Luminous Landscape Forum
Equipment & Techniques => Medium Format / Film / Digital Backs – and Large Sensor Photography => Topic started by: Mike Sellers on January 25, 2016, 06:57:00 am
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I need to do some copy work on paintings up to 18x24 with my 645Z and would like to know which lens I should use?
Mike
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For that I use my 90 or 120 macro or when there is enough space my 200mm. I like the longer lenses for art work repro :-)
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I suggest you rent a multishot back (the Sinarback 54H comes to mind) and an APO lens if you don't have the appropriate equipment for the job...
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Just use your 645Z with a sharp macro lens and a custom made camera profile. The light and the way you use it will be at least as important as the lens or camera. I still use my 39MS and 528c multishot backs from time to time but would not hesitate to use any other camera. Always see on a decent monitor how colors work out on digital capture and how the paint reacts on tungsten, led or flashlight. :-)
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120/4 Macro for sure.
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your biggest problem with the 645z will be the color, if that is important. They are way off, lacking an integrated software solution like phaseone and Hasselblad offer.
I bought the huelight profiles, and now I use the dcamprof profiles provided in a thread on this forum. From there I adjusted according to my eye with color checker passport.
You might want to give the jpg a try.
If you do this for a customer, they will probably freak out :)
I'm not familiar with effects of focal lengths on reproduction. 120 is great.
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I have absolutely no issue with the 645z and color. I am very pleased with this camera.
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Dear dshelly, happy to hear that :)
What are you photographing and what is your workflow?
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I'm a commercial advertising photographer. I specialize in entertainment photography (film posters, publicity portraits), as well as print ads and editorials.
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...and which raw converter are you using? how you get the colors there right?
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I just found out datacolor Spydercheckr does support Pentax 645z.
x-rite colorchecker, which I'm used to, does not.
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...and which raw converter are you using? how you get the colors there right?
I work using the "Natural" picture style, and shoot DNG's. I import into Lightroom and make subtle adjustments. After, I do all skin-related post in Photoshop using the Frequency Separation technique.
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I work using the "Natural" picture style, and shoot DNG's. I import into Lightroom and make subtle adjustments. After, I do all skin-related post in Photoshop using the Frequency Separation technique.
What "skin related" has to di with painting reproduction that is the question in the o/p? P645 is just not the right tool for the job.
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What "skin related" has to di with painting reproduction that is the question in the o/p? P645 is just not the right tool for the job.
"Skin related" was in response to a previous question about my workflow.
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off topic, but I'm getting beautiful skin tones with the 645z, embedded profile, and mastin presets with a slight adjustment to them to remove a bit of red.
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It depends on the skin color. I work with many different mixed ethnicities here and some work better then others.
I get problems when raising the shadows usualy, some colors including red tend to get ugly, I did use a Pentax a few years ago and had simliar problems.
In general when shooting dng the embeded profile is better then the adobe, agree on that.