Luminous Landscape Forum
Raw & Post Processing, Printing => Printing: Printers, Papers and Inks => Topic started by: hugowolf on February 01, 2014, 12:54:16 am
-
I use 3M ATG Gold tape to apply backing paper (Kraft, Tyvek, Lineco), to frames. What is the best way to remove this when remounting a print? Is there a solvent that does well?
Brian A
-
If it doesn't simply peel up to your liking, leave the piece out in the bright sun for a few minutes, with the back facing sun. Be very attentive, even on a sub-freezing day the sun can rapidly heat dark surfaces to well over 100F. Don't even try to preserve the existing back cover, it's impossible.
Be very careful with solvents, some of the plastic wraps on cheap moulding might dissolve, and polystyrene moulding will definitely dissolve within a few seconds. And solvent can leach colored pigments in the frame, back cover, and matte into the artwork.
Usually you can pick up tape residue by poking at it with masking tape, warmth helps.
If complications develop, seek help on thegrumble.com. They just love to talk about this stuff!
-
Use a hair dryer to warm the paper (in the glued areas) before removing it. This will soften the glue and it should peel off without leaving any residue. Don't overheat !
I've heard WD40 is good as well, but haven't tried it - and obviously it's greasy, so will need cleaning off afterwards.
-
First, if it is stuck firmly all the way around the frame, then just reapply new ATG over that and continue.
In other words... when you go to open the back, just cut the backer material along the inner edge of the frame and leave the material and ATG alone. This way you can reapply new ATG over that stable and smooth base.
If it is starting to come off or is all raggedy, I use a paint scraper to remove it. It does take a bit of work but it will remove almost all of it.
-
Disclaimer: Try this at your own risk! Follow all precautions with the solvent as it is very dangerous! Use Nitrile gloves, PPE and proper ventilation!
Most ATG tapes are designed to be permanent and are nearly impossible to remove as you have discovered, and the 3M Gold is no exception. If you absolutely have to remove the tape proceed as follows: First, remove the entire dust cover to the best of your ability. It is not salvageable. Next, apply a small quantity of Toluene (the correct solvent for the 3m ATG tape) using a Q-Tip. Work only in small areas at a time and don't let the solvent go anywhere else on your print. After a while you will be able to rub the "gooie" residue with your gloved finger/thumb and remove it from your print.
Now, having given you these instructions, I would recommend that you simply go over the existing tape with another layer then apply the new dust cover. - Jim
-
+1 to the paint scraper. Works great and I agree the wood it takes off is not a big deal on the back of a frame. Most times with any ATG where the backing stuck when you pulled it off, I can get it going by just rubbing the paper with my finger. On a big 30 x 40 frame this does get tedious but works. Areas that are stuck hard I use a 4" scraper from Sears, note be careful with that as it's sharp and can get out of hand easily i.e. don't aim it at yourself.
Paul Caldwell
-
I dunno if this would work with ATG but recently I read that it is possible to remove duct tape residue by using vegetable oil and a paper towel or sponge. I tried it on a varnished surface with a sponge and to my amazement and delight, it worked perfectly after a few seconds - edit - the residue was gone but the varnish was untouched. I then used Windex and another paper towel to remove the vegetable oil. It worked. It would be easy to do a test for this.
That said, when I’ve had to redo a frame back, I pull the old material as well as possible and apply a new layer of ATG right over the top of whatever remains of the old layer, and then put on a new dust cover.
-
Your one-stop thermonuclear tape and residue remover is "Goof Off" available at Lowes, Home Depot, etc. Old bumper stickers, whatever ya got. No problem. Test on your moulding first. I'm sure it's also very effective at removing ink from prints.
-
First, if it is stuck firmly all the way around the frame, then just reapply new ATG over that and continue.
In other words... when you go to open the back, just cut the backer material along the inner edge of the frame and leave the material and ATG alone. This way you can reapply new ATG over that stable and smooth base.
If it is starting to come off or is all raggedy, I use a paint scraper to remove it. It does take a bit of work but it will remove almost all of it.
You are correct sir!
It is an absolute waste of time bothering to remove the old ATG holding the dust cover on the back of a frame !
David
-
Your one-stop thermonuclear tape and residue remover is "Goof Off" available at Lowes, Home Depot, etc. Old bumper stickers, whatever ya got. No problem. Test on your moulding first. I'm sure it's also very effective at removing ink from prints.
A light go with a belt sander or wire wheel on a drill would produce a clean surface.
-
A light go with a belt sander or wire wheel on a drill would produce a clean surface.
Air operated jackhammers have fallen into disfavor and be picked up for a song!
-
Thanks for all the suggestions, a paint scraper or even a putty knife may be the way to go. A am not trying to preserve the backing paper, that would be silly and it is often already torn.
Brian A
-
The most often overlooked thing about backing paper is that the rabbet (or rebate) space should be filled with scrap matte paper or whatever to the height of the back of the frame. Helps avoid tearing and finger-tip punches. And the very best anti-tearing procedure is to use Tyvek instead of paper.
FWIW a few curmudgeons claim an even superior technique is to not use backing at all, since it is questionable that it serves any purpose. They note that most dust finds its way between matte and glass by entering through the front of the frame, not the back. And that by actual measurement the internal greenhouse temperature of framed artwork is higher when backing is present, than when it isn't, the difference being especially dramatic for spotlighted pieces.
-
Air operated jackhammers have fallen into disfavor and be picked up for a song!
Good to know. I read somewhere, maybe it was on the Grumble, that jackhammers weren’t needed often after municipalities stopped using 2” of Quikrete® cement for precast art frames. But for some public art projects there may be an occasional need...
-
The most often overlooked thing about backing paper is that the rabbet (or rebate) space should be filled with scrap matte paper or whatever to the height of the back of the frame. Helps avoid tearing and finger-tip punches.
That would be an awful lot of acid free material on a deep frame, and it would add considerable weight to the whole. Acid free corrugated cardboard, if such a thing existed, would work.
And the very best anti-tearing procedure is to use Tyvek instead of paper.
I use Tyvek on some, but it doesn't adhere as well on narrow profile frames using 1/4" tape. The Lineco backing paper would be good, if it just came in something other than baby blue.
FWIW a few curmudgeons claim an even superior technique is to not use backing at all, since it is questionable that it serves any purpose. They note that most dust finds its way between matte and glass by entering through the front of the frame, not the back. And that by actual measurement the internal greenhouse temperature of framed artwork is higher when backing is present, than when it isn't, the difference being especially dramatic for spotlighted pieces.
If a customer asks for backing paper, I will do it.
I am dubious about the idea of dust and small insects being more likely to enter from the front. I see dust invasion more often with metal frames, probably from the spring clips causing dips and openings at the back – I have used sealing tape, and that seems to prevent it.
With a full museum mount, when I used to use torn Hayaku paper and rice or wheat starch paste, insects would sometimes eat the starch if the back wasn’t sealed. I really don’t consider organic starches to be an archivally good idea anymore.
Brian A