Luminous Landscape Forum
Equipment & Techniques => Medium Format / Film / Digital Backs – and Large Sensor Photography => Topic started by: rogerxnz on June 22, 2015, 03:45:36 pm
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The H4X has True Focus and the H5X has True Focus II, which I assume is an improvement over the first version. Does that mean the first version did not work?
Not that I can afford a 5X but is a used 4X worth having?
Surely, H2 users were able to focus reliably almost all of the time? Is there not a button on the H2 to hold the focus while you recompose?
I want an H body to use with an IQ180. I think I could use an H2 but am worried that I will not be able to focus reliably. So, I need to know if the 4X offers enough certainty of sharp focus to make buying one worthwhile.
A used 4X is about double the price of a used H2. £3,000 compared to £1,400. Is the extra cost worthwhile?
Roger
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I went from an H1 to a H5X. I rented the 4X and then the 5 came out and I don't like to buy old technology. I didn't use the 4 enough to judge the difference btw the true focus on both, but on the 5x it works. I shot the H1 for six months and never wider than 5.6 because invariably it wouldn't be in focus (on a credo 40 back). With the 5X I'm closer to 90% in focus.
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Focus and recompose is of necessity imprecise because of geometry. Draw it and you will understand at once.
Edmund
The H4X has True Focus and the H5X has True Focus II, which I assume is an improvement over the first version. Does that mean the first version did not work?
Not that I can afford a 5X but is a used 4X worth having?
Surely, H2 users were able to focus reliably almost all of the time? Is there not a button on the H2 to hold the focus while you recompose?
I want an H body to use with an IQ180. I think I could use an H2 but am worried that I will not be able to focus reliably. So, I need to know if the 4X offers enough certainty of sharp focus to make buying one worthwhile.
A used 4X is about double the price of a used H2. £3,000 compared to £1,400. Is the extra cost worthwhile?
Roger
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So the H5X is supported as a backup body for the H5D lineup - where as the H4X won't work with the H4D backs. Better seals all around on the H5X, plus I seem to recall you could get the -50c with the H5X body instead of the H5D body.
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I run a H1 so cannot comment on True Focus other than knowing that the vII version uses the same system, algorithms may have been tweaked from vI , but adds compensation in the focus point allowing for lens curvature.
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Sure H2 users able to focus reliably, as are all camera users, using your eye through the viewfinder and manual override.
As already mentioned, True Focus overcomes the problem with Focus and Recompose in that it just doesn't work (at least at larger apertures). If you focus on a models eye directly in front and move the camera to include the scenery beside her, then the focus plane is now behind the models eye. It is out of focus. Simple geometry.
The H5X is able to support additional third party backs and apparently H backs also. But check that. Personally after having an H2 and Phase combination I find the all Hasselblad H3D11 a vast improvement. An H2 is a great camera but now pretty old. I think an H5 is worth at least twice an H2.
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Is the need for refocusing diminished if you use a WLF because you probably have a lesser need to recompose?
Hasselblad's diagram shows the camera angling down to capture the subject's torso/ full body after focusing on the subject's eyes.
I think you can avoid that change of angle by using a WLF. The focus spot would be on the chest or the waist (for a full body shot) and wouldn't this be close enough at f8?
Roger
Focus and recompose is of necessity imprecise because of geometry. Draw it and you will understand at once.
Edmund
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Is the need for refocusing diminished if you use a WLF because you probably have a lesser need to recompose?
Hasselblad's diagram shows the camera angling down to capture the subject's torso/ full body after focusing on the subject's eyes.
I think you can avoid that change of angle by using a WLF. The focus spot would be on the chest or the waist (for a full body shot) and wouldn't this be close enough at f8?
Roger
I guess that depends on the chest :)
Edmund
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Good point(s)!
Roger
I guess that depends on the chest :)
Edmund
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So the H5X is supported as a backup body for the H5D lineup - where as the H4X won't work with the H4D backs. Better seals all around on the H5X, plus I seem to recall you could get the -50c with the H5X body instead of the H5D body.
Actually you can use an H4D digital back on an H4X body (and H3D, and H3D-II, and H5X). At least in my experience.
No, it won't have been factory matched/calibrated from a tolerances standpoint, but it is important to remember that is only one part of the equation. I've shot with mis-matched HxD Digital Backs and H bodies and at times, had more accurate focus than with the matched body.
Steve Hendrix
Capture Integration
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Actually you can use an H4D digital back on an H4X body (and H3D, and H3D-II, and H5X). At least in my experience.
That comment is very interesting. I haven't tried it but I understood that you got an error that the focus number or similar was wrong and could not proceed past that. Is that not correct or is there a way to bypass it.
I would like to put a different back on my H3DII.
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Actually you can use an H4D digital back on an H4X body (and H3D, and H3D-II, and H5X). At least in my experience.
No, it won't have been factory matched/calibrated from a tolerances standpoint, but it is important to remember that is only one part of the equation. I've shot with mis-matched HxD Digital Backs and H bodies and at times, had more accurate focus than with the matched body.
Steve Hendrix
Capture Integration
I know you've said this a few times but it's a supported v unsupported statement. I seem to recall a piece of gaff tape is needed to shoot a H mount Phase back on a H4D body or such right?
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Just finished a shoot group of five people sitting around a small round table focused on one eye in the group recomposed that eye is dead on, shot three people focused on one eye with true focus that eye is dead on, shot single subject true focused on closest eye then recomposed for full body that eye is dead focus. 90 % of the shots were with the 120 the others with the 50. If your questioning whether true focus works rent an h5d. I think the camera missed one shot out of 80 or so!
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I prefer true focus over the AF in my Nikon D800. With TF I do not have to move around a cursors with a clumsy button on the backside just to find out that the cursor never seems to be able to get to the spot where I really want it. TF, you aim, focus and recompose. No matter where you want the focusspot in the frame, it almost always gets there. Yes, TF works. You just need to get the hang of it but when you do, it is very easy and reliable. The H5 body is not just a paintjob. The body is much more stable than the H4.