Luminous Landscape Forum
Equipment & Techniques => Medium Format / Film / Digital Backs – and Large Sensor Photography => Topic started by: Frank Doorhof on March 04, 2009, 02:34:04 pm
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Hi,
Today I got a T&S adaptor for the RZ67ProII.
I mounted the unit and tried the 110mm/90mm/180mm but I have to stand ridicilously close to my subject to get a focus, so close it's not usable to get a full face in the screen.
This would render the unit useless for what I want to use it, portraits and full body fashion shots.
Because there is little to no information on the use of this unit I wonder if someone here can help out.
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Hi,
Today I got a T&S adaptor for the RZ67ProII.
I mounted the unit and tried the 110mm/90mm/180mm but I have to stand ridicilously close to my subject to get a focus, so close it's not usable to get a full face in the screen.
This would render the unit useless for what I want to use it, portraits and full body fashion shots.
Because there is little to no information on the use of this unit I wonder if someone here can help out.
You are effectively adding a Macro Spacer by adding the T&S adapter.
What you need is one of the Short Barrel (SB) Lenses (unless your goal is macro table top). These lenses are designed with the TS adapter in mind. There is a 75mm SB and a 180mm SB lens. Any Mamiya dealer (including us) can sell you one.
Doug Peterson, Head of Technical Services
Capture Integration, Phase One & Canon Dealer (http://www.captureintegration.com) | Personal Portfolio (http://www.doug-peterson.com)
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Can I use the shortbarrels for landscapes and full bodies ?
So the longbarrels are only for macro ?
Wish I knew that before
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By the way do you know if the short barrel 180 is a better quality lens than the long barrel 180mm ?
Otherwise it's an option to sell the 180 LB and get the SB version.
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Hi Frank,
The 180mm LB and SB are the same when it comes to lens configuration. That is why I sold my LB version.
The 75mm SB is a very nice piece of glass and if you want to use both the SB lenses without the tilt/shift adapter there is a space tube available.
I bought both my SB lenses and spacers from KEH and I get great results.
Cheers
Simon
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We've got a 75mm SB in rental (http://www.captureintegration.com/rental/rental/) along with the TS adapter. In case you wanted to try it before you buy.
Doug Peterson, Head of Technical Services
Capture Integration, Phase One & Canon Dealer (http://www.captureintegration.com) | Personal Portfolio (http://www.doug-peterson.com)
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Well you're a bit far away for me Doug
I've placed the T&S adaptor on ebay for sale, I bought it because I thought it would be usable with all lenses as mentioned on several websites.
Well you get the idea it works with all but with vignetting or no infinity focus, nowhere I could find the information I now have and that is that it's useless with the lenses I now own.
When it's not sold I will try the 180SB.
When I use the 180SB it's usable from let's say 2 mtrs from the model ?
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Hi Frank,
Both the 180mm and 75mm SB lens work just like normal lenses with the Tilt/Shift adapter or with the spacer tube.
There are some second hand 180mm SB lenses on KEH website.
Personally Frank the result you will get with the T/S adapter is well worth it.
Cheers
Simon
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Well you're a bit far away for me Doug
I've placed the T&S adaptor on ebay for sale, I bought it because I thought it would be usable with all lenses as mentioned on several websites.
Well you get the idea it works with all but with vignetting or no infinity focus, nowhere I could find the information I now have and that is that it's useless with the lenses I now own.
When it's not sold I will try the 180SB.
When I use the 180SB it's usable from let's say 2 mtrs from the model ?
Frank I know two very good Mamiya dealers in Europe that will be able to help you finding SB lenses.
Yair
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@Yair,
Ordering from KEH is not a real problem, except the shipping for one lens.
@Simon,
I trust you I will look into the SB lenses and the convertor for normal use and sell my own 180mm.
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Small update ordered the 180mm sb.
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As usual, not sure what you wanting to achieve, But if you want to just shoot up close for beauty, Have you thought about the 145mm macro "M" which is one of the best lens for the RZII?
But I guess you did not know that either?
T/S is mainly for architecture photography... Other wise you can just fake it in photoshop if you just want your models out of focus in areas like a view camera.
But maybe your getting into architecture photography now?
Save you self all the headache and get the 145 macro.
Snook
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You know everything don't you ?
Ofcourse I know the 145mm but I'm planning on doing something completly different with the TS adaptor.
And no it has nothing to do with architecture, but all with selective focus and the play with the plane of focus.
I hate to fake it when I can make it.
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Small update.
Thanks for pushing me forward in ordering the 180mm sb.
It arrived yesterday and today during the workshop I played arround with it a little bit, absolutly gorgous results.
Very easy to control and the results are absolutly stunning, way better than any software package I tried.
Can't wait to use it in a real session.
So thanks for the help.
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Hi Frank,
So pleased you are happy with the results.
Now all you need to do is get the Mamiya RZ 75mm SB lens. It is a very beautiful piece of glass.
Cheers
Simon
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The 75 is not high on my list, for the shoots I do the 110mm is as wide as I need.
I did buy the 65 a while ago but that was more for emergencies
The 180mm is rusted to the camera
I will play a bit with the T&S the coming weeks.
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Hi Frank,
In my film days I used to shoot with the Canon 45 TS in order to elongate some models legs by shifting the lens. Just watch the shoes/feet cause they can get very big. The same can be done with a portrait TS lens to modify a face with a big chin or short forehead. Of course, that can be done in PS now. As usual, in camera effects are different than those performed in PS.
Enjoy the TS-Z!
Eduardo
The 75 is not high on my list, for the shoots I do the 110mm is as wide as I need.
I did buy the 65 a while ago but that was more for emergencies
The 180mm is rusted to the camera
I will play a bit with the T&S the coming weeks.
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Small update.
Thanks for pushing me forward in ordering the 180mm sb.
It arrived yesterday and today during the workshop I played arround with it a little bit, absolutly gorgous results.
Very easy to control and the results are absolutly stunning, way better than any software package I tried.
Can't wait to use it in a real session.
So thanks for the help.
This is great... I'm about to jump to MF for a fine art portraiture project and one of the things I'm struggling with is a good T/S solution (not for technical work, but for finae art studio applications). I'm specifically looking at an RZ/p25 pairing with an added afd for lighter work. So... you like the RZ?
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Hi,
I shoot with the RZ67ProII in the studio and the 645AFD/III on location.
I like both systems, but image/quality wise the RZ is amazing, the quality is real 3D like and pinsharp.
Working with the RZ can be troublesome, it's a heavy camera and focussing is not easy with the standard glass (I use a highpower focussing glass) but when everything works it's a camera that will reward the photographer with wonderful quality.
By the way I mainly bought the TS for focus effects which in my opinion are not as real/good in photoshop as with the TS.
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Can you please post some images?
Thanks
Hi Frank,
So pleased you are happy with the results.
Now all you need to do is get the Mamiya RZ 75mm SB lens. It is a very beautiful piece of glass.
Cheers
Simon
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Anybody else using the RZ have to fiddle with every dang switch when first shooting to get it too work?
EVERY time I go to shoot with my RZIID I have twist the back all around check all the connections etc.. And Fresh batteries for both WinderII and the stupid little battery (underneath) that seems to always be dead. Then the camera some how decides to work after all that.
I now store it with out the adaptor plate for mamiya 645 as it supposedly drains the battery in storage.
Anybody else have this problem with the RZIID and PhaseOne backs??
Many times the computer shows the camera as connected but the RZ will not fire until a fiddle aorund with everything.
Yes I have cleaned the contacts etc.. But it never starts up smoothly. I have to twist and turn all the possible dials and connections in order for it to start working. Once started it usually works well during the day. But frustrating when starting off with trouble everytime.
I bought like 200 of those liitle size batteries as they are hard to find where I live and they drain fast.
Plus will the back work with out the WinderII connected. In other words can you manual crank if necessary?
Did not want to hijack the Post but thought it was better than starting a new one since RZ guys are probably going to look at this thread.
Thanks
Snook
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Anybody else using the RZ have to fiddle with every dang switch when first shooting to get it too work?
EVERY time I go to shoot with my RZIID I have twist the back all around check all the connections etc.. And Fresh batteries for both WinderII and the stupid little battery (underneath) that seems to always be dead. Then the camera some how decides to work after all that.
I now store it with out the adaptor plate for mamiya 645 as it supposedly drains the battery in storage.
Anybody else have this problem with the RZIID and PhaseOne backs??
Many times the computer shows the camera as connected but the RZ will not fire until a fiddle aorund with everything.
Yes I have cleaned the contacts etc.. But it never starts up smoothly. I have to twist and turn all the possible dials and connections in order for it to start working. Once started it usually works well during the day. But frustrating when starting off with trouble everytime.
I bought like 200 of those liitle size batteries as they are hard to find where I live and they drain fast.
Plus will the back work with out the WinderII connected. In other words can you manual crank if necessary?
Did not want to hijack the Post but thought it was better than starting a new one since RZ guys are probably going to look at this thread.
Thanks
Snook
After you replace/check the battery and assuming your contact points are cleaned I'd estimate about 8 out of 10 connection issues are resolved by removing the back, seating the bottom of the back into the hook and then firmly mounting the back into it's final position solves the problem. You do not have to "slam" it on or anything, but you want to be firm and confident with it's placement into it's final locked position.
Note that the RZ Pro IID has a "failsafe" switch on the shutter. Red = Locked, White = Standard, Orange = Failsafe. In the failsafe position the body will fire regardless of whether it has an electronic connection to the back; this will not however trigger the digital back since the electronics have been disabled. So for troubleshooting you can switch to failsafe and take a picture. If the body fires in failsafe, but not in standard, then the problem is electronic and not mechanical. Make sure you have a capture folder set up or a CF card inserted and then remount the back.
The RZ Pro IID is a reliable tank, so once the connection is established it is rock solid and I've never once seen the connection drop during a shoot; I've only ever seen what you describe where at the beginning of a shoot it may not connect if you don't mount it with a strong arm.
Doug Peterson (e-mail Me) (http://mailto:[email protected])
__________________
Head of Technical Services, Capture Integration
Phase One, Canon, Apple, Profoto, Eizo & More
National: 877.217.9870 | Cell: 740.707.2183
Newsletter: Read Latest or Sign Up (http://www.captureintegration.com/our-company/newsletters/)
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Can you please post some images?
Thanks
Hello,
Mamiya RZ 75mm SB Lens with Mamiya tilt/shift adapter
Cheers
Simon
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As promised some experiments with the T&S.
Have to get used to it a bit more, but what I'm getting now is already close to what I'm looking for.
(http://www.doorhof.nl/models/albums/userpics/10001/Nadine_en_Marc_19_Maart_2009_79.jpg)
(http://www.doorhof.nl/models/albums/userpics/10001/Nadine_en_Marc_19_Maart_2009_123.jpg)
(http://www.doorhof.nl/models/albums/userpics/10001/Nadine_en_Marc_19_Maart_2009_22.jpg)
(http://www.doorhof.nl/models/albums/userpics/10001/Nadine_en_Marc_19_Maart_2009_172.jpg)
Greetings,
Frank
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Anybody else using the RZ have to fiddle with every dang switch when first shooting to get it too work?
EVERY time I go to shoot with my RZIID I have twist the back all around check all the connections etc.. And Fresh batteries for both WinderII and the stupid little battery (underneath) that seems to always be dead. Then the camera some how decides to work after all that.
I now store it with out the adaptor plate for mamiya 645 as it supposedly drains the battery in storage.
Anybody else have this problem with the RZIID and PhaseOne backs??
Many times the computer shows the camera as connected but the RZ will not fire until a fiddle aorund with everything.
Yes I have cleaned the contacts etc.. But it never starts up smoothly. I have to twist and turn all the possible dials and connections in order for it to start working. Once started it usually works well during the day. But frustrating when starting off with trouble everytime.
I bought like 200 of those liitle size batteries as they are hard to find where I live and they drain fast.
Plus will the back work with out the WinderII connected. In other words can you manual crank if necessary?
Did not want to hijack the Post but thought it was better than starting a new one since RZ guys are probably going to look at this thread.
Thanks
Snook
Snook you should know that the adapter (http://www.mamiya.com/mamiya-zd-back-accessories-adapter-for-rz67-pro-iid.html) tends to drain the RZd's battery even without the back on it and when you don't use the camera.
I suggest that you remove the adapter from the camera body when not in use. Some people turn it 45º so there is no contact when the camera is not in use.
Yair
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@John,
I ABSOLUTLY loved twilight