True, but with a 1 degree spot meter you have to find the brightest area of the subject where you want highlight detail and then increase exposure by about 2.5 stops as Bruce Fraser suggested years ago. An automated system can't make that judgement for you but with 1005 readings and some threshold for neglecting specular highlights that can be blown, it should be able to come close.
Actually the beauty is that with a 1 degree spot meter we are back to the same simplicity as Ansel Adams!
It means that we as a photographer are in control for judging exact and precise where we wish to place the threshold for bright point (whether we prefer zone 0, I or II) and that we do not leave such decision to the automation meter in our camera. This is the ultimate full control.
Same as Ansel we also need to know what is critical for our exposure for the specific media we use, thus in our case how much above neutral is the bright point, and which is not dependent on Bruce Fraser's recommendation of 2.5 stops but on the performance of the specific sensor in our camera. Thus we need test sensor for this in order to be assertive. Thus indeed we SHOULD think of it like FILM, albeit the film in our camera being a sensor of an emulsion with DIFFERENT PERFORMANCE and CHARACTER than B&W film, slides or polaroids, all of which had different performances and characters. With digital we look primarily at bright point and a specific and large DR for our specific sensor.
Why neutral? This is what our aperture, shutter and the whole of stops and metering in photography is based upon.
Contrary to Ansel though, we do not necessarily need to scan a scene with the spot meter to find more points if we are lazy, which we could... if we wanted to determine also the other end of DR and want to evaluate the scene for intermediate, e.g. mid tone. Using a spot meter though, it happens we could essentially also put tape over our histogram..., low and behold