Luminous Landscape Forum
Equipment & Techniques => Medium Format / Film / Digital Backs – and Large Sensor Photography => Topic started by: Henry Goh on August 27, 2007, 07:38:19 am
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Anyone have experience with them? How is IQ? Any major issues known? Wanting to use them with V series Hasselblads. Any thing that I should take note of? Thanks for any inputs.
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They are great. I am still using my 384C back and ever since i use the latest flexcolor verion IQ is as good as any other recent back. Even high iso is perfect ( for an older back). The nice thing is that i can use it on whatever camera i like because of the I-adapters. Flexcolor is probably the best converter there is! (but is completely mis-understood by most people.) This software is basic, easy to use but does the job as it is supposed to.
Just go for it.
I was trying to sell my 384 back but with no succes.... until I realised that for pack-shots, small printing stuff i don't need 39Mp, so now i am using the back almost every day again.
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They are great. I am still using my 384C back and ever since i use the latest flexcolor verion IQ is as good as any other recent back. Even high iso is perfect ( for an older back). The nice thing is that i can use it on whatever camera i like because of the I-adapters. Flexcolor is probably the best converter there is! (but is completely mis-understood by most people.) This software is basic, easy to use but does the job as it is supposed to.
Just go for it.
I was trying to sell my 384 back but with no succes.... until I realised that for pack-shots, small printing stuff i don't need 39Mp, so now i am using the back almost every day again.
[a href=\"index.php?act=findpost&pid=135788\"][{POST_SNAPBACK}][/a]
Thank you very much for sharing your experience. Any chance of seeing some files, even RAWs?? Really encouraging for me because I only need to use in the studio for shooting small products.
Regards,
Henry
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I have an example that i made for potential buyers. it shows the difference between one/multi and microstep. In multi and microstep, quality is already better than the recent 39Mp backs because no information is interpolated. Every pixel and color is recorded. Therefore, whenever you should find such a multishot back, goi for it. But also in one-shot, an imacon delivers perfect quality. Al those stories about inferior colour and IQ was thrue in the past millenium, with flexcolor 1 and their first backs. But even very old back's do perform very good when used with latest flexcolor versions, and without the need for an expensive upgrade such as needed with other brands.
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I have an example that i made for potential buyers. it shows the difference between one/multi and microstep.
[a href=\"index.php?act=findpost&pid=135798\"][{POST_SNAPBACK}][/a]
Thank you very much. I really have to go look closely at Imacon as more and more people sell off the old backs to upgrade.
Henry
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Hi,
I have an Imacon 132c that has been the most reliable piece of hardware that I have ever owned. I really can't say enough good about it. If you want any raw files let me know and I can share some with you. Send me an email via the contact page on my site if you like. There is even a forum for users headed up by Nick T which has been a good resource to have. The tech support has been excellent as well. All around a good experience. I am in the process of upgrading to the CF39 shortly.
Alex Jones, Digital Tech Pittsburgh PA
http://www.alexrjones.com/alexrjones/contact.html (http://www.alexrjones.com/alexrjones/contact.html)
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Highly recommend the Imacon/Hasselblad backs....
My 384 has been a workhorse over the past 4 years, and I second what Alex says... (Alex, are you getting the multi shot 39M?)
Peter.
http://peterschafrick.com/ (http://peterschafrick.com/)
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Hi,
I have an Imacon 132c that has been the most reliable piece of hardware that I have ever owned. I really can't say enough good about it. If you want any raw files let me know and I can share some with you. Send me an email via the contact page on my site if you like. There is even a forum for users headed up by Nick T which has been a good resource to have. The tech support has been excellent as well. All around a good experience. I am in the process of upgrading to the CF39 shortly.
Alex Jones, Digital Tech Pittsburgh PA
http://www.alexrjones.com/alexrjones/contact.html (http://www.alexrjones.com/alexrjones/contact.html)
[a href=\"index.php?act=findpost&pid=135838\"][{POST_SNAPBACK}][/a]
Thanks Alex. Shot off an email to you.
Henry
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Highly recommend the Imacon/Hasselblad backs....
My 384 has been a workhorse over the past 4 years, and I second what Alex says... (Alex, are you getting the multi shot 39M?)
Peter.
http://peterschafrick.com/ (http://peterschafrick.com/)
[a href=\"index.php?act=findpost&pid=135848\"][{POST_SNAPBACK}][/a]
Great to hear Peter. Love your images too.
Henry
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Hi Henry,
What back are you looking for ???
Best regards, raf
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Hi Henry,
What back are you looking for ???
Best regards, raf
[a href=\"index.php?act=findpost&pid=135854\"][{POST_SNAPBACK}][/a]
raf,
No particular brand but around 22Mp would be sufficient for me. Prefer to use on Hasselblad V system since I have 3 bodies and a few lenses to start with. I'll move to newer backs / platform later when prices are less crazy, I guess.
Henry
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raf,
No particular brand but around 22Mp would be sufficient for me. Prefer to use on Hasselblad V system since I have 3 bodies and a few lenses to start with. I'll move to newer backs / platform later when prices are less crazy, I guess.
Henry
[a href=\"index.php?act=findpost&pid=135857\"][{POST_SNAPBACK}][/a]
That's a good start into digital using the V series camera and backs. That's how I began my leap into digital.
I can say that going into a 'more digital' system will make a noticeable difference as well. Eg: The H lenses are wonderful. The zoom is especially great - in fact, better than some of the H primes! I'd suggest using a 22MP Imacon back on your V series for a while, then upgrading to an H system. Makes for a very good migration path and will provide you with some nifty features once the entire system is integrated.
Perhaps a call to a reputable dealer may provide you with a lead on some used/refurbished gear......
Cheers!
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That's a good start into digital using the V series camera and backs. That's how I began my leap into digital.
I can say that going into a 'more digital' system will make a noticeable difference as well. Eg: The H lenses are wonderful. The zoom is especially great - in fact, better than some of the H primes! I'd suggest using a 22MP Imacon back on your V series for a while, then upgrading to an H system. Makes for a very good migration path and will provide you with some nifty features once the entire system is integrated.
Perhaps a call to a reputable dealer may provide you with a lead on some used/refurbished gear......
Cheers!
[a href=\"index.php?act=findpost&pid=135861\"][{POST_SNAPBACK}][/a]
Peter,
What primes do you consider inferior to the 50-110zoom? I am building my H system currently and was skipping on the zoom. I virtually never use zooms, the 50-110 also seemed so big and heavy to me.
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Peter,
What primes do you consider inferior to the 50-110zoom? I am building my H system currently and was skipping on the zoom. I virtually never use zooms, the 50-110 also seemed so big and heavy to me.
[a href=\"index.php?act=findpost&pid=135904\"][{POST_SNAPBACK}][/a]
It's better than the 50mm prime, 80 and 100 in my opinion, and at least as good as all the other primes. With an extension tube, I saw no difference between the zoom and the 120 macro.... although the macro is a very very nice lens, especially for close-up/extreme/close-up work.
It's not for everyone, since it is, like you say, very heavy. I shoot exclusively in studio, so the camera/lens remains on the studio stands at all times. It's very versatile and very sharp. Shooting hand-held with the zoom would be very tiring indeed, but you'll certainly build up some muscle!
Cheers!!
Peter.
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Sorry Peter but I respectfully disagree with your opinion of the zoom. Maybe its because we use rental lenses and they get a bit harder use, but we have not had great experience with the H zoom lens. It could be related to its size (we call it the pineapple) and photographers having a hard time hand holding such a beast.
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Sorry Peter but I respectfully disagree with your opinion of the zoom. Maybe its because we use rental lenses and they get a bit harder use, but we have not had great experience with the H zoom lens. It could be related to its size (we call it the pineapple) and photographers having a hard time hand holding such a beast.
[a href=\"index.php?act=findpost&pid=135953\"][{POST_SNAPBACK}][/a]
The H2 with the 120 is enough of a workout hand holding (get the hand strap!!!) I wouldn't hand hold the zoom for more than 2 shots a day.
Ken
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Sorry Peter but I respectfully disagree with your opinion of the zoom. Maybe its because we use rental lenses and they get a bit harder use, but we have not had great experience with the H zoom lens. It could be related to its size (we call it the pineapple) and photographers having a hard time hand holding such a beast.
[a href=\"index.php?act=findpost&pid=135953\"][{POST_SNAPBACK}][/a]
That's what I said - or was trying to say - I would not use it for shooting hand-held.
But the quality of the lens is superb.
Cheers!
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Thanks for the responses.
I will be handholding the H most of the time, in that case it seems logical to skip on the zoom. Besides that I find I have difficulties using zooms, not sure why. I just don't feel too comfortable using them. On the other hand, if the quality exceeds all the primes I will be using and I only need to buy just one lens instead of 3 or 4 I might need to consider it.
The range I will be using mostly is 80 - 120 close range to up to 5 meters. I was thinking to start with the 100/2.2.
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Thanks for the responses.
I will be handholding the H most of the time, in that case it seems logical to skip on the zoom. Besides that I find I have difficulties using zooms, not sure why. I just don't feel too comfortable using them. On the other hand, if the quality exceeds all the primes I will be using and I only need to buy just one lens instead of 3 or 4 I might need to consider it.
The range I will be using mostly is 80 - 120 close range to up to 5 meters. I was thinking to start with the 100/2.2.
[a href=\"index.php?act=findpost&pid=135981\"][{POST_SNAPBACK}][/a]
The zoom is an exceptional lens, but not appropriate for all shooting styles. The quality does NOT exceed all primes. It's as good as some, a bit better than others. If you're hand holding the majority of the time, you'll probably find it will wear you out very quickly.
I would refer to the Hassleblad web site and look over the range of lenses to see which lens best suits your style and what you shoot most often - there's some good information there.
Good luck & enjoy!
Peter.
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The zoom is a fantastic lens. It prevents taking off the lens en getting dust on the sensor but is also very nice when shooting group-shots and then directly going to a close up. Short focussing is really outstanding with the zoom. As said, the extention tube does a perfect job, so good that i did not order the macro lens( and also because with the macro you are limited to 120mm) Best is to get the two smallest tubes for general purposes.
I really love my 100mm 2,2 but also never underestimate the 80mm.
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Naturally I have visited the Hasselblad website first however they tend to say that everything is perfect
I find it nice to hear peoples opinions as well, sure everybody has different styles of working.
Sofar my main interest is with the 80, 100 and 120macro. I probably start with the 80 and 100 with some extention tubes. The 120 is for what I do maybe a tad too long.
Currently I take the back off more often than my lenses to switch between cameras. Dust isn't really something that bothers me too much (how could it with my name).
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Don't you guys find shooting portraits with H2 / H3 to be really difficult, especially handheld? The rig is already heavy enough and yet you have to rotate the camera 90 degrees to frame shots. Is there a way to rotate the back instead?
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Don't you guys find shooting portraits with H2 / H3 to be really difficult, especially handheld? The rig is already heavy enough and yet you have to rotate the camera 90 degrees to frame shots. Is there a way to rotate the back instead?
[a href=\"index.php?act=findpost&pid=136061\"][{POST_SNAPBACK}][/a]
All cameras with rectangular chips work that way.... sometimes square chips are best for some shooting styles, like portraits....
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All cameras with rectangular chips work that way.... sometimes square chips are best for some shooting styles, like portraits....
[a href=\"index.php?act=findpost&pid=136068\"][{POST_SNAPBACK}][/a]
Is there no manufacturer that makes a back that can rotate?
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Is there no manufacturer that makes a back that can rotate?
[a href=\"index.php?act=findpost&pid=136071\"][{POST_SNAPBACK}][/a]
I don't believe it's very practical to stop shooting to rotate the back, especially if your shooting people. Plus, the viewfinder would not allow proper composing.....I would also imagine that a mechanism to allow the back to rotate would cause some focus issues as there would have to be some ply/slack in the mechanism to allow it to rotate.
If it's that much trouble for you, a square chipped back is the way to go.... but really, the new 39MP backs provide a massive file to crop as you see fit in post.
The only rotating backs that I know of (Kapture Group) are for studio cameras, like the Fuji 680 and view cameras.
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The rig is already heavy enough and yet you have to rotate the camera 90 degrees to frame shots.
[a href=\"index.php?act=findpost&pid=136061\"][{POST_SNAPBACK}][/a]
Quick look at Hasselblad's site (and unless my math is incorrect) shows an H2 with viewfinder, 39MP back and 80mm lens actually weighs less than a Canon MKIII with 85mm lens..... I'd say HB did a pretty good job at addressing your concerns!
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Quick look at Hasselblad's site (and unless my math is incorrect) shows an H2 with viewfinder, 39MP back and 80mm lens actually weighs less than a Canon MKIII with 85mm lens..... I'd say HB did a pretty good job at addressing your concerns!
[a href=\"index.php?act=findpost&pid=136080\"][{POST_SNAPBACK}][/a]
In my tests of the H series I found that these cameras really perform, viewfinder and focus are good, and as this poster said an H with a Phase back and an 80mm is actually a decently compact object which compares to an EOS-1 series Canon in bulk and weight.
The one thing I don't like is the "look"; I think the lenses are a bit harsh, even the 100mm. If I were doing landscape I would seriously consider the H series.
Edmund
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In my tests of the H series I found that these cameras really perform, viewfinder and focus are good, and as this poster said an H with a Phase back and an 80mm is actually a decently compact object which compares to an EOS-1 series Canon in bulk and weight.
The one thing I don't like is the "look"; I think the lenses are a bit harsh, even the 100mm. If I were doing landscape I would seriously consider the H series.
Edmund
[a href=\"index.php?act=findpost&pid=136081\"][{POST_SNAPBACK}][/a]
Harsh?
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Is there no manufacturer that makes a back that can rotate?
[a href=\"index.php?act=findpost&pid=136071\"][{POST_SNAPBACK}][/a]
Mamiya RZ. Digital back mounts via an adapter plate that rotates just like a film back.
You could also use a Hassy V series, but the back has to be removed and mounted the opposite direction.
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Mamiya RZ. Digital back mounts via an adapter plate that rotates just like a film back.
[a href=\"index.php?act=findpost&pid=136085\"][{POST_SNAPBACK}][/a]
I don't think that's a good choice of camera for hand holding....;-)
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an H with a Phase back and an 80mm is actually a decently compact object which compares to an EOS-1 series Canon in bulk and weight.
Yes, but every other H lens is easily twice as big as the 80mm. 50, Zoom, 120, 150 are all large lenses which make the camera very front heavy and bulky. Some of the H lenses I have seen are very sharp. The zoom not so much in my opinion. But focus is somewhat subjective when related to one's photographic style. :-)
To get a back the thread.. Imacon/Hasselblad digital backs are great. Good color and Flexcolor is a good software. But I would not recommend them to heavy people shooters. Tethered speed is very very slow compared to Phase and Leaf. For studio work where you aren't cranking thru the frames Imacon/Hassy is great. But if you have to crank out 1300 frames before lunch.. forget it.
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I don't think that's a good choice of camera for hand holding....;-)
[a href=\"index.php?act=findpost&pid=136086\"][{POST_SNAPBACK}][/a]
You mean you don't have forearms of steel ?? :-)
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Yes, but every other H lens is easily twice as big as the 80mm. 50, Zoom, 120, 150 are all large lenses which make the camera very front heavy and bulky. Some of the H lenses I have seen are very sharp. The zoom not so much in my opinion. But focus is somewhat subjective when related to one's photographic style. :-)
To get a back the thread.. Imacon/Hasselblad digital backs are great. Good color and Flexcolor is a good software. But I would not recommend them to heavy people shooters. Tethered speed is very very slow compared to Phase and Leaf. For studio work where you aren't cranking thru the frames Imacon/Hassy is great. But if you have to crank out 1300 frames before lunch.. forget it.
[a href=\"index.php?act=findpost&pid=136088\"][{POST_SNAPBACK}][/a]
lenses: yes that's true, but that applies to all cameras....
speed: I don't believe the speed differences are that great any longer - I understand they were, but many improvements have been made recently....
Again, each system has limitations and advantages. No one system can do everything.
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speed: I don't believe the speed differences are that great any longer - I understand they were, but many improvements have been made recently....
I disagree. We recently did a speed/stress comparison and the H3D is the only back that takes more than 2 seconds between shots while tethered.
Most importantly, Flexcolor basically locks up after the first few frames and you do not see previews while the camera is being shot heavily. After 1 min of heavy shooting it takes upwards of 5 minutes for all the previews to load and control of the software is given back to the user. Compared to Leaf and Phase backs and software, this is a huge difference. So again, I believe Imacon/Hassy to be a good system for shooters who don't have 1000+ frame shoot days.
Details of this speed/stress test can be seen on our website if you are interested..
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I disagree. We recently did a speed/stress comparison and the H3D is the only back that takes more than 2 seconds between shots while tethered.
[a href=\"index.php?act=findpost&pid=136112\"][{POST_SNAPBACK}][/a]
Hey Eric What version of Flexcolour were you running?
Nick-T
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Hey Eric What version of Flexcolour were you running?
Nick-T
[a href=\"index.php?act=findpost&pid=136114\"][{POST_SNAPBACK}][/a]
4.7 if I recall correctly..
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4.7 if I recall correctly..
[a href=\"index.php?act=findpost&pid=136115\"][{POST_SNAPBACK}][/a]
There was a bug in 4.7 which affected tethered speed shooting and the way previews were displayed...
4.7.1 is much better!
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I use 4.7.1 and was pleasantly surprised by the speed of the CF39. I was expecting a lot slower performance that might have helped.
Naturally it is not as fast as my A17 but that is no wonder with files that are a lot bigger.
Sure, Leaf S-class backs are way faster but I don't necessary feel that the speed of the Hasselblads render them useless for people.
I usually do around 500 to 1000 shots on a busy day where 500 is usual and 1000 exceptional.
Even post production is not as slow as I initially expected though it is slower than with the 17MP back.
Now, I do have other issues that I find more important but than again so did I with Leaf. (have not used Phase or Sinar).
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I use 4.7.1 and was pleasantly surprised by the speed of the CF39. I was expecting a lot slower performance that might have helped.
Thanks for the info.. I'll double check our test machines to see what version of the Flexcolor we used. The rental house told us it was the most current version, but that doesn't mean they were right. :-)
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Thanks for the info.. I'll double check our test machines to see what version of the Flexcolor we used. The rental house told us it was the most current version, but that doesn't mean they were right. :-)
[a href=\"index.php?act=findpost&pid=136180\"][{POST_SNAPBACK}][/a]
And using firewire 800 will also affect the results....
Cheers!
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Thanks for the info.. I'll double check our test machines to see what version of the Flexcolor we used. The rental house told us it was the most current version, but that doesn't mean they were right. :-)
[a href=\"index.php?act=findpost&pid=136180\"][{POST_SNAPBACK}][/a]
Well maybe they were right and maybe my expectations were so low (with regards to speed) that anything would have pleased me
The 2 seconds mentioned in the test seem too long to me, that notwithstanding it still is not a fast back.
If that is what is truly important to someone the Leaf S-class should be higher on their list (again with regard to speed).
For me it was important to be able to use 1 back on multiple systems.
I don't use FW800 BTW.
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important to be able to use 1 back on multiple systems.
I don't use FW800 BTW.
[a href=\"index.php?act=findpost&pid=136222\"][{POST_SNAPBACK}][/a]
Then it's not a true nor accurate test of what the back is capable of....
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Euh.... Peter.
I did not do the testing.
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Euh.... Peter.
I did not do the testing.
[a href=\"index.php?act=findpost&pid=136238\"][{POST_SNAPBACK}][/a]
oh ya... sorry.
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oh ya... sorry.
[a href=\"index.php?act=findpost&pid=136241\"][{POST_SNAPBACK}][/a]
Easily confused those Canadians
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Easily confused those Canadians
[a href=\"index.php?act=findpost&pid=136250\"][{POST_SNAPBACK}][/a]
I blame it on the heat... it's over 40C here today... ya, that's it... the heat.
Cheers!
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I'm using a 132c with V series hasselblads. It works very well for me but did take a bit of messing about with the shim kit to get the focus operating correctly at first, and it seems to change depending on which V series camera used as I have tried it on a couple of other models( i'm using a pair of ELX's and am heading towards the H system slowly as I really want that zoom at some point ).Once set though , I can't really fault the V series glass , unsharpness is usually caused by mirror slap or hand holding issues, or stopping down past f11.5 where diffraction issues are noticeable. I have a 40, 80, 100, 150 and 180 and they are all sharp - I'm sure H system glass will be that much sharper again as its all of much newer design and digitally oriented . I have the camera set up in portrait and tilt it for landscape which seems to work for me
I was doing a large people shoot the day before yesterday and its the first big shoot I have done like that since purchasing a Macbook pro. What a difference ! The buffer clears almost immediately, shot speed seemed improved - the only issue I had turned out to be a sticking cable release that caused the camera to fire too quickly once or twice. FC rendering was happening at least as fast as I was shooting , not at full resolution but enough to see facial expressions. stopping briefly to check focus took only a few seconds. But I was wondering how many criticism of speed issues are more a result of computer rather than camera issues as a lot happens in FC and not the camera when shooting tethered. Shooting to the image tank hasn't ever been a problem as the ELX shoots only as fast as the back will.
After 600 shots and a tight deadline I think I'm currently in no hurry to move to 39mp until computers processing gets a bit quicker. FC is at least as fast as C1 , which I use for my Canon , probably faster considering the amounts of data involved and is a bit less fiddly ( I HATE that folder selection arrangement C1 has although the colour it gets from the Canon is really outstanding IMO)
Well maybe they were right and maybe my expectations were so low (with regards to speed) that anything would have pleased me
The 2 seconds mentioned in the test seem too long to me, that notwithstanding it still is not a fast back.
If that is what is truly important to someone the Leaf S-class should be higher on their list (again with regard to speed).
For me it was important to be able to use 1 back on multiple systems.
I don't use FW800 BTW.
[a href=\"index.php?act=findpost&pid=136222\"][{POST_SNAPBACK}][/a]
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.... although the colour it gets from the Canon is really outstanding IMO)
[a href=\"index.php?act=findpost&pid=136257\"][{POST_SNAPBACK}][/a]
I heard some use the HB profile of FC when shooting with Cannon for amazing results.....
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Don't you guys find shooting portraits with H2 / H3 to be really difficult, especially handheld? The rig is already heavy enough and yet you have to rotate the camera 90 degrees to frame shots. Is there a way to rotate the back instead?
[a href=\"index.php?act=findpost&pid=136061\"][{POST_SNAPBACK}][/a]
Fo you guys who shoot a lot of portraits with the H get the RRS L-bracket and the handstrap! This is a huge improvement for shooting and makes the H very comfortable, especially on tripod in portrait view.
regards,
Clem
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Very interesting thread which I've only just discovered.
Have been sitting on the fence for the last few months trying to decide what to do next in terms of equipment.
Currently I am using a Sinar P (yes, film!) and a Canon 5D. One year ago, there were 4 E6 labs in my city. There is now one, and next month they are moving to half-time.
So, I need to decide what to do going forward.
Ultimately, I will need to replace the Sinar with a digital equivalent - though, being honest about it, many clients don't need 4x5, they just like the look of the trannies on a lightbox!
I also want a true substitute for my now redundant Mamiya 6x7 system.
Ideally, I would buy a H2D with the 39Mp MS back. Multi-shot is something I could use in my line of work - mostly art catalogues/books.
In addition, I think that the new Canon Mk 111 will be a substitute for my medium-format system.
However, reading this thread, I am wondering should I combine a second-hand Imacon with a new Canon to fill both gaps?
I have a feeling that, since in film days, most of us used medium-format most of the time, the new Canon is going to put serious pressure on the digital back industry.
With the closed H3D system, the loss of the use of Zeiss glass and the move away from Capture One processing, two industry insiders I have spoken to - one a Hasselblad dealer, I should add - believe that Hasselblad have shot themselves in the foot at least three times.
Thus, I would not like to find in six months time that I had paid, say, €10k too much for a 39Mp MS.
Are Imacon backs readily available second-hand?
Does my argument make sense?
D.
ps....I've often thought....if the Hassie/Phase backs were half the price they are currently, would they *only* sell twice as many of them? Surely not! Three times as many? Six times? Ten times?! ;-)
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If you are doing art reproduction then a 39MS back is the way to go for ultimate quality but I believe even a 22mp MS back goes past 4x5 for image quality so a second hand one might be an option.Only with the best possible lenses I'm sure.
The mk 3 will be a pretty good substitute for MF but not quite as it still has an AA filter which will affect sharpness to greater extent than the MF backs which have none.
I will probably get one to play the role my mk2 does now - portability and handheld/high iso speed quality.
My main reason for going MF was for the MF look with control of the background, working closer with longer lenses etc as 22 mp is plenty for most of the work it gets used for. I had always enjoyed this with the Hasselblad and 4x5 and whille it isn' t the same , its close
Very interesting thread which I've only just discovered.
Have been sitting on the fence for the last few months trying to decide what to do next in terms of equipment.
Currently I am using a Sinar P (yes, film!) and a Canon 5D. One year ago, there were 4 E6 labs in my city. There is now one, and next month they are moving to half-time.
So, I need to decide what to do going forward.
Ultimately, I will need to replace the Sinar with a digital equivalent - though, being honest about it, many clients don't need 4x5, they just like the look of the trannies on a lightbox!
I also want a true substitute for my now redundant Mamiya 6x7 system.
Ideally, I would buy a H2D with the 39Mp MS back. Multi-shot is something I could use in my line of work - mostly art catalogues/books.
In addition, I think that the new Canon Mk 111 will be a substitute for my medium-format system.
However, reading this thread, I am wondering should I combine a second-hand Imacon with a new Canon to fill both gaps?
I have a feeling that, since in film days, most of us used medium-format most of the time, the new Canon is going to put serious pressure on the digital back industry.
With the closed H3D system, the loss of the use of Zeiss glass and the move away from Capture One processing, two industry insiders I have spoken to - one a Hasselblad dealer, I should add - believe that Hasselblad have shot themselves in the foot at least three times.
Thus, I would not like to find in six months time that I had paid, say, €10k too much for a 39Mp MS.
Are Imacon backs readily available second-hand?
Does my argument make sense?
D.
ps....I've often thought....if the Hassie/Phase backs were half the price they are currently, would they *only* sell twice as many of them? Surely not! Three times as many? Six times? Ten times?! ;-)
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With the closed H3D system, the loss of the use of Zeiss glass and the move away from Capture One processing, two industry insiders I have spoken to - one a Hasselblad dealer, I should add - believe that Hasselblad have shot themselves in the foot at least three times.
D.
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Hi D,
I don't think you should think the move away from 'Zeiss' glass as a loss. This was rather an emotional attachment I beleive and I think most H users would be pretty quick to jump in and say they were entirely happy with their lenses compared to the classic stuff.
Move away from Capture One? This has never been associated with Imacon / Hasselblad period, so maybe the Hasselblad dealer isn't the best guy to rely on!!
The integration is an advantage to us, nothing else really.
Good luck with the search for a multi shot!
Jo S. x
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Help needed with Flexcolor color space correction within Flexcolor:
Shooting at dawn yesterday (hurridly starting in the dark) we mistakenly chose the capture color space on the Flexcolor V 4.5.3 as Std RGB - embed+
It has produced an over saturated RGB look.
Are there any Flexcolor users out there that can tell me how to convert the entire shoot back to Std RGB without the + , preferably in a single action instead of image by image?
Alternatively are there Flexcolor users who know where I can find the Flexcolor forum to ask the same question?
Thanks
Mark
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Help needed with Flexcolor color space correction within Flexcolor:
Shooting at dawn yesterday (hurridly starting in the dark) we mistakenly chose the capture color space on the Flexcolor V 4.5.3 as Std RGB - embed+
It has produced an over saturated RGB look.
Are there any Flexcolor users out there that can tell me how to convert the entire shoot back to Std RGB without the + , preferably in a single action instead of image by image?
Alternatively are there Flexcolor users who know where I can find the Flexcolor forum to ask the same question?
Thanks
Mark
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Hi Mark,
First of all I would ditch that version of FlexColor and get the latest - 4.7.1.
The '+' signifies that you have made an adjustment to the settings within the Std RGB profile - not necesarily a bad thing as I assumed you would have grey balanced?
Anyway, if you want to change them all to another setting, simply open one file, reselect the setup you want, highlight all the images in the thumbnails window, then click on 'Modify'.
Tick the first option - 'Add default Setup'. Thats it.
There is a user group but you have to be an owner. Goto groups.yahoo.com and search for 'FlexFrame'.
Jo S.x