Luminous Landscape Forum
Equipment & Techniques => Digital Cameras & Shooting Techniques => Topic started by: dwdallam on May 29, 2008, 05:34:12 am
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I've been seeing my 1DS3 doing much better calculating exposure when I use center weighted averaging rather than it's standard Evaluative mode when used in high contrast situations, or even medium contrast, or even pretty much any situation. Anyone else see this?
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I've been seeing my 1DS3 doing much better calculating exposure when I use center weighted averaging rather than it's standard Evaluative mode when used in high contrast situations, or even medium contrast, or even pretty much any situation. Anyone else see this?
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I havent done any 'real' scientific testing - but I have been using Centre Weighted Metering on my 1DS MKIII almost exclusivley with excellent results.
Evaluative is really - well.. to evaluative... for my liking and generally with the sort of subjects I shoot pretty useless. So I tend not to even both with it. I find its too much of a compromise between bright and dark areas in most situations.
I use spot metering a bit and also get great results - but my favourite metering mode for both portraits and landscape is centre weighted. Even when using split ND's I will usually use centre weighted to calculate my exposure.
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I've been seeing my 1DS3 doing much better calculating exposure when I use center weighted averaging rather than it's standard Evaluative mode when used in high contrast situations, or even medium contrast, or even pretty much any situation. Anyone else see this?
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I don't know what you'll find is "best."
I think there are probably 2 sensible metering modes:
1) Spot metering. Painstakingly evaluate your highlights and shadows and set the exposure. Maybe good for manual exposure... if you're going to set it and then take a bunch of shots quickly enough that you won't be able to adjust exposure for each shot.
2) Matrix metering. Heck, take a quick shot, look at the histogram, dial in exposure compensation, and get the RIGHT exposure. With practice, it takes about 2 seconds maximum to get a perfect exposure if you just use the histogram and compensate accordingly. Especially if you're using ETTR and have highlight warnings. Snap a picture, dial in EC, snap again, ensure you have no blinkies, and you're done.
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2) Matrix metering. Heck, take a quick shot, look at the histogram, dial in exposure compensation, and get the RIGHT exposure. With practice, it takes about 2 seconds maximum to get a perfect exposure if you just use the histogram and compensate accordingly. Especially if you're using ETTR and have highlight warnings. Snap a picture, dial in EC, snap again, ensure you have no blinkies, and you're done.
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That's pretty much what I do.
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I use the histogram too, but it seems like center weighted is given me about 98% accuracy so far. By "98%" I mean it's not under exposing or over exposing the subject, even in high contrast situations.
The Canon EOS-1Ds Mark III doesn't have matrix metering, unless I'm misreading or understanding the manual.
metering mode: 63 zone; evaluative, partial, center weighted, spot
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The Canon EOS-1Ds Mark III doesn't have matrix metering, unless I'm misreading or understanding the manual.
metering mode: 63 zone; evaluative, partial, center weighted, spot
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Matrix = Evaluative in Canon terms.
I tend to use partial rather than center-weighted which can be fooled quite easily and spot which is a bit too accurate for very fast shooting.
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Matrix = Evaluative in Canon terms.
I tend to use partial rather than center-weighted which can be fooled quite easily and spot which is a bit too accurate for very fast shooting.
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I was thinking that must be it.
I surely don't have any evidence except that which is anecdotal, but it seems that my 5D worked better using evaluative and the 1DS3 is better using center weighted. I could be wrong though.
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2) Matrix metering. Heck, take a quick shot, look at the histogram, dial in exposure compensation, and get the RIGHT exposure. With practice, it takes about 2 seconds maximum to get a perfect exposure if you just use the histogram and compensate accordingly. Especially if you're using ETTR and have highlight warnings. Snap a picture, dial in EC, snap again, ensure you have no blinkies, and you're done.
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It might be better indeed to use center-weighted than matrix ("evaluative" in Canon-speak) for that mode of operation, because center-weighted yields more consistently the same exposure, whereas if you use matrix it could vary more from shot to shot of identical compositions, depending on other facts such as the focus point, what falls under the central spot, etc..
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It might be better indeed to use center-weighted than matrix ("evaluative" in Canon-speak) for that mode of operation, because center-weighted yields more consistently the same exposure, whereas if you use matrix it could vary more from shot to shot of identical compositions, depending on other facts such as the focus point, what falls under the central spot, etc..
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I have been using evaluative metering and manual exposure with my 1DS III (same as I did with my 1DS II). Last weekend we had a great sky here and I shot seascapes Friday and Saturday. I did NOT check the histogram like I usually do (my technique was getting sloppy), and the shots were consistantly UNDEREXPOPSED, and dull. I usually expose to the right with the histogram, but didn't this time. I blew a great weekend sky! I might try center weighted (and pay attention to the histogram)
Dave
Beach Haven, NJ
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I must admit I tend to use Matrix metering with about +2/3 stop permanently dialed in. Check the histogram if it OK fine , if not quick re shoot , might give center weighted another go
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I must admit I tend to use Matrix metering with about +2/3 stop permanently dialed in. Check the histogram if it OK fine , if not quick re shoot , might give center weighted another go
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That's how I operate as well. Usually + 2/3.
I'll try center-weighted; if it's more accurate and I can work the same way... can't hurt to test it ;-)
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I have been using evaluative metering and manual exposure with my 1DS III (same as I did with my 1DS II). Last weekend we had a great sky here and I shot seascapes Friday and Saturday. I did NOT check the histogram like I usually do (my technique was getting sloppy), and the shots were consistantly UNDEREXPOPSED, and dull. I usually expose to the right with the histogram, but didn't this time. I blew a great weekend sky! I might try center weighted (and pay attention to the histogram)
Dave
Beach Haven, NJ
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Also if you meter the sky just above the horizon, right where the light starts to get darker, then use that reading, you will be pretty much exposed right on. Just a trick I picked up reading about the old days and exposure using film.
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That's how I operate as well. Usually + 2/3.
I'll try center-weighted; if it's more accurate and I can work the same way... can't hurt to test it ;-)
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The trouble with that is when you forget your +2/3 up. are you guys shooting with the 1DS3? If so, I've noticed the same thing. It seems it evaluative is not as accurate as I thought it might be, in fact, not too accurate most o the time, especially with back lighting, where I've found so far it's quite horrible. center weighted seems to take care of it nicely.