Luminous Landscape Forum

Equipment & Techniques => Medium Format / Film / Digital Backs – and Large Sensor Photography => Topic started by: bambanx on July 18, 2014, 04:03:58 pm

Title: using studio strobes for a beauty with film
Post by: bambanx on July 18, 2014, 04:03:58 pm
Hello guys today, with a friends will shoot in studio using studio flash , they have light meter there, the subject will be a beauty of a model just a portrait, the thing is i only will have 5 minutes for shoot, so i wanna search info before,

so:

- i will use my fuji gx680 with 180mm 3.2 lens

- how i can meter a correct light using the photometer? the strobes have max 125 sync and max power is 1000W

- the strobes dont have a correct modeling light so metering with modeling light is not the way

- the film will use is a kodak ektar 100asa

- should i shoot firt using 125sync on my nikon dslr (d800) see how she look and them shoot with the fuji undersposing 1 stop ?

- the setup of my light i will keep very simple i think maybe a beautydish in front and nothing more ( for the time )

as you see in what i posted i am starting with film so now is my opportunity to test with a model and studio strobes any advice will be apreciate.

Thanks so much and sorry for my bad english :)
Title: Re: using studio strobes for a beauty with film
Post by: BobShaw on July 19, 2014, 09:34:09 pm
I am not sure of the question. If you have a meter and you only have one light then you measure the flash and it gives you the f stop. If your meter does not have a flash mode then you throw it away and get one that does. Even the cheapest Sekonic 308 does this. You can not meter the modelling light as it's irrelevant.

The sync speed is also irrelevant as long as you keep below it.

You can use the digital camera to measure your flash. Unfortunately Nikon minimum is usually 200ASA and your film is 100ASA. So measure at 200ASA and then open the aperture on the film camera one stop to compensate.

I suggest you do a studio flash course as it's easier to see it than explain it in words. You can then also see how to measure multiple lights.
Title: Re:
Post by: bambanx on July 19, 2014, 09:38:51 pm
Guys any book recommended.focused on light metering with photometers flash ambient spot ...?
Thanks again for your kind help
Title: Re: using studio strobes for a beauty with film
Post by: george2787 on July 20, 2014, 05:53:47 am
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qOxJvwcmADg
Title: Re: using studio strobes for a beauty with film
Post by: eronald on July 20, 2014, 06:10:33 am
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qOxJvwcmADg

If you have 5 minutes, stay with the digital. Usually what is in front of the camera counts more than the camera :)

Edmund
Title: Re: using studio strobes for a beauty with film
Post by: Go Go on July 20, 2014, 11:06:14 am
Shoot Polaroid, or Fujiroid get an exposure you like and then shoot film.

Remember to fill, use white cards and or white flats (4x8) and fill!

Your GX680 does flash sink at all shutter speeds.
Title: Re: using studio strobes for a beauty with film
Post by: Ken R on July 20, 2014, 12:52:37 pm
If you have 5 minutes, stay with the digital. Usually what is in front of the camera counts more than the camera :)

Edmund

Exactly.

No need to risk it, unless you know what you are doing.

At the very least I would experiment a few days beforehand and have the lighting nailed well before the shoot. I would also shoot a few frames with the Digital Camera during the shoot, to have the shot in the bag and then use the film camera.
Title: Re: using studio strobes for a beauty with film
Post by: pfigen on July 21, 2014, 12:54:04 am
I would add that exposing any color neg film strictly at the rated ISO will often leave you with weak shadows. Remember that Kodak tells you that exposing at the rated ISO will give you the minimum exposure for good negs exposed under ideal circumstances. Speaking from decades of experience (and a horrible stint printing black and white prints from color negs in complete darkness on Panalure), giving an extra stop or even two will give you a much better neg whether you're printing from an enlarger or scanning - especially when scanning.