Looking at Induro PHQ pan head

[keith_cooper]

I've had an Induro PHQ-3 5 axis head on loan for a bit, and have written up some impressions on its use.

Hope it's of interest:

http://www.northlight-images.co.uk/reviews/accessories/induro_phq.html

I've used it on several recent commercial jobs, where it's been particularly useful with the TS-17mm shift lens on my 1Ds3

Inexpensive it isn't, but very nicely built...

[leuallen]

Well, I've tried them all. Currently an Acratech GV2, Manfrotto 410 geared, and the PHQ-1. The ball head is out for most of my work (landscapes and marcro flowers) because I need to control each axis individually. Otherwise a very nice head. Between the 410 and PHQ, I much prefer the 410 because very precise adjustments can be made. Drawback is that it is much heavier and larger. The PHQ would be a closer second except for one problem: when loosening to make a fine adjustment, the head 'sticks' and requires a little force to make movement. This force moves the head way off its original position and requires careful repositioning when all I wanted to do is a very small adjustment. This really annoys me. I also find it difficult to rotate to precisely where I want. One advantage of the PHQ over the 410 is when I position the tripod very low and use the center post in a near horizontal position. With the PHQ I can manage to get the vertical angle I need while the 410 does not make it unless I use an adapter. The sliding Acra plate is a bonus for macros. While it does not replace a macro rail, it does allow me to get just a little closer or farther from the subject without moving the tripod and messing up the composition. I am going to get a 4 or 6 inch rail to expand this capability.

As far a panoramas, it does not matter much because both my tripods have leveling bases. But I prefer the 410 because it is much easier to rotate precisely.

I always carry a large tripod with the 410 and a smaller, lightweight carbon fiber with the PHQ in the car trunk. If I am staying close to the car, the 410 wins. If I am moving farther afield, I take the PHQ. I am using m4/3 gear so the smaller head and tripod are satisfactory.

Larry

[keith_cooper]

Thanks for that

I didn't myself notice any undue stickiness in the one I was looking at - then again, apart from setting L/R shift for stitching, I don't need any great precision for the sorts of commercial work I do.

[uaiomex]

I'm waiting for Manfrotto to release a version of the 410 with the smaller quick release plate. To say the truth, I've been waiting for years. All my gear is set for the smaller kind. Tired of waiting.
Eduardo

Well, I've tried them all. Currently an Acratech GV2, Manfrotto 410 geared, and the PHQ-1. The ball head is out for most of my work (landscapes and marcro flowers) because I need to control each axis individually. Otherwise a very nice head. Between the 410 and PHQ, I much prefer the 410 because very precise adjustments can be made. Drawback is that it is much heavier and larger. The PHQ would be a closer second except for one problem: when loosening to make a fine adjustment, the head 'sticks' and requires a little force to make movement. This force moves the head way off its original position and requires careful repositioning when all I wanted to do is a very small adjustment. This really annoys me. I also find it difficult to rotate to precisely where I want. One advantage of the PHQ over the 410 is when I position the tripod very low and use the center post in a near horizontal position. With the PHQ I can manage to get the vertical angle I need while the 410 does not make it unless I use an adapter. The sliding Acra plate is a bonus for macros. While it does not replace a macro rail, it does allow me to get just a little closer or farther from the subject without moving the tripod and messing up the composition. I am going to get a 4 or 6 inch rail to expand this capability.

As far a panoramas, it does not matter much because both my tripods have leveling bases. But I prefer the 410 because it is much easier to rotate precisely.

I always carry a large tripod with the 410 and a smaller, lightweight carbon fiber with the PHQ in the car trunk. If I am staying close to the car, the 410 wins. If I am moving farther afield, I take the PHQ. I am using m4/3 gear so the smaller head and tripod are satisfactory.

Larry

[leuallen]

Eduardo, I grafted the smaller quick release  to the larger plate. It was not difficult. I used 1/4" aluminum plate to gain clearance for the smaller release at the bottom.

I use the smaller quick releases on everything - I must have 10 of them. I hate screwing things together. The releases are on my macro rails, heads, flash brackets, etc. I can snap things together quickly.

For my flower pictures, just the slightest adjustment can make quite a difference.

Here is a trick with the 410. A flower swaying gently in the breeze (left/right not to/fro), enough to throw the composition off. There are brief periods when it is not moving and a sharp picture can be taken but it never stops in the same position. Using the articulated LCD I follow the flower by turning the rotation knob back and forth keeping it in composition. When the flower pauses, I pause a second to let vibrations die down the then click the remote release. Works well in certain situations.

Another trick with 410. With articulated LCD positioned so I can see it easily and with 1/3 grid lines on (GH2), I do this for panoramas. Note a prominent feature in the image which is near a vertical grid line. Using the same twisting motion on the rotation knob, count how many twists it takes to move the feature to the same position on the next grid line. Then start the panorama, twist the required number of times for the next exposure, check the LCD, pause for vibration to die, and fire. Using a new feature repeat until finished. I can complete six or eight exposures in a matter of few seconds. This gives a 1/3 overlap which is good. I was going to buy an expensive rotator but figured what would it gain me. Note that most of my panoramas are with long lenses so the number twists is usually between two an six. With a wide lens it might be a little tiresome and the number of twists goes up significantly.

Larry

[uaiomex]

Thank you Larry. I've thought about doing it but I'm not that much of a machinist. Can you post some pics of your contraption?
TIA
Eduardo

Eduardo, I grafted the smaller quick release  to the larger plate. It was not difficult. I used 1/4" aluminum plate to gain clearance for the smaller release at the bottom.

I use the smaller quick releases on everything - I must have 10 of them. I hate screwing things together. The releases are on my macro rails, heads, flash brackets, etc. I can snap things together quickly.

For my flower pictures, just the slightest adjustment can make quite a difference.

Here is a trick with the 410. A flower swaying gently in the breeze (left/right not to/fro), enough to throw the composition off. There are brief periods when it is not moving and a sharp picture can be taken but it never stops in the same position. Using the articulated LCD I follow the flower by turning the rotation knob back and forth keeping it in composition. When the flower pauses, I pause a second to let vibrations die down the then click the remote release. Works well in certain situations.

Another trick with 410. With articulated LCD positioned so I can see it easily and with 1/3 grid lines on (GH2), I do this for panoramas. Note a prominent feature in the image which is near a vertical grid line. Using the same twisting motion on the rotation knob, count how many twists it takes to move the feature to the same position on the next grid line. Then start the panorama, twist the required number of times for the next exposure, check the LCD, pause for vibration to die, and fire. Using a new feature repeat until finished. I can complete six or eight exposures in a matter of few seconds. This gives a 1/3 overlap which is good. I was going to buy an expensive rotator but figured what would it gain me. Note that most of my panoramas are with long lenses so the number twists is usually between two an six. With a wide lens it might be a little tiresome and the number of twists goes up significantly.

Larry

[leuallen]

Eduardo, here are some images of the conversion. The small release is offset 1.5" to bring the center of the lens over the center of the tripod column. Seems to work OK as panoramas rotated about this config turn out fine.

The plate is 1/4"x2" aluminum, length to suit. You need a hacksaw, file, 1/4-20 tap and corresponding drill, and a countersink for the flat head screw. Of course, a drill. And a 3/8-13 flat head screw to attach the small release to the plate (the small release had a 3/8 tapped hole in its center with a 1/4 conversion bushing-I used the 3/8). This is where the countersink is used. Stuff all available at most large hardware stores (Home Depot, Loewes, etc) in USA. Probably similar in other countries except you would be dealing with metric threads and sizes. Take the parts with you to the store so that you get the correct screws.

My equipment is light so the single screw (1/4-20, supplied with larger release, there is also a 3/8 version) is enough to hold the plate securely so that it does not rotate. If you like you could use another small screw between the plate and large release.

I have an additional unadapted large release I can use if I don't want the small release.

Larry

[uaiomex]

Excellent Larry. Good pictures. I will evaluate the conversion from here.
Thank you so much.
Eduardo

Eduardo, here are some images of the conversion. The small release is offset 1.5" to bring the center of the lens over the center of the tripod column. Seems to work OK as panoramas rotated about this config turn out fine.

The plate is 1/4"x2" aluminum, length to suit. You need a hacksaw, file, 1/4-20 tap and corresponding drill, and a countersink for the flat head screw. Of course, a drill. And a 3/8-13 flat head screw to attach the small release to the plate (the small release had a 3/8 tapped hole in its center with a 1/4 conversion bushing-I used the 3/8). This is where the countersink is used. Stuff all available at most large hardware stores (Home Depot, Loewes, etc) in USA. Probably similar in other countries except you would be dealing with metric threads and sizes. Take the parts with you to the store so that you get the correct screws.

My equipment is light so the single screw (1/4-20, supplied with larger release, there is also a 3/8 version) is enough to hold the plate securely so that it does not rotate. If you like you could use another small screw between the plate and large release.

I have an additional unadapted large release I can use if I don't want the small release.

Larry