Luminous Landscape Forum
Equipment & Techniques => Cameras, Lenses and Shooting gear => Topic started by: thebatman on April 30, 2012, 11:57:17 am
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Looks like DPReview's evaluation of the OM-D is up, and conclusions are very favorable:
http://www.dpreview.com/news/2012/04/30/Olympus-OM-D-E-M5-review
I've been thinking for a while of picking up a compact system and the OM-D might be the one for me (tempted by the NEX too, but I like the smaller lenses of the 4/3 format).
Does anyone remember Michael mentioning if he would review the OM-D? With his experience with compact systems I'd be very interested in his opinion of this camera.
Some good quotes:
"The E-M5 can't completely overcome the light capture disadvantage brought by its smaller sensor, compared to APS-C, but it reduces it to the point that it's irrelevant for almost all practical purposes. At which point we think its size advantage, in terms of both body and lenses, will outweigh that difference for most uses. If you're absolutely unwilling to compromise on image quality then spending twice the money and moving up to the bulk of a full-frame is the only way of gaining a significant step up from the E-M5."
"The E-M5 is, without question, the most accomplished Micro Four Thirds camera we've yet seen and, given how well established the system has become, it vies for the title of most capable mirrorless option yet. It's not entirely without flaws and, predictably, most of those relate to continuous autofocus. But, for the most part, the E-M5 is simply an awful lot of camera in a compact and attractive body. It's a nice camera to use and the images it takes are just as enjoyable. Without any reservations whatsoever, it deserves our Gold Award."
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Given all the agonizing over the DR of the 5D3 vs D800 and so on, I will be very interested to see how the claims of greatly improved DR in the OM-D E-M5 over most previous 4/3 format cameras (all except possibly the GH2) hold up. The DPReview tests various JPEG modes, so will certainly not satisfy all the hardcore testers and data analysts here, so we at least need to wait on DX0, but the DPReview results along with testing by private users with DX0 software do at least hint at substantial progress, in a way that 5D3 testing does not: http://www.dpreview.com/reviews/olympusem5/17
My question is, assuming that this is a true substantial improvement over most previous 4/3? sensors, including the fairly new one of the G3 and GX1, and if indeed the DR is even better than in the Sony NEX-7 and Samsung NX200, is this due to a significantly new sensor technology, such as the column-parallel ADC of recent Sony sensors?
As background, most previous 4/3 sensors have traditional analog (voltage) output, with off-board ADC, while the GH1 and GH2 sensors do ADC on the sensor chip. This makes me guess that Panasonic is already doing something like column-parallel ADC in those multi-aspect ratio sensors for its top of the line video-oriented models, the GH1 and GH2, but I have not seen any official statement on this. Maybe Panasonic is now willing to sell this newer, better sensor technology to Olympus, but at a high enough price that it can only go in the Olympus OM-D E-M5, the most expensive m4/3 body so far.
Of course, one thought here is that if this is a real step forward for DR from these small photosites (equivalent to 25MP in Canon's EF-S format, 64MP in 35mm, format!), combined with the good video abilities of the hacked GH2, then the Canon sensor designers have their feet to the fire for the next generation of sensors.
Anyway, apart from the weakness of this and any CDAF cameras in AF on moving subjects, this body and the m4/3 lens system looks like a great package in its size and weight class; I might be ready to move on from my DSLRs.
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Olympus hasn't offered one for review yet.
Michael
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Olympus hasn't offered one for review yet.
While we are waiting on Olympus, may I put in a plug for Mike Johnston's comments on the OM-D E-M5, which he is buying and so I expect him to review: see April 24 at The Online Photographer (http://theonlinephotographer.com)
Mile Johnston has long had an orientation to small, agile cameras (like Leica M's), so I look forward to his m4/3 commentary.
Also, a surprise to me: fine printing fanatic Ctein (he of the "we need 200MP for perfect prints" argument) has written there about efforts at getting the finest possible print from his current "go everywhere" camera --- a 12MP Olympus Pen E-P1!
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Michael, glad to see you gave in on the OM-D :) Mine is still on backorder, but I had one as a rental last weekend and was very impressed indeed. Look forward to your thoughts.
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In the last six months or so I've been looking for a take-(almost) everywhere camera. After years of lugging Nikon DSLR systems around I've finally had enough; I can easily find excuses to leave them behind unless someone's paying me and/or I'm driving right up to the location. I'm sure most people here have experienced something similar. I've had a Nikon P6000 for a long time but although this can be persuaded to produce acceptable results under controlled conditions, I've never actually enjoyed using it.
I took a look at the V1 - the attraction being the ability to use existing lenses occasionally for casual wildlife photography. The NEX series has always been a contender too - if only in theory. Finally the X-Pro 1 looked like the answer - at first. I read reviews and user reports until my head spun. I handled the V1 and Fuji a couple of times, albeit under the constraints of a shop environment: both generated serious reservations for different reasons. Then I took a look at the OMD.
I'd seen comments long the lines "don't handle this camera unless you're prepared to take out your cc." I wasn't, but I did. It's hard to define exactly what makes a camera feel right but the OMD felt right, immediately, unlike the others. I'm resistant to the appeal of "retro", per se, but the physical design of the OMD is a convincing recap of positive attributes from an earlier generation of SLRs. A couple of other photographers I've handed it to reacted identically.
There are plenty of reports and examples out there from users more competent and experienced than myself, so I'll omit the attempt to be comprehensive. I don't like offering up hostages to fortune at the best of times. But I'll offer a few comments based on a couple of weeks intermittent and casual "tests".
It's really very small and the controls are quite cramped; I have fairly small hands that even so haven't got accustomed to negotiating them. The extensively customisable dual-dial plus buttons make for very convenient routine adjustment... once you've got them set up. The live histogram - how did I ever live without it? I have the 12-50 kit zoom which is, er, a slow kit-zoom, plus the Panasonic 14/2.5 and 20/2.8 lenses. The latter of these is, to my eyes, excellent. The others are perfectly acceptable, for what they are, even if the 14mm lens never really sharpens up at the extremities.
On the downside the menu system is, inevitably, labrythine. The extensive customise-ability seems to offer the possibility of quite a few conflicts, for example between what is presented on the display vs the EVF. I often end up doing a bit of random button-stabbing. This is sometimes connected with the fact that the default focus rectangle is huge. I've been trying some of my MF Nikkors. The ability to magnify the vf image is connected with resizing the focus rectangle in such a way that if you zoom in to the maximum it is actually reduced to something like a reasonable size when zoomed out again: at which stage the live histogram has vanished, temporarily, until another button-stab. After which the focus rectangle is back to oversize. Now all this may well be due to my stupidity - it often is. But I've resorted to leaving well alone for the present, I can work around the confusion even if it slows things down a bit. I have however encountered a couple of situations when the oversize focus grid seems to have contributed to mis-focusing; OTOH I'm not really used to predicting the way cd focusing systems behave.
As for IQ, it looks pretty acceptable to me. My own photographic limitations massively outweigh marginal differences in s/n ratios or resolution, even though I'm as big a sucker as anyone when it comes to specifications. I did a couple of quick and dirty comparisons with a D700 and 24/70 2.8 at equivalents and in decent light and was surprised how good the processed RAWs looked. The biggest problem I have currently is that the Olympus Viewer software is pretty awful when it comes to the mechanics of RAW conversion - although the output looks OK. They could at least include automatic ca correction. And there's no dedicated highlight/shadow recovery options - you have to mess about with exposure and curves. I've got used to CNX2.
My D700 seems to have got far heavier in the last few weeks. There are some very nice lenses already available for MFT and many more on the way. I could easily see myself using this system (in some form) exclusively. I look forward to seeing reactions to this camera from some of the more exacting and perceptive LL contributors - and Mike Johnstone's take on it, too.
Sorry, this ended up longer than I'd intended.
Roy
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Roy, you mean the Panasonic 20mm f:1.7, since there is no 2.8 as far as I know.
I'm also a convert from Canon DSLR, and it became second nature the moment I held my G3 in my hands. Every day I travel to work in a very long and stressful commute, almost 3 hours back and forth. And I usually encounter pretty good street photography and some landscape subjects in my travels, but having to lug around a Canon 60D with a big Sigma 17-70mm f:2.8-4, was not pretty. I ended up using the 50mm only, and having two bags, one for the camera and one for the laptop, hauling them around bus stops and cramped buses made me look elsewhere.
I didn't cared for the m43 format, since I thought (wrongly) that the sensor was smaller than 4/3. When I realized that what changed was the flange distance, and lenses and cameras could be built smaller, but using the same sensor size, I got very excited. In fact was the OM-D, the camera that made me consider the m43 format. I've always appreciated the OM system of cameras and superb lenses.
I didn't got the OM-D, since I knew it were going to be a nightmare to get one, so I ended up with a Panasonic G3. Is in one word tiny, but packed with amazing features, like a really useful EVF and superb lenses. I also got the 20mm f:1.7, the kit 14-42mm and a 45-200mm. The later is an amazing little gem. There are some that say is not very sharp, but in my case I found it to be sharp even wide open. You just need good light. It won't do magic in low light, that is for sure.
Now, I'm very excited to know that Michael have an OM-D for a long term hands on test. I'd love to see what he finds out regarding not only the OM-D, but the whole m43 system as a whole. How same size prints compare with his also new D800E, etc.
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Martin indeed I do have the Panasonic 20mm 1.7. I'm also considering buying an Olympus 45mm 1.8 which is getting excellent reviews across the board.
Roy
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Martin indeed I do have the Panasonic 20mm 1.7. I'm also considering buying an Olympus 45mm 1.8 which is getting excellent reviews across the board.
Roy
Agree. It seems to be one sweet lens. Sadly it doesn't have IS for my Panasonic G3, so I'll have to keep that in mind, but being 1.8 is not such big a deal to achieve hand holding speed at lower ISO. I've heard DOF and Bokeh is creamy.
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The OMD is for sure a very appealing carry around camera. It is readily available in Tokyo and is high on my list as a complement to the D800 and J1.
How easy is it to reach critical focus with MF lenses (say a voigtlander 20mm or Leica M 21mm)?
Cheers,
Bernard
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Yesterday I was at my camera store and finally got my hands on their samples of the Olympus OM-D EM-5 and the Nikon D800. For weeks (months) I had thought I would buy both when they were in stock, and had pre-ordered the Nikon (E version) soon after it was announced. I wanted a camera smaller and lighter than my Panasonic GH2, and smaller/lighter and lots more MP than my Nikon D3. Well, after holding them both, I'm not going to buy either one. The Nikon was heavier and uglier than I had expected, and did not feel good in the hand. I know, this is a camera for the tripod, but you have to get it there, from home to wherever, and it is heavy (they had Nikon's 85mm lens on it). The focus was nice, but that's not typically how I'm operating a camera on a tripod. Now we get to the Olympus, the subject of this thread. I was really disappointed in the Olympus, for a somewhat different reason. It also didn't feel very good in the hand, and the biggest problem with this small camera is that there was no security to the grip. I'm accustomed to putting my fingers around the GH-2 and being able to do anything with my arm I want, and that camera isn't going anywhere. The little Olympus would go flying at the least provocation. And I'm going to add another point to all of you who are extolling the virtues of the EM-5. Not all these 4/3rds sensors are created equal. Using the resolutions listed on the DPReview site, let me compare the effective megapixels you get with the GH2 and the EM-5. They both give you 15.9 MP at the 4:3 image ratio. At 3:2, the GH2 gives you 15.1 MP, while the EM-5 gives you 14.15. At 16:9, the GH2 gives you 13.9 MP while the EM-5 uses 11.9 MP. And they both come in at 11.94 at the 1:1 ratio. Just some food for thought. --Barbara
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The OMD is for sure a very appealing carry around camera. It is readily available in Tokyo and is high on my list as a complement to the D800 and J1.
How easy is it to reach critical focus with MF lenses (say a voigtlander 20mm or Leica M 21mm)?
Cheers,
Bernard
Hi Bernard.
The magnify function works well, assigned to one of three possible buttons. At present I've got stuck with a workable configuration that isn't ideal - for example the stabilisation of the evf when magnified looks more unstable than it might and I believe this can be improved. But you can still see clearly when you hit focus. I've been playing about with this using an 200 F4 Nikkor. Obviously you're looking through the lens at the set aperture unless you have time to focus wide open and then adjust but the evf compensates adequately. I haven't yet tried this off a tripod using the display. I imagine it would be even better.
For me optimising the controls, and getting familiar with navigating them whilst looking through the evf, is something that's going to take time. I have several times encountered what might, or might not, be conflicting set up options too. However I must say I really enjoy using this camera already!
Roy
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Hi Roy, last week I bought the OM-D EM-5 here in Nuremberg and spent a considerable amount of time scanning German forums for the optimal configuration of the camera.
Especially I focused on the optimal handling if you want to adapt old lenses (like Minolta MD 50mm 1,4 or MD 200mm 4,0). I proceeded in the following way for "my" optimal configuration:
1. Be sure that the super control panel (SCP) is active (->camera settings: D Disp)
2. Assign the magnify function to button "Fn2" (-> camera settings: B Button/Dial)
3. Enable image stabilization when the shuter button is pressed halfway (-> camera settings: C Release)
Whenever I mount a MF lense, I at first go into the SCP and touch the image stabilizer button. A new menue pops up which offers a direct change of the focal length using the "info button". value= 200 e.g. for MD 200mm.
After this initial set-up you can activate the green magnifier rectangle via button "Fn2". If required you resize the rectangle or change the x-y-position.
When you press the "Fn2" a second time the magnified live view is active. If you press the release shutter half way the image is stabilized and you can finally adjust the focus and release the shutter or return to the non-magnified view by shortly pressing the "Fn2" a third time. If you press the "Fn2" about 1/2 a second
the green rectangle totally vanishes.
On my Flickr page you find some images I recently took in order to test the M.Zuiko 20mm 2,0 and the already mentioned MD lenses; all images are freehand without image postprocessing:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/79688720@N07/ (http://www.flickr.com/photos/79688720@N07/)
Cheers, Wolfgang.
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Wolfgang.
Thanks very much - items 1 and 2 are already how I have the camera set however your expanded explanation of item 3 is very useful. I tend to get stuck for a time with a lazy "just about workable" configuration...
As an aside, my camera tends to underexpose quite a bit on the 12-50 kit lens in matrix metering mode (haven't checked anything else) and similarly to a lesser extent with the Panasonic primes. The live histogram is so useful that this seems pretty irrelevant really.
Roy
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Has anybody mentioned the Shadows/Highlight mode in the EVF? I think it is really great. Shadows show up as blue and Highlights are orangish. I meter by cranking up the exposure compensation until I just see orange in the highlights (ignoring speculars), then back off one click. You are assured that you have max exposure with no clipped highlights. You can set the shadow and highlight thresholds in the menu but I just use the defaults, 0 and 255. It is very fast and accurate in practice.
The main problems with it is that there is no icon in the EVF to indicate that it is active so I find myself trying to use it and it is not there. You can toggle different modes with the Info button, so sometimes it inadvertently get changed to another mode and I don't know it.
The worst thing though is that if you use touch focus to reduce the size of the focus box and actually see it (I have a hard time seeing the focus box), S/H gets turned off - not available. I don't understand why. I also like the touch focus implementation and want to use both but can't.
As long as I am bitching, I don't like the back button focus lock setup that Olympus uses. I much prefer the GH2 method. With Oly, the button refocuses on each press and you are confined to using only this to focus, no half press, without going into the menu or using workarounds which have other problems. With the GH2, press to focus and green focus box is shown. Focus is now locked. Press again and green focus box disappears and half press focus is active. So if I want to change from back button to half press, which I often do, it is quick and easy. If I want to refocus a locked focus, two quick presses does it. Easy to remember and do.
Larry
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Hi Roy, last week I bought the OM-D EM-5 here in Nuremberg and spent a considerable amount of time scanning German forums for the optimal configuration of the camera.
Especially I focused on the optimal handling if you want to adapt old lenses (like Minolta MD 50mm 1,4 or MD 200mm 4,0). I proceeded in the following way for "my" optimal configuration:
1. Be sure that the super control panel (SCP) is active (->camera settings: D Disp)
2. Assign the magnify function to button "Fn2" (-> camera settings: B Button/Dial)
3. Enable image stabilization when the shuter button is pressed halfway (-> camera settings: C Release)
Whenever I mount a MF lense, I at first go into the SCP and touch the image stabilizer button. A new menue pops up which offers a direct change of the focal length using the "info button". value= 200 e.g. for MD 200mm.
After this initial set-up you can activate the green magnifier rectangle via button "Fn2". If required you resize the rectangle or change the x-y-position.
When you press the "Fn2" a second time the magnified live view is active. If you press the release shutter half way the image is stabilized and you can finally adjust the focus and release the shutter or return to the non-magnified view by shortly pressing the "Fn2" a third time. If you press the "Fn2" about 1/2 a second
the green rectangle totally vanishes.
On my Flickr page you find some images I recently took in order to test the M.Zuiko 20mm 2,0 and the already mentioned MD lenses; all images are freehand without image postprocessing:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/79688720@N07/ (http://www.flickr.com/photos/79688720@N07/)
Cheers, Wolfgang.
Thanks Wolfgang, this is very useful.
Cheers,
Bernard
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Another point worth noting is that the IS function is keyed to F/L. Use SCP > IS > OK > info. Info jumps the selection to the F/L box which you can then adjust using <>. I still haven't determined under what circumstances this is critical however it isn't obvious.
Roy
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Hello Roy, although I lack a deep understanding how the closed loop control in the camera ensures a stabilzed image, it seems obvious that the F/L is one of the "must" parameters. During my first tests with my new camera I misunderstood the parameter and I set the value to 400mm instead of 200mm and I was disappointed that the stabilization of the mounted MD 200mm didn't have any tangible effect.
I guess that whenever you mount a mft zoom lense the momentary value of F/L is transferred electronically.
Cheers, Wolfgang.
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I am curious about the E-M5 as a successor/partner to my 4/3 SLR gear, so am very happy for this thread of user reviews and comments.
Any comments on usability with adapted 4/3 SLR lenses?
One thing I notice is that the discussion is almost all about ergonomics, and in particular the elaborate system of menus, settings and controls, rather than about image quality, where the attitude seems to be "It's good enough for the intended use, nothing much more to say".
One conclusion about the settings, menus and controls though: stay away from this camera, Rob C!
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Hello Roy, although I lack a deep understanding how the closed loop control in the camera ensures a stabilzed image, it seems obvious that the F/L is one of the "must" parameters. During my first tests with my new camera I misunderstood the parameter and I set the value to 400mm instead of 200mm and I was disappointed that the stabilization of the mounted MD 200mm didn't have any tangible effect.
I guess that whenever you mount a mft zoom lense the momentary value of F/L is transferred electronically.
Cheers, Wolfgang.
Even with the 12-50 kit zoom on board you can still set this value to a fixed f/l. Which seems a bit odd...
Roy
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In response to BJL, I think you should get this camera in hand, with the lens(es) you intend to use, before buying it. I tried it in the store, with the 12-50 kit lens attached. My reaction was that that lens was designed to balance rather nicely with the camera, felt svelte, in fact. The impression may have been helped by the fact that the lens was in silver finish. Pancake-style lenses would work nicely. I knew that my m4/3 14-140 wouldn't feel nearly as good. As for my collection of 4/3rds lenses I bought for my old E-1 and E-3? I think you'd feel you had a tugboat pulling a canoe, and the camera is the canoe. Am I exaggerating? Well, I didn't put a 4/3 lens on the camera, and of course you'd have to add the (small) bulk of the adapter, too; I think much depends on how you want this combination to feel for hand-held shooting. Also, the "grip," such as it is, is puny. With a large lens on this camera, you will never hold the camera/lens combination by the camera, always and only by your hand around the lens. You asked about image quality. I think the m4/3 cameras with their lenses have given me files every bit as good as I got from the larger/heavier lenses on my 4/3rds cameras. And the sensor, while maintaining the same size as the older sensor (in fact, at least some of the new ones are larger to accomodate variable aspect ratios) enjoys the benefits of advances in engineering. --Barbara
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Barbara,
Thanks for the comments. Fortunately for me, the whole issue of "lens-body size imbalance" has always been irrelevant: I support the weight of a camera with my left hand under the lens and maybe partly under the body, and simply position it far enough forward or back to get a comfortable balance, with my right hand only operating controls, not bearing any weight.
However, for carrying the camera, I am hoping to get a "knuckle strap" for whatever EVIL camera I eventually choose: one that attaches to the body at both top and bottom on the right hand side and wraps behind the knuckles. With a light camera, that could give my grip on the camera enough "back-up" to allow me to do away with the neck strap.
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I rather liked the ergonomics of the camera. I put on a wrist strap instead of neck strap, then the "thumb wedge" on the upper right part of the back side (not sure what else to call it) allowed me to grip the camera easily with thumb on the back and 2 fingers on the front. However, there is no 2nd lug on the bottom of the camera for a knuckle strap. I do have a knuckle strap from opteka where the bottom screws into the tripod mount, so that may be an option.
On image quality my initial impression is very good. Better low-light performance than my 7D. Did a few test shots at 12,800 and although needed a fair amount of noise reduction, were certainly very usable.
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I find I am really liking the E-M5, it pairs very nicely with either the Panasonic 20mm or the Panasonic pancake 14-42mm zoom, which is a teriffic lens if (a) you don't have a copy that suffers from the ghosting issue and (b) you don't mind the slowish apertures (esp. at tele end). Since I come from the Olympus E-5, I did some head to head comparisons between the pancake zoom and the Olympus 14-54mm Mk II, at various focal lengths and subjects, and at my normal shooting aperture of around f5.6, handheld in good light it's totally a toss up between the two at 100 and 200% pixel peeping. I have adapted fine to the EVF, however, the technology is still evolving, since the screen has much less dynamic range than the sensor, so it's not yet in WYSIWYG land. My only real gripe with the camera is that button placement is a little cramped. I carry it with a light wrist strap, to carry I either "palm" the camera with thumb and index finger around the lens, or hold the camera pinched between my thumb and first two fingers. I have become pretty much a convert to m4/3 for "on foot" photography, and the gear is only going to keep getting better. Exciting times, if you ask me.
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Even with the 12-50 kit zoom on board you can still set this value to a fixed f/l. Which seems a bit odd...
Roy
Hi Roy, I consent, this sub-menue should not be accessible if a MFT lense is mounted. The programmers of the firmware just forgot the 2nd step to implement:
1. Unneccessary elements in the IS menue are greyed. This information gives a hint about the F/L , if one wants to change to a non MFT lense for the next shot. -> Implementation o.k.
2. If the unneccessary elements are greyed the access to the sub menue via "Info" should be blocked.
As a matter of fact, even if I change the F/L to 1000mm the ISIR just works fine with my M.Zuiko 12mm 1:2. Conclusion: This parameter is not read although it is open for change by the user. ->Small software bug.
Cheers, Wolfgang.
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I think for people worried about the small size of the camera and getting a firm hold the two part grip and battery pack make a big difference to the ergonomic's.
I'm not a fan of making a small camera big with gadgets attached all over it, but the simple first stage grip adds that level of security more common with big DSLR's. The second stage battery pack adds the other release and function buttons, and makes instant sense when using a bigger telephoto lens. Olympus should be congratulated on thinking up the two part accessory grip, it shows a commitment to making photographers happy.
As for being happy, the more I use the E-M5 the more I smile at its shear brilliance and versatility. A camera that can do almost any type of photography well, be it street, landscape or sport. One word about the magnify function for manual lenses. You don't need to assign the Fn2 button to this in the menu section. Press the Fn2 button down and rotate the front dial at the same time and you will get a series of options for that button, one of which is 'magnify'.
Steve
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The impossibility of having both the reduced size focus/zoom box - there seems to be some dispute as to it's exact function - and the histogram at the same time, is an infuriating software design error and needs urgent fixing. Do you concur, Wolfgang?
Another associated bug occurs after you have downsized the (grossly oversized) default rectangle. Now the control of its position by the cursor arrows becomes almost impossible - the damned thing flies about all over the place. Getting it into the position you require is an interminably frustrating fiddle: useless. As far as I know there isn't a centering function, which would at least help.
Of course they probably won't fix these simple problems in a firmware release - they'll release a new camera and expect us to throw away the E-M5. No manufacturer tests software properly before releasing the cameras. This stuff happens all the time. In the case of very specific odd configurations bugs will always emerge however any user, given a couple of days or at most weeks, will identify the sort of obvious deficiency mentioned above. Currently we are paying the manufacturers (an "early adopter" premium) to do the final production testing...
Roy
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Roy, boy do I agree. It makes using this camera like driving a Rolls Royce with a flat tire. Add to the nits that I can't usually see the normal focus box-too dim.
Larry
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Roy, boy do I agree...Add to the nits that I can't usually see the normal focus box-too dim.
Larry
Larry.
This really surprises me. Mine is adequately bright, and then some. Have you compared it with another example of the camera?
Roy
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Hello Roy, as far as the combination of the live histogram and the reduced size focus/zoom box in ONE screen is concerened, I completely consent, not implemented! Nevertheless the customized Fn2 as described in one of my earlier comments helps a lot:
As the x-y-location of the magnification box also depends on the position of the standard focus box this results in an "special" behavior:
Let us assume both focuses are configured in such a way that the standard focus box is centered and the reduced size focus/zoom box shifted to the left lower corner. S-AF is on:
If the standard focus is activated you can add the live histogramm (via INFO button), if you then press the Fn2 the alternate focus is displayed (unfortunately without histogramm !!!).
If you press the Fn2 long (short = magnification is active) live histogramm and standard focus are shown again as expected.
If you half press the release button when the standard focus box is shown, the position of the reduced size focus/zoom box is automatically shifted to the (new) position of the standard box. This is an background operation in the camtera which only becomes visible when you press the Fn2 again.
For my practical use when I shoot in S-AF-mode:
I always use the standard focus box which can be maneuvered by the 4 arrow keys. If the photographic situation requires a smaller focus area I just press the pre-configured Fn2 button to size down the focus area.
Alternatively I use the pair of wheels on the right top side of the camera to move the standard focus box once it is activated by pressing either of the arrow keys. So I always regard the reduced size focus/zoom box as an refinement of the standard focus and not as stand-alone function in comparison to other cameras.
Hint: If one needs to resize the focus box one just presses the INFO button when the reduced size focus/zoom box is already displayed. This works in the same way with the SCP or EFV.
Another item:
A centering function for the standard focus seems not to be implemented as a default, but you can assign the home function for the focus box to either one of the buttons: Fn1, Fn1. Even the Record button makes sense, if it doesn't matter to you to turn the menue wheel and utilize the release shutter for starting the movie recording.
Cheers, Wolfgang.
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Wolfgang,
Thanks for your helpful posts - you have dug pretty deep.
I take it that there is no way to do what Panasonic cameras do automatically - press one button to bring up the magnified view, focus your manual lens, then half-press the shutter to cancel the magnified view? My workaround is to assign the 'digital teleconverter' to a button, which gives you 2X magnification (quite good enough for focusing in most instances). But you then have to press the button again to cancel the digital teleconverter before pressing the shutter - otherwise you have just thrown out half your photo. Frustrating doesn't begin to describe the situation...
Any further guidance much appreciated. Great little camera otherwise (although I share some of Michael's criticisms).
Cheers,
Kirk
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I take it that there is no way to do what Panasonic cameras do automatically - press one button to bring up the magnified view, focus your manual lens, then half-press the shutter to cancel the magnified view? My workaround is to assign the 'digital teleconverter' to a button, which gives you 2X magnification (quite good enough for focusing in most instances). But you then have to press the button again to cancel the digital teleconverter before pressing the shutter - otherwise you have just thrown out half your photo. Frustrating doesn't begin to describe the situation...
Your Fn2 button has a few options already assigned to it, one of which is 'Magnify'. Press Fn2 and at the same time turn the front control dial, the options will appear, choose 'Magnify'. Then all you need to do is press Fn2, the first press brings up the smaller focus box (if you have adjusted the size to make it smaller). You can now carry on shooting with the small box if that is all you want. If you want the magnified view for manual focus press the Fn2 gain, and you get the selected part of the image magnified. Half press the shutter to go back to normal view, fully press to take the photograph, you don't need to touch Fn2 although it will cancel the magnified view.
Steve
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Thanks Steve,
I had tried that without any luck. After hitting the Fn2 button nothing happened, but if I hit it a few times it finally would bring up the zooming frame - after that it behaved as you describe, but the process had to be repeated after each power-up.
The trick, it turns out, is that when you finally get the zooming frame, hit Fn2 again, which zooms and shows you where the zooming frame is located in the overall frame. Once you have got the zooming frame where you want it, you have to hit OK in order to register this position. Once registered, everything works exactly as you describe.
Not sure if this is documented in the manual (or maybe it is just very well hidden). But thanks for encouraging me to persevere.
Cheers,
Kirk
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Kirk, on mine I don't need to press 'OK', just Fn2 for the focus frame (move it if I want to), Fn2 again for the magnified view and it magnify's the bit I wanted, then focus and the shutter button to return to normal view. I did originally make the mistake of keeping Fn2 pressed thinking it would bring up a magnified view, but it is just a touch.
Steve