Luminous Landscape Forum
Equipment & Techniques => Medium Format / Film / Digital Backs – and Large Sensor Photography => Topic started by: Lust4Life on August 24, 2007, 07:04:50 am
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I shoot landscape and I've moved from 4x5 film to MF Digital.
Currently using Phase One P-45+ back on either Hassie 503CW or Flexbody. Primary lens used is the Hassie 40 CFE IF Distagon FLE stopped to 16 and 22.
Looking for better solution to allow tilt with some shift being a bonus. Put emphasis on tilt as I'm obsessed with near to far perfect focus and find I'm having a difficult time getting that with the Flexbody and can't always stop down far enough to get resolution and sharpness I want with 503cw.
Don't want to return to 4x5 as I've been there with film and want a much lighter solution.
As my work is landscape and my age is 61, weight of the body is important to keep as light as possible for backpacking.
Question: What camera bodies have worked for others where they are using a Phase back and want tilt for landscape work?
Options I've just started to explore: Arca 6x9 Micrometric Orbix; Arca Misura
As always, your guidance is appreciated.
Thanks,
Jack
My Webpage (http://www.shadowsdancing.com)
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Have a look at the Sylvestri line, particularly the Flexcam. (http://www.silvestricamera.it/eng/prodotti_eng/Flexicam/Flexicam_eng.htm) I know a few people that have them and speak highly of them.
Michael
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I shoot landscape and I've moved from 4x5 film to MF Digital.
Currently using Phase One P-45+ back on either Hassie 503CW or Flexbody. Primary lens used is the Hassie 40 CFE IF Distagon FLE stopped to 16 and 22.
Looking for better solution to allow tilt with some shift being a bonus. Put emphasis on tilt as I'm obsessed with near to far perfect focus and find I'm having a difficult time getting that with the Flexbody and can't always stop down far enough to get resolution and sharpness I want with 503cw.
Don't want to return to 4x5 as I've been there with film and want a much lighter solution.
As my work is landscape and my age is 61, weight of the body is important to keep as light as possible for backpacking.
Question: What camera bodies have worked for others where they are using a Phase back and want tilt for landscape work?
Options I've just started to explore: Arca 6x9 Micrometric Orbix; Arca Misura
As always, your guidance is appreciated.
Thanks,
Jack
My Webpage (http://www.shadowsdancing.com)
[{POST_SNAPBACK}][/a] (http://index.php?act=findpost&pid=135233\")
The Arca 6x9 F metric Compact w Orbix(that was long) is a nice solution, but the rummored now- closer-to-becoming-real Arca Rm3, might be lighter and easier to work camera unit if your cosidering wider lenses. See Link:[a href=\"http://www.photografica.com/news/default.asp?mode=display&category=37&id=546]Arca Rmd3[/url]
Oscar
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Jack, if you're trying to save weight you may want to look at software tools such as Helicon Focus as an alternative strategy, I wrote about it in a Luminous Landscape article entitled "Focusing In The Digital Era" which you can find here,
http://www.luminous-landscape.com/tutorial...0Focusing.shtml (http://www.luminous-landscape.com/tutorials/Digital%20Focusing.shtml)
Incidentally, like you I use a Phase One back on a Hasselblad 503 and a Flexbody, but I also use it on a Linhof M679cs. In a landscape context I find very little additional sharpness from the Linhof over the Flexbody, but it certainly adds a massive weight penalty!
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Dear Gary,
Thank you for your article. It helped me to understand the focusing problems I had before with my digital back. I use Helicon Focus Pro with very good results. I do not see any need for a view camera now for my line of work (copying and shooting of small art objects). Focus bracketing on my Sinar-m (the same as on the HY6) makes it much easier.
Yevgeny
Jack, if you're trying to save weight you may want to look at software tools such as Helicon Focus as an alternative strategy, I wrote about it in a Luminous Landscape article entitled "Focusing In The Digital Era" which you can find here,
http://www.luminous-landscape.com/tutorial...0Focusing.shtml (http://www.luminous-landscape.com/tutorials/Digital%20Focusing.shtml)
Incidentally, like you I use a Phase One back on a Hasselblad 503 and a Flexbody, but I also use it on a Linhof M679cs. In a landscape context I find very little additional sharpness from the Linhof over the Flexbody, but it certainly adds a massive weight penalty!
[a href=\"index.php?act=findpost&pid=135258\"][{POST_SNAPBACK}][/a]
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ONe of my concerns or questions with these light weight alternatives is how steady they are with the weight and size of the digital back. Has this been problematic for any? I had heard some complaints with the Arca setup. I have been using the rollei x act 2 and this is rock steady but i can imagine with a lighter setup how this might be an issue.
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How about the Mamyia 645 and a Hartblei 45mm super rotator? I haven't tried the combination yet but intend to soon. I'll keep you advised. By the way, I just heard from MAC that Mamyia has developed a firmware update for their new 28mm, it was having communication issues with the P45 when used in manual mode (exposure). They tell me that by early next week it will be fixed. Jim
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ONe of my concerns or questions with these light weight alternatives is how steady they are with the weight and size of the digital back. Has this been problematic for any? I had heard some complaints with the Arca setup. I have been using the rollei x act 2 and this is rock steady but i can imagine with a lighter setup how this might be an issue.
[a href=\"index.php?act=findpost&pid=135295\"][{POST_SNAPBACK}][/a]
You're right to consider this. I think we tend to carry a lot of prejudicial baggage from the film days. In the past large format enjoyed a clear quality advantage, but that automatic quality advantage just isn't there when you attach a digital back to a large format camera. In fact I'd argue that unless you're meticulous in your technique and careful in your choice of large format camera, you'll likely see a clear quality reduction when you switch your digital back from a medium format camera to a LF camera.
Most LF cameras were designed around the more relaxed tolerances of 4x5 film, where the negative was unlikely to be enlarged more than x2 to x4. Now that we're scrutinising images at 100% on our monitors and routinely enlarging for extremely large prints you need a correspondingly more precise instrument.
But there's only a handful of LF cameras that actually deliver that precision, in fact I don't know one LF digital photographer who is satisfied with digital if they're using a camera originally designed for 4x5 film. An ultra rigid chassis, outstanding focusing screen/viewfinder arrangements, and fully geared controls manufactured to the highest engineering standards are absolute requirements for successful digital photography with a technical camera.
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If shooting one of higher mp backs (P45, A75, etc), does H'blad lens or conventional view camera lens have adequate resolving power to take advantage of increased capability of these new backs? Or, are the new breed of "optimized for digital" (Schneider Digitars, Rodenstock HR., etc) lenses required? I'm not criticizing H'blad or other lenses, just trying to understand.
Thanks,
John Hurshman
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Have a look at the Sylvestri line, particularly the Flexcam. (http://www.silvestricamera.it/eng/prodotti_eng/Flexicam/Flexicam_eng.htm) I know a few people that have them and speak highly of them.
Michael
[a href=\"index.php?act=findpost&pid=135245\"][{POST_SNAPBACK}][/a]
Michael,
I've now had a chance to look at the Flexicam web site and then spoke with the USA importer. Device is very interesting looking! Odd that I had never heard of it before your comment.
Flexicam weight is 2.5 pounds = excellent; body cost is $2895 retail; has slider back available for additional $1350 retail = seems high. Bayonet Interface adapter for LF lenses with Copa 0 shutters cost $195 retail each.
According to the web site, the Flexicam is specifically designed for digital work, thus the comments made by MarkKay would hopefully be addressed.
Still trying to get more info on the Arca Swiss Rm3d device. From images I found of it, looks like it is substantially less precise and less sophisticated than the Flexicam.
Jack
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Michael,
I've now had a chance to look at the Flexicam web site and then spoke with the USA importer. Device is very interesting looking! Odd that I had never heard of it before your comment.
Flexicam weight is 2.5 pounds = excellent; body cost is $2895 retail; has slider back available for additional $1350 retail = seems high. Bayonet Interface adapter for LF lenses with Copa 0 shutters cost $195 retail each.
According to the web site, the Flexicam is specifically designed for digital work, thus the comments made by MarkKay would hopefully be addressed.
Still trying to get more info on the Arca Swiss Rm3d device. From images I found of it, looks like it is substantially less precise and less sophisticated than the Flexicam.
Jack
[a href=\"index.php?act=findpost&pid=135411\"][{POST_SNAPBACK}][/a]
Hi
I'm also having a look at the flexicam and plan to switch from my flewxbody to the flexicam by the end of the year.
I really hope it is as well build as my Flexbody. The front element looks a bit weak IMHO.Tolerances with WA lenses are really small and this isn't a pancake-type of camera like Cambo, Horseman, ArcaR.
Price is a bit above 3000 Euro with the sliding back. The actuator to use V Hassy lenses is 800 Euro too, which seems very high for a tubus recocking the Zeiss lens shutter.
Silvestri say that you can't use lenses above 100 mm(too heavy?), which must be a bad joke, I have a 120 and 180mm V-Zeiss that just wait to meet the Flexicam.
If anybody had the chance to see this thing for real, I would love to hear some comments.
As for the Arca beeing less precise, don't know, for me it looks like a real contender for the best-build pancake camera. Really in the Alpa league i guess.
tom
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Award winning Rainer uses the brand Gottschalt?, made in Germany. I'd be curious to know what is upcoming from them. Would someone whose language is German contact them, please?
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Hi
I'm also having a look at the flexicam and plan to switch from my flewxbody to the flexicam by the end of the year.
I really hope it is as well build as my Flexbody. The front element looks a bit weak IMHO.Tolerances with WA lenses are really small and this isn't a pancake-type of camera like Cambo, Horseman, ArcaR.
Price is a bit above 3000 Euro with the sliding back. The actuator to use V Hassy lenses is 800 Euro too, which seems very high for a tubus recocking the Zeiss lens shutter.
Silvestri say that you can't use lenses above 100 mm(too heavy?), which must be a bad joke, I have a 120 and 180mm V-Zeiss that just wait to meet the Flexicam.
If anybody had the chance to see this thing for real, I would love to hear some comments.
As for the Arca beeing less precise, don't know, for me it looks like a real contender for the best-build pancake camera. Really in the Alpa league i guess.
tom
[a href=\"index.php?act=findpost&pid=135414\"][{POST_SNAPBACK}][/a]
I use a 180mm regularly on a Flexbody without problems, I've even used a 350mm Superachromat plus the x1.4 multiplier, although with this set up there were tripods on the lens and on the body.
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I use a 180mm regularly on a Flexbody without problems, I've even used a 350mm Superachromat plus the x1.4 multiplier, although with this set up there were tripods on the lens and on the body.
[a href=\"index.php?act=findpost&pid=135576\"][{POST_SNAPBACK}][/a]
You're right, no problem using all Hassy Lenses on the Hasselblad Flexbody.
Problems seem to appear with the Silvestri Flexicam that only takes lenses up to 105mm.
At the beginning I thought, the would mean LF-Digitars only, as they don't have focus mounts, and that it would of course be impossible to focus with telelenses on a small bellow camera. But they mean every kind of Telelenses above 105mm. I will definetly check this before buying the Flexicam. Well, let's get back on topic.
tom-
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But there's only a handful of LF cameras that actually deliver that precision, in fact I don't know one LF digital photographer who is satisfied with digital if they're using a camera originally designed for 4x5 film. An ultra rigid chassis, outstanding focusing screen/viewfinder arrangements, and fully geared controls manufactured to the highest engineering standards are absolute requirements for successful digital photography with a technical camera.
[a href=\"index.php?act=findpost&pid=135337\"][{POST_SNAPBACK}][/a]
Gary,
I too have the Flexbody and I use it primarily with the Hassie 40mm CFE IF lens. Frankly, the Flexbody does not meet what I'm looking for. First, I having a bear of a time with focus and second getting consistant results of sharp image from foreground to background is quite elusive.
You mentioned there are a handfull of camera that make the grade - what in your opinion are those?
I'm down to the Silvestri Flexicam, possibly the Arca Rmd3 if I can ever talk with someone who has actually used one. To my understanding the Cambo SW and the Alpha SWA do not offer tilt, which is what I'm really after so I can get my infinite focus on landscapes.
Jack
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Jack,
I was going to mention the Cambo Wide DS, but it looks as though you already have it on your list.
I would also look at the Horseman SW-D II Pro. Here is a link to show you what it is:
http://www.horsemanusa.com/digital/SWD2pro.html (http://www.horsemanusa.com/digital/SWD2pro.html)
Chris Lawery
Sales Manager
Capture Integration
www.captureintegration.com
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Jack,
I was going to mention the Cambo Wide DS, but it looks as though you already have it on your list.
I would also look at the Horseman SW-D II Pro. Here is a link to show you what it is:
http://www.horsemanusa.com/digital/SWD2pro.html (http://www.horsemanusa.com/digital/SWD2pro.html)
Chris Lawery
Sales Manager
Capture Integration
www.captureintegration.com
[a href=\"index.php?act=findpost&pid=135763\"][{POST_SNAPBACK}][/a]
Hi Chris,
Nice unit but it looks like it too is missing tilt features. Correct?
I'm after the tilt effect I could get when I had the Ebony 45SU, without all of the weight and mass of the 45SU. The old Sch. principal with tilt gave me the crisp focus from near to far in the image.
Best,
Jack
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Hi Chris,
Nice unit but it looks like it too is missing tilt features. Correct?
I'm after the tilt effect I could get when I had the Ebony 45SU, without all of the weight and mass of the 45SU. The old Sch. principal with tilt gave me the crisp focus from near to far in the image.
Best,
Jack
[a href=\"index.php?act=findpost&pid=135769\"][{POST_SNAPBACK}][/a]
Jack,
You are correct. The Horseman does not have the tilt feature, it can only rise and fall.
Thank you,
Chris Lawery
Sales Manager
Capture Integration
www.captureintegration.com
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As of this moment, it looks like only the Arca Misura and the Arca Rm3d are candidates that offer a decent range of movements and tilt yet are light enough to be backpacked. And frankly, I've not found enough info on the Rm3d to be sure about it meeting my needs.
Seeking other cameras that meet this criteria which I've missed - guidance is appreciated.
Jack
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As of this moment, it looks like only the Arca Misura and the Arca Rm3d are candidates that offer a decent range of movements and tilt yet are light enough to be backpacked. And frankly, I've not found enough info on the Rm3d to be sure about it meeting my needs.
Seeking other cameras that meet this criteria which I've missed - guidance is appreciated.
Jack
[a href=\"index.php?act=findpost&pid=135826\"][{POST_SNAPBACK}][/a]
Call ArcaSwiss directly regarding Arca Rm3d, I wouldn't rely on press anyways.
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This evening I've been studying the web site of Cambo and I'm starting to think I should abandon the notion that I must have lens board tilt to get the depth of field that I'm after in my landscape work.
Looking at the Cambo site, and conveniently an article on Arch. work in todays RAW news from Phase One, has me rethinking the approach I was pondering.
Looks like a Cambo SWD with 35mm lens gets exceptional depth of field.
Anyone have experience with this one for landscape work?
Jack
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For those who are pondering the same question of which camera body, I'm attached an Excel spreadsheet where I tried to gather some of the issues in a logic format.
Corrections, additions, etc. are appreciated.
Best,
Jack
I've tried three times to "Add this attachement". It indicates that the file was added but it does not appear.
Any suggestions? It's in standard Excel format.
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For those who are pondering the same question of which camera body, I'm attached an Excel spreadsheet where I tried to gather some of the issues in a logic format.
Corrections, additions, etc. are appreciated.
Best,
Jack
[a href=\"index.php?act=findpost&pid=137757\"][{POST_SNAPBACK}][/a]
The attachment is not visible -
Edmund
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Here is an attempt at cut/paste from Excel:
Camera Body Advantages Value to me Disadvantages
Alpa 12SW-35mm Vertical Shift - 25 mm Adaquite Very limited Vertical Shift
Horizontal Shift - None! Major disadvantage No Horizontal Shift
Tilt: None No Tilt!
Full Geared Operation Yes
Body Weight: 770 gramms or 1.7# Excellent
Body Size: w: 180mm/ 7.1 inches, h: 120mm/4.72 inches , d: 47mm/1.85 inches
Cambo WDS 35 Vertical Shift-+40/-20mm Excellent
Horizontal Shift-+20/-20mm Excellent
Tilt: None No Tilt!
Full Geared Operation Yes
Body Weight: 4.2#
Body Size: w: 8.5 inches, h: 8.5 inches , d: 4.75 inch
Arca Rm3d Vertical Shift-15mm Not much Unknown device no one has used/seen!
Horizontal Shift-20mm Excellent Not currently available
Tilt: +/_ 5 degrees Excellent reliable delivery date!
Full Geared Operation ?
Body Weight: 900 gramm or 1.984# Excellent
Body Size: w: 160mm/6.3 inches, h: 160mm/6.3 inches , d: 25mm/1inch
Alpa XY-35mm Vertical Shift - 70 mm Good Cost! Dealer would have to be negotiable!
Horizontal Shift - 50 mm Better
Full Geared Operation Yes
Body Weight: 2600 gramm or 5.73# Negative but weight of 35mm Schneider could be much less that Hassie 40CFE IF
Body Size: w: 220mm/8.7 inches, h: 290mm/11.42 inches , d: 40mm/1.58 inches
Arca Misura Vertical Shift-78mm Excellent
Horizontal Shift-70mm Excellent
Tilt: Orbix +/ 15 degrees Excellent
Full Geared Operation yes
Body Weight: 2.65 gramm or 5.84# Heavy!!!
Body Size: w: 18cm/ 7.0 inches, h: 20cm/7.87 inches , d: 24cm/9.45inch
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Here is an attempt at cut/paste from Excel:
Camera Body Advantages Value to me Disadvantages
Alpa 12SW-35mm Vertical Shift - 25 mm Adaquite Very limited Vertical Shift
Horizontal Shift - None! Major disadvantage No Horizontal Shift
Tilt: None No Tilt!
Full Geared Operation Yes
Body Weight: 770 gramms or 1.7# Excellent
Body Size: w: 180mm/ 7.1 inches, h: 120mm/4.72 inches , d: 47mm/1.85 inches
Cambo WDS 35 Vertical Shift-+40/-20mm Excellent
Horizontal Shift-+20/-20mm Excellent
Tilt: None No Tilt!
Full Geared Operation Yes
Body Weight: 4.2#
Body Size: w: 8.5 inches, h: 8.5 inches , d: 4.75 inch
Arca Rm3d Vertical Shift-15mm Not much Unknown device no one has used/seen!
Horizontal Shift-20mm Excellent Not currently available
Tilt: +/_ 5 degrees Excellent reliable delivery date!
Full Geared Operation ?
Body Weight: 900 gramm or 1.984# Excellent
Body Size: w: 160mm/6.3 inches, h: 160mm/6.3 inches , d: 25mm/1inch
Alpa XY-35mm Vertical Shift - 70 mm Good Cost! Dealer would have to be negotiable!
Horizontal Shift - 50 mm Better
Full Geared Operation Yes
Body Weight: 2600 gramm or 5.73# Negative but weight of 35mm Schneider could be much less that Hassie 40CFE IF
Body Size: w: 220mm/8.7 inches, h: 290mm/11.42 inches , d: 40mm/1.58 inches
Arca Misura Vertical Shift-78mm Excellent
Horizontal Shift-70mm Excellent
Tilt: Orbix +/ 15 degrees Excellent
Full Geared Operation yes
Body Weight: 2.65 gramm or 5.84# Heavy!!!
Body Size: w: 18cm/ 7.0 inches, h: 20cm/7.87 inches , d: 24cm/9.45inch
[a href=\"index.php?act=findpost&pid=137789\"][{POST_SNAPBACK}][/a]
Adrian check Silvestri's S5 micron:
30 + 30mm vertical shift, 30 + 30mm horizontal shift, 15º tilt and swing. Weight: 4Kg (ouch).
Also, sometime in September Fotoman's Dmax should become available: no tilt or swing, but 25mm vertical and horizontal shift in what doesn't seem to be an especially large body.
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"Adrian check Silvestri's S5 micron:
30 + 30mm vertical shift, 30 + 30mm horizontal shift, 15º tilt and swing. Weight: 4Kg (ouch).
Also, sometime in September Fotoman's Dmax should become available: no tilt or swing, but 25mm vertical and horizontal shift in what doesn't seem to be an especially large body. "
FOUR KILOS!!! NOT on my back hiking along mountain trails!
Key is to get the feature sets I originally defined without breaking the mules back (me).
Jack
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Hi Lust4life.
I do have a P45+ and a Cambo with Schneider 35 Digitar. It's a great camera.
I do a lot off shots with to horizontal shots stitched +/- 15 mm or 3 shot horizontal with the DB in "potrait" -15/0/+15mm. That makes some nice files ;-)
When using the 24 and 35 mm digital you need a centerfilter.
McRepsej
Denmark
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Hi Lust4life.
I do have a P45+ and a Cambo with Schneider 35 Digitar. It's a great camera.
I do a lot off shots with to horizontal shots stitched +/- 15 mm or 3 shot horizontal with the DB in "potrait" -15/0/+15mm. That makes some nice files ;-)
When using the 24 and 35 mm digital you need a centerfilter.
McRepsej
Denmark
[a href=\"index.php?act=findpost&pid=137889\"][{POST_SNAPBACK}][/a]
Are you finding that you can get near to far in excellent focus without having "tilt"?
Doing any landscape work?
Thanks,
Jack
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Hi Jack.
With landscape I don't have any problems. At F16 from about 2 meter and to far it's sharp. On monday you will get a link with some files.
McRepsej
Denmark
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Hi Jack.
With landscape I don't have any problems. At F16 from about 2 meter and to far it's sharp. On monday you will get a link with some files.
McRepsej
Denmark
[{POST_SNAPBACK}][/a] (http://index.php?act=findpost&pid=137935\")
McRepsej,
Looking forward to getting the link.
What lenses do you suggest for landscape work?
I'm thinking of the 35 mm, remotely the 28, but would also like something longer as well.
With the Hasselblad 503cw and P45+ my normal lens is the 40CFE and on occasion the 100 CFI. Have the 150 but almost never use it - need to get around to selling it and my Hassie Flexbody to help fund the purchase of the Cambo WDS.
Examples of my work can be found at my web site to give you an idea of what I do: [a href=\"http://www.shadowsdancing.com]My Webpage[/url].
For Pano images I use the Really Right Stuff Pano kit - works great. I frequently stitch two rows of 7 frame/row together. Will be curious to see if the Cambo shifts give me enough to do my Pano work and leave the RRS gear at home - doubt it.
Best,
Jack
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Jack,
Here's a link to a shareware program for calculating DOF for various types of digital cameras, film formats and various lens lengths.... including P45: http://www.stegmann.dk/mikkel/barnack/ (http://www.stegmann.dk/mikkel/barnack/)
I use a P45 with a Digitar 35, and find the results of calculator to be reliable. However, rather than use a circle of confusion of 0.03mm which would be typical for 35mm film, I use coc of 0.014mm, which is approximately 2 pixels. With this coc, Digitar 35 DOF calculates to be 9' to infinity at f/16 (hyperfocal distance of 18') and DOF of 13' to infinity at f11 (hyperfocal distance of 26'). I would also note that, to my eye, there is a very slight fall-of in sharpness from f/11 to f/16 with the Digitar 35, as it is optimizted at f/8 to f/11. There is a very noticeable fall off in sharpness from f/16 to f/22.
John
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Hi.
A link to a single shot from a Cambo DS Wide, PhaseOne P45 and Schneider 35 Digitar with centerfilter.
www.iversenfoto.dk/z/CF004943.zip
McRepsej
Denmark
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Jack,
Here's a link to a shareware program for calculating DOF for various types of digital cameras, film formats and various lens lengths.... including P45: http://www.stegmann.dk/mikkel/barnack/ (http://www.stegmann.dk/mikkel/barnack/)
I use a P45 with a Digitar 35, and find the results of calculator to be reliable. However, rather than use a circle of confusion of 0.03mm which would be typical for 35mm film, I use coc of 0.014mm, which is approximately 2 pixels. With this coc, Digitar 35 DOF calculates to be 9' to infinity at f/16 (hyperfocal distance of 18') and DOF of 13' to infinity at f11 (hyperfocal distance of 26'). I would also note that, to my eye, there is a very slight fall-of in sharpness from f/11 to f/16 with the Digitar 35, as it is optimizted at f/8 to f/11. There is a very noticeable fall off in sharpness from f/16 to f/22.
John
[a href=\"index.php?act=findpost&pid=138021\"][{POST_SNAPBACK}][/a]
Is there a Mac based equivalent to this little program for calculating DOF?
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Hi.
A link to a single shot from a Cambo DS Wide, PhaseOne P45 and Schneider 35 Digitar with centerfilter.
www.iversenfoto.dk/z/CF004943.zip
McRepsej
Denmark
[a href=\"index.php?act=findpost&pid=138489\"][{POST_SNAPBACK}][/a]
Thank you!
That effect is what I'm after - sharp focus from near to far - can you tell me what f stop you used, and did you use Hyperfocal for focusing?
Do you find the center filter to be essential on the Schneider 35mm or can CS3 do the job just as well? I hate to give up two stops if I can do it in CS3.
I have decided to go with the Cambo and the 35mm lens. Pondering a second lens -- ideal is to have this as my sole camera for all of my landscape work and not have to lug two different cameras around. With the Hassie I use the 40mm about 90% of the time and the 100mm the remaining time. Have yet to use the 150 that I have.
Thus, the 35 should be about right to replace the Hassie 40. Guess the 90 would do the same for the 100 I have. With this I'll sell off all of my Hassie gear.
Yesterday I was able to see a Cambo with 24 Schneider lens - it's weight was 5.75 pounds with cable, P45+ back, lens, ready to shoot. Figure the 35mm weight will be similar.
Jack
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Hi Jack.
I have used a f-stop between 11 and 16 and have used the hyperfocal for focusing.
Try without the centerfilter but you will found it necessary.
About the 24mm. Offcourse it could be fine with such a wide lens but there is allmost no rice and fall. With the 35mm you can stitch 2 horizontal shot to a panorama. At all I think you can use a lot more.
McRepsej
Denmark
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Jack,
Here's a link to a shareware program for calculating DOF for various types of digital cameras, film formats and various lens lengths.... including P45: http://www.stegmann.dk/mikkel/barnack/ (http://www.stegmann.dk/mikkel/barnack/)
I use a P45 with a Digitar 35, and find the results of calculator to be reliable. However, rather than use a circle of confusion of 0.03mm which would be typical for 35mm film, I use coc of 0.014mm, which is approximately 2 pixels. With this coc, Digitar 35 DOF calculates to be 9' to infinity at f/16 (hyperfocal distance of 18') and DOF of 13' to infinity at f11 (hyperfocal distance of 26'). I would also note that, to my eye, there is a very slight fall-of in sharpness from f/11 to f/16 with the Digitar 35, as it is optimizted at f/8 to f/11. There is a very noticeable fall off in sharpness from f/16 to f/22.
John
[a href=\"index.php?act=findpost&pid=138021\"][{POST_SNAPBACK}][/a]
Those DOF numbers would definitely be a problem for me, and tell me that I'm going to have to think long and hard about whether a MFDB system without tilt capability would work for me.
If I'm not mistaken 35mm on 645 MDFB is roughly equiv to 17mm on my D2x. At 17mm I usually have something in the composition a lot closer than 9 feet. I _might_ be able to live with that if that were the only focal length I were using. But probably a good half of my shots are in the 28-70mm range on APS-C, which would be roughtly 50-140mm with the MFDB. Even at f/16-f/22 those focal lengths are going to give me DOF problems especially on the longer end.
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Those DOF numbers would definitely be a problem for me, and tell me that I'm going to have to think long and hard about whether a MFDB system without tilt capability would work for me.
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I dont know how much your subjects move but here is an off the wall thought...
A multishot 11mp sensor has 35mm perspective and 33mp quality ?
Even a camera with a smaller sensor like the Aptus17 ?? will give files that beat any DSLR and can be used in conjuntion with nikon lenses like the 85TS and also like the hartblei super rotators or solutions from Mr zoerk
All in a non bellows package on bodies like the horseman digiflex or capturgroup nikon thingy
Also there is a harblei (TS 35) lens for mamiya cameras
S
S
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Hello all,
Just my 2 cents here but I have been shooting with the Silvestri Bicam II for three months now. It is an amazing camera. Before purchasing this camera, I had shot with the Cambo Wide DS, the Alpa camera and looked at the Horseman version. I came out with choosing the Silvestri for these reasons:
1. Up to 47mm, the helical mount lenses working quickly and perfectly. Although I did have to send my camera with my 35mm back to the retailer for calibrations. So be tenacious about testing your lenses when you get them to make sure everything has been calibrated correctly.
2. Larger than 47mm lenses, you can obtain a bayonet mount and use the maxi bellows attachment and use the camera as if it were a true view camera. The only thing is that you do not have rear standard tilts and swings, but I don't recall really ever using them when I was shooting film. The precision of focus on the maxi bellows is far superior to any traditional monorail view camera. I shot with that camera and also with a toyo view camera and found a significant difference in focus from the toyo to the Silvestri. So the ability to utilize the precision of large format optics to its fullest is possible with this camera system.
3. The camera is compact and yet it's all metal. The machining appears to be precise and feels solid.
4. This system has single shot and double shot sliding adapter for use. I am currently using the single shot (the double shot is being made for H mount phase system). It works very nice and if you have ever used the phase one adapter, you will be relieved at it's size and functionality.
5. I have an analogue nikor 75mm that was okay to shoot with on my toyo. Just to check it, I mounted it to my Slivestri. Even that lens became an acceptable lens to shoot digitally with. The ability of the camera to find the exact focus point was evident by this test. Now, shooting with analogue lenses is not ideal, but if you have them, it at least saves some money in the short run with a precise camera system like this. Which speaks to the value of this system. If you already have lenses, you do not have to ditch them for helical mounted lenses. You simply purchase the bayonet adapters, and you save some money.
So from my perspective, I would go for the Silvestri. I think it is a great solution to update large format photography in a digital world. I really cannot describe the joy I experienced to finally have moved beyond my traditional view camera that I shot film to a camera system that is precisely engineered and thus made for digital photography.
David
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To all the folks that offered their suggestions on this topic, Thank You. I appreciate the input.
I have decided that for my current needs the following is what I've ordered:
Cambo Compact with 35 and 90mm Schneider lenses, viewfinder, and the Schneider center filter for 35mm Digitar lens.
I've also ordered the Cambo WDS body to use the above lenses on for the occasions when I want movement.
To date, I've received the Compact, viewfinder and the 90mm lens. Balance will hopefully be here in a week or two.
Logic is:
The Compact unit will be excellent for just roaming the streets/woods and gathering images - of course must "guesstimate" the focal point distance.
The Compact is very light for my hiking into situations where rise/fall/shift are not needed - which frankly for my landscape work is most of the time.
The WDS will be used strictly for hiking or scenes where rise/fall/shift are needed.
In short, I'm hoping that the combo of the two bodies will provide two methods for me to create images. Frankly, I'm hoping the Compact will be able to meet most of my needs as I like it's small size and weight.
Time will tell if I find a need for a lens between the 35mm and the 90mm. I've hear the 47mm is an exceptional lens but I'll wait to see if it's a focal lenght I'll need when in the field shooting.
Again, thanks to all for your comments.
Best,
Jack