Luminous Landscape Forum
Raw & Post Processing, Printing => Printing: Printers, Papers and Inks => Topic started by: raymond bleesz on July 06, 2015, 10:52:01 pm
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In the past, the largest paper size I have been using has been Hahnemuhle baryta Harmon paper 13x19 on my Epson 3800 and have used dedicated frames for this size, matt board included.
I have ordered the above paper only one size larger which would be the 17x22 which I have never used before. Because of this sized paper, what are your recommendations for proper frame sizes with some degree of proper matt board included. Raymond
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It depends on how large you plan to print your image on that paper, what aspect ratio you intend to print them to, and what sized matt widths you want to see around your image. In other words, you've got to figure all those things out first, and then that will lead you to possible frame sizes.
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If using pre-cut mats and off the shelf frames is important, then printing 13" x 19" images on your 17" x 22" paper works well for framing with an 18" x 24" frame. This gives you a reasonable border with room to sign the print, and space at the top for hinges.
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In the past, the largest paper size I have been using has been Hahnemuhle baryta Harmon paper 13x19 on my Epson 3800 and have used dedicated frames for this size, matt board included.
I have ordered the above paper only one size larger which would be the 17x22 which I have never used before. Because of this sized paper, what are your recommendations for proper frame sizes with some degree of proper matt board included. Raymond
I custom cut my mats now so I go with what works best with the photo aspect ratio. You will find various frame sizes that will hold a 16x20 to 17x22 inch prints.
I've used 22 x 24, 22x26, 24x30 etc. My recommendations would be not to lock yourself into a specific aspect ratio for all your prints. Let the image dictate what aspect ratio it should be. And vary your mat dimensions for the same reason. Some times a thin mat looks good, sometimes a thick border. Some times symmetrical and some very not symmetrical. Also, the Epson 3800 and 3880 can print 17" wide in full bleed mode, but best quality is still obtained using 17" paper and printing within the margins.
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I saw this and tried it but it wasn't very satisfactory for my print. YMMV
http://www.russellcottrell.com/photo/centering.htm
Mike
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Google 'Matworks 1.2" Free! It will layout your mat dimensions and make mat cutting easier. You can center, bottom weight, and have various amounts of mat overlap (+ -).
If you like anodized aluminum frames, they are available in 1 to 2 inch increments so you can get just about any frame size that is non standard you want at a reasonable price.
Larry
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Be aware that the sites that offer matworks 1.2 will helpfully install lots of other stuff on you computer. I suggest you stay away from it
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I used an install from the developers website and had no problems. But I know what you mean, I installed an app and got a terribly annoying adware which was difficult to remove.
Larry
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Giorgio Trucco is the author of Matworks and appears to have disappeared from the web. Matworks is available from several "free" sites but they all appear to want to load your computer with lots of additional "useful(less)" software that can be a real pain to remove.
I had it on an older computer that died sometime ago and it was a useful program. I've looked for a clean download site and couldn't find one.
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Google 'Matworks 1.2" Free! It will layout your mat dimensions and make mat cutting easier. You can center, bottom weight, and have various amounts of mat overlap (+ -).
If you like anodized aluminum frames, they are available in 1 to 2 inch increments so you can get just about any frame size that is non standard you want at a reasonable price.
Larry
I usually work backwards since I print my own. I start with the frame, then figure out the mat and then print to size. This typically allows me to save some mat board because instead of cutting the standard 1/8" smaller on all sides, I can usually cut to a standard size and just print the print the extra 1/8th inch bigger on all sides (crop, not resize). The window that drops out of the mat will then usually be usable in another standard size frame. Obviously, this does not work with odd size frames, mats or prints.
I cut double mats all the time and it is relatively simple to get the numbers right if you take your time and think about it. I have a spreadsheet I use when cutting double and triple mats. But it doesn't show you what it will look like. Then again, once you do it awhile, you just know.
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Based on your 17x22 paper and assuming the image is maybe 1/2" in from the edge, a frame of 22x28 would work. That is a standard size you should be able to get.
You would then get 2 mats out of a 32x40 sheet of mat board.
One thing I agree with is to not lock your images into a standard size. Let your image tell you what it needs. You might want to crop the bottom third of the image to get a bit more drama and now it doesn't fit any "standard" size.
Find those frame companies who sell you frame sizes by the inch and get what the image needs.
When you present your work in a more professional manner, the customer will think that you ARE more professional than the next guy who has crammed his images into a frame that he uses because he can buy them by the box for almost nothing.
If the customer sees you in that way, he is more likely to go ahead and drop money for it. If he sees your image in a frame that isn't the right proportion, he knows he will have to redo the piece before he hangs it in his home... which means he will have to shell out even MORE money, making him pause and possibly walk on by without buying.
Scrimping on presentation leads to fewer sales.
As much as i think you should have a professional framer do ALL of your work ;D.. you can create a professional look with a bit more thought and planning than just "what's the next standard size frame to fit the paper".
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Based on your 17x22 paper and assuming the image is maybe 1/2" in from the edge, a frame of 22x28 would work. That is a standard size you should be able to get.
You would then get 2 mats out of a 32x40 sheet of mat board.
One thing I agree with is to not lock your images into a standard size. Let your image tell you what it needs. You might want to crop the bottom third of the image to get a bit more drama and now it doesn't fit any "standard" size.
Find those frame companies who sell you frame sizes by the inch and get what the image needs.
When you present your work in a more professional manner, the customer will think that you ARE more professional than the next guy who has crammed his images into a frame that he uses because he can buy them by the box for almost nothing.
If the customer sees you in that way, he is more likely to go ahead and drop money for it. If he sees your image in a frame that isn't the right proportion, he knows he will have to redo the piece before he hangs it in his home... which means he will have to shell out even MORE money, making him pause and possibly walk on by without buying.
Scrimping on presentation leads to fewer sales.
As much as i think you should have a professional framer do ALL of your work ;D.. you can create a professional look with a bit more thought and planning than just "what's the next standard size frame to fit the paper".
I thought that the frame should be minimal. I always thought that the frame was very personal. I put my work in simple white frame made of wood. It's. A very clean presentation and simple. It allows customer to pick out there own frame.
I was told that usually a buyer of art will change frame if they don't like it