Luminous Landscape Forum
Equipment & Techniques => Cameras, Lenses and Shooting gear => Topic started by: Josh-H on July 18, 2007, 02:32:02 am
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Which TSE lens [Canon] would people reccomend for landscape work.
The 24mm or 45mm?
The 24mm is appealing as I do tend to shoot wider than not.. but I hear the 45mm is the better lens.
Thoguhts?
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Which TSE lens [Canon] would people reccomend for landscape work.
The 24mm or 45mm?
The 24mm is appealing as I do tend to shoot wider than not.. but I hear the 45mm is the better lens.
Thoguhts?
[a href=\"index.php?act=findpost&pid=128780\"][{POST_SNAPBACK}][/a]
I had the 45, sold it again, because it wasn't wide enough. Now I have the 24 I'm quite happy. Still would like a good 35mm
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Which TSE lens [Canon] would people reccomend for landscape work.
The 24mm or 45mm?
The 24mm is appealing as I do tend to shoot wider than not.. but I hear the 45mm is the better lens.
Thoguhts?
[a href=\"index.php?act=findpost&pid=128780\"][{POST_SNAPBACK}][/a]
I have the 24mm and the quality is more the acceptable, the benefits of its features more then compensates for any short comings. A great feature is using side shift to make pans. On the 45mm you could get a wide shot using this feature so thats worth looking into.
Go with the focal length you require most is my tip
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take a look at this
http://www.zoerk.com/ (http://www.zoerk.com/)
with their panorama tilt and shift adapters, you can use any focal length you want, with better quality from medium format lens systems
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Which TSE lens [Canon] would people reccomend for landscape work.
The 24mm or 45mm?
The 24mm is appealing as I do tend to shoot wider than not.. but I hear the 45mm is the better lens.
Thoguhts?
[a href=\"index.php?act=findpost&pid=128780\"][{POST_SNAPBACK}][/a]
I would suggest the 45mm. Reason is, the 24 is quite soft, especially near the edges. On a FF camera, you have the advantage of a wide angle, but for panoramas, you're probably better off shifting the 45 lens and stitching 3 frames. The 45 is very sharp and being a normal focal length gives you more versatility in how you can use it... either for landscapes or for close-in stills of objects, etc. If you are going to buy only one tilt-shift lens, you may find the 45 to give you the most flexibility.
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I use both, both work well within limits. Be sure to test yours for optimum aperture and shift particularly in the corners. Full shift will give you softness in the corners. But these are both good lenses. I also use an Olympus 35 PC adapted for the Canon.
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I use all three TSE's, both conventionally and then for seamless pano stitching. By assembling two horizontal frames you end up with a 4x10 aspect ratio that is about 67% wider than the original focal length of the lens, so the 24 is effectively a 16 FoV; the 45 a 30.
Here is a shot of a graffiti wall done with the 24. I have the camera about 2 meters from the close wall. Note the edge fall-off too -- this may affect your decision. Canon only recommends using 8mm of shift in horizontal mode with the 24, but here I used all 11mm so got the last 3mm of fall-off on both sides of the image. I personally do not mind the effect, but you may:
(http://jack.cameraphile.org/albums/album20/Grafiti_Pano_Flat_SM.jpg)
Here is a similar stitch done with the 45. In this one I am around 4 meters from the kiln and it is about 5 meters tall to put things in perspective:
(http://jack.cameraphile.org/albums/album21/kiln_pano_2.jpg)
Note that these frames were all assembled directly in CS. It takes me less than 6 seconds using counter-shift on the camera to capture both frames required for these perfect stitches
Hope this helps,
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I learned that same stitch technique from Jack's wittings and have used it to great success shooting interiors of architecture. It has become a regular part of my workflow.
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Does anyone use the 90 T&S in portrait format for shooting multiple frame panos, as well?
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Does anyone use the 90 T&S in portrait format for shooting multiple frame panos, as well?
[{POST_SNAPBACK}][/a] (http://index.php?act=findpost&pid=129790\")
There's an older article on FM about the 90 and has a 3 shot pano done with teh 90.
[a href=\"http://www.fredmiranda.com/TS-E90/#TiltEffect]http://www.fredmiranda.com/TS-E90/#TiltEffect[/url] scroll down
Diane
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Good article - Thanks.
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You have received a lot of great information and practical examples. I just wanted to share some of my examples as I always like to see what others are doing. I have all three T/S lenses. I have only processed and printed my 24mm either single frames or stitches. I have some stitches with the other lengths, but have yet to process those images.
Here is an example where the 24mm T/S was stitched with 3 horizontal compositions.
http://www.earthandskyphoto.com/potm/april.htm (http://www.earthandskyphoto.com/potm/april.htm)
This is an example of 3 vertical compositions stitched with the 24mm.
http://www.earthandskyphoto.com/horseshoe_bend_2006.htm (http://www.earthandskyphoto.com/horseshoe_bend_2006.htm)
And this is an example of using the "rise" for a composition in the landscape where I needed the wide angle and at the same time wanted to avoid pointing the camera up.
http://www.earthandskyphoto.com/loxahatchee_1.htm (http://www.earthandskyphoto.com/loxahatchee_1.htm)
I am finding these lenses quite fun and very creative in the field. I am also experimenting with the RRS Pano gear. I do find the 3 panel T/S method of stitching to be quite convenient for those times when you don't want to setup the pano head. Good luck with your decision and keep us posted.
Jeff Ball