Luminous Landscape Forum
Equipment & Techniques => Medium Format / Film / Digital Backs – and Large Sensor Photography => Topic started by: RicAgu on December 14, 2007, 11:39:37 pm
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Well,
I was missing my RZ so much, but I wasn't going to leave my H1 behind either.
In steps Leaf and makes this plate to mount an H mounted Aptus onto the RZ.
Well I buy it.
I then get the One Shot cable from Kapture Group. All is working perfectly. But how do I hold and fire the cable.
In step the SUPER Stars at SK Grimes
Custom make me a Right handed Grip with a built in cable release through the handle. Using some old Graflex grip and a custom machined Arca Style plate.
It has been working like a charm! THe problem is the battery life of the RZ. it is eating through batteries like my Contax use to.
I have attached some pictures. Excuse the crudeness of the images and the mess of the studio. Figured you would all appreciate the Frankencam.
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Looks amazing. I too miss the RZ - does anyone know if the leaf adapter plate also works with Phase backs? Or if any other solutions exist? How much does the Leaf adapter cost? I can't find it mentioned anywhere.
congrats!
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This is for PHASE backs.
I use a P25 and P45
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Why do you like the RZ so much and want to do this
It is 'just' the rotating back and ease of shooting uprights
Or is there more
S
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How much does the adapter cost? Part number? I had no idea this existed. Thanks Ric!
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How much does the adapter cost? Part number? I had no idea this existed. Thanks Ric!
[a href=\"index.php?act=findpost&pid=160817\"][{POST_SNAPBACK}][/a]
406 GBP (slightly less in US$) and comes complete with a sync cord and a focusing screen
Par number is 518-02181A
Yair
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Sam,
I love the ease of the Mamiya!
The sharpness/Softness of the lenses. There is something about the files that are different. THere is an interaction that is different with the subject. There is an ease of focus that I have not found with anything since the Rollei 6008.
If the hy6 was available with Phase I would sell everything and go for it.
There is an interaction between the subject that happens differently depending on the camera I use. I use everything from a Holga upwards to an Arca Swiss Monolith 4x5. The only thing I have given up has been 8x10. And I only used it a handful of times at that. it was always too cumbersom when I did use it.
This works problem free for me and gets me everything I want!
Best to all of you and your quest for your shooting solution.
Ric
Why do you like the RZ so much and want to do this
It is 'just' the rotating back and ease of shooting uprights
Or is there more
S
[a href=\"index.php?act=findpost&pid=160805\"][{POST_SNAPBACK}][/a]
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Why do you like the RZ so much and want to do this
It is 'just' the rotating back and ease of shooting uprights
Or is there more
S
[{POST_SNAPBACK}][/a] (http://index.php?act=findpost&pid=160805\")
Morgan,
Shoot once a close headshot with Rz 110mm open at 2.8 and than switch to HC 100mm or 50/110 and you would be sold on RZ for life. My A75S is H1 mount but my Hassy just collects dust.
The good thing is that with Leaf you do not have to go the Frankenshtein way since only synch cable is needed. Smooth work, never any problems.
[a href=\"http://Http://AndreNapier.com]Http://AndreNapier.com[/url]
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I think I know what you mean but if you look at my 'lifestyle' book I dont think the blad looks that bad - mainly with the HC80 - they have 'the look' IMO
(and there are a couple of images there with a D80 and a 28PC !)
I could see shooting on 67 had a different look completely but on a 645 chip I am not so sure
Unlike you two I would probably better concentrate on better models/locations/MUAs/retouches
Maybe you would care to post some examples of the RZ v the H and show this mythical look
While I dont 'bond' with my blad in the same way that I did with my F3 or whatever old manual camera I had it is still a wonderful tool and ulitmately subject matter is all
There are of coulrse options with the H1 and old hassy glass - any comments on that
SMM
ps - idiot questions
- the RZ is manual focus ?
- the RZ doesnt allow movements ?
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ps - idiot questions
- the RZ doesnt allow movements ?
[a href=\"index.php?act=findpost&pid=160883\"][{POST_SNAPBACK}][/a]
I'm sure you know that it does with Mamiya Tilt / Shift Adapter.
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I love my RZ67 too. My wife calls it Mammamia :-P
You just need to add the G3 bellow shade to take it to the next level :-D
Actually Markus Klinko has about the same setup (with one handgrip on every side though) and the Leaf 75 back on it. Another one of his cameras is the Fuji 680 also with the Leaf back. He's really into "Frankenstein" cameras.
I was thinking about following the concept and getting a back for my RZ just to do studio work (too big and inconvinient for location). I'd go with Leaf if there were not so many problems known to the public (centerfold problems and such) and I still don't see the windows software that was promissed I guess over 2 years ago.
So waiting for Leaf to finally deliver seems to be a waste of time. Although I liked the BW frames I've seen from Markus.
How is the adapter you have working out focus-wise? I guess there are no shims delivered with it? How would you adjust if the focus is not perfect from the get-go?
I wonder if there's going to be a way to mount a PhaseOne back onto a Sinar/Rollei HY6 and what mount it would require to switch the back between the Mammamia and the Hy6. Now with Hasselblad locking all other guys of the game it's getting harder and harder to find usable camera systems to put the backs on. I know I'm never going to take a Mam 645 AFD type of camera into my hands again with it's slow x-sync. I will never understand why P1 didn't jump onto the HY6 bandwagon.
Cheers
B
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Well, maybe they don't have to jump onto the Hy6 bandwagon because they're building a new camera with Mamiya now.
Soon we can buy one Phase back and use it on 3 cameras: 645AFD, RZ, and the mystery camera. LOL
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[span style=\'font-size:11pt;line-height:100%\'] I like the idea [/span]
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[span style=\'font-size:11pt;line-height:100%\'] I like the idea [/span]
[a href=\"index.php?act=findpost&pid=160929\"][{POST_SNAPBACK}][/a]
Yeh Boris they are making a new body and making LEAF shutter lens so your sync problems will be solved!!
atleast that is what I am hoping for...
I bought an AFDII and RZ lately. The RZ for the sync at 400/th and the AFDII for all the other stuff..:+}
I hope mamiya comes out with the Leafshutter lens very soon..
Snook
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Well,
I was missing my RZ so much, but I wasn't going to leave my H1 behind either.
In steps Leaf and makes this plate to mount an H mounted Aptus onto the RZ.
Well I buy it.
I then get the One Shot cable from Kapture Group. All is working perfectly. But how do I hold and fire the cable.
In step the SUPER Stars at SK Grimes
Custom make me a Right handed Grip with a built in cable release through the handle. Using some old Graflex grip and a custom machined Arca Style plate.
It has been working like a charm! THe problem is the battery life of the RZ. it is eating through batteries like my Contax use to.
I have attached some pictures. Excuse the crudeness of the images and the mess of the studio. Figured you would all appreciate the Frankencam.
[a href=\"index.php?act=findpost&pid=160787\"][{POST_SNAPBACK}][/a]
Richard:
Over the years I have found that if you keep the adapter plate connected to the RZ when you are not shooting, like at night, it drains the battery. For years everytime we went to do a P1 demo with customers who shot Mamiya, the battery drain issue came up. The AFD 645 camera body has the same issue. Even if you turn offthe Mamiya RZ body and AFDII body they still drain the camera body when a back is attached. I do not see that with any other system. many of my clients will pull the battery pack from the AFDII body at the end of the day. The RZ requires you to take the adapter off because when it is on it continues to use battery power from the body. We have even sent bodies back to Mamiya and they could not find anything wrong with them. Maybe now that P1 and Mamiya are working so closely now they can figure this out. Or maybe I am wrong and some one will chime in a teach us all something.
Chris Snipes
Image Productions
www.imageproduction.com
chris@imageproduction.com
Phase One Test Studio Florida
New and Used Phase One backs
Phase One Support Production Motorhome
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I really like the custom right-handed grip. Is it heavy? I could really use something like it/
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Chris, are you talking about the Phase One electronic adapter for the RZIID for the 645AFD mount backs?
I have a PDF file that says this regarding the Mamiya RZIID body and a P25:
"When the P25 is placed on the body and not in use, the selector should be set to the ORANGE dot, to avoid draining the small battery. Even if the P25 is turned off, the battery will drain slowly if selector is not at the orange dot."
I don't know, maybe you already know this?
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I love my RZ67 too. My wife calls it Mammamia :-P
How is the adapter you have working out focus-wise? I guess there are no shims delivered with it? How would you adjust if the focus is not perfect from the get-go?
B
[{POST_SNAPBACK}][/a] (http://index.php?act=findpost&pid=160892\")
Boris,
Mamiya Rz focusing screen is adjustable. It sits on three screws that can be raised up and down. It requires special screw driver available from Mamiya. I got one if a member of LL needs to borrow it.
The process of adjusting the screen to perfect focus with any DB is very easy. No shims needed ever.
[a href=\"http://AndreNapier.com]http://AndreNapier.com[/url]
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I think I know what you mean but if you look at my 'lifestyle' book I dont think the blad looks that bad - mainly with the HC80 - they have 'the look' IMO
(and there are a couple of images there with a D80 and a 28PC !)
I could see shooting on 67 had a different look completely but on a 645 chip I am not so sure
Unlike you two I would probably better concentrate on better models/locations/MUAs/retouches
Maybe you would care to post some examples of the RZ v the H and show this mythical look
While I dont 'bond' with my blad in the same way that I did with my F3 or whatever old manual camera I had it is still a wonderful tool and ulitmately subject matter is all
There are of coulrse options with the H1 and old hassy glass - any comments on that
SMM
ps - idiot questions
- the RZ is manual focus ?
- the RZ doesnt allow movements ?
[{POST_SNAPBACK}][/a] (http://index.php?act=findpost&pid=160883\")
Morgan,
I can not figure out how using Rz would take away your concentration from better models/locations/MUAs/retouches.
Rz is the easiest camera to manually focus with WLF as the objects just snap in focus.
It is relatively very light if you do not use prism finder.
Average lens price on Ebay $250
Amazing range of lenses: 37mm, 50, 65, 75, 90, 110, 127, 140, 150, 180, 210, 250, 350 and 500mm.
but I can see that for someone that bonded with F3 the Hassy H is much closer home than RZ.
I will not post pics of Rz vs H because it simply not make sens to open this Pandora box.
[a href=\"http://Http://AndreNapier.com]Http://AndreNapier.com[/url]
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Morgan,
I can not figure out how using Rz would take away your concentration from better models/locations/MUAs/retouches. ...
I will not post pics of Rz vs H because it simply not make sens to open this Pandora box.
Http://AndreNapier.com (http://Http://AndreNapier.com)
[a href=\"index.php?act=findpost&pid=161318\"][{POST_SNAPBACK}][/a]
Because one is thinking cameras (or reading LL etc) one is not doing something else and there is finite time to do everything
Lenses
go on open the box or PM me a link to a couple of 30cm high jpgs at 8
SMM
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Andre,
I just couldn't believe what you said so I opened the pelican case, got my Mammamiya out and took off the AE viewfinder. I still didn't see it at first but then it hits me... it's under the 3 things that hold the replacable focus screen.
Thanks a lot. One concern less.
Boris,
Mamiya Rz focusing screen is adjustable. It sits on three screws that can be raised up and down. It requires special screw driver available from Mamiya. I got one if a member of LL needs to borrow it.
The process of adjusting the screen to perfect focus with any DB is very easy. No shims needed ever.
http://AndreNapier.com (http://AndreNapier.com)
[a href=\"index.php?act=findpost&pid=161315\"][{POST_SNAPBACK}][/a]
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Sam,
There is nothing wrong with the Hasselblad. It is just different shooting with the RZ.
If you like the Hasselbled, then good for you.
When I shot film I had everything under the sun. I shot Pentax 67, RZ, Contax 645 with Pentax glass, hassy glass and contax glass via adapters. As I went digital I was locked into two systems either Canon or Hasselabld H series until the V adapter came out. Although focusing was a BITCH with V lenses on the H.
Already committed to the H mount I look for ways to at least open my options. I actually went out and bought film the other day for the first time in three years.
IN hindsight I should have maybe stayed with Contax. But I had too many problems with the system. Some people didn't. I had two bodies and one was always in NJ being repaired. Every Contax I had from the 645 down to the small 35mm point shoots had problems. I guess I was not lucky with Contax. My Mamiya's and Pentax 67 have been dropped and been in tough situations and always worked. Mind you, the P67 went in for new winding cranks every couple of years, but I had seven bodies. The RZ lenses use to go in for shutter repair every few years. My Contax use to go in every couple of months. All got the same use as well.
So I hated the system! Maybe I got lemons, who knows. THE phase is the only system that for me has been perfect with no problems. If people are happy with their Aptus's, more power to them or Sinar or Hasselabld Digital backs. GREAT!
I don't have comparisons. When I get on set and use something that is it. I rarely change but I like to have the option depending on how I feel.
Best of luck
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Very pretty Rig you have there ;)
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The RZ is a great camera, but The real limitation of shooting digital with it is the 50% crop.
You lose most of the magic of the 110 2.8, but most of all the viewfinders are optimized for 6x7 not a crop sensor.
You would think that Phase Mamiya would make a better viewfinder with a magnification that is appropriate for the precision
required due to the higher definition crammed into smaller sensors that the original 6x7 film.
It seems that the MF camera manufactures have been taken over by scanner makers or something.
Using the RZ prism was already a stretch with 6x7 film....
Hasselblad used to make a moving high magnification loup, but dumped that..
Fuji in my opinion got the viewfinders right.
Very large rear elements and multiple prisms as well as a mobile high magnification loup.
(http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7121/7600908744_becbe2c10f_b.jpg)
Before packing up the camera in the studio today I took a quick video of the loup.
Fuji loup video (http://youtu.be/V74h4VaQSQ4)
The loup moves around without touching the focusing screen and It opens up to view the whole screen including beyond the composition.