I have an RX1r as my only full-frame sensor camera, and when packing lightly, I'd like to use it to stitch for shots wider than the 35mm lens. I have been looking at panoramic heads and such, but I'm a bit confused as to what I actually need to make it work. Here's what I know right now:
1) I have a RRS L plate/grip on the camera right now
Hi, that's a good start.
2) I would like to stitch both vertically and horizontally
Make sure if you need to stitch vertically, because that will add a few additional items. By placing the camera in portrait orientation you already get more vertical coverage. Depending on the scene complexity, you might also get away with only a horizontal no-parallax point (NPP) setup, and if need be just pitch the ballhead up for additional coverage and let the stitching software attempt to blend the row transition.
3) I am not looking for actual panoramas, just stitching enough 35mm shots to simulate a 14-20mm or so
If the camera in portrait orientation doesn't have enough FOV coverage, you may need to invest in additional components for a multi-row setup.
4) I have the tripod already, and an okay Arca-Swiss style ballhead...though, I am looking to upgrade this
5) I've read a bit about "No parallax point" on the RRS site, but I'm not sure I have a full grasp of necessary equipment yet
So, what else do I need?
This should get you going for high quality single row Panoramas:
Pano-Elements-Package-with-Screw-KnobIt's important to get the rotation plane on top of the stem of the ballhead. You may either replace the current clamp with the PCL-1 clamp or use an additional Dovetail adapter to mount the PCL-1 in the existing Arca style clamp.
The PCL-1 has been succeeded by the PCL Pro, but I couldn't find a package together with the MPR-CL II slide. You may also want to check with RRS if a shorter slide than the MPR-CL II would be better for your specific camera/lens combination, to stay out of the image.
Instead of the MPR-CL II you could also use a short bar and a
Mini Clamp Package, which creates a bit more flexibility for lenses with a no-parallax point that's very much towards the front of the lens. It's also a flexible component for stereo photography, because it allows to rotate the camera clamp in 90 degree increments, and thus allows to slide the camera sideways for two consecutive offset shots.
As said, creating a multi-row setup equires to add a number of components (the
Ultimate Omni-Pivot package). You may want to first try if a less complex solution suffices for a relatively modest FOV expansion.
Cheers,
Bart