Luminous Landscape Forum
Equipment & Techniques => Medium Format / Film / Digital Backs – and Large Sensor Photography => Topic started by: Lust4Life on September 29, 2007, 07:43:57 am
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I've just purchased the Cambo WDS system and for critical work I'm thinking of purchasing a Laser Tape Measure. Use is of course to set my focus on the lens.
In searching for such a device I'm finding numerous devices that can become very expensive and most of which are bulky.
Anyone already come up with a device that was reasonable in cost, hopefully less than $300, small and compact, easy to use that worked in ideally both feet and meters? (I've got to teach myself to start thinking/seeing in meters!)
Thanks,
Jack
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Anyone already come up with a device that was reasonable in cost, hopefully less than $300, small and compact, easy to use that worked in ideally both feet and meters? (I've got to teach myself to start thinking/seeing in meters!)
Thanks,
Jack
[a href=\"index.php?act=findpost&pid=142609\"][{POST_SNAPBACK}][/a]
Not really an answer but,
The cheaper ones don't necessarily work particularly well! I have one atm that is consistently between 5 and 20 cm out measuring about 10m distances.. I wonder how that scales up!
I'm now thinking of a more expensive one, so I'll be reading this thread!
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Depending on the furthest you intend to measure, Leica has a few models to choose from. Search for them on Ebay.
I use it for shooting with my Hasselblad 903SWC
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you know, I never thought about it! this would be a very helpfull tool for me...
keep us posted!
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I've just purchased the Cambo WDS system and for critical work I'm thinking of purchasing a Laser Tape Measure. Use is of course to set my focus on the lens.
In searching for such a device I'm finding numerous devices that can become very expensive and most of which are bulky.
Anyone already come up with a device that was reasonable in cost, hopefully less than $300, small and compact, easy to use that worked in ideally both feet and meters? (I've got to teach myself to start thinking/seeing in meters!)
Thanks,
Jack
[a href=\"index.php?act=findpost&pid=142609\"][{POST_SNAPBACK}][/a]
Interesting post. I had always assumed that with the Wide DS and lenses, that you pretty much leave it on infinity since most things are beyond 20ft. Alternatively, I've also put the infinity mark on whatever aperture I'm shooting at - f/ll for instance- to try to get the best depth of focus that I can.
For "critical work", what distances are you working with? I'm curious to know what peoples' approach is to the whole infinity thing and if they leave the lens cranked all the way, or put the infinity mark on the aperture setting, or physically measure the scene, or what?
Dave
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I leave the infinity-mark aligned with the f/16 mark most of the time. Only when the main subject if further away (eg a skyline over a empty field) I put the lens at infinity.
Works for me....
Oh, and I use a hasselblad 903SWC most of the time.
Interesting post. I had always assumed that with the Wide DS and lenses, that you pretty much leave it on infinity since most things are beyond 20ft. Alternatively, I've also put the infinity mark on whatever aperture I'm shooting at - f/ll for instance- to try to get the best depth of focus that I can.
For "critical work", what distances are you working with? I'm curious to know what peoples' approach is to the whole infinity thing and if they leave the lens cranked all the way, or put the infinity mark on the aperture setting, or physically measure the scene, or what?
Dave
[a href=\"index.php?act=findpost&pid=142641\"][{POST_SNAPBACK}][/a]
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I had a similar question for my horseman a few weeks ago and posted elsewhere and got expensive options in reply - $300 or so. After a bit of surfing I came across the Stanley FatMax, it's $100 US and works great upto about 100 ft, works in metres, ft at the touch of a button and even measures cubic and square for calculating room volume sizes - if you need... It's a great new tool.
-Nik
I've just purchased the Cambo WDS system and for critical work I'm thinking of purchasing a Laser Tape Measure. Use is of course to set my focus on the lens.
In searching for such a device I'm finding numerous devices that can become very expensive and most of which are bulky.
Anyone already come up with a device that was reasonable in cost, hopefully less than $300, small and compact, easy to use that worked in ideally both feet and meters? (I've got to teach myself to start thinking/seeing in meters!)
Thanks,
Jack
[a href=\"index.php?act=findpost&pid=142609\"][{POST_SNAPBACK}][/a]
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After a bit of surfing I came across the Stanley FatMax, it's $100 US and works great upto about 100 ft, works in metres, ft at the touch of a button
I agree, great tool. I use the same one.
Works great inside for almost all distances. Good outside up to about 20 meters, which is enough.
I prefer critical focus at exactly the point I want, as I use selective focus and wide aperatures often.
This thing is dead on with my helical scales, as seen on the ground glass. You can set things like "2.47 meters" pretty well without using the GG. My only small quibble is that it measures from the base, or back, not the front of the unit. You can change it to the front, but it always defaults back to the base, so it is easiest just to do it their way.
Best,
Michael
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I use my Leica bowhunting rangefinder. Any hunting catalog will have selection with a large variety of features and prices. Here is Cabellas:
http://www.cabelas.com/cabelas/en/common/s...inder&noImage=0 (http://www.cabelas.com/cabelas/en/common/search/search-results1.jsp?QueryText=rangefinder&N=4887&Ntk=Products&Ntx=mode+matchall&Nty=1&Ntt=rangefinder&noImage=0)
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Hi Jack
Since I've purchased my ALPA SWA last spring, I've been using the
BOSCH DLE 50 Laser Distance Measure
with great success for focussing the lenses accordingly.
It's light, small, very accurate, user friendly and cost me about $150.
Measures can be switched between US- and european standards.
Hope this helps
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The current line-up of Leica Disto™ laser distance meters are great. I have found the Disto™ A3 to be quite nice, as it the smallest in the line, and plenty accurate for critical focus / depth of field calculation. It has a measuring range of 0.05 m/0.16 ft up to 100 m/325 ft, and typical accuracy of ± 1.5 mm/ ± 0.06 in.
I had originally bought a Fotoman rangefinder for use with Alpa 12TC, but found the constant (re)calibration was bothersome. Since picking up a Leica Disto™ A3 a almost a year ago, I find the Fotoman rangefinder stays in the camera bag. Once you get in the groove with a laser distance meter, it is quite easy and quick to get accurate focus.
You can check out Leica.com (http://www.leica-geosystems.com/corporate/en/ndef/lgs_29794.htm) for more information.
I also found this interesting comparison to Stanley laser distance meters. Link to comparision PDF download. (http://www.lascolaser.com/pdfs/DISTO%20vs%20Stanley%20Comparrison.pdf).
Regards,
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The current line-up of Leica Disto™ laser distance meters are great. I have found the Disto™ A3 to be quite nice, as it the smallest in the line, and plenty accurate for critical focus / depth of field calculation. It has a measuring range of 0.05 m/0.16 ft up to 100 m/325 ft, and typical accuracy of ± 1.5 mm/ ± 0.06 in.
I had originally bought a Fotoman rangefinder for use with Alpa 12TC, but found the constant (re)calibration was bothersome. Since picking up a Leica Disto™ A3 a almost a year ago, I find the Fotoman rangefinder stays in the camera bag. Once you get in the groove with a laser distance meter, it is quite easy and quick to get accurate focus.
You can check out Leica.com (http://www.leica-geosystems.com/corporate/en/ndef/lgs_29794.htm) for more information.
I also found this interesting comparison to Stanley laser distance meters. Link to comparision PDF download. (http://www.lascolaser.com/pdfs/DISTO%20vs%20Stanley%20Comparrison.pdf).
Regards,
[a href=\"index.php?act=findpost&pid=143019\"][{POST_SNAPBACK}][/a]
Would you mind sharing how much you paid for the Disto A3? Thanks.
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I paid $269 from a local geo / surveying supplier in my area. If you locate a dealer through the Leica Geo-Systems website, you can find a number of suppliers in your area.
Regards,
Jordan
Would you mind sharing how much you paid for the Disto A3? Thanks.
[a href=\"index.php?act=findpost&pid=143026\"][{POST_SNAPBACK}][/a]
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I've used this one, Bosch DLE50:
http://www.bosch-pt.com/productspecials/bl...tails/index.htm (http://www.bosch-pt.com/productspecials/blue/dle50/gb/en/tech-details/index.htm)
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One thing that bothers me about the Leica and Bosch and Fatman models is that they don't have a viewfinder for accurately placing the beam on a specific point. For those of you with these models, has this been an issue at all? Is the beam bright enough to see the spot on the target?
A number of the so called "hunting" rangefinders provide a viewfinder with a crosshair, which seem ideal. However, I have read that many (and maybe most) of the hunting type rangefinders aren't accurate under 20 meters. Can anyone recommend one of the hunting-type rangefinders that they have successfully used at shorter ranges?
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One thing that bothers me about the Leica and Bosch and Fatman models is that they don't have a viewfinder for accurately placing the beam on a specific point. For those of you with these models, has this been an issue at all? Is the beam bright enough to see the spot on the target?
A number of the so called "hunting" rangefinders provide a viewfinder with a crosshair, which seem ideal. However, I have read that many (and maybe most) of the hunting type rangefinders aren't accurate under 20 meters. Can anyone recommend one of the hunting-type rangefinders that they have successfully used at shorter ranges?
[a href=\"index.php?act=findpost&pid=143146\"][{POST_SNAPBACK}][/a]
The laser projects a bright red dot. It's visibility outdoors depends on the surface and reflectivity: my BOSCH DLE 50 (which doesent't have a viewfinder) on a sunny day on a bright surface is only detectable up to about 8m (25feet). Now that range is already of good use and obviously extends much in the shadow and the lower the light level is.
Jost von Allmen
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One thing that bothers me about the Leica and Bosch and Fatman models is that they don't have a viewfinder for accurately placing the beam on a specific point. For those of you with these models, has this been an issue at all? Is the beam bright enough to see the spot on the target?
A number of the so called "hunting" rangefinders provide a viewfinder with a crosshair, which seem ideal. However, I have read that many (and maybe most) of the hunting type rangefinders aren't accurate under 20 meters. Can anyone recommend one of the hunting-type rangefinders that they have successfully used at shorter ranges?
[a href=\"index.php?act=findpost&pid=143146\"][{POST_SNAPBACK}][/a]
I have found the Leica Disto™ A3 to be adequately visible up to 35-40 ft. It seems that my visual acuity at those (and greater) distances is the issue, not so much whether or not the laser dot is "there". I have worked with some assistants and 1st AC's who have better eyes than I do, and they have not problem seeing the A3's dot out to 50 ft or so.
I borrowed a friend's Leica RangeMaster CRF 1200 (he's a wildlife photographer, and avid golfer), and found it to be quite useful. After looking into the accuracy specifications of the these monocular laser range finders, they only seem to hold approx 1m / 1yd accuracy up to 400 yds. In using the CRF 1200 with my Alpa 12TC, I found it usable (and accurate) for architectural and landscape / cityscape applications. I did not try it much closer than 25-30 ft. It is worth dropping by your nearest hunting / sport optics dealer and give it a shot. If I get a chance, I will give the CRF 1200 a test, from 50 ft and closer, next a tape measure, and see what I come up with.
Even without a viewfinder on the A3, as long as I keep my bubble levels consistent, I have not found there to be any issues getting accurate measurements. It takes a little getting used to, but with some practice, it becomes quite natural.
Regards,
Jordan
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WOW, I had no idea this topic would generate so much interest and excellent comments. Thanks to all.
As reading these comments, I've wondered if there is any danger to persons in your field of view than may stare back at the laser beam?
Say you're in the square in Venice, want to get an accurate distance for focus on a structure, person is standing in front of structure and as you're taking a reading the "dot" passes over their eyes. Any risk to the person in front of the structure?
Jack
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WOW, I had no idea this topic would generate so much interest and excellent comments.
Jack
[a href=\"index.php?act=findpost&pid=143363\"][{POST_SNAPBACK}][/a]
I'm even beginning to feel like I need one of these gizmo's!
J
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WOW, I had no idea this topic would generate so much interest and excellent comments. Thanks to all.
As reading these comments, I've wondered if there is any danger to persons in your field of view than may stare back at the laser beam?
As long as the laser is in the 5-milliwatts-or-less category, no. Some tests have been done with individuals sheduled for eye removal due to cancer, where they stared directly into the laser beam at close range continuously for several minutes with only minor effects on their retina. Given the normal blink/aversion reflex and the momentary nature of the laser exposure you're talking about, the risk of injury is nil. If you're shooting in the dark, the person's night vision may be lost for a few minutes (which is why pointing lasers at planes is strongly discouraged) but actual injury is not something you really need to worry about.
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I have often thought about using a laser pointer for help with focusing in Dark Locations...
Is this an absurd idea?
Has anybody ever tried it and which would be the best to get?
Thanks for any information,
Snook
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It's not absurd, it is quite effective. Simply point the laser at the desired center of focus, and either focus manually or via AF. Any laser pointer will work, even the cheap $10 red ones. Just remember to turn off the laser before pressing the shutter release.
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I'm even beginning to feel like I need one of these gizmo's!
J
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Cool Jon! Have you figured out what you are going to do with it yet?
I do enjoy working with them when the GG is too awkward. Very fast for "street" type work with the Cambo.
Best,
Michael
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I leave the infinity-mark aligned with the f/16 mark most of the time. Only when the main subject if further away (eg a skyline over a empty field) I put the lens at infinity.
Works for me....
Oh, and I use a hasselblad 903SWC most of the time.
[a href=\"index.php?act=findpost&pid=142665\"][{POST_SNAPBACK}][/a]
Your putting the infinity mark at f16 most of the time - what lens aperature are you shooting at when you have the infinity mark at f16?
Jack
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I just returned from a photo trip to Antelope Canyon and came across this thread. I was using a medium format camera and found focusing to be difficult because of the low light levels. I ended up estimating distances to near, dark canyon walls, but based on what I've read here it sounds like a laser tape measure would work.
Anyone have any experience or comments on using one of these devices in a place like Antelope Canyon (i.e. sandstone walls)?
Thanks,
Ken
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I just returned from a photo trip to Antelope Canyon and came across this thread. I was using a medium format camera and found focusing to be difficult because of the low light levels. I ended up estimating distances to near, dark canyon walls, but based on what I've read here it sounds like a laser tape measure would work.
Anyone have any experience or comments on using one of these devices in a place like Antelope Canyon (i.e. sandstone walls)?
Thanks,
Ken
[a href=\"index.php?act=findpost&pid=150719\"][{POST_SNAPBACK}][/a]
Ken, I was up there earlier this year and had the same problems getting a good focus until I remembered that I had a laser pointer in my pocket. It worked great! While the pointer is great I'm now thinking about getting a laser tape measure. Just think, Home Depot for camera gear!
don
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No experience in the canyons. But no other responses lately, so ...
I was working near dusk the other night at an abandonded cement factory. I was using a 65mm 5.6 with a center filter, which made it effectively almost an f/11.
At first I could see the center OK, so I would focus on the GG and then check the distance with the measuring device to confirm my focus distance. Three setups were 3.6, 6, and 12 meters +-. The laser worked quite well at all three distances.
It was easy to see the red dot to know where I was measuring in the low light. It agreed quite well with my focus. The distance (throw) from 3.5 to 4 meters, for example, on the 65mm's helical is pretty large, so I could estimate 3.657 or whatever the exact number was.
By the last setup I could not even tell when I had the whole building in frame against the sky (to get the right shift), it was so dark. So I just used the meter to set focus without using the GG.
It is fun, quick and easy. I just wish it was built into my Sekonic 608 spot meter. Press the button and get the reading and distance. Average the distance like the exposure? Calculate hyperfocal based on CoC? Is it too late to patent that?
Best,
Michael
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Ken, I was up there earlier this year and had the same problems getting a good focus until I remembered that I had a laser pointer in my pocket. It worked great! While the pointer is great I'm now thinking about getting a laser tape measure. Just think, Home Depot for camera gear!
don
[a href=\"index.php?act=findpost&pid=150741\"][{POST_SNAPBACK}][/a]
I got my transparencies back from my Antelope Canyon trip and to my relief they are in focus... but next time I will bring a laser tape measure. I expect it will work based on the posts here and the fact that the Navajo guide who showed me around the canyon used a red laser to point out photo possibilities. The laser dot showed up very clearly on the sandstone surfaces.
From previous poster:
"It is fun, quick and easy. I just wish it was built into my Sekonic 608 spot meter. Press the button and get the reading and distance. Average the distance like the exposure? Calculate hyperfocal based on CoC? Is it too late to patent that?"
Sounds like a great idea to me, I think I'll patent it :-)
Ken