Luminous Landscape Forum
Equipment & Techniques => Medium Format / Film / Digital Backs – and Large Sensor Photography => Topic started by: dwdallam on February 23, 2008, 02:54:29 am
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Can someone give an outline how this works and the cost involved for each item, including lens choice? This is interesting to me and perhaps worth saving a year or two to invest in. Also, some pros and cons of using medium format compared to the MKIII, such as weather sealing, portability, and weight.
Please start without the components, such as back, body, etc. and their concomitant price averages. I mean how much is a 22MP MF system going to cost to get started?
Specifically, I've seen the video on the Phase one site:
http://www.phaseone.com/Content/p1digitalb...troduction.aspx (http://www.phaseone.com/Content/p1digitalbacks/Pplusseries/Introduction.aspx)
It looks like a bloated 35MM digital with similar portability. I'm only interested in MFs that are of this sort of portability.
Thanks.
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Can someone give an outline how this works and the cost involved for each item, including lens choice? This is interesting to me and perhaps worth saving a year or two to invest in. Also, some pros and cons of using medium format compared to the MKIII, such as weather sealing, portability, and weight.
Please start without the components, such as back, body, etc. and their concomitant price averages. I eman how much is a 22MP MF system going to cost to get started?
Thanks.
[a href=\"index.php?act=findpost&pid=176836\"][{POST_SNAPBACK}][/a]
Why are you considering MF ?
All the systems are expensive, slow overpriced and impractical with very few lense choices and have crap AF
I think a guide on price is about double canon for 22mp
There are of course specific reasons that MF can be the right choice for purchase but it would be nice to know yours !
S
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I recently jumped into MF on a budget. Mamiya AFD II (used), Phase 1 P30 (refurbished) etc. About $18 to $20k on a budget $40 -$50k cost no object. After a few months of use I would say a high end DSLR is a general purpose tool which can be used for many things (almost everything) the MFDB is a specialized tool for specific tasks. Tripod, backpack, a bunch of lenses etc. or studio use. The DSLR can be hand held for my daughters soccer games the MF camera cannot. I need a quick shot can't get it with the Mamiya. The files from my 5D/DxO have gorgeous colors the P30 takes work to get it looking good. The 5D looks good, the P30 looks detailed and accurate. I have been enjoying MF because it takes more effort and time, makes you work harder for the image. If you need speed or light weight DSLR, If you have time and 30-40 lbs doesn't bother you MF. I was surprised that the extra resolution did not make my prints look sharper but gave them smoother tones and more realistic details. I hope this partially answers your question.
Marc
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I basically ended up with using both MF as well as high-end DSLR. The MF I use for catalogue, packshots, still-life and most commercial work. The DSLR for everything I cannot use the MF.
Cost of MF is much higher than just double. Because I use it for work I figured I needed backup (2 backs, 2 bodies, etc..). Though MF backs are really reliable I still find they are somehow more vulnerable than a good DSLR. Backs kind of have an attitude, treat them well and they reward you, be careless and the results are below average.
I am addicted to the quality that comes out of the backs, color, detail, sharpness, etc.. Some clients can see this as well and some don't. I don't particularly care, I can see it and I enjoy using MF.
I would never consider MF as a replacement for DSLR or vice versa, the way of working and the results are too different.
Considering costs of a 22MP unit, that is very depending on how you are going to use it. If you can stay at 100ISO always the ZD is a very affordable option. All 22MP backs of all brands have things going for them, results from all can be outstanding. They can be bought for around 10K currently (second-hand) but I haven't been checking prices lately so maybe it is even less now.
Bodies and lenses vary greatly. Mamiya being the cheapest and widely available, Hasselblad H being the most expensive (not taking into consideration the new Hy6/Afi). Contax is somewhere in between. This is thinking about SLR style equipment.
I have also seen kits like the H3D22/39 come by as cheap as 13-15K (body/back/80mm). Maybe it is save to say you can get it for anything in between of 6K (Mamiya ZD) to above 15K.
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Deleted.
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Did you guys watch the video from the Phase I site I posted? Let me know what you think about that system.
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I don't know man.....
I have both MFDB and a 1ds3 and I find that I can get fantastic images out of both and really rather prefer the ease of the 1ds3 over the mfd.
Now.... I'm a commercial shooter who relies more on my "style" than my gear to promote my work. Back in the 80's and 90's my primary tools were 8X10 and 4X5.. MF seemed small then and was really only used for lifestyle type work. Now a days I feel that it's really more about end result so I'm quite comfortable with the quality of images out of the 1ds3. I'm not saying the image is better... just that it's good enough for me. I'm actually more concerned with lens quality than I am anything else these days.
If my job was to shoot archival reproductions of art/paintings then I'd use mfdb
if it's editorial... 35d
fine art.... film
fashion/lifestyle....35d
tabletop product/food/drink..... 35d or mfdb
achitectual..... 35d or mfdb
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I have had a look at the video you mentioned. Though I am a Nikon user I know for sure that everything that is shown in that video is handled better by the Canon!
None of the things specific to MFDB are being shown in that video.
Having said that, I know quite a few people that use phase&mamiya and are very happy with it. But... there will be something new from both Phase& Mamiya so it might be better to wait for that. Even when you are really opting for the AFDII & P25. I am quite sure those systems will be substantially cheaper after the introduction of a new system.
I don't know whether someone already has suggested it but try renting/borrowing this system first to get an impression.
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Did you guys watch the video from the Phase I site I posted? Let me know what you think about that system.
[a href=\"index.php?act=findpost&pid=176851\"][{POST_SNAPBACK}][/a]
No offense, but looking at your website I don't see why you would possibly need a DB. I say use what you got and develop your photography skills instead.
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If my job was to shoot archival reproductions of art/paintings then I'd use mfdb
if it's editorial... 35d
fine art.... film
fashion/lifestyle....35d
tabletop product/food/drink..... 35d or mfdb
achitectual..... 35d or mfdb
[a href=\"index.php?act=findpost&pid=176861\"][{POST_SNAPBACK}][/a]
Hurray! Ding ding ding.
Only reason I got the mfdb was for #1. I was using 35d for architecture, a scanback for repro, and 6x12 for FA, but just put it all together for a one camera solution. Now I have an overly nice camera for my piddly little market in architecture and fine art work, which is fine too Let's not even go into the time saving for shooting a piece of art with a scanback. NEVER NEVER again.
Obviously if you are shooting fashion/lifestyle in a big city and booking high profile jobs I'd add MFDB there too.
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Hurray! Ding ding ding.
Only reason I got the mfdb was for #1. I was using 35d for architecture, a scanback for repro, and 6x12 for FA, but just put it all together for a one camera solution. Now I have an overly nice camera for my piddly little market in architecture and fine art work, which is fine too Let's not even go into the time saving for shooting a piece of art with a scanback. NEVER NEVER again.
Obviously if you are shooting fashion/lifestyle in a big city and booking high profile jobs I'd add MFDB there too.
[a href=\"index.php?act=findpost&pid=176883\"][{POST_SNAPBACK}][/a]
dude... I know.... I used a betterlight scan back for a few years and I've actually repressed it out of my memory until you brought it up! NEVER! I loved it when I was 3 minutes into a scan and the AC would kick on and drop the hotlights by 25%. Also.... thank god scuzzy has gone the way of the dodo bird!
here's a peak into the future.... I've been shooting HD video for the past few years, and my newest camera the sony xdcam-ex1 has such clean 1920X1080 still frames that they actually look pretty good in print! The RED digital cinema camera goes to 4K ( 4000 X ? pixels ) and shoots 24 frames a second for as long as your hardrive(s) can hold it..... that's a 12MP camera! imagine shooting continuously for 20 mins and then just grab the shot you want in post!
I want one! only $20k with an eos lens mount... full frame 35! price does not include a cart of hardrive riads!
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dude... I know.... I used a betterlight scan back for a few years and I've actually repressed it out of my memory until you brought it up! NEVER! I loved it when I was 3 minutes into a scan and the AC would kick on and drop the hotlights by 25%. Also.... thank god scuzzy has gone the way of the dodo bird!
[a href=\"index.php?act=findpost&pid=176889\"][{POST_SNAPBACK}][/a]
Ahahahah. Yeah, I've been there. Funny thing about running hotlights, it gets hot, then your AC comes on! Then I switched to fluros and had interference banding, then to HID's and started to go broke. Hell, maybe the hassy really wasn't that expensive! In workflow mode with repro including proof printing I am well over 3x faster. I charge less than I used to and actually make a profit on the shooting, I used to loose money on the shoot and regain in printing.
To the OP. Looking at your work I see nothing that MFDB will make any better, and can think of many things MFDB will make much more difficult. The 1DSIII is a really sweet camera. If you still feel like you need MFDB check out the mamiya bundle. Amazing price point if you shoot at iso 100.
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I don't know man.....
I have both MFDB and a 1ds3 and I find that I can get fantastic images out of both and really rather prefer the ease of the 1ds3 over the mfd.
Now.... I'm a commercial shooter who relies more on my "style" than my gear to promote my work. Back in the 80's and 90's my primary tools were 8X10 and 4X5.. MF seemed small then and was really only used for lifestyle type work. Now a days I feel that it's really more about end result so I'm quite comfortable with the quality of images out of the 1ds3. I'm not saying the image is better... just that it's good enough for me. I'm actually more concerned with lens quality than I am anything else these days.
If my job was to shoot archival reproductions of art/paintings then I'd use mfdb
if it's editorial... 35d
fine art.... film
fashion/lifestyle....35d
tabletop product/food/drink..... 35d or mfdb
achitectual..... 35d or mfdb
[a href=\"index.php?act=findpost&pid=176861\"][{POST_SNAPBACK}][/a]
You missed out a few important things, imo.
MFDBs have better IQ at low ISO
MFDB will work on view cameras. Essential if you want to use lots of tilt/shift.
MFDB cameras offer much higher flash sync speeds (1/1000 on Hy6/6008 compared to 1/250)
MFDB cameras have larger viewfinders which help a lot with manual focus. Sometimes MF is necessary, and some people just prefer it.
MFDB sensors are easier to clean.
DSLRs have more wide angle lenses, and extreme telephoto too
DSLRs have rapid frame rate capability
DSLRs have lazy options such as shooting in JPEG format
DSLRs are better at high ISOs
DSLRs are cheaper and lighter
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You missed out a few important things, imo.
MFDBs have better IQ at low ISO
MFDB will work on view cameras. Essential if you want to use lots of tilt/shift.
MFDB cameras offer much higher flash sync speeds (1/1000 on Hy6/6008 compared to 1/250)
MFDB cameras have larger viewfinders which help a lot with manual focus. Sometimes MF is necessary, and some people just prefer it.
MFDB sensors are easier to clean.
DSLRs have more wide angle lenses, and extreme telephoto too
DSLRs have rapid frame rate capability
DSLRs have lazy options such as shooting in JPEG format
DSLRs are better at high ISOs
DSLRs are cheaper and lighter
[a href=\"index.php?act=findpost&pid=176894\"][{POST_SNAPBACK}][/a]
higher flash sync is only useful in certain strobe/avail light situations... one could always use ND or even put leaf shutter lens' on 35d cams
higher IQ is marginal other than resolution.
shift/tilt can be done with lens'
I personally feel that mfdb's main attribute is it's obvious professional physical appearance.
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higher flash sync is only useful in certain strobe/avail light situations... one could always use ND or even put leaf shutter lens' on 35d cams
higher IQ is marginal other than resolution.
shift/tilt can be done with lens'
I personally feel that mfdb's main attribute is it's obvious professional physical appearance.
[a href=\"index.php?act=findpost&pid=176919\"][{POST_SNAPBACK}][/a]
LOL Yeah, you got me there. I payed $20K to LOOK more professional. Give me a break.
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LOL Yeah, you got me there. I payed $20K to LOOK more professional. Give me a break.
[a href=\"index.php?act=findpost&pid=176924\"][{POST_SNAPBACK}][/a]
hard to swallow huh?
I think it really depends who your clients are.
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I personally feel that mfdb's main attribute is it's obvious professional physical appearance.
[a href=\"index.php?act=findpost&pid=176919\"][{POST_SNAPBACK}][/a]
That's a good one.
Now, what's the model you use that gives you that personal feeling?
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only $20k with an eos lens mount... full frame 35! price does not include a cart of hardrive riads!
The RED camcorder is awesome, but it's actually not fullframe 35 as we know in the photographic world of 35mm film and Canon FF/Nikon FX. It's a Super35, which is 24.4mm x 13.7mm. Kind of like a D300 that shoots really fast.
Have you tried any of the 35mm adapters, like the Letus35 ( http://www.letusdirect.com (http://www.letusdirect.com) ) on your Sony ex1?
I'd like to get back to shooting video someday. My old video rig is collecting dust.
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That's a good one.
Now, what's the model you use that gives you that personal feeling?
[a href=\"index.php?act=findpost&pid=176938\"][{POST_SNAPBACK}][/a]
the one with a built in self timer...hehe
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To Dwdallam- I think you should use whatever equipment is going to fulfill your vision, or perhaps your client's vision, and for most pros that I know, this means several different types of cameras and several different formats. Don't let the equipment dictate the aesthetics of your pictures. Decide what you want to achieve and use the proper equipment. Of course, this means that you'll need to become familiar with many different types of equipment, and the differences, in order to choose what will work best.
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To Dwdallam- I think you should use whatever equipment is going to fulfill your vision, or perhaps your client's vision, and for most pros that I know, this means several different types of cameras and several different formats. Don't let the equipment dictate the aesthetics of your pictures. Decide what you want to achieve and use the proper equipment. Of course, this means that you'll need to become familiar with many different types of equipment, and the differences, in order to choose what will work best.
[a href=\"index.php?act=findpost&pid=176949\"][{POST_SNAPBACK}][/a]
ya... for me, I like to dirty up my images in post.... I mean its nice to start with a really clean and proper image but then have the option to mess with it till it really speaks your vision.
I think a lot of art directors get their taste from comm arts, cmyk, and print magazines... then they kind of regergitate those looks and styles into their layouts.... dirty mangled scratched shalow dof is still the in look. at the same time they want us to have the best gear avail.
I knew my comments above would scratch a few blackboards.... just trying to keep the conversation lively.
I think what it comes down to is buy the best you can afford. and then push it to its limits!
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No offense, but looking at your website I don't see why you would possibly need a DB. I say use what you got and develop your photography skills instead.
[a href=\"index.php?act=findpost&pid=176871\"][{POST_SNAPBACK}][/a]
Why not do both?
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Hurray! Ding ding ding.
Only reason I got the mfdb was for #1. I was using 35d for architecture, a scanback for repro, and 6x12 for FA, but just put it all together for a one camera solution. Now I have an overly nice camera for my piddly little market in architecture and fine art work, which is fine too Let's not even go into the time saving for shooting a piece of art with a scanback. NEVER NEVER again.
Obviously if you are shooting fashion/lifestyle in a big city and booking high profile jobs I'd add MFDB there too.
[a href=\"index.php?act=findpost&pid=176883\"][{POST_SNAPBACK}][/a]
It's good information for sure, but I know first hand at least one fashion/commercial photographer in Manhattan using 5Ds in his studio and having no problems with quality as far as his clients go, which include the Dave Mathew's Band and the prince of India, who he shot for in the past. It surprised me, but one of his assistants (female friend) visited me here in CA last year, and showed me images she, and he, took of a shoot for a Broadway musical (I can't pronounce or spell it, but something like Cirque Dela sa?) . They used 5Ds.
I have no problem with the 5D shooting people portraits really. I don't see the need for much more, but maybe the MKII for the ability to increase crop and keep ppi up enough for larger prints, say 12 x 18 or so.
My question was only to obtain information on the quality, portability, and price point of MF kits.
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To the OP. Looking at your work I see nothing that MFDB will make any better, and can think of many things MFDB will make much more difficult. The 1DSIII is a really sweet camera. If you still feel like you need MFDB check out the mamiya bundle. Amazing price point if you shoot at iso 100.
[a href=\"index.php?act=findpost&pid=176891\"][{POST_SNAPBACK}][/a]
That's good to know because I really could care less about learning new systems--as one person put it, keep practicing photography--and I don't care what i use, as long as it's good enough for my work and clients. I agree with that philosophy 100%, but wanted to make sure I wasn't spending money in the wrong place. However, my "website" is 700 pixels either direction, which is REALLY small, and they are pretty much straight out of the RAW converter onto the web page, resized using an upload applet, and set to sRGB without me even looking at the results. I just can't get too interested in my "web presence" right now because I'm busy doing other things. When I print, I print as large as 20 x 30. If the MKIII is going to give me enough quality to print at that resolution compared to a MF, then of course I'd go hands down with the MKIII.
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You missed out a few important things, imo.
MFDBs have better IQ at low ISO
MFDB will work on view cameras. Essential if you want to use lots of tilt/shift.
MFDB cameras offer much higher flash sync speeds (1/1000 on Hy6/6008 compared to 1/250)
MFDB cameras have larger viewfinders which help a lot with manual focus. Sometimes MF is necessary, and some people just prefer it.
MFDB sensors are easier to clean.
DSLRs have more wide angle lenses, and extreme telephoto too
DSLRs have rapid frame rate capability
DSLRs have lazy options such as shooting in JPEG format
DSLRs are better at high ISOs
DSLRs are cheaper and lighter
[a href=\"index.php?act=findpost&pid=176894\"][{POST_SNAPBACK}][/a]
Very nice run down. you get a A+ for coherence and being concise. Clear, crisp, and capable! lol
I appreciate your time.
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hard to swallow huh?
I think it really depends who your clients are.
[a href=\"index.php?act=findpost&pid=176937\"][{POST_SNAPBACK}][/a]
I'll probably never be at the level you all are, but I think this is an accurate assessment of the situation overall.
I shot a client for advertising "head shots." The agency said they didn't want anything fashion, fine art, or other oriented, but clean, head and 3/4 shots with only matte on the face to cut down on reflections so they could really see what the model looked like, from body to skin texture. They were more than pleased with the results from my 5D because that's all they needed. They didn't inquire into the equipment I was using. The client found my website and called me--go figure since the website isn't yet even an honest attempt to market myself, with mostly old stuff.
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To Dwdallam- I think you should use whatever equipment is going to fulfill your vision, or perhaps your client's vision, and for most pros that I know, this means several different types of cameras and several different formats. Don't let the equipment dictate the aesthetics of your pictures. Decide what you want to achieve and use the proper equipment. Of course, this means that you'll need to become familiar with many different types of equipment, and the differences, in order to choose what will work best.
[a href=\"index.php?act=findpost&pid=176949\"][{POST_SNAPBACK}][/a]
James, of course.
I just didn't know the intricacies of MF and wanted to understand IF I needed one at this point.
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higher flash sync is only useful in certain strobe/avail light situations... one could always use ND or even put leaf shutter lens' on 35d cams
[a href=\"index.php?act=findpost&pid=176919\"][{POST_SNAPBACK}][/a]
Not so sure about that. My 5D has a maximum flash sync of 1/200th. That's not enough to freeze movement in acrobatic dance sequences, for example.
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Not so sure about that. My 5D has a maximum flash sync of 1/200th. That's not enough to freeze movement in acrobatic dance sequences, for example.
[a href=\"index.php?act=findpost&pid=176997\"][{POST_SNAPBACK}][/a]
Freezing motion with with strobes is based on flash duration and not shutter speed.
The adavantage of high sync speeds is to be able to control ambient light mixed with strobes.
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Freezing motion with with strobes is based on flash duration and not shutter speed.
The advantage of high sync speeds is to be able to control ambient light mixed with strobes.
[a href=\"index.php?act=findpost&pid=177029\"][{POST_SNAPBACK}][/a]
You are right klane. Seems many are confused these days.
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You are right klane. Seems many are confused these days.
[a href=\"index.php?act=findpost&pid=177032\"][{POST_SNAPBACK}][/a]
I'm gonna take a logical stab at this, but I I may be missing the point:
This is technically correct, but only when the flash is the ONLY light available. If there is ambient light, and your shutter stays open long enough to record it AFTER the strobe fires, then you get a blurring effect when the subject is moving, such as when shooting acrobats in an uncontrolled environment, or even when you don't want the acrobat to land on his or her head due to pitch black studio controls. You could, I suppose, raise the strobe to a very high output and use a very high fStop to black out ambient light. But what if you don't want a really high fStop and you have ambient light?
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I'm gonna take a logical stab at this, but I I may be missing the point:
This is technically correct, but only when the flash is the ONLY light available. If there is ambient light, and your shutter stays open long enough to record it AFTER the strobe fires, then you get a blurring effect when the subject is moving, such as when shooting acrobats in an uncontrolled environment, or even when you don't want the acrobat to land on his or her head due to pitch black studio controls. You could, I suppose, raise the strobe to a very high output and use a very high fStop to black out ambient light. But what if you don't want a really high fStop and you have ambient light?
[a href=\"index.php?act=findpost&pid=177033\"][{POST_SNAPBACK}][/a]
Higher output may end up giving you longer duration. You need to check specs of the strobes you want to use. One way is to use several similar strobes and share the lighting load.
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higher flash sync is only useful in certain strobe/avail light situations... one could always use ND or even put leaf shutter lens' on 35d cams
That's not the same.
higher IQ is marginal other than resolution.
Which MFDB system do you use? I found the colour and especially shadows of the MFDB much better than Canon. The dynamic range is better and the files look much better after being pushed in P'shop.
shift/tilt can be done with lens'
I guess you missed my point. Get a view cam and you have lots of movement across all focal lengths. No 35mm system can even begin to compare.
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I'm gonna take a logical stab at this, but I I may be missing the point:
This is technically correct, but only when the flash is the ONLY light available. If there is ambient light, and your shutter stays open long enough to record it AFTER the strobe fires, then you get a blurring effect when the subject is moving, such as when shooting acrobats in an uncontrolled environment, or even when you don't want the acrobat to land on his or her head due to pitch black studio controls. You could, I suppose, raise the strobe to a very high output and use a very high fStop to black out ambient light. But what if you don't want a really high fStop and you have ambient light?
[a href=\"index.php?act=findpost&pid=177033\"][{POST_SNAPBACK}][/a]
You're on the right track. You could either run out of higher apertures, or not want that large a DOF, or run out of flash power. There is no substitute for leaf shutter lenses with flash sync at all shutter speeds.
Henry makes a good point too. Higher flash output generally means longer flash duration which is usually not desirable.
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Using a tilt shift lens on a 35mm body doesn't compare to a viewcamera, but is has the undeniable advantage of hand held portability and speed, try tht with a Sinar p. if you just need a bit of tilt or shift it is a fantastic tool, which allows images not possible with a techical camera
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It's good information for sure, but I know first hand at least one fashion/commercial photographer in Manhattan using 5Ds in his studio and having no problems with quality as far as his clients go, which include the Dave Mathew's Band and the prince of India, who he shot for in the past. It surprised me, but one of his assistants (female friend) visited me here in CA last year, and showed me images she, and he, took of a shoot for a Broadway musical (I can't pronounce or spell it, but something like Cirque Dela sa?) . They used 5Ds.
I have no problem with the 5D shooting people portraits really. I don't see the need for much more, but maybe the MKII for the ability to increase crop and keep ppi up enough for larger prints, say 12 x 18 or so.
My question was only to obtain information on the quality, portability, and price point of MF kits.
[a href=\"index.php?act=findpost&pid=176988\"][{POST_SNAPBACK}][/a]
So now I am lost. Now the 5D is good enough for commercial work far exceeding yours (and mine for that matter). All I mentioned is that for a large city fashion shooter a MFDB is a justifiable option, as is a 5D, as is a holga. I certainly didn't say the 5D wasn't good enough.
If all you want to obtain is those 3 things then you just need to visit a dealer? Portability and price point are obvious, and quality can be determined by a demo. Asking random people on the internet how to spend your money is a little questionable. If you want 20x24's, shoot a day on the 1Ds3, and a day with a MFDB and print them. Decision made in the only logical manner.
Oh, I watched the video. Looked like a bunch of marketing crap to me. Owning a Hasselblad I've had my fill of marketing crap thank you
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If you want 20x24's, shoot a day on the 1Ds3, and a day with a MFDB and print them.
...and push the files around a bit in Photoshop. Shoot natural skin. Pick a scene demanding high dynamic range. Try to capture a range of colours, etc.
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So now I am lost. Now the 5D is good enough for commercial work far exceeding yours (and mine for that matter). All I mentioned is that for a large city fashion shooter a MFDB is a justifiable option, as is a 5D, as is a holga. I certainly didn't say the 5D wasn't good enough.
If all you want to obtain is those 3 things then you just need to visit a dealer? Portability and price point are obvious, and quality can be determined by a demo. Asking random people on the internet how to spend your money is a little questionable. If you want 20x24's, shoot a day on the 1Ds3, and a day with a MFDB and print them. Decision made in the only logical manner.
Oh, I watched the video. Looked like a bunch of marketing crap to me. Owning a Hasselblad I've had my fill of marketing crap thank you
[a href=\"index.php?act=findpost&pid=177076\"][{POST_SNAPBACK}][/a]
Yeah the marketing was really obvious, but I had nothing to compare it to. My point about the 5D was that printing smaller files, such that get no bigger than 12 x 12 in either direction, and doing commercial work as I explained and the same size, the 5D seems to work for a great amount of clients. He bought them because he needed 5-10 cameras, and the MKIIIs would have been a LOT more. However, and I might be wrong about this, I think the Broadway dance/musical did print posters in the 20x30 range. I could be mistaken though.
I think after reading all of your comments, I'll stick with the MKIII. At this point, it will do everything I need it to do and be easily portable--relatively speaking.