Luminous Landscape Forum
Raw & Post Processing, Printing => Printing: Printers, Papers and Inks => Topic started by: Light Seeker on January 25, 2010, 12:59:31 pm
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I find gloss differential to almost be a non-issue with my Epson 3800 on gloss media, but areas of pure white (e.g. paper only - no ink laid down) still bother me. I have been vacillating between applying a gloss optimizer coat / spraying, and leaving the print as-is. With images having little pure white, it is of course much easier to overlook.
I would really like to get a sense as to how most of you view and/or handle this.
Do you coat your prints?
Do you deliver them to your customer as-is? If so, do you ever receive complaints?
Do you adjust the image to eliminate pure white (e.g. change the brightest pixels from 255 to a lower value)?
Any other thoughts and/or comments on this would be appreciated.
Thanks.
Terry.
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I find gloss differential to almost be a non-issue with my Epson 3800 on gloss media, but areas of pure white (e.g. paper only - no ink laid down) still bother me. I have been vacillating between applying a gloss optimizer coat / spraying, and leaving the print as-is. With images having little pure white, it is of course much easier to overlook.
I would really like to get a sense as to how most of you view and/or handle this.
Do you coat your prints?
Do you deliver them to your customer as-is? If so, do you ever receive complaints?
Do you adjust the image to eliminate pure white (e.g. change the brightest pixels from 255 to a lower value)?
Any other thoughts and/or comments on this would be appreciated.
Thanks.
Terry.
Terry,
I'm guessing that the reason that the paper white area still bother you is that there is enough gloss differential to cause a noticeable contrast between pure white and an area with the least amount of ink screened on it. Coating can help to reduce this by creating a more uniform degree of gloss across the surface of the print, although it can be a real pain. You might also want to play around with other paper options, such as a semigloss or simply a different brand of paper, i've never been a big fan of epson premium glossy, although a lot of my customers were. You could also limit the upper tonal limits to stop below 255, although generally speaking ideally only specular highlights should be going to the full 255,255,255 if large areas are going pure white you might want to play around with your image conversion workflow a bit. When I worked as a printmaker I generally found that I was more picky than most of my customers and coated most of my glossy prints. Although with the printers I used gloss differential, and bronzing, was more of an issue. I would say that it's best to try and reduce the issue in the file and with proper color management. To do coating efficiently without causing brain damage requires an investment in time material and a good space with proper ventilation.
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I'm guessing that the reason that the paper white area still bother you is that there is enough gloss differential to cause a noticeable contrast between pure white and an area with the least amount of ink screened on it.
That is correct, although I believe what bothers me more is the difference in reflectance. It's when I move the print around and catch the light at different angles that the issue manifests. Image areas with 255, 255, 255 content looks flat whereas the rest looks shiny.
You might also want to play around with other paper options, such as a semigloss or simply a different brand of paper, i've never been a big fan of epson premium glossy, although a lot of my customers were.
I should clarify. . . I'm talking about Museo Silver Rag and Hahnmehule Photo Rag Baryta.
You could also limit the upper tonal limits to stop below 255, although generally speaking ideally only specular highlights should be going to the full 255,255,255 if large areas are going pure white you might want to play around with your image conversion workflow a bit.
I'm referring to spectral highlights, although some images by their very nature may contain more pure white. I also make prints for others, where I don't control this.
Coating can help to reduce this by creating a more uniform degree of gloss across the surface of the print, although it can be a real pain.
To do coating efficiently without causing brain damage requires an investment in time material and a good space with proper ventilation.
I have used Print Shield in the past on a small scale, but I'm trying to eliminate it. Currently, I'm experimenting with a gloss optimizer in a second printer, and applying this during a second pass through the printer. It's obviously extra work and time, but much safer!
I would say that it's best to try and reduce the issue in the file and with proper color management.
I have also started experimenting with curve to move 255, 255, 255 down in value an appropriate amount. Some loss of dynamic range will result, but it may not be noticeable.
When I worked as a printmaker I generally found that I was more picky than most of my customers and coated most of my glossy prints.
This is the million dollar question. Am I being too picky, and creating extra work and cost for myself in the process! That's why I'm so curious about what others are doing.
Thanks.
Terry.
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The only method that works 100% is to spray (I use a professional spray gun) the print with a non-yellowing lacquer; my preference has always been automotive, but you can get a great job from a spray can. When Epson sends sample prints every single one has had GD. I can't figure Epson out, there's no doubt they have the technology to apply a clear coating, but they don't find it necessary. I don't know why the GD bothers me so much other than I am an anal retentive perfectionist I also do coatings on prints that are poured on finishes or 10 coats of hand rubbed acrylic urethane. It usually takes about 2-3 coats of lacquer to completely hide the GD. I also have a problem with the lack of a black black, the only way to achieve that is to use a dye printer and I still use a 1280 to accomplish that feat. Mounting the print behind a piece of glass also works to eliminate the GD,