I think a lot of people are getting lost in the trees here. Seems to me the premise is pretty simple.
1. If you are 2 stops underexposed (90%) you are using only 25% of your sensor data and effectively have thrown away 75% of your data; If you want to stop at the 97% level and don't want to go to the 99% level because it too risky you have discarded 50% of your sensor data - your choice! George Jardine documented this in his article referenced in the DiNatale's LuLa post (
http://mulita.com/blog/?p=3358#Tonal-Compression) -it's real no matter what camera or sensor or raw converter one chooses - it's the nature of current digital capture technology!
2. The article was written for someone using Adobe ACR and works fine with my Canon 6D. If you use something else your mileage may vary and you will have to work it out for yourself with your specific software and tools.
3. Can you get a "full range image with only 25%-50% of your data - sure if you are willing to accept the 25%-50% loss in YOUR shadow data areas. If no one pixel peeps in the shadows - they may never know what they are missing.
4. Before this article, I would have never thought that pushing the white rabbit in snow even further than classic compensation recommended would result in a better image, and shooting the black cat in a coal bin image so the image was medium grey or LIGHTER would have been total heresy - yet our modern raw converters can bring it back in spades!
5. As Mark absolutely correctly noted (reply #20): "For the modern RAW "digital negative" workflow this classic rule can be stated as just the reverse, i.e., "Expose for the highlights and develop for the shadows". "ETTR" is just another way of saying the same thing, and it's also how we had to expose color reversal film except that we had no real control over the development of the shadows with color reversal film. With todays RAW image editors we do." As
6. How you get there is just a technique and the methodology presented seems both technically correct and even if it appears somewhat simplistic, it is doable (With no additional equipment than what you already have) and very easy to automate using camera custom functions and Lightroom stacks where the only cost is 2 extra exposures using extra digital card storage space. One doesn't have to do it for every shot just the ones you want to have both maximum data and maximum preserved shadow quality.
7. I have spent the last 2 days going over the calibrations and field testing and all I can say is IT WORKS!
8. As they say, the proof is in the results.
Jpegman