Luminous Landscape Forum
Equipment & Techniques => Medium Format / Film / Digital Backs – and Large Sensor Photography => Topic started by: PLLove on July 26, 2009, 11:28:13 pm
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Ok, I'm going to give the RZ67 a whirl again. I'm excited!
I just purchased the Mamiya RZ67 adapter plate (http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/502724-REG/Mamiya_212_107_RZ_Digital_Back_Adapter.html) off Ebay.
Question: Do you have to have the RZ67 PROIID camera or can I get buy with the PRO II with the appropriate cables? I will be using my Leaf Aptus 22 (Mamiya mount of course).
Thanks for your help!
Patrick
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Ok, I'm going to give the RZ67 a whirl again. I'm excited!
I just purchased the Mamiya RZ67 adapter plate (http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/502724-REG/Mamiya_212_107_RZ_Digital_Back_Adapter.html) off Ebay.
Question: Do you have to have the RZ67 PROIID camera or can I get buy with the PRO II with the appropriate cables? I will be using my Leaf Aptus 22 (Mamiya mount of course).
Thanks for your help!
Patrick
Hi Patrick if you've already got a ProII body (or if it is easier/ cheaper for you) then all you need is a lens-to-back sync cable. If your camera has a motor drive and you like to trigger it remotely from the Mac then you can buy the camera-control cable as well. Both cables can be ordered through a Leaf dealer.
And don't forget to set the back to "Mamiya RZ" in the camera settings menu.
Enjoy
Yair
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Hi Patrick if you've already got a ProII body (or if it is easier/ cheaper for you) then all you need is a lens-to-back sync cable. If your camera has a motor drive and you like to trigger it remotely from the Mac then you can buy the camera-control cable as well. Both cables can be ordered through a Leaf dealer.
And don't forget to set the back to "Mamiya RZ" in the camera settings menu.
Enjoy
Yair
Thanks Yair! Yeah, the PRO II is much cheaper and if the "D" isn't critical, I wont bother with the extra expensive. Times are tight!
I love the 645 AFDII camera (and it will remain my workhorse), but the RZ is just so fun to shoot!
-PL
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Once you get a grip of Rz again, your other camera will end up onEbay. Have fun and welcome home.
Andre
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Once you get a grip of Rz again, your other camera will end up onEbay. Have fun and welcome home.
Andre
You're probably right Andre. Looking forward to the RZ. I still haven't purchased the camera yet. I just got a good deal on a digital back adapter (~$300). No anyone with a nice RZ67 PRO II or PRO IID for sell??
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I use an RZ ProII with PhaseOne adapter plate for hasselblad V mount
combined for now with a P20 back
It gives such great results that I wanted to have met the RZ before I met the Hasselblad 503CW ...
Still, on film, 6x7 is GREAT !
There is nothing wrong with film,
I like particulary RZ with E100SW and PROVIA
WOW !!!
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You're probably right Andre. Looking forward to the RZ. I still haven't purchased the camera yet. I just got a good deal on a digital back adapter (~$300). No anyone with a nice RZ67 PRO II or PRO IID for sell??
Hello,
I've been using the Mamiya RZ for 20 years and have to say its been a pleasure.
Attached is a link to a local auction site you might be interested in.
http://www.trademe.co.nz/Electronics-photo...n-231793846.htm (http://www.trademe.co.nz/Electronics-photography/Film-cameras/Other-formats/auction-231793846.htm)
Cheers
Simon
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I get my RZ equiptment from www.keh.com
I would never sell my "portable" MF system, on location I love the AF and portablity of that camera.
But in the studio it's 90% the RZ I use.
The quality of the files is just amazing.
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Question: Do you have to have the RZ67 PROIID camera or can I get buy with the PRO II with the appropriate cables? I will be using my Leaf Aptus 22 (Mamiya mount of course).
Not sure if it affects Leaf or not but apparently there are battery drain issues with using Pro IID + P1 which aren't present on the Pro II when using a cable. Some seem to have a preference for the Pro II because of this ...
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Not sure if it affects Leaf or not but apparently there are battery drain issues with using Pro IID + P1 which aren't present on the Pro II when using a cable. Some seem to have a preference for the Pro II because of this ...
Yeh you just have to take the adaptor plate off when in storage or you can take the batteries out like I do.
No Big deal. And it is the adaptor plate and has nothing to do with leaf. I have the Mamiya adaptor plate and Phase set up and it happens also.
Snook
PS. I too use just the RZ in studio these days and I originally bought it to be able to sync at 400/th outdoors but it is a little to big and cumbersome to use outdoor when shooting a lot of images. For portraits no problem.
Also the WLF is the only finder I can see well with. Took me a while to get the focus down but now I am getting about 80-90% in focus..:+}
If you can afford it I would get the "D" as less cables is better in my opinion.
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Yeh you just have to take the adaptor plate off when in storage or you can take the batteries out like I do.
No Big deal. And it is the adaptor plate and has nothing to do with leaf. I have the Mamiya adaptor plate and Phase set up and it happens also.
Snook
PS. I too use just the RZ in studio these days and I originally bought it to be able to sync at 400/th outdoors but it is a little to big and cumbersome to use outdoor when shooting a lot of images. For portraits no problem.
Also the WLF is the only finder I can see well with. Took me a while to get the focus down but now I am getting about 80-90% in focus..:+}
If you can afford it I would get the "D" as less cables is better in my opinion.
Thanks everyone! I think I will opt for the PRO II at this point for $$$ reasons. There are some excellent deals right now for the bodies +110mm lens. I will also get the 50, 140 and 180mm.
I was interested in hearing other's opinions on the finders. Snook, it seems that the WLF is your preference. Anyone else using the PRISM finder?
-PL
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Make sure the shutters are clean on the lenses you are getting or there can be strange sync issues. If they are used and/or more than a few years old I'd have them CLA'd first.
The battery issue is with the Mamiya adapter plate only, not the Leaf.
Otherwise it is a great system. Another sleeper lens to look out for is the RB 127 KL.
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I was interested in hearing other's opinions on the finders. Snook, it seems that the WLF is your preference. Anyone else using the PRISM finder?
-PL
WLF is the only way to focus it on DB in my opinion. WLF is dark and image looks like the light at the end of a tunnel.
Andre
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WLF is the only way to focus it on DB in my opinion. WLF is dark and image looks like the light at the end of a tunnel.
Andre
Andre you meant Prism finder not the WLF...
And I agree 100% the prism finder looks like a long tunnel to hell.. Cannot focus worth beans with it. The only bummer with the WLF is when you have to shoot from up high and you need a ladder to get on top of the WLF to see down...
The 145 Macro "M" is also a stellar lens if you ask me.
All the lens on the RZ have great contrast and are pretty sharp.
I use the 65mm,110,145mm macro mostly. Sometimes the 180mm for beauty but havebeen using the 145 macro more lately.
Depends on what back you are using but I use the P30 and there is a crop factor, not sure about the aptus 22 is it full frame?
I am looking at buying the 50mm ULD and that will finish my RZ package. Missed one the other day mint for 525.00 so do not pay those ridiculous asking prices of 750 and above!!! Not many are moving to RZ on the contrary I see more and more people dumping MF these days.
I also got a killer deal on the 145 macro from KEH camera for around 350.00 yes 350.00 and it works flawlessly!!! I have been shopping at KEH for over 10 years now and they are great!
Snook
PS> you might want to start looking for some different prism screens as I could not focus worth beans with the original PScreen and bought a Vertical split screen and usually have no troubles.
OFcourse the Bill Maxells would be the way to go if you can find one.. I had mine ripped off from me but won't go there...LOL
In my country I had a hard time finding the 44 battery that goes in the bottom of the RZ and they seem to go quickly. Maybe the Mmaiya plate issue. Also get the WinderII for sure!
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I love my RZ Pro IID. ASF kindly sold me his... thanks buddy!
I would not bother with the prism unless you need it to shoot down on something. I bought
one thinking I would use it instead of the WLF... mistake. The WLF is way brighter.
I haven't had any problems focusing with the stock screen. It is pretty easy to see the focus..
and my eyes aren't 20/20 either. I would try it first before buying another screen.
I didn't want to bother with cables so I bought the (newer!) Pro IID.
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If you are considering the RZ Pro II or Pro IID, I would ask you to look into the L-bracket that Mamiya makes. I shoot RZ and it comes in handy when you are shooting from a ladder or even handing it to an assistant. It is a 212-550 RZ L-Grip Holder and is about $225.00.
Chris Lawery(e-mail Me) (http://mailto:[email protected])
__________________
Sales Manager, Capture Integration
Phase One, Canon, Apple, Profoto, Eizo & More
National: 877.217.9870 | Cell: 404.234.5195
Newsletter: Read Latest or Sign Up (http://www.captureintegration.com/our-company/newsletters/)
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If I'm not mistaken (and I might be totally wrong on this), the ProIID adapter will NOT work on the ProII unless it is modified by Mamiya.
But Leaf (and now Mamiya, because of the DL28/33) has non-electronic adapters that work with the cables on the Pro and ProII non-D bodies with 36x48mm backs, so it's not a problem.
Regarding the electronic adapter on a ProII non-D body, Phase One documentation says (I know you have a Leaf back, not Phase, but it's still a Mamiya AFD mount back):
Mamiya RZ 67 PRO II:
P/P+ series Mamiya fitting can also be used with the the Mamiya adapter 70994. Note: The Mamiya RZ PRO II needs to be modifyed in a local Mamiya center. The image below show 2 small notches that have to be made. If these notches are not made - the adapter can be mounted however the camera cannot trigger at all!!! Once this modification has been done - the camerabody cannot be used with a film cassette.
http://phaseone.com/HOME/Content/Support/A...tid=SupportSite (http://phaseone.com/HOME/Content/Support/Article.aspx?articleid=1123&LanguageID=1&layoutid=SupportSite) - Main
I might be wrong, and everything might be fine and dandy, but I don't want the original poster to realize that the electronic adapter won't work with his setup! Someone correct me if I'm wrong.
Cheers!
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Thanks everyone! I think I will opt for the PRO II at this point for $$$ reasons. There are some excellent deals right now for the bodies +110mm lens. I will also get the 50, 140 and 180mm.
I was interested in hearing other's opinions on the finders. Snook, it seems that the WLF is your preference. Anyone else using the PRISM finder?
-PL
PLove Regarding the finder...If you get a prizm with a loop, you should be able to focus fine, but I don't use it unless I am shooting down, and it is inconvenient to get a step stool or ladder.
For a working pro, that needs the speed and being versatile, I would have both. You can get the non-meter for cheap.
I changed the gglass to a Beatie and it is rather bright. Works great with the popup magnifier.
The Lgrip is very handy, yet limited. You cant keep it on and slap it on a tripod, as the large round screw blocks it being flush. but for motion work, it is very handy. I alway have a small strap when using the RZ off tripod, as it is weighty and taking some off the wrist is very helpful.
winder is nice for some speed shooting.
I have not had a drain issue using the V plate to Phase.....(I better check)....I hardly make use of the feedback the battery supplies.
I like the tilt shift adapter also, this helps in some situations.
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Yeh you just have to take the adaptor plate off when in storage or you can take the batteries out like I do.
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Snook have you tried moving the shutter release to the lock position as per this? http://phaseone.com/home/Content/Support/a...Site%20-%20Main (http://phaseone.com/home/Content/Support/article.aspx?articleid=2237&languageid=1&layoutid=SupportSite%20-%20Main)
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I like the tilt shift adapter also, this helps in some situations.
Phil - as a note I was told the T/S adapter will not work on the Pro II because the adapter covers up the IO port where the cable would attach - apparently only works with Pro IID. If it does work I'll be kicking my self in the a$$ as it was one of the reasons I went with the Pro IID ....
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Phil - as a note I was told the T/S adapter will not work on the Pro II because the adapter covers up the IO port where the cable would attach - apparently only works with Pro IID. If it does work I'll be kicking my self in the a$$ as it was one of the reasons I went with the Pro IID ....
Sorry but start kicking my friend
I'm using it on the ProII with an Aptus back.
The main thing some people don't seem to know is that you only need the cable to the lens.
The other cable is only used for the control from the computer.
So in reality to use the camera normally you only need the small cable from the back to the lens.
Sorry.
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Phil - as a note I was told the T/S adapter will not work on the Pro II because the adapter covers up the IO port where the cable would attach - apparently only works with Pro IID. If it does work I'll be kicking my self in the a$$ as it was one of the reasons I went with the Pro IID ....
Hate to tell ya Voltman...it does work, by a wire adapter that shoots the wire downward instead of straight out.
You can pick it up from $20 to 40 roughly. The TS adapter is about $600- 900 roughly/depending used, new etc.
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Sorry but start kicking my friend
I'm using it on the ProII with an Aptus back.
The main thing some people don't seem to know is that you only need the cable to the lens.
The other cable is only used for the control from the computer.
So in reality to use the camera normally you only need the small cable from the back to the lens.
Sorry.
Even on the Phase V adapter?
Will test first thing
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Hate to tell ya Voltman...it does work, by a wire adapter that shoots the wire downward instead of straight out.
Sorry but start kicking my friend
Thanks guys for the post mortem on my purchasing decisions Oh well I did get a Pro II body anyway as it came with the 110mm lens at a song of a price - guess all I'll need is a cable or is it a different adapter plate? Meanwhile the Pro IID body cost me a bit to get into so may as well stay with it ...
Oddly enough I found the bookmark on the Phase site which gave me that impression - http://www.phaseone.com/HOME/Content/Suppo...Site%20-%20Main (http://www.phaseone.com/HOME/Content/Support/Article.aspx?articleid=2268&LanguageID=1&layoutid=SupportSite%20-%20Main) - on this and other points I'm finding their technical bulletins not exactly true in some cases such as this one concerning compatibility...
Phil I did get the TS adapter .... also have the manual if you need it in .pdf ...
All I need now is my P1 back which should arrive in about a week!!
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i am using the t/s adpter with RZ and RZproII with aptus 22.
the 2nd cable from the back to the camera port is only needed to trigger the RZ from the mac.
the t/s adapter comes with a small adapter for the trigger cable, so it works with both cameras.
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Thanks guys for the post mortem on my purchasing decisions Oh well I did get a Pro II body anyway as it came with the 110mm lens at a song of a price - guess all I'll need is a cable or is it a different adapter plate? Meanwhile the Pro IID body cost me a bit to get into so may as well stay with it ...
Oddly enough I found the bookmark on the Phase site which gave me that impression - http://www.phaseone.com/HOME/Content/Suppo...Site%20-%20Main (http://www.phaseone.com/HOME/Content/Support/Article.aspx?articleid=2268&LanguageID=1&layoutid=SupportSite%20-%20Main) - on this and other points I'm finding their technical bulletins not exactly true in some cases such as this one concerning compatibility...
Phil I did get the TS adapter .... also have the manual if you need it in .pdf ...
All I need now is my P1 back which should arrive in about a week!!
Yes initial I read the same thing. I was a bit relentless as I had already got the TS as I used film. So when I was a bit determined to make it work, I spoke to a Mamiya person and they pointed me in the right direction. I have the TS manual, and the focus screen for the back to see on the screen. I don't used it. Thanx to offer, as it can help one when they are not familiar with using TS.
It is always nice to have a backup body when in need. I have the 2x plunger for mirror and shutter....One day I was a bit eager on a shoot, and had the shutter in lock position, and without thinking as I tried to shoot, I thought I was not pushing hard, or something was odd, so I squezed harder and messed up the shutter button, and ruined the plunger thread as the force shot the pluger out. Crazy, but the metal used to make the thread on the plunger is very weak...perhaps for a reason...maybe not further damaging my camera body? Forgot to mention it also popped the "plug" for the shutter on the lens.
Thank goodness I have a spare body. I wonder if there is a reasonable repair place for this? If there is I would take it since it is sitting in a drawer. I would fix it. Otherwise I might as well just get new ones.
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Yes initial I read the same thing. I was a bit relentless as I had already got the TS as I used film. So when I was a bit determined to make it work, I spoke to a Mamiya person and they pointed me in the right direction. I have the TS manual, and the focus screen for the back to see on the screen. I don't used it. Thanx to offer, as it can help one when they are not familiar with using TS.
It is always nice to have a backup body when in need. I have the 2x plunger for mirror and shutter....One day I was a bit eager on a shoot, and had the shutter in lock position, and without thinking as I tried to shoot, I thought I was not pushing hard, or something was odd, so I squezed harder and messed up the shutter button, and ruined the plunger thread as the force shot the pluger out. Crazy, but the metal used to make the thread on the plunger is very weak...perhaps for a reason...maybe not further damaging my camera body? Forgot to mention it also popped the "plug" for the shutter on the lens.
Thank goodness I have a spare body. I wonder if there is a reasonable repair place for this? If there is I would take it since it is sitting in a drawer. I would fix it. Otherwise I might as well just get new ones.
Phil where are you located? If its the US I understand they have fairly good service there. I'm in Tokyo most of the time so I'm using the service center here - I'm having several lenses cleaned and shutters checked now so I'll find out how responsive they are in a few weeks.
I would say just buy another body but after just checking prices at KEH it seems the RZ kit has seen a price jump in the U.S., as a comparison I see Pro II bodies in Tokyo for about 30,000 JPY which is about $325 (very good condition) and on KEH listed LN at $665. In my home in the US (Honolulu) though you can't even find a decent DSLR dealer let alone MF dealer - used or new
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KEH ratings are very conservative, IMO. A "LN" rating at KEH really means it's flawless and brand spanking new, so that 600 dollar price is getting you a pristine body. The "EX" rating at KEH is like a typical "Mint" rating on eBay by those naughty questionable sellers.
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Phil where are you located? If its the US I understand they have fairly good service there. I'm in Tokyo most of the time so I'm using the service center here - I'm having several lenses cleaned and shutters checked now so I'll find out how responsive they are in a few weeks.
I would say just buy another body but after just checking prices at KEH it seems the RZ kit has seen a price jump in the U.S., as a comparison I see Pro II bodies in Tokyo for about 30,000 JPY which is about $325 (very good condition) and on KEH listed LN at $665. In my home in the US (Honolulu) though you can't even find a decent DSLR dealer let alone MF dealer - used or new
I dont use the RZ enough to get a backup for it, so unless its in the low hundereds for the repair, it will be sitting :-)
If there are any special contact repair #s for Mamiya that can help, please list :-)
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I dont use the RZ enough to get a backup for it, so unless its in the low hundereds for the repair, it will be sitting :-)
If there are any special contact repair #s for Mamiya that can help, please list :-)
I think this is the connector that you are speaking of. It comes out of RZ body at 90 degrees and allows you to attach your cables to your plate adapter.
It's a must have if you are using the TS adapter. It is a #212-521 rep. cable release cord and is $77.95.
[attachment=15856:Picture_6.png]
[font="Arial"]Chris Lawery(e-mail Me) (http://mailto:[email protected])
__________________
Sales Manager, Capture Integration
Phase One, Canon, Apple, Profoto, Eizo & More
National: 877.217.9870 | Cell: 404.234.5195
Newsletter: Read Latest or Sign Up (http://www.captureintegration.com/our-company/newsletters/)[/fon
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It's a must have if you are using the TS adapter. It is a #212-521 rep. cable release cord and is $77.95.
[attachment=15856:Picture_6.png]
[font="Arial"]Chris Lawery(e-mail Me) (http://mailto:[email protected])
__________________
Sales Manager, Capture Integration
Phase One, Canon, Apple, Profoto, Eizo & More
National: 877.217.9870 | Cell: 404.234.5195
Newsletter: Read Latest or Sign Up (http://www.captureintegration.com/our-company/newsletters/)[/fon
Thats the one Chris!
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Confused...what's the advantage to the electronic shutter release? Doesn't it eliminate the benefit of MLU, which is why we use the dual cable releases in the first place? (Or worse...the triple cable if you need the wake-up trigger).
I somehow got ahold of some sundry adapters for mine...one that triggers the electronic release from a mechanical cable, and another that I think triggers it from a PC sync input....or vice versa?
Didn't make any sense to me, vs. the MLU approach. What am I missing?
My back also needs the "wake-up call", but I finagled that by using a cellphone earbud. I hit the "answer" button, and voila...it wakes up.
Greg
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Thanks guys for the post mortem on my purchasing decisions Oh well I did get a Pro II body anyway as it came with the 110mm lens at a song of a price - guess all I'll need is a cable or is it a different adapter plate? Meanwhile the Pro IID body cost me a bit to get into so may as well stay with it ...
Oddly enough I found the bookmark on the Phase site which gave me that impression - http://www.phaseone.com/HOME/Content/Suppo...Site%20-%20Main (http://www.phaseone.com/HOME/Content/Support/Article.aspx?articleid=2268&LanguageID=1&layoutid=SupportSite%20-%20Main) - on this and other points I'm finding their technical bulletins not exactly true in some cases such as this one concerning compatibility...
Phil I did get the TS adapter .... also have the manual if you need it in .pdf ...
All I need now is my P1 back which should arrive in about a week!!
Voitman. I have been going crazy looking for the pdf for the Mamiya T/S adapter.
Could you please email to me at tom AT thephotofather DOT com
I would be very greatful.
Thank you tons.
Tom
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Confused...what's the advantage to the electronic shutter release? Doesn't it eliminate the benefit of MLU, which is why we use the dual cable releases in the first place?
with a leaf back, the only advantage of the electronic cable from camera to back is that you can trigger the RZ from your tethered mac with LC11 via fire wire.
it might be helpful in live view mode, but you have to control focus, shutter, aperture by hand anyway.
mirror lock up does not work from the computer, nor with any electronic release (IR trigger etc)
like in film days, you need a mechanical cable attached to the lens for that.
so the electronic release is no substitute for the RZ dual cable release, as you indeed loose the mirror prerelease.
the electronic cable can be used with any lens.
to use it with the t/s adapter, you need the right angle connector, that comes in the box, together with the t/s adapter.