Luminous Landscape Forum
Equipment & Techniques => Medium Format / Film / Digital Backs – and Large Sensor Photography => Topic started by: jmvdigital on October 22, 2008, 10:03:50 am
-
I'm looking for any advice on tripods and heads that anyone can offer up. I use a Phamiya with P30+ if that matters. In the past, I've always worked with ball heads with my 35mm gear. Currently, I have a fairly brand new Gitzo off-center ballhead. It's a beautiful head, but I despise the way the locking knob works. You have to screw and unscrew it about 4-5 revolutions to go from loose to locked; and if you don't get that knob extra tight, the camera will flap down at the most inopportune time. The knob just starts to wear on your fingers when you're shooting 200 shots at a location. I had a prior Bogen ballhead (smaller, and it would slack after locking) that would lock with just a quarter-turn knob.
I don't have anything against a ball head, they are super easy. Sometimes it's cumbersome to hold the camera precisely while you try to lock it down with the other hand. Fine adjustments can also be problematic, at least with the Gitzo, unless the knob is full open, ball movement is very sticky. A 3-way head would probably solve the handling with weight issue, as you don't have to hold the camera itself. But I haven't used a 3-way in a long time.
Is something like an RRS ball head that much different or better than a Gitzo? I do want to get into pano work in the future, if that matters at all. I know that RRS promotes using a ball head with their pano rails, either that or a leveling tripod. But those leveling tripods are pricey.
Thoughts much appreciated.
-
I would never use any ball heads but RRS. Have both the 50 and 40 and use both with my H2 and Phase Back. Used to use the Arca Swiss but stopped when it locked frozen in snowy weather. Never had the RRS heads lock up on me. they always work perfectly. Always use the Gitzo carbon fiber tripods too. Eleanor
I'm looking for any advice on tripods and heads that anyone can offer up. I use a Phamiya with P30+ if that matters. In the past, I've always worked with ball heads with my 35mm gear. Currently, I have a fairly brand new Gitzo off-center ballhead. It's a beautiful head, but I despise the way the locking knob works. You have to screw and unscrew it about 4-5 revolutions to go from loose to locked; and if you don't get that knob extra tight, the camera will flap down at the most inopportune time. The knob just starts to wear on your fingers when you're shooting 200 shots at a location. I had a prior Bogen ballhead (smaller, and it would slack after locking) that would lock with just a quarter-turn knob.
I don't have anything against a ball head, they are super easy. Sometimes it's cumbersome to hold the camera precisely while you try to lock it down with the other hand. Fine adjustments can also be problematic, at least with the Gitzo, unless the knob is full open, ball movement is very sticky. A 3-way head would probably solve the handling with weight issue, as you don't have to hold the camera itself. But I haven't used a 3-way in a long time.
Is something like an RRS ball head that much different or better than a Gitzo? I do want to get into pano work in the future, if that matters at all. I know that RRS promotes using a ball head with their pano rails, either that or a leveling tripod. But those leveling tripods are pricey.
Thoughts much appreciated.
-
Hi Justin,
I use a RRS BH-55 and I love the knob configuration. The locking knob is large and reliable. Drag is consistent. Each knob is sufficiently different so that I can tell them apart without looking. I will say that the ball movement is not as smooth as the Arca-Swiss ball, but the trade-offs are good for me.
BTW: I'm shooting a Mamiya AFD II w/ Phase P25+ and lenses from 35mm to 210mm, nothing big, but I'm not getting anywhere near the limits of the head. My legs are the Gitzo GT3541XLS and I have never been so pleased with a set of tripod legs.
HTH,
Dale
-
I'm looking for any advice on tripods and heads that anyone can offer up. I use a Phamiya with P30+ if that matters. In the past, I've always worked with ball heads with my 35mm gear. Currently, I have a fairly brand new Gitzo off-center ballhead. It's a beautiful head, but I despise the way the locking knob works. You have to screw and unscrew it about 4-5 revolutions to go from loose to locked; and if you don't get that knob extra tight, the camera will flap down at the most inopportune time. The knob just starts to wear on your fingers when you're shooting 200 shots at a location. I had a prior Bogen ballhead (smaller, and it would slack after locking) that would lock with just a quarter-turn knob.
I don't have anything against a ball head, they are super easy. Sometimes it's cumbersome to hold the camera precisely while you try to lock it down with the other hand. Fine adjustments can also be problematic, at least with the Gitzo, unless the knob is full open, ball movement is very sticky. A 3-way head would probably solve the handling with weight issue, as you don't have to hold the camera itself. But I haven't used a 3-way in a long time.
Is something like an RRS ball head that much different or better than a Gitzo? I do want to get into pano work in the future, if that matters at all. I know that RRS promotes using a ball head with their pano rails, either that or a leveling tripod. But those leveling tripods are pricey.
Thoughts much appreciated.
I use a Markins M10 with my 1DS2 & 70-200 lens, rock solid and smooth as silk. For precision work ( architecture ) I use a Manfrotto gear head.
-
I am using a Really Right Stuff BH-55 with a Gitzo series 5
-
I am using I use a Really Right Stuff BH-55 with a Gitzo series 5
Ditto here...
Also with a AFDII and P30..
Had a Gitzo before which I also loved but had it for 12 years and felt like changing.
No complaints on the RRS..
very nice.
I do find the black finish easy to mark up but very nice.
I have the one with realease plate that you have to screw on the plate not the quick release lever style one..
I also use it with my RZIIPro D with no problems either and that is a heavy set up. :+}
Snook
-
I too use the Gitzo off centre ball head - it's been out of action for months while I waited on Gitzo honouring me with a spare part under warranty which they have but it takes at least six weeks for the part to come from Italy to the UK. I ordered something off ebay last week from the far east and I had it within six days... Anyway, I was real impressed with a Foba ball & socket head which I used with my Blad / leaf setup. It was a bit heavy for my Gitzo legs though so I use it in the studio now on a stand. I think the smaller version they do with a quick release head would be pretty decent for MF on location
-
arca c1
expensive yes, but once you use it you forget about the cost. had mine for 3 years now and am as happy as the day i got it, never once regretted the money spent.
-
Well i was a died in the wool RRS ballhead fan ,actually had all three. Recently though I found the Gitzo GH2780 Center Ballhead http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/5624..._Ballhead_.html (http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/562408-REG/Gitzo_GH2780_GH2780_Center_Ballhead_.html)
Now i was never a fan of Gitzo heads the legs no question but what i like about this new head with my Phase P25 plus is that it has stronger friction going east and west but you can go north and south much easier (up and Down) . So you can have the head loose enough to tilt up and down but the side to side motion is much more friction . So when you get a horizontal you don't lose it using a tilt up and down. One other important feature is if you let go the head will not flop over with your camera. Need to try this head it is pretty cool on how it works. I bought the screw thread because than i put a RRS pano clamp on top of that . What I did not like about the Gitzo head is with some Arca plates you had to add adapters to get it to work correctly so one reason i went with the Pano clamp http://reallyrightstuff.com/rrs/Itemdesc.a...amp;eq=&Tp= (http://reallyrightstuff.com/rrs/Itemdesc.asp?ic=PCL%2D1&eq=&Tp=)
Now the other nice thing on the Pano clamp it is very smooth to rotate plus by adding a rail I can also do Pano's. i used this on a fashion shoot and it was a joy to work really fast with this without worrying about the head flopping over when I walked away. If it does flop it is forward or backward at it is a short travel so no damage.
-
I love my Burszynski head. Expensive but absolutely the most solid thing you can think of. It allows you to only open up slightly and being able to readjust. About half a turn will completely fasten the system again. The head itself is round so a RRS panohead fits nicely on top of it. The bottom of the head falls nicely in the 75mm bowl of most tripods so the whole contraption stays pretty close to the legs.
I use it with Nikon (up to 300, If I have longer I would use it) and Hasselblad with any lens combination.
I hated the older gitzo's with their rotten fastenings. I love the new ones with the new and improved fastening. I have the XLS version which goes to about 7ft without center colom!
-
Here is what i am currently using:
Head: Arca Swiss Z1 ball head, i agree with Eleanor that the other Arca's have problems but i have been in 14 degree snowy weather with the Z1 and no problems. It is a big improvment. The RRS heads are also great but i have come to really love the Z1. The Z1 will handle 122 pounds of payload, off center.
Tripod: Gitzo 5540LS 6X carbon fiber with lens coat padded leg covers (they sell a set specifically for the 5540LS). I do a lot of hiking with it on my shoulder and the padded leg covers are useful.
I also ordered the Gitzo series-5 flat plate (in black) to mount the Z1 ball head with.
For the camera mounting I picked the Kirk L-bracket for the H1/H2/H3 body (at the time RRS did not offer one, not sure if they do now). It mates solidly with the Z1 and the Kirk bracket connects to the H-series body with 2 screws at two different points, but the bracket is irrelevant to your Phase-Mamiya set up
This setup easily handles the H3DII39 with the ungainly and heavy HC 50-110 zoom lens as well as the HC 300mm.
The Gitzo has taken a beating since i often use it as a walking stick and it looks almost like new. The tripod and head are lightweight considering the carrying capacity and stability. The damping of thumps is fast at less than a few seconds.
You already have some great recomendations, hope this additional info is helpful.
Glenn
-
For easy precise alignment and fine adjustments, at very reasonable cost, have a look at the Manfrotto 410.
Nill
-
I currently use a RRS 55 with my Gitzo carbon tripod. Great combination. A little overkill when using my D300, but it makes me feel secure with the long lenses there too (combined with RRS mounts on the lenses).
I use the same set up with my AFD II and ZD Digital Back. Rock solid, even with the "basic" mounting plate. I will soon upgrade to the AFD L Mount just for more convenience and perceived increase in stability.
I used to have a a Gitzo off-center head and quickly got rid of it over the simpler and sturdier RRS system. Additionally, with the RRS system, there are all the other bits that you can acquire as 'needs' present themselves such as the pano kits, etc.
I am incredibly happy with the RRS system and their very personalized service.
Josh
-
I love my Burszynski head
I shall certainly try one too , but you cannot shoot portrait without a L plate I think ?
actually I have the 4 RRS ball-heads , I got yesterday their new MH-01 LR Monopod Head (http://reallyrightstuff.com/tripods/04.html) and I love it
-
The FF BH55 ball head is a good place to start if you haven't already made the purchase.
Paul C
-
Arca swiss Z1 is built like a tank. the action is super smooth. I guess between the z1 and rrs, it all comes down to personal choice but the quality and durability is a given.
-
I shall certainly try one too , but you cannot shoot portrait without a L plate I think ?
actually I have the 4 RRS ball-heads , I got yesterday their new MH-01 LR Monopod Head (http://reallyrightstuff.com/tripods/04.html) and I love it
Nope, the L-Plate stays on my H body all the time. I have put it on last year and just left it on since.
-
Thanks guys! I've decided to give the RRS BH-55 a try after the resounding recommendations. I threw in a nodal slide and L-bracket while I was at it. Ringing it at almost $1k, it better be a real nice system! I wanted to spring for the Omni Pro package, but that was just a little pricey all at once.
-J
-
You could consider a cheaper alternative. I've had a Feisol CD-50D ballhead (and carbon-fiber tripod) for some time now and can heartly recommend it. I've been using it with my day to day Canon 1Ds2 and occational shoot with a Mamiya RZ67. The head is very smooth, feels solid and just a joy to use. It's a 50mm type but they also have a 70mm one.
http://www.feisol.com/english/feisolen.htm (http://www.feisol.com/english/feisolen.htm)
-
I would never use any ball heads but RRS. Have both the 50 and 40 and use both with my H2 and Phase Back. Used to use the Arca Swiss but stopped when it locked frozen in snowy weather. Never had the RRS heads lock up on me. they always work perfectly. Always use the Gitzo carbon fiber tripods too. Eleanor
Same experience here as to RRS.
Bruce
-
I love my RRS BH-55 and BH-40, but for very precise and deliberate framing/alignment/adjustment, I switch to my Manfrotto 410.
Nill
-
Another happy Arca Swiss Z1 user here.
-
Arca Swiss C1 Cube.
Expensive? Yes, at first look.
By far the best tripod head i´ve ever used.
-
I will probably buy the Arca-Swiss Z1,
but don't understand why the panning lock is a teardrop lever that swings below the bottom level?
This is a problem especially when used in conjunction with a ground plate.
-
Arca Swiss C1 Cube.
Expensive? Yes, at first look.
By far the best tripod head i´ve ever used.
Amen. And once you use it you'll never go back to anything else
-
if you'll pay the prices of a mfdb, the cost of the c1 is inconsequential
it is a joy every time i use it
-
Nope, the L-Plate stays on my H body all the time. I have put it on last year and just left it on since.
I have a L plate on H body too
-
Wow, I'd never seen the C1 before. Pretty neat little contraption. It looks to be a bit clunky and ungraceful compared to a traditional geared head though. Is it just for precise studio and landscape work? I can't really see using it everyday on street and what not.
No matter, it's out of my price range. $2400 is consequential to me, ESPECIALLY since I invested so much so recently in my mfdb. Right now, my photography is more a labor of love than a high-paying career, but I'm getting there.
-J
-
clunky and ungraceful? maybe you should see one in person
didn't realize they were $2400 now, got mine when they were $1500
-
I love my RRS BH-55 and BH-40, but for very precise and deliberate framing/alignment/adjustment, I switch to my Manfrotto 410.
Nill
I have a soft spot for the Manfrotto (but use a Markins) I'd get a Manfrotto if they had a geared 3 way head without their clamping mechanism, I'm not in love with the idea of attaching one QR to another.
-
It looks to be a bit clunky and ungraceful compared to a traditional geared head though.
It is anything but clunky and ungraceful, exactly the opposite.
Is it just for precise studio and landscape work? I can't really see using it everyday on street and what not.
It is useful any time you want to level your camera quickly and perfectly, while also being able to make fine tune adjustments either to the horizontal or vertical axis without affecting the other one, all with no time wasted locking or unlocking anything; dial it in and you're done. In use, it is as close to perfection as you can get for a tripod head...
~~~
-
I agree with Jack. I have the Cube and a BH-55. If you are trying to shoot something that is going to be moving around, the cube is not the best choice but for landscapes, macro, buildings etc-- great choice.
I do have one comment mentioned by a poster above--- re: ballhead freezing in cold weather. I did have my BH-55 freeze once while in the mountains of Colorado so even that particular model is not immune from such occurrences.
It is anything but clunky and ungraceful, exactly the opposite.
It is useful any time you want to level your camera quickly and perfectly, while also being able to make fine tune adjustments either to the horizontal or vertical axis without affecting the other one, all with no time wasted locking or unlocking anything; dial it in and you're done. In use, it is as close to perfection as you can get for a tripod head...
~~~
-
The C1 does look tempting. I'll have to keep an eye out to see it in person.
In the meantime, my BH-55 came yesterday. Holy crap, it's on a whole other level than the Gitzo. The Gitzo feels like a $50 Bogen in comparison, and I thought it was a splurge at $350 something when I got it. The RRS ball has fantastic smoothness-- the knobs and build quality in general feels very precise and worth the cost.
I ordered it with the PCL rotator on top of the ball head (no QR), and got the short nodal rail and L-bracket to start with. They say the short rail is good for primes, which I'm obviously shooting. Anyone find a need for the longer rail with Mamiya lenses? Eventually I'll upgrade to the full Omni Pro package.
-J
-
Eventually I'll upgrade to the full Omni Pro package.
-J
Justin, PM me --- I have the "rest" of the Omni Pro package you need sitting unused in my camera cabinet and I'd be happy to make you a deal on it. Basically it is the OmniPro package missing one PCL: so from the bottom up, it includes the base rail, 90-degree vertical rail, upper PCL, and long sliding clamp rail all in the RRS pouch.
Sidebar note: The Cube's pivots are nodal to the clamp at the top of the head. For the rare occasion I need to do a multi-row pano, I find it is "close enough" to accommodate my needs and thus no longer use the Omni-pro parts.
Jack
-
food for thought:
Arca cube review (http://www.butzi.net/reviews/ArcaSwissC1.htm)
-
interesting review
have to say my experience is entirely different. i've used mine for years in all kinds of situations, never had one bit of trouble or fiddlyness.
much faster and more precise than the 410. that said there's nothing really wrong with the 410 either.
-
I use the Manfrotto 405 with a Sinar and a Betterlight scanback. Rock solid and a pleasure to use, even in the cold with gloved hands.
Kumar
-
Nope, the L-Plate stays on my H body all the time. I have put it on last year and just left it on since.
When I looked into an L plate for my H1 I had the impression that you lose the use of the flash synch plug ..... is that your experience?
David
-
David,
That's not the case at all (with my RRS),
especially if one mounts the L-bracket
further away from the side of the camera body.
That's my preference because the bracket then acts as a grip
like how it is with a Pentax 6x7 with its wooden grip.
Otherwise, a hotshoe to PC adapter is another solution
Billy
-
When I looked into an L plate for my H1 I had the impression that you lose the use of the flash synch plug ..... is that your experience?
David
Nope, you don't however.....
If you use a sync cable you have somewhat of a problem. It doesn't fit really well especially when the bracket is already fitted. If not you can fit the sync underneath the L-Bracket but in that case you have to unmount it before taking the cable of again. If RRS would have made a small dent in the bracket at the appropriate places it would have been ideal. Now, it works but I find it not optimal.
Anyway, in my case it became a lesser issue because now I use the Elinchrom skyport (of which I have 2) so it will be really an exception when I do use a sync cable.
Mounting the bracket further away from the body is not something I personally would like to do. I prefer to have it tight against the body so it is the sturdiest and keeps the whole package as small as possible.
-
Thanks Billy & Dustbak
-
manfrotto 405 is, as a few others have mentioned, nice...
-
manfrotto 405 is, as a few others have mentioned, nice...
I have RRS heads and they are the best but a ball head is not the best choice for archtitectural or product photography.
Here's a few pictures of my RRS modified Manfrotto 405 geared head. Anybody can modify their manfrotto heads since there's no drilling, milling or sawing. You need a reducing thread for the 1/4" screw. The RRS clamp fits the Manfrotto base perfectly. For perfect look I may have the gear head trimmed.
-
I have RRS heads and they are the best but a ball head is not the best choice for archtitectural or product photography.
Here's a few pictures of my RRS modified Manfrotto 405 geared head. Anybody can modify their manfrotto heads since there's no drilling, milling or sawing. You need a reducing thread for the 1/4" screw. The RRS clamp fits the Manfrotto base perfectly. For perfect look I may have the gear head trimmed.
man, this looks good, could you take another shot from a little beneath on the side where the lever for the quick release is? please! thank you in advance...heinrich
-
Here's my 410 with a Kirk Arca-compatible clamp simply bolted on top of the Manfrotto QR plate. It's a little [/i]clunky, but not nearly so bad as you might imagine.
(http://www.toulmephoto.com/misc/410head/081030-Bogen410-01.jpg)
And, for scale, here it is with a Canon 1-series body mounted via RRS L-plate.
(http://www.toulmephoto.com/misc/410head/081030-Bogen410-02.jpg)
Nill
p.s. Total investment, as I recall, about US$125. I got the head used for $100, the clamp used for $25 or so.
-
man, this looks good, could you take another shot from a little beneath on the side where the lever for the quick release is? please! thank you in advance...heinrich
Here are a few extra images of my modification. Also shown what you may have to do in order to get access to the screws holding the Manfrotto QR mechanism in place.
Depending how you'll attach your RRS head to the Manfrotto base you may need to enlarge the screw hole to fit your screw. My RRS QR plate is the one for Foba heads. This method is a bit stronger than Mr. Toulme shows but also more trouble. I don't like the idea of adding joints on top of joints so that's why I went this way.
-
Here are a few extra images of my modification. Also shown what you may have to do in order to get access to the screws holding the Manfrotto QR mechanism in place.
Depending how you'll attach your RRS head to the Manfrotto base you may need to enlarge the screw hole to fit your screw. My RRS QR plate is the one for Foba heads. This method is a bit stronger than Mr. Toulme shows but also more trouble. I don't like the idea of adding joints on top of joints so that's why I went this way.
dear patrik, thank you for the fast reply...really appreciate it...
-
As long we're into tripod head porn, here are some Cube pics:
(http://forum.getdpi.com/gallery/files/2/cube56.jpg)
(http://forum.getdpi.com/gallery/files/2/cube51.jpg)
(http://forum.getdpi.com/gallery/files/2/cubesize.jpg)
-
Patrik your solution is much more elegant than mine. ;-)
Nill
-
I´ve a Cullmann 40200 with Manfrotto 475B trippod for my Hasselblad H3DII and Sinar F2 and i think it´s a great convination.
Cullmann 40200 (http://www.cullmann-foto.de/en/products/tripods/magnesit/40200MAGNESIT35NmWB_Eng.htm)