Luminous Landscape Forum

Equipment & Techniques => Digital Cameras & Shooting Techniques => Topic started by: Transposure on September 13, 2014, 06:33:14 pm

Title: Sony A7R + Canon TSE + Anti-parallax Camera Shift ----> Rail question
Post by: Transposure on September 13, 2014, 06:33:14 pm
Hey guys,
I am using a Sony A7R with the Canon TSE lenses for interior architecture photography.  More specifically, I shoot a three piece stitched horizontal shift for added width in the portrait orientation.  To eliminate any parallax between near and far objects in the interior I am shifting the camera the same/opposite amount as the lens shifts.  I use a Novoflex Castel L rail for this and wanted to add stops on each side to speed up the process a bit.

I read another thread on this from 2011 and found BartvanderWolf's RRS rail photo in the thread...

http://www.luminous-landscape.com/forum/index.php?topic=58987.0

(http://bvdwolf.home.xs4all.nl/temp/OPF/RRS_OrthographicStitch.jpg)

So, does anyone know of a method to add stops to my Novoflex Castel L rail??

Here is a composite I created to illustrate my goal....

(http://www.luminous-landscape.com/forum/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=93408.0;attach=109527;image)
Title: Re: Sony A7R + Canon TSE + Anti-parallax Camera Shift ----> Rail question
Post by: allegretto on September 19, 2014, 07:55:19 am
Looks tidy enough

RRS has clamps you can use. But it would cost money

If the rail has calibration, why not just make a mental note or write down the reading at some reference point? Just as fast and cheaper...
Title: Re: Sony A7R + Canon TSE + Anti-parallax Camera Shift ----> Rail question
Post by: Ellis Vener on September 19, 2014, 11:11:22 am
why not just make a mental note or write down the reading at some reference point? Just as fast and cheaper...

That was my thought as well.
Title: Re: Sony A7R + Canon TSE + Anti-parallax Camera Shift ----> Rail question
Post by: Bart_van_der_Wolf on September 19, 2014, 11:27:30 am
why not just make a mental note or write down the reading at some reference point? Just as fast and cheaper...

That was my thought as well.

Hi Ellis,

While that will work, it is not faster if one wants to be accurate. It will also be near impossible if the shooting space is cramped, e.g. one cannot see the scale very easily.

Being able to nail the correct amount of shift without having to look, is very useful. That's also why I have the stop bars set for maximum lens shift, even when I don't use the shifted image circle of my TS-E 24mm II beyond, say, +/- 7mm (so I effectively extend my virtual sensor by 14mm high image quality, and some more of lesser quality). The lens provided a natural maximum, the stop bars set the other physical maximum, no need to look.

Cheers,
Bart