Luminous Landscape Forum
Raw & Post Processing, Printing => Printing: Printers, Papers and Inks => Topic started by: Phil Indeblanc on December 29, 2014, 06:58:55 am
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I was just again printing after a few days of it sitting. It printed about 3 inches, and then it gave a Cartridge Error! E Cartridge Needs replacing! I was wondering why it even brought this up as I wasn't using any Gloss Enhance on the print!(unless it somehow defaulted to it?no!). So I had 1 extra GE 130mL cartridge. It took me a while to get out of the box and packaging, and replace it. I actually first tried to reseat the cart a couple times thinking why it would even give a message like Invalid cartridge! Anyway, I had it continue the print, which was a smooth continuation. Although the sound the printer was making with clunking around sounds was a bit odd.
Print was complete. I opened up the window and noticed the left side....The belt sits on a wheel, was now a stringy mess on the side and off the wheel. A good section of the belt split, and another section was shredded like spaghetti angel hair!. Some debris on the insides. I powered off, and said a prayer.
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yes it happened to me too..
i took a deep breath - looked at the video ' how to replace.." and ordered a belt 40€ or so..
on a Zen day i installed the belt in mu cleaned office making pictures of every possible problem an put the parts in order on my floor..
my printer was very clean for the 6 years of use...
I t took me more than half a day - but it was not difficult. It is just taking everything apart that makes it a bit freightening.
do it with elegance- if something does not seem to work - think it over- never use force...
it works since as ever before ... knok-knok
succes!
PK
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Told ya ::)
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Well it was evident with the thin sliver that was cut out that it was on the way, but I honestly thought it would go a while longer before the condition one print could do.
I have the bushing, lps belt, and still need a quiet 80mm fan.
Thanks to your records, this maybe something I could take on, but will wait to hear from the tech I initially spoke to regarding a PS upgrade. See what he charges for this.
You told me to keep an eye on it :-)
So I ordered the parts including a IP55 43cfm fan that will be heard with it going at 30+ dba. I almost got a 33CFm which is a faint hum if the area is quiet, but with Cali heat and such, I figure it would be good to move more air.
So... I think Friday/or Monday the parts come, and the PS parts go in along with the belt/bushing/fan.
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Good advice Kers. I will try and see if there is a way to know when the stars are supposed to be aligned, then I can attempt it myself :-)
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Good Luck. It's happened to virtually all Z3100 users (myself included). Bite the bullet and go for it!
Brian
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Thanks. There is a chance I might have a local tech do the work, if the price is right. Anything over $200-250(my parts) on my site, I rather do myself.
It may take me longer, but the satisfaction would be priceless. I just have to see if my schedule can clear to take the day. (not counting the time to prep material and a little gusto!)
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That was pretty hefty glance I took looking over almost 400 pages of the service manual!
Lots of it says this may require recalibration, so page 8-4 etc.
When my HD/PMech board are replaced, I can sync the paper profiles from the computer back to the printer. Though I may need a recalibration.
What else needs calibration with these 2 parts repalced?
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See 49:22 of Brian's video for calibrations needed. Anything you mess with will require testing/calibration.
Export your ICC profiles to a folder on your computer before you take anything apart.
That way, you can import those ICC profiles back in, under "additional papers" then you only have to re-calibrate the papers after the upgrade.
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doing that now , thanks!
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Came across this stuff and thought it sure sounds a lot like the $40 I spent on the HP oil :-)
http://www.ebay.com/itm/BEST-synthetic-turntable-oil-for-Teac-PLEASE-READ-/230523027129?pt=US_Record_Players_Home_Turntables&hash=item35ac3e3eb9
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Speaking to a independent HP repair tech...
He said that the LPS belt is not better than the OEM HP belt, and said it would be a mistake to use that belt, and offered the $155 HP belt. (another tech offered the OEM for $70).
I asked if there is ANYTHING I should be considering to replace while I have it all apart. He said that often the tension wheel expands and that belt with tensioner wheel/spring housing is $220.
I asked anything else? He said only after inspecting would he know.
My belt had come off the wheels tracks and slid to the side of the wheel, onto the posts that hold it into the metal housing, but I don't see any damage to the wheel, and it looks like a solid enough piece to outlast me.
I was having one of the 2 techs come today and do the work. One of the techs was willing to use my parts.
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Regardless, I'm taking Mark's word over the other tech that I'm not working with.
I already purchased the lpsbelt, the HP oil, the improved bushings(he sent me 2), the fan.
I had most of the tools and was sort of looking forward yet on the fence about doing it myself,
but this one tech(the one willing to work with my parts) has done it a number of times before, and at a price I can not argue with.
By the end of the day/night I should be running and printing:-)
Oddly, a few response posts got deleted, so I'm talking to myself here ;-)
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$150 for the OEM belt is a rip off, Phil. And there is no way that the belt tensioner pulley is screwed up by any means unless a bullet went through your printer…
The tech that said he would work with you is definitely the guy to be working with for sure.
Good luck with that hope everything goes well. I will mention that thanks to the great folks here particularly Geraldo Garcia, told me that even if the scan axis test fails, including the color center, it's a bug in the test program, and just keep moving on.
Let us know how it went and what it cost, ok ?
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All done!
I had another laser printer for him to work on, but he took about 1.5 hours to do the belt job. He was very familiar with it, and without taking the printer all apart. He only took the left side cover off, making sure the carriage is free, then pulled it to the end and inserted the belt while on the metal rod, and moved the carriage to the right a bit, replaced the bushing, after a quick cleaning, put everything together. Also fixed my laser printer. He charged me $150labor. He checked all the heads as I had a MK clog. He said even if you clean the heads, once they start giving trouble, most likely they work for a bit, but will eventually need replacing. If you are in the SoCal area I would highly recommend OfficePro.
So, I replaced the MK-Red head. and I might be looking at replacing the MY soon. Anyway. I think tomorrow will be a good day printing!
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Congrats Phil - back in the saddle again!
Glad it all worked out for you.
- Mark
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Yes and no :-/ That MK ...I replaced the head, and still blank.
Not a drop on the diag page.
So, yes the printer is up and running, but not for the matte!(particularly matte realistic litho print)
I just cleaned the ink cartridges feed hole/foil round area where the ink plugs in.
I also cleaned the print head electronics, the nozzles, and the tube that inserts into the ink line. I cleaned/wet the area with a swab with Windex-Original.
Did another diag page...completely blank.
Ran a head cleaning on M/Y and MK/R, no go. Running a second now. Will see if the Util has a cleaning with strength differences so I can run a power clean?
(This MK clog I was already having before the belt issue)
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On my 3rd head cleaning. I got a MM of a line on the first row/80 of the diagnostics page. Top MK patch was completely blank.
#4....
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Your best bet of course, Phil, is to just buy a new printhead and quit screwing around with the old one.
If you must proceed with this torture, take the printhead out, covered it with a used white T-shirt, and run a vacuum – like a shop-vac in short pulses until you begin to see Ink coming out.
If that doesn't work, try putting the printhead under the front tire of your car. Back over the printhead slowly, then drive forward, then rinse and repeat several times.
If the printhead still will not work, go back outside with it, and as hard as you can, hurtle it against a nearby concrete wall. If all else fails, try scotch taping the pieces back together. Sometimes patience and perseverance and good technique, and these printheads can be salvaged.
Buy a printhead.
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I think I should have emphasizes a bit....When I said I replaced the head, I meant with a new one. I'll continue on the new thread.