Luminous Landscape Forum
Equipment & Techniques => Digital Cameras & Shooting Techniques => Topic started by: KevinA on February 04, 2009, 01:47:02 pm
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I just had a conversation with a colleague who is in the same line of photography as me, we shoot aerials. The talk came round to equipment it turned out we both have the 1DsmkIII, I asked him does he have a problem with out of focus pictures. I think I hit upon a soar point, he's been back and forth to Canon with the problem. I thought it was just me not picking the right setting, I think the problem is getting worse. In fact I'm getting quite paranoid about it. When I shoot on the ground it does not cause a problem, in the air it goes wrong. Sometimes they are so far out I can't believe I would not of seen it in the view finder. I've been at this game for over 30 years I know the difference between out of focus and camera shake. Now I know it's not just me it goes back to the shop tomorrow to see what they say.
I read about the focus issues earlier with the 1dmkIII I came to the conclusion that the circumstances it was supposed to happen were not an issue for my work. It isn't lens specific either tele or wide. Anyone else had problems like this and did Canon fix anything?
It looks like back to the smkII and Kodak SLR/n now that is sharp, until something gets fixed.
Kevin.
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Hi Kevin, I get just about 100% in-focus shots with my 1Ds3 at all times. Even wide open. (the 5D2 is another story...)
Are you using different lenses for the aerials than you are on the ground? If so, perhaps they need to be micro-adjusted?
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No problems here with my 1DSMK3 - my hit rate for in focus images is 100% when shooting landscapes -but I dont shoot from the air.
My hit rate for shooting kids is less - maybee 75% as the little blighters rarely sit still and I am almost always shooting wide or close to wide open.
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Hi Kevin
all I'm going to say is that it's not just you with "issues" with canon gear.
I'm positive that there are photographers out there that are happy with their canon gear... however of all the gear I own... the canon's go into the shop the most for front/back focus and calibration issues.
if you have any particular questions please pm me.
good luck.
am
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Hi Kevin,
What lenses are you using, and what shutter speeds ?
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I just had a conversation with a colleague who is in the same line of photography as me, we shoot aerials. The talk came round to equipment it turned out we both have the 1DsmkIII, I asked him does he have a problem with out of focus pictures. I think I hit upon a soar point, he's been back and forth to Canon with the problem. I thought it was just me not picking the right setting, I think the problem is getting worse. In fact I'm getting quite paranoid about it. When I shoot on the ground it does not cause a problem, in the air it goes wrong. Sometimes they are so far out I can't believe I would not of seen it in the view finder. I've been at this game for over 30 years I know the difference between out of focus and camera shake. Now I know it's not just me it goes back to the shop tomorrow to see what they say.
I read about the focus issues earlier with the 1dmkIII I came to the conclusion that the circumstances it was supposed to happen were not an issue for my work. It isn't lens specific either tele or wide. Anyone else had problems like this and did Canon fix anything?
It looks like back to the smkII and Kodak SLR/n now that is sharp, until something gets fixed.
Kevin.
I have been using 1Ds original till now the Mark 3, they all focus quite well, perhaps I would say the latest one with best focus. My only issue was with just one lens, the 35/1.4 - on both 1Ds 2 and 1Ds 3, very strange, but with micro adjustment I have no problem at all now.
Regards, K
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I thought it was just me but I see this problem infrequently. I was like you thinking, "I know I didn't shoot that image that out of focus." Can you post some images?
Maybe I should do the front and back focus tests and see if mine is performing like it should. Are there any tests other than the old 10D test from Atkins, or is that still the test of tests?
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I just had a conversation with a colleague who is in the same line of photography as me, we shoot aerials. The talk came round to equipment it turned out we both have the 1DsmkIII, I asked him does he have a problem with out of focus pictures. I think I hit upon a soar point, he's been back and forth to Canon with the problem. I thought it was just me not picking the right setting, I think the problem is getting worse. In fact I'm getting quite paranoid about it. When I shoot on the ground it does not cause a problem, in the air it goes wrong. Sometimes they are so far out I can't believe I would not of seen it in the view finder. I've been at this game for over 30 years I know the difference between out of focus and camera shake. Now I know it's not just me it goes back to the shop tomorrow to see what they say.
I read about the focus issues earlier with the 1dmkIII I came to the conclusion that the circumstances it was supposed to happen were not an issue for my work. It isn't lens specific either tele or wide. Anyone else had problems like this and did Canon fix anything?
It looks like back to the smkII and Kodak SLR/n now that is sharp, until something gets fixed.
Kevin.
It's infinity I have decided it has trouble with, sitting in my house in low light it's bang on every time. If I point it at trees some distance away it is a bit hit or miss.
Someone asked about shutter speed, usually a 1/1000th or less. When I shot film it was often 1/250th and 1/1000th being the quickest, no problem with vibration/shake then if that's what you are thinking.
Lenses most used 17-40mm, 50mm 1.4, 70 - 200mm f2.8. it happens with them all.
Those that don't have a problem, try it on infinity, I can see most people could go their whole lives and never focus on infinity unfortunately most of what I shoot is.
Kevin.
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Hi Kevin, I get just about 100% in-focus shots with my 1Ds3 at all times. Even wide open. (the 5D2 is another story...)
Are you using different lenses for the aerials than you are on the ground? If so, perhaps they need to be micro-adjusted?
Hi,
Same lenses, I have not micro adjusted as they are spot on at normal distances I thought I might end up with lenses that don't work at any distance, besides they are sharp often, the percentage of un-sharp is just to high for me to trust it.
Kevin.
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That makes sense. Whenever I use "infinity" I don't allow the camera to do it, since it really has no focal point. It's just saying, "Far, infinity." What I do is focus on something as close as I can that would need to be set to infinity, and do it manually. One thing is that the infinity mark is not spot on either, so manually adjusting it to the mark without looking through the viewfinder is a recipe for blurry images. My infinity mark usually needs to be backed off about 3/16" to make it crisp.
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That makes sense. Whenever I use "infinity" I don't allow the camera to do it, since it really has no focal point. It's just saying, "Far, infinity." What I do is focus on something as close as I can that would need to be set to infinity, and do it manually. One thing is that the infinity mark is not spot on either, so manually adjusting it to the mark without looking through the viewfinder is a recipe for blurry images. My infinity mark usually needs to be backed off about 3/16" to make it crisp.
These lenses are hopeless for focusing manually in the air, especially the 70-200mm. On my old Pentax 67 I would just focus it once then tape it, never had a problem. I am pointing at buildings not fuzzy trees when flying, my old Kodak SLR/n can manage it without a problem, the Canon has gone away now, so I will see what they say.
I really hope I don't need to change camera systems to get this resolved to my satisfaction, I just know I would go the MF route.
Kevin.
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It's infinity I have decided it has trouble with, sitting in my house in low light it's bang on every time. If I point it at trees some distance away it is a bit hit or miss.
Someone asked about shutter speed, usually a 1/1000th or less. When I shot film it was often 1/250th and 1/1000th being the quickest, no problem with vibration/shake then if that's what you are thinking.
Lenses most used 17-40mm, 50mm 1.4, 70 - 200mm f2.8. it happens with them all.
Those that don't have a problem, try it on infinity, I can see most people could go their whole lives and never focus on infinity unfortunately most of what I shoot is.
Kevin.
Haven't had a problem with it, and I do shoot fairly often with my 1Ds3 at or near infinity, but if you're doing aerial at those speeds, I do less that are infinity-and-wide-open, which would mask a lot of the focus errors you're seeing. I don't believe the problem you describe at all.
And if you're seeing the focus errors when you're shooting from the ground, then yeah, it's not the airplane (airplane?). I was suspicious of this at first, the Ds3's resolution is going to require a faster shutter speed for a sharp result than color film or your previous digital cameras would, but ... the trees-from-the-ground really nails this as a problem in your cameras AF.
In any case, if you have fairly consistent problems focusing on a fixed infinity target from the ground, you're using single-shot focus and you're getting feedback that AF thinks it's locked, that sure sounds like something to nail down and take up with Canon service.
Also, agree with Dwdallam that the physical focus mark isn't going to necessarily be right on your lens. In particular, at least with some lenses there's a detectable change in the offset over large swings in temperature, this is something I've observed playing with astrophotography.
--Joe
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Haven't had a problem with it, and I do shoot fairly often with my 1Ds3 at or near infinity, but if you're doing aerial at those speeds, I do less that are infinity-and-wide-open, which would mask a lot of the focus errors you're seeing. I don't believe the problem you describe at all.
And if you're seeing the focus errors when you're shooting from the ground, then yeah, it's not the airplane (airplane?). I was suspicious of this at first, the Ds3's resolution is going to require a faster shutter speed for a sharp result than color film or your previous digital cameras would, but ... the trees-from-the-ground really nails this as a problem in your cameras AF.
In any case, if you have fairly consistent problems focusing on a fixed infinity target from the ground, you're using single-shot focus and you're getting feedback that AF thinks it's locked, that sure sounds like something to nail down and take up with Canon service.
Also, agree with Dwdallam that the physical focus mark isn't going to necessarily be right on your lens. In particular, at least with some lenses there's a detectable change in the offset over large swings in temperature, this is something I've observed playing with astrophotography.
--Joe
Hi Joe,
"Those speeds" I've been shooting at for a number of years, in the days befoer technology made it "easier", then 100iso non stabilised lenses (I used a gyro) big flapping Pentax mirror, 10 shots per job. Now faster lenses (on paper), 400iso stabilised lens, much faster shutter speeds, better damped smaller mirror. And less success rate per number taken.
Kevin.
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Hi Joe,
"Those speeds" I've been shooting at for a number of years, in the days befoer technology made it "easier", then 100iso non stabilised lenses (I used a gyro) big flapping Pentax mirror, 10 shots per job. Now faster lenses (on paper), 400iso stabilised lens, much faster shutter speeds, better damped smaller mirror. And less success rate per number taken.
Kevin.
Not arguing, Kevin, I'm sure you know your stuff, sorry if I wasn't clear.
I was attempting to point out what you already know for the ("viewers at home", heh) that you're going to be able to detect a smaller camera motion on the 1Ds3 sensor than you would on film. Probably another stop. With the experience you've got, and shutter speeds under a thousandth, that's totally *not* what's going on in your case, of course.
Cheers,
--j
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Not arguing, Kevin, I'm sure you know your stuff, sorry if I wasn't clear.
I was attempting to point out what you already know for the ("viewers at home", heh) that you're going to be able to detect a smaller camera motion on the 1Ds3 sensor than you would on film. Probably another stop. With the experience you've got, and shutter speeds under a thousandth, that's totally *not* what's going on in your case, of course.
Cheers,
--j
No Joe you were perfectly clear sorry if my reply read differently to how it sounded when I was typing it.
Kevin.
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No Joe you were perfectly clear sorry if my reply read differently to how it sounded when I was typing it.
Kevin.
Kevin,
On your D3x question, having just read this other thread I can now see that this was a real question. Unfortunately, I can only answer that I don' know. I have no noticed any obviously oof images with the D3/D3x that were not user errors, but I very often focus manually using life view and might not have seen a problem with infinity focus even if there were one.
It is true that all the AF-S/USM lenses are a pain since it is all too easy to change the focus by mistake when touching the lens. They should all have a "no focus" mode.
Cheers,
Bernard
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My D3x has a tendency to pick up high-contrast subjects close to the selected focus point and then back-focus slightly.
CONCERNING THE AERIALS, something in the Canon sensors in the 1DII required shooting at higher speeds to freeze action. This was told me by CPS, action shooters were having issues. Possibly this issue persists on later models.
Kevin,
On your D3x question, having just read this other thread I can now see that this was a real question. Unfortunately, I can only answer that I don' know. I have no noticed any obviously oof images with the D3/D3x that were not user errors, but I very often focus manually using life view and might not have seen a problem with infinity focus even if there were one.
It is true that all the AF-S/USM lenses are a pain since it is all too easy to change the focus by mistake when touching the lens. They should all have a "no focus" mode.
Cheers,
Bernard
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My D3x has a tendency to pick up high-contrast subjects close to the selected focus point and then back-focus slightly.
Damn! I new it wasn't me. I've noticed that when doing people photography and I want the eye to have equal font and back focus, but it's usually one or the other, and it pisses me off.
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CONCERNING THE AERIALS, something in the Canon sensors in the 1DII required shooting at higher speeds to freeze action. This was told me by CPS, action shooters were having issues. Possibly this issue persists on later models.
This is why I asked about lenses and shutter speeds - I would assume you know what you're doing up there, but I did want to add that in my experience with the DsIII's (and with a D3x I tried for a few days recently) you get away with nothing - any little problem is magnified by the resolution.
Anyway, I hope you and Canon get it sorted..
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No Joe you were perfectly clear sorry if my reply read differently to how it sounded when I was typing it.
No worries.
--Joe
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No worries.
--Joe
A couple of crops showing the problem.
each 1/1600th at 90mm on a 70 -200mm f2.8
Kevin
[attachment=11380:Oxford__...25_32518.jpg]
[attachment=11379:Oxford__...25_32511.jpg]
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My D3x has a tendency to pick up high-contrast subjects close to the selected focus point and then back-focus slightly.
CONCERNING THE AERIALS, something in the Canon sensors in the 1DII required shooting at higher speeds to freeze action. This was told me by CPS, action shooters were having issues. Possibly this issue persists on later models.
That's interesting and somewhat strange, what could possible make a sensor record more movement than the amount it is exposed to the image?
Kevin
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That's interesting and somewhat strange, what could possible make a sensor record more movement than the amount it is exposed to the image?
Kevin
Just to show it's other lenses also heres a 28mm at 1/1250th, others are sharp and some less soft, the percentage of wrong'uns is to high.
Kevin.[attachment=11381:Oxford__...25_32477.jpg]
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That's interesting and somewhat strange, what could possible make a sensor record more movement than the amount it is exposed to the image?
Kevin
No one could figure out the reasons, and Canon Inc wsn't talking, but CPS was telling people to move to higher shutter speeds to freeze action. I supsect electronic shutter and in-pixel noise reduction is used in some combination with the mechanical shutter. I'm not sure which part of shuttering is realy mechanical.
Edmund
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I'm thinking of setting up slight front-focus deliberately to combat this. Front focused images usally look better anyway, and the DOF reaches more to the back, I hear.
Focus on the eye, get some eyelashes - still looks ok.
Edmund
Damn! I new it wasn't me. I've noticed that when doing people photography and I want the eye to have equal font and back focus, but it's usually one or the other, and it pisses me off.
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A couple of crops showing the problem.
each 1/1600th at 90mm on a 70 -200mm f2.8
Sure looks out of focus (focus point closer than any object?) to me.
--j
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Best Raw processor ? At the moment I find C1 much better than RD. I can make some C1 profiles if people want them.
Edmund
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Hi,
I recently "calibrated" all of my lenses using the microadjustment feature on the custom function set. (Canon 1Ds mark III)
It worked beautifully. Only ONE lens was spot on. (my 17-40L, tack sharp even at f4). And another (the old 50mm macro was close). All others I had to use +8 to +10 for best results. I used a variety of focal distances, focal lengths (on the zooms) and subjects to make the adjustment. I used a tripod and a remote realease for consistent results. I also took photos around the house to check focus more casually. I used all lenses wide open.
I noticed some lenses are quite inconsistent in their AF specially the 50mm f1,4 and the Sigma 12-24mm. All other lenses, once adjustments were made were consistently spot on.
The adjustments made a HUGE improvement in AF performance even at infinity on distant subjects. It was quite evident with the 85mm f1.2L. Without the adjustment I focused on the landscape outside my apartment balcony and the image was out of focus noticably even though there was good light and good contrast. After the adjustment the same landscape was tack sharp whe i zoomed in the image.
As you decrease focal lengths (and or subject distance) and use smaller (numerically higher) appertures the increase in image sharpness is more subtle but still there.
I performed the main tests for adjustments indoors at 3 distances, about 8m, 3m and 1m or less (using close to minimum focus on each lens). I made sure the camera was level and sensor parallel to target. At close distances the subject was at an angle to more precisely see the degree of fornt or backfocus present. I checked back and forth between zero adjustment and images with the lens adjusted. I used the camera on JPG L with sharpening set to 6.
I used the following procedure:
First AF (center point only, single shot), check focus distance on lens, turn on Live View, focus manually, check distance, notice difference, make microadjustment and use AF, adjust setting until the focus distance is identical to the best MF result using the AF. It takes a few tries but it isnt too bad.
I found out that with most lenses you can calibrate focusing on a high contrast subject at short distances, make an adjustment and the adjustment is valid at all focusing distances. For some reason with the 50mm f1.4 and Sigma 12-24 I adjusted at one distance, moved to another and the adjustement had to be changed a bit for best result. I then returned to the initial distance and a slightly different adjustment was necesary than the first try at that same distance. I setled on a happy medium.
I knew my 70-200mm f2.8L IS was a tad off from experience in the field and I had compensated a bit by sometimes focusing a tad closer and or using f4-f8 instead of f2.8, specially at 200mm. My 24-70mm 2.8 was pretty bad at 70mm requiring +10. Now its quite good at 70mm f2.8. I noticed that if the lens is microadjusted at any focal length it is spot on at all zoom settings. It is easier though and recommended to do the adjustment at the longest focal length. It was anoying and I did have to trash some images and others were not as sharp as they could be. With the 100mm macro i had not notice since i use that lens most of the time at f11 with strobes. Same with the 50mm macro. With the 85mm it was frustrating specially at f1.2 on the mark III, it worked well on the mark II however. Focus was always off and quite noticable. My 17-40L was always sharp and the test confirmed what i knew from my experience using it.
(I tested the Sigma 12-24, Canon 70-200f2.8L IS, 24-70f2.8L, 17-40f4L, 50mm macro, 100mm macro, 85mm f1.2L, 50mm f1.4.)
Take the time and try to do this with your camera and lenses. It is well worth it. You will most likely get sharper, most consistent results. I found out the 1Ds Mark III was quite consistent and once adjusted AF worked very very precisely like it should even in low light.
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I spent an hour in and around downtown L.A. the week before last in a JetRanger shooting with two 1DsMKIII's, a 70-200f/4IS and a 24-70. I double-checked the Micro-Adjust before going up and all I can say is that the images are unbelievably sharp. Most were shot at f/8 with IS on and ranging from 1/250th to 1/3000th or so. The posted shots here just look out of focus to me. Not at all what I'm used to seeing. The MKIII has been the best focusing camera I've ever used, in the air or on the ground.
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Hi,
I recently "calibrated" all of my lenses using the microadjustment feature on the custom function set. (Canon 1Ds mark III)
It worked beautifully. Only ONE lens was spot on. (my 17-40L, tack sharp even at f4). And another (the old 50mm macro was close). All others I had to use +8 to +10 for best results. I used a variety of focal distances, focal lengths (on the zooms) and subjects to make the adjustment. I used a tripod and a remote realease for consistent results. I also took photos around the house to check focus more casually. I used all lenses wide open.
I noticed some lenses are quite inconsistent in their AF specially the 50mm f1,4 and the Sigma 12-24mm. All other lenses, once adjustments were made were consistently spot on.
The adjustments made a HUGE improvement in AF performance even at infinity on distant subjects. It was quite evident with the 85mm f1.2L. Without the adjustment I focused on the landscape outside my apartment balcony and the image was out of focus noticably even though there was good light and good contrast. After the adjustment the same landscape was tack sharp whe i zoomed in the image.
As you decrease focal lengths (and or subject distance) and use smaller (numerically higher) appertures the increase in image sharpness is more subtle but still there.
I performed the main tests for adjustments indoors at 3 distances, about 8m, 3m and 1m or less (using close to minimum focus on each lens). I made sure the camera was level and sensor parallel to target. At close distances the subject was at an angle to more precisely see the degree of fornt or backfocus present. I checked back and forth between zero adjustment and images with the lens adjusted. I used the camera on JPG L with sharpening set to 6.
I used the following procedure:
First AF (center point only, single shot), check focus distance on lens, turn on Live View, focus manually, check distance, notice difference, make microadjustment and use AF, adjust setting until the focus distance is identical to the best MF result using the AF. It takes a few tries but it isnt too bad.
I found out that with most lenses you can calibrate focusing on a high contrast subject at short distances, make an adjustment and the adjustment is valid at all focusing distances. For some reason with the 50mm f1.4 and Sigma 12-24 I adjusted at one distance, moved to another and the adjustement had to be changed a bit for best result. I then returned to the initial distance and a slightly different adjustment was necesary than the first try at that same distance. I setled on a happy medium.
I knew my 70-200mm f2.8L IS was a tad off from experience in the field and I had compensated a bit by sometimes focusing a tad closer and or using f4-f8 instead of f2.8, specially at 200mm. My 24-70mm 2.8 was pretty bad at 70mm requiring +10. Now its quite good at 70mm f2.8. I noticed that if the lens is microadjusted at any focal length it is spot on at all zoom settings. It is easier though and recommended to do the adjustment at the longest focal length. It was anoying and I did have to trash some images and others were not as sharp as they could be. With the 100mm macro i had not notice since i use that lens most of the time at f11 with strobes. Same with the 50mm macro. With the 85mm it was frustrating specially at f1.2 on the mark III, it worked well on the mark II however. Focus was always off and quite noticable. My 17-40L was always sharp and the test confirmed what i knew from my experience using it.
(I tested the Sigma 12-24, Canon 70-200f2.8L IS, 24-70f2.8L, 17-40f4L, 50mm macro, 100mm macro, 85mm f1.2L, 50mm f1.4.)
Take the time and try to do this with your camera and lenses. It is well worth it. You will most likely get sharper, most consistent results. I found out the 1Ds Mark III was quite consistent and once adjusted AF worked very very precisely like it should even in low light.
Thanks for this when it comes back and they say it's within limits I'll try the micro adjust. The reason I did not try it is it's sharp on close range subjects, I thought that micro adjustment might mess up everything. I really want this to be tack sharp. Does microadjustment need revisiting from time to time or is it do it once and forget about it?
The samples I posted were from a flight were hardly anything was sharp, I have had a better success rate since then but still with more than I think acceptable un-sharp images thrown in. It's the hit and miss that worries me, I can't pin it down to any condition like against the light or high or low contrast or camera setting.
I think the microadjust would be worth ago, thinking about it it could only improve things, then again Canon might find a fault. One thing did cross my mind is the anti dust shake routine, does that mean the sensor isn't fixed solid, could it come to rest at slightly different places?
Kevin.
Kevin.
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Best Raw processor ? At the moment I find C1 much better than RD. I can make some C1 profiles if people want them.
Edmund
Sure, I'd be interested.
Cheers,
Bernard
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Hi Kevin,
Surprised you haven't done any micro adjustment -
On my DsIII's and lenses it seems to stay calibrated once it's done, though getting it right has involved a lot of trial and error.
I have a chart printed to A2 with a scale on one saide and a focus point on the other (can email it to you if you want to print your own) and it's fairly clear when a lens is out, and it's normally obvious even on the screen.
The lenses are tested at the sort of distances I work at and interestingly, both bodies have produced different numbers with the same lenses.
The biggest adjustment was +17, but the lens (an 85 1.2) is as sharp as anything now at any distance.
Cheers.
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Hi Kevin,
Surprised you haven't done any micro adjustment -
On my DsIII's and lenses it seems to stay calibrated once it's done, though getting it right has involved a lot of trial and error.
I have a chart printed to A2 with a scale on one saide and a focus point on the other (can email it to you if you want to print your own) and it's fairly clear when a lens is out, and it's normally obvious even on the screen.
The lenses are tested at the sort of distances I work at and interestingly, both bodies have produced different numbers with the same lenses.
The biggest adjustment was +17, but the lens (an 85 1.2) is as sharp as anything now at any distance.
Cheers.
Like I said, I thought it would mess up other distances and it does give sharp results more than not, so I thought not a calibration issue. I'm assuming if it's not calibrated properly it would never give sharp results, right?
Kevin.
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Hi, I dont know if I have to re check the adjustments from time to time. I sure hope not but if my gear gets knocked aorund a bit while travelling I will check focus accuracy casually at the very least. Either way its a good idea to quickly check focus before any job and even during jobs I check that focus is spot on. I knew the lenses were off even before I performed any formal test, i just worked around it to get desired results.
The AF was off even when focusing on subjects at or near infinity. That suprised me since I though that DOF at the increased subject distance would take care of it. But no, in fact, with the 85mm 1.2L I saw a huge improvement in distant subject sharpness when using wide appertures and AF. The thing is when up close some defocusing of the subject is expected and the focus falls on some part of the subject. When shooting subjects far away EVERYTHING is uniformly soft. Makes sense.
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Like I said, I thought it would mess up other distances and it does give sharp results more than not, so I thought not a calibration issue. I'm assuming if it's not calibrated properly it would never give sharp results, right?
To be honest, I don't know because what your doing with your camera and what I shoot with mine are very different.
But it makes it would make sense that if your lens is front focusing it's not going to hit infinity.
In my experience with the AF and micro adjustments the more a lens is out the more the focus jumps around while once calibrated they seem much more consistent.
On portraits with the 85 at wider apertures it would have gone from 30% sharp to about 80% once calibrated.
(some of both those numbers would come down to my focusing errors )
The 85 is something like +15 and has the biggest adjustment of my lenses, with most being around +/- 3-7, though it now produces VERY sharp pictures.
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I never calibrated my lenses but i have really amazing results with my 1Ds MarkIII, so i don't know what problems others having with any Canon gear, i don't have any problem with any of my Canon gear until i started to read websites on the net then i found many got issues with their photography equipments in image quality or something else, so then i started to worry if i have issue or just i make myself a blind.
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I never calibrated my lenses but i have really amazing results with my 1Ds MarkIII, so i don't know what problems others having with any Canon gear, i don't have any problem with any of my Canon gear until i started to read websites on the net then i found many got issues with their photography equipments in image quality or something else, so then i started to worry if i have issue or just i make myself a blind.
Camera came back today accompanied with a A4 sheet of paper with the "adjustment" box ticked. Not sure what has been adjusted. Today is an awful day here, infinity is to far away to see clearly. I did take some handheld shots across the field from my bedroom window. I'm thinking right now a big improvement. I'll need to do more but it looks good so far.
I'm also thinking micro adjustment is not needed either with my 70-200.
Kevin.
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Camera came back today accompanied with a A4 sheet of paper with the "adjustment" box ticked. Not sure what has been adjusted. Today is an awful day here, infinity is to far away to see clearly. I did take some handheld shots across the field from my bedroom window. I'm thinking right now a big improvement. I'll need to do more but it looks good so far.
I'm also thinking micro adjustment is not needed either with my 70-200.
Kevin.
Hay if anyone spots any socks flying past they are most likely mine, 'cos mine just got blown off. So this is what 21mp's looks like when they are sharp, I played around with micro adjust today, waste of time it's spot on without the tinkering. Kind of confirms what I have thought about microadjustment, a cop out for slack building. Now mine is adjusted properly the micro adjustment is of no use.
A couple of praises for Canon, thanks for the under two week turn around and thanks for fixing the problem. This is one h ell of a camera now.
Kevin.
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I tested my 1DS3 soon after I got it using the LCD screen pattern test where you shoot the screen of a LCD monitor with the image on it. It's somewhere here in our threads. All of my lenses were perfect. No adjustment needed. I have since sent in my camera for the decreased "Cannot communicate with the lens" defect. Maybe I should recalibrate and see if everything is tight still. Can anyone dig up that LCD calibration test link? That's the one you all need to be using anyway. I can't remember why, but it was the one to use when I used it.
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I tested my 1DS3 soon after I got it using the LCD screen pattern test where you shoot the screen of a LCD monitor with the image on it. It's somewhere here in our threads. All of my lenses were perfect. No adjustment needed. I have since sent in my camera for the decreased "Cannot communicate with the lens" defect. Maybe I should recalibrate and see if everything is tight still. Can anyone dig up that LCD calibration test link? That's the one you all need to be using anyway. I can't remember why, but it was the one to use when I used it.
Focus adjustment test description and link is on my blog.
http://pronikond.blogspot.com/2009/02/fine...-for-focus.html (http://pronikond.blogspot.com/2009/02/fine-adjustment-for-focus.html)
Edmund
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Focus adjustment test description and link is on my blog.
http://pronikond.blogspot.com/2009/02/fine...-for-focus.html (http://pronikond.blogspot.com/2009/02/fine-adjustment-for-focus.html)
Edmund
Thanks Edmund. It says for Nikon bodies though. Why is that?
And no offense meant to Edmund, but if you would like to skip his blog and go directly to the source and explanation, try this link:
http://www.northlight-images.co.uk/article...adjustment.html (http://www.northlight-images.co.uk/article_pages/cameras/1ds3_af_micoadjustment.html)
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Thanks Edmund. It says for Nikon bodies though. Why is that?
And no offense meant to Edmund, but if you would like to skip his blog and go directly to the source and explanation, try this link:
http://www.northlight-images.co.uk/article...adjustment.html (http://www.northlight-images.co.uk/article_pages/cameras/1ds3_af_micoadjustment.html)
No offense indeed, but it would be useful to link this as well, as I did:
http://www.komar.org/faq/camera/auto-focus-test/ (http://www.komar.org/faq/camera/auto-focus-test/)
And furthermore, that paragraph in red at the end of my blog entry might be useful too. I do tend to update my blog entries over a few days, as references and corrections creep in.
If someone wants to design a nicer pattern, that would be useful, in my opinion it should be have a spatial frequency ramp so as to be sure to create Moiré if the user is far enough away. I may be wrong about that- anyone here who really understands what is going on wanna comment ?
Edmund
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I tested my 1DS3 soon after I got it using the LCD screen pattern test where you shoot the screen of a LCD monitor with the image on it. It's somewhere here in our threads. All of my lenses were perfect. No adjustment needed. I have since sent in my camera for the decreased "Cannot communicate with the lens" defect. Maybe I should recalibrate and see if everything is tight still. Can anyone dig up that LCD calibration test link? That's the one you all need to be using anyway. I can't remember why, but it was the one to use when I used it.
I was just talking with another colleague (thats 3 out of 3 smkIII's I personally know with focusing issues) who was having focusing issues with his smkIII, he ended up driving to Canon with his gear to get it all calibrated, chatting with the guys there, yes microadjust is the get out of jail free card for AF. Also if you set it up for one distance chances are it will be out at other distances. I'm sure when/if the Leica S2 arrives it will be bang on without this £arting around or at least have a decent manual focus option.
Kevin.
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I was just talking with another colleague (thats 3 out of 3 smkIII's I personally know with focusing issues) who was having focusing issues with his smkIII, he ended up driving to Canon with his gear to get it all calibrated, chatting with the guys there, yes microadjust is the get out of jail free card for AF. Also if you set it up for one distance chances are it will be out at other distances. I'm sure when/if the Leica S2 arrives it will be bang on without this £arting around or at least have a decent manual focus option.
Kevin.
That's depressing. Canon recommends that you set the lens to is maximum for telephotos. Well as soon as I get some time I'm going to check mine at wide, medium, and full. I mean "if" I get the time.
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