Luminous Landscape Forum
Raw & Post Processing, Printing => Printing: Printers, Papers and Inks => Topic started by: Phil Indeblanc on December 14, 2014, 11:46:03 pm
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Anyone have any suggestions? I hate to waste good paper.
Rolling them reverse inside out only damages them the way I do it. I have been able to feed the roll's edge end by flattening it as I feed it, but its a bit of a struggle.
I have a bunch of roll scraps. Whats the best way to make them flat and usable?
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Search the forum for "D roller" or "DE roller." Just what the Doctor ordered. I made my own from a metal closet pole and a sheet of banner stock for less than ten bucks. - Jim
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$250! for 24" $350 for 50"? wow!
You made yours because you likely don't enjoy burning money, or maybe because you're not insane.
I think $50 would be ok for a large one with something clever made to make it easy or something. I think I will make my own. Maybe a 2-2.5 or so inch pipe. Heavy metal. Fill it with something like premixed concrete. Then a flexible plastic sheet or rubber sheet with maybe a felt inside or something. Duct tape it and try it out.....Before I spend $300.
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....I think I will make my own. Maybe a 2-2.5 or so inch pipe. Heavy metal. Fill it with something like premixed concrete......
Fill with pre-mixed concrete? You must be younger than middle-aged... ;D
This is what I've done. I have two of my own "reverse-curl" rollers, one for shorter (thinner in width), and one for large pieces.
I use a large, heavy 3" core tube. The larger cores are more "gentle" in the reverse curl---smaller cores will be more aggressive. I use a thin, smooth (somewhat soft) substrate such as Tyvek (polyethlene) banner material---so as to avoid scratching. Simply square off the material and adhere to your roller and roll it up. I use a paper roll holder to keep it closed. Most pieces take no more than a few seconds to de-curl, others may take a few minutes.
ken
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... or maybe because you're not insane.
My mother had me tested. ;D
Heavy metal. Fill it with something like premixed concrete.
It's not about the weight. Save yourself the hassle, a hollow tube will work just fine. - Jim
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Humidity is a major factor in decurling an image. Certain fine art papers will absorb atmospheric humidity more than others. Maybe these photos will help in some way.
Photo #1: I used humid days to my advantage. This is a 44" section from a roll of Somerset Photo (A 300gsm cotton paper). The older the rolls the more persistent the curl, and hanging the print in a humid location (covered porch here) will relax the paper enough to use the de-curler.
Photo #2: After 3-4 min. the paper is ready to de-curl.
Photo #3: This is a DIY decurler using Savage Translum Diffusion material. (http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/search?=Savage+Translum+Diffusion+Background+%2854%22+x+18%27%29&N=10046170&InitialSearch=yes&sts=pi) It cost around $50.00 including shipping. Thinner decurling material lets an crease imprint occur on thicker papers. My work table is 4' x 8' so I trim the Tranlum to 48" wide a leave it on the roll it came. The wooden wedge assist in tightening the roll. This print took about 30 sec. to fully flatten.
Photo #4: Wooden wedge detail (wood glue to Translum's paper tube)
Photo #5: When not in use, the decurler rest at the table's edge
Photo #6: When natural atmospheric humidity is not present or you live in Arizona or the like, Use one of these. Cost about $50.00. Hold backside of print about 8-12 inches above the steam nozzle.
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If I put a Matte paper like Epson Hot Press or baryta like Canson Photographique print on my dry mounting press after letting it relax and uncurl a bit, just to make it really flat and 100% dry before mounting.
Will this damage the print in any way doing this?
Should this be done before or after coating?
Hugo
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Nice suggestions here. Thank you.