Luminous Landscape Forum
Equipment & Techniques => Medium Format / Film / Digital Backs – and Large Sensor Photography => Topic started by: bpepz on May 13, 2011, 11:19:34 am
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I mainly do food photography and really need to start being able to use swing/tilt movements. The world of 4x5s and such are completely alien to me and have no idea where to start. Actually that's a little bit of a lie, from what I've seen the sinar p1 should be able to work for me, I already own a mamiya mount sliding adapter for sinar 4x5, so I am looking to go in the sinar direction. The part I am completely lost in is what lenses can physically attach to the sinar p? What kind of shutters work with which lenses? How is it all supposed to even fit together? I am probably making this way more complicated then it needs to be but maybe someone can help clear up my misunderstanding.
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I mainly do food photography and really need to start being able to use swing/tilt movements. The world of 4x5s and such are completely alien to me and have no idea where to start. Actually that's a little bit of a lie, from what I've seen the sinar p1 should be able to work for me, I already own a mamiya mount sliding adapter for sinar 4x5, so I am looking to go in the sinar direction. The part I am completely lost in is what lenses can physically attach to the sinar p? What kind of shutters work with which lenses? How is it all supposed to even fit together? I am probably making this way more complicated then it needs to be but maybe someone can help clear up my misunderstanding.
Where are you - perhaps there is a member who can show you the basics... and/or you could read Harold Merklinger's "focusing the view camera" which was available for free download.
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Here is a brief article I wrote about movements a few years ago...http://www.luminous-landscape.com/tutorials/movements.shtml (http://www.luminous-landscape.com/tutorials/movements.shtml)
A book on the subject is really needed and the article has some references.
Just be aware that an MF back's sensor is much smaller than 4X5" and therefore the amount of movements needed will be much smaller as well.
Just about any view camera lens ever made can be used. It just has to be mounted on a Sinar lens board so that it can be attached.
But also be aware that an MF back is a much higher resolution device than film, and demands very fine lenses. The latest Schneider and Rodenstock lenses designed for digital use are therefore highly recommended.
Michael
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Thanks for the info so far, especially about the sinar lens boards. But what about shutters? What kind of compatibility do they have? As far as movements I know a very basic amount, I've been using the rz67 tilt adapter but found it is extremely limited, considering it does not even do swing, and cannot move more the then 12 degrees of tilt. Also for the poster interested I am located in columbus ohio. But anyway, I will read those articals and see what I can find out. Thanks again everyone.
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Thanks for the info so far, especially about the sinar lens boards. But what about shutters? What kind of compatibility do they have?
Copal are the most popular shutters.
The shutter size is indicated by a number - most modern digital lenses up to 200mm use size 0 shutter. The lens board and lens have to be compatible with the shutter.
For very wide lenses (shorter than 50mm) you may need recessed lensboards to get infinity focus.
Mostly any shutter will do (most do 1/500th) unless you want a self-cocking press shutter or electronic shutters. If you are buying old shutters, check all the speeds.
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focus is critical on a sliding back. best to shoot wide open and make sure the ground glass and back are perfectly aligned. my flex adapter(p1) is not perfect, like most, and i need to change focus by a few mm to get perfect focus.
while i do reccomend the newer digital lenses, rodenstock has a 105mm, digital for about a grand. very nice.. also later, more modern lenses, esp those marked APO do well (atleast with the older backs, P25).
you will need a cable to sync the lens and back together most likely. its kindof a mess of wires. you usually have to wake the back up with one shutter press on one release then trip the shutter release to make an exposure. connect any strobes to the back itself. there is the one shot cable by kapture group that takes just one press to wake and shoot, it runs 400 tho. nice for a plate camera, like a cambo wide ds, alpa or similiar but the other way really isnt that bad.
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focus is critical on a sliding back. best to shoot wide open and make sure the ground glass and back are perfectly aligned. my flex adapter(p1) is not perfect, like most, and i need to change focus by a few mm to get perfect focus.
while i do reccomend the newer digital lenses, rodenstock has a 105mm, digital for about a grand. very nice.. also later, more modern lenses, esp those marked APO do well (atleast with the older backs, P25).
you will need a cable to sync the lens and back together most likely. its kindof a mess of wires. you usually have to wake the back up with one shutter press on one release then trip the shutter release to make an exposure. connect any strobes to the back itself. there is the one shot cable by kapture group that takes just one press to wake and shoot, it runs 400 tho. nice for a plate camera, like a cambo wide ds, alpa or similiar but the other way really isnt that bad.
sounds a bit like how I have my rz67 setup. I've got a sync cable from the lens shutter attached to the digital back, and I use a cactus v4 with a cable attached to my leaf back.The cactus v4 actually works pretty good with the rz, flash even syncs at 1/400th. As for the rodenstock 105mm are you talking about the apo-rodagon D enlarger lens?
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The greatest assistance you will get is using the "Live Video" option when thethered.
It is by far, much better than doing the set up on the ground glass and fiddling around with a magnifier and hood over your head...
Good luck and enjoy because the results should fantastic.
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The greatest assistance you will get is using the "Live Video" option when thethered.
It is by far, much better than doing the set up on the ground glass and fiddling around with a magnifier and hood over your head...
Good luck and enjoy because the results should fantastic.
Does anyone have experience with live view on a leaf back? I had talked to someone before and they said it was not very usable, I would be interested to hear other opinions.
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Depending on which back you have, as some backs offer colour for live view (slow) but the b&w is just fine and fast enough providing your pilot light is bright enough and is very useful.
If you can get access to an electronic shutter system like Rollei or Schneider the opening of the shutter is easier to operate whereas the simple types are a bit of a hassle having to open and close by going to the lens each time. That said many studios have worked the manual way without finding it too much of a bother.
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Does anyone have experience with live view on a leaf back? I had talked to someone before and they said it was not very usable, I would be interested to hear other opinions.
In my biased opinion it's the ONLY usable Live View on ANY digital back...and I've tried all of them...
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In my biased opinion it's the ONLY usable Live View on ANY digital back...and I've tried all of them...
¿including the daylight live view on the Sinar (with LC shutter)?
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this is the lens i was refering to and the one i own. works just like a 4x5 lens, optics just refined for digital use
http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/177793-USA/Rodenstock_150131_105mm_f_5_6_Apo_Sironar_digital.html
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In my biased opinion it's the ONLY usable Live View on ANY digital back...and I've tried all of them...
Yaya, how about using italic for emphasis rather than underline (underline means hyperlink).
;)
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I have used the live view on my last two Leaf Backs--it works but is slow, as I suspect they all are with this type of sensor. I have nothing to compare it to however. You haven't mentioned which Leaf back you have. I'm not sure if the earlier ones have live view even in the tethered mode. I found working with ground glass and two loupes--one about 3x and the other as high as the grit of the ground glass will allow you to distinguish focus v unfocussed. I use a 20x but am using an Alpa with an extremely fine ground glass. Minimum movements will be all you should need.