around I then print on 24" X 34" so that I have a 20 X 30" finished product. It should mean I could order a 100 20 X 30" frames . But I get 19 3/4 X 29 1/2. The next time it will something different and so on. I am using Lightroom then to the new Genuine Fractals 6 and Photoshop CS4. It seems the problem is with different picture file sizes. No matter how carefully I check my borders and everything else involved I am not getting the same size. Would their be someway to set presets for this. Now you can see how I cannot buy preassembled frames when I am getting 10 different sizes of prints. Thanks for your help.
Dan Berg
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Andrew,
Thank you for your thoughts and ideas. I have 2 issues I am still trying to work through. I have been working on sample canvas wraps now for about 3 weeks still trying to find a half dozen fixed sizes so we can put those sizes on our website. My problem is with every picture I process I get a slightly different size image. I have tried everything to no avail. Say I want a 20 X 30 inch canvas wrap and lose 2" the entire way around I then print on 24" X 34" so that I have a 20 X 30" finished product. It should mean I could order a 100 20 X 30" frames . But I get 19 3/4 X 29 1/2. The next time it will something different and so on. I am using Lightroom then to the new Genuine Fractals 6 and Photoshop CS4. It seems the problem is with different picture file sizes. No matter how carefully I check my borders and everything else involved I am not getting the same size. Would their be someway to set presets for this. Now you can see how I cannot buy preassembled frames when I am getting 10 different sizes of prints. Thanks for your help.
Dan Berg
Dan,
That is where I use Qimage. Printing with CS4 can be a nightmare. With Qimage, I get to fix the size, the software automatically crops/resizes and sharpens and the image size is 100% consistent. The interface is quirky - and it took me a week of testing to get it right, but for the $90 for the studio edition, with my business it probably paid for itself in two or three days. It also has good colour management and will process raw files with a number of camera profiles available, together with printer profiles and amongst the best support in the business. There is a free download that you can try out for 30 days.
Qimage (http://www.ddisoftware.com/qimage)
Just for your info, where possible, I add 2.5" all round on the image when printing (if the image allows) - it gives me a little more flexibility on the positioning of the canvas over the frame - so our 18" x 12" prints at 23"x17" if possible.
I hope this helps.
Best
Andrew Stagg
www.bristolcanvas.com (http://www.bristolcanvas.com)
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My experience, with the Epson 9880 and Epson drivers, you will most likely miss the running length unless you make a modification, but you should hit the width 100% or very close.
Also each canvas type/brand will feed slightly different in my experience.
The 9600,9800 and 9880 all have this issue. You can do many things to help.
1. Add length to the part of the print that will be running lenght. Example, on a 20 x 30, the 20" is my running length. I will add between 1/8 to 1/16 of an inch to the running length depending on the
canvas I am using. There is no exact science unfortunately
2. Adjust the paper feed in the Epson Driver, not sure where or how you would do this as you mentioned you are printing from lightroom, If it uses the same dialog boxes CS3 does then you can
manually change this. Epson recommends as much as +50 for their canvas.
However unless you are mirroring your edge, you should still be OK if the print doesn't come out exact. All you need is the 20 x 30 and you can line that up as you like. With a mirror, then it's
harder as you have to hit the edge of the mirror on all sides or the mirror shows when viewed. Not sure how you are finishing the print out for the extra 2" all around.
Paul Caldwell
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My experience, with the Epson 9880 and Epson drivers, you will most likely miss the running length unless you make a modification, but you should hit the width 100% or very close.
Also each canvas type/brand will feed slightly different in my experience.
The 9600,9800 and 9880 all have this issue. You can do many things to help.
1. Add length to the part of the print that will be running lenght. Example, on a 20 x 30, the 20" is my running length. I will add between 1/8 to 1/16 of an inch to the running length depending on the
canvas I am using. There is no exact science unfortunately
I am using Genuine Fractals 6 which has a new gallery wrap feature. You just fill in the blank for how much you want to add to the edge based on your stretcher thickness and that is all their is to it. You then get a print with your wrap around all ready reflected. But its allmost impossible to get them to come out the same size all the time.
Dan Berg
2. Adjust the paper feed in the Epson Driver, not sure where or how you would do this as you mentioned you are printing from lightroom, If it uses the same dialog boxes CS3 does then you can
manually change this. Epson recommends as much as +50 for their canvas.
However unless you are mirroring your edge, you should still be OK if the print doesn't come out exact. All you need is the 20 x 30 and you can line that up as you like. With a mirror, then it's
harder as you have to hit the edge of the mirror on all sides or the mirror shows when viewed. Not sure how you are finishing the print out for the extra 2" all around.
Paul Caldwell
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At Dan Doyle,
You are vacuum press heat laminating and then stretching your canvases? What film are you using? Thanks!
Craig Murphy
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Andrew,
Thank you for your thoughts and ideas. I have 2 issues I am still trying to work through. I have been working on sample canvas wraps now for about 3 weeks still trying to find a half dozen fixed sizes so we can put those sizes on our website. My problem is with every picture I process I get a slightly different size image. I have tried everything to no avail. Say I want a 20 X 30 inch canvas wrap and lose 2" the entire way around I then print on 24" X 34" so that I have a 20 X 30" finished product. It should mean I could order a 100 20 X 30" frames . But I get 19 3/4 X 29 1/2. The next time it will something different and so on. I am using Lightroom then to the new Genuine Fractals 6 and Photoshop CS4. It seems the problem is with different picture file sizes. No matter how carefully I check my borders and everything else involved I am not getting the same size. Would their be someway to set presets for this. Now you can see how I cannot buy preassembled frames when I am getting 10 different sizes of prints. Thanks for your help.
Dan Berg
I found a small error is different sizes when I was making three prints the same size. One was slightly different when I measured it later. It turned out the different sized print had a different ppi setting to the other 2 ie something like 298.3333 dpi instead of 300. Once I changed this everything was more consistent. Sounds weird but it worked for me. I should mention I was using Qimage to do printing, but image resizing was done in photoshop.
Neal
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At Dan Doyle,
You are vacuum press heat laminating and then stretching your canvases? What film are you using? Thanks!
Craig Murphy
No, laminating with heated roll laminator. Mostly Seal Print Guard. I have used Drytac Mediashield. Not really any difference.
Most of the time I print full rolls and then laminate roll to roll.
Doyle
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Thanks Dan. At the print size issue. Qimage is a little strange. If you have it set to 'do not overide native ppi' it seems to not overide sometimes but then it does at other times changing the size of the print. If your not paying attention you wind up with a print not quite right.
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I'll through in my two cents and ask a question since this looks like the right group is assembled......
The only way we've been able to substantially eliminate the cracking with BC chromata white is when we were having it laminated, similar to Doyle. Perfect edges almost every time. Very tough and no flaking or chips at the corners. Bang an edge -- no problem! Unfortunately we were farming out the laminating and the company wrecked two large orders in a row -- didn't even stop when they could SEE that they were getting wrinkles, just kept wrecking print after print. Idiots. After some debate we decided not to get our own laminator, so we moved on.
Now we have the canvas sprayed with the Glamour II and live with some cracking and very fragile edges. There does seem to be quite a bit of variation in ether the coating or the canvas as some lots won't crack much and others crack all the way around. BC says we need to spray it on thicker which is all well and fine until it starts running. Large pieces can't be sprayed horizontal because the canvas doesn't lay flat and it puddles. No one in our crew likes the thick rolled look and it takes too much time and space for the volume we do and anyway with the pictures I have done myself (with a roller) the coating is very heavy and still cracks. The only other canvas we've used much of has been the Epson matte pro (or whatever it's called now) but that was in the lamination days and we had to give it up because of supply issues. The cracking has never really been resolved for us but is kind of out of my hands.
2nd the recommendation for QImage. I've used it for years and even with the goofy UI it's worlds easier than PS.
My question:
Has anyone had recent problems with the BC canvas slacking off after stretching? In the last month or so we've had to re-stretch an alarming number of pieces that have slakened off visibly a week or two after stretching. Everything was fine before and nothing has changed with the procedure. Has anyone had similar problems?
Thanks
Doug
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I haven't had the slacking problem with BC canvas, but I have a possible solution to slack canvas that SOMETIMES works. Instead of re-stretching, try misting the back of the canvas with water from a spray bottle--not soaking it, of course, but quite damp. Often the canvas will shrink as it dries, pulling tight. This is also sometimes an effective way to remove dents in canvasses where they have been accidentally poked.
One additional comment about Glamour II. Unlike ClearShield Type C, which sprays fine from a siphon HVLP, Glamour II requires a gravity feed HVLP gun (as noted on the BC website). Even at the recommended dilution or above, Glamour II just doesn't work well with the siphon type gun (such as the inexpensive Wagner units). With the recommended dilution for spraying and the correct kind of gun however, I've had no problems at all with cracking, stretching problems, etc.
All this being said, I have a slight preference for ClearShield Type C. It's simply easier to use (easier to spray, able to be used with inexpensive siphon feed HVLP guns, requires no dilution, and seems to remain more flexible for somewhat longer than the Glamour II).
David V. Ward, Ph. D.
www.dvward.com
David V. Ward Fine Art Photography
My question:
Has anyone had recent problems with the BC canvas slacking off after stretching? In the last month or so we've had to re-stretch an alarming number of pieces that have slakened off visibly a week or two after stretching. Everything was fine before and nothing has changed with the procedure. Has anyone had similar problems?
Thanks
Doug
[/quote]
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Thanks David.
The slacking is too severe for the water trick, even with a little heat gun assist. I've gotten a little more information since posting the above and it might not be a canvas problem but I wanted to make sure no one else was having this problem.
Do you have some details on your method of spraying? Though I'm not doing the spraying myself I don't see any details other than the generic rolling instructions on the BC site and I'm not sure if my partner that does the coatings has seen it either. If you could give me a link and what thinning ratio, gun model etc that would be very much appreciated.
Note though that I've noticed the cracking even with multiple heavy roller applied coats as well and there does seem to be some variation in the cracking resistance. Some rolls seem to be able to go around a 90 degree corner without cracking even uncoated, others not. BC insisted it won't crack but we've sent them samples. Doubt it would be an issue but we are using matte:gloss of about 4:1.
For the size and number of pieces the only practical method is to staple them up and spray vertically -- are you spraying them in this manner or are they small enough to lay out horizontal. In my attempts to spray large pieces laid out flat there were serious puddle problems.
Thanks for the help....
Doug
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From my own experience, I have been using Glamour II for almost 2 years on several brands of canvas, including BCW. I have always sprayed it with a Wagner HVLP, works fine.
I dilute it 60/40, water/glamour II. It goes on very well and evenly.
IMO it sprays the same as Clearstar type C. Clear Star Type C out of the can is thinner. Based on appearances and smell, both Glamour II and Clearstar are made from similar stuff.
I have had only one batch of BCW crack, it was a 17" demo roll and I figured that that it was from an older batch. It got very brittle, and I had to reprint the images.
So far, I have not had any BCW slacken, all the rolls were purchased in the August/Sept 2008 timeframe. I have not purchased anything from them recently.
Paul Caldwell