Luminous Landscape Forum
Equipment & Techniques => Cameras, Lenses and Shooting gear => Topic started by: Michael H. Cothran on March 27, 2012, 03:07:08 pm
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Does anyone have the scuttlebutt on this head? B&H states it's no longer in production, and Adorama/Amazon state having only two in stock, as if that's it once they're gone. I cannot find a website either.
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Best head I have ever owned for landscape and architecture.
Smooth, well machined and very accurate.
Have owned it for 5 years and has never given me even an ounce of trouble.
Just checked B&H, they still have it in stock under an alternate number.
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Great discussion on LuLa here, along with alternates to the "Cube": http://www.luminous-landscape.com/reviews/accessories/magic-box.shtml
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They have a little known website but its only in french http://www.magasin-arca-swiss.com/
If you e-mail them, however they speak english but with a french accent ;)
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Rod Klukas is Arca-Swiss' USA representative. His contact info is here: http://rodklukas.com/arca-swiss/
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Does any one know if the panning rotation on the top of the cube can be removed and mounted on the bottom of the cube?
Marc
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I am pretty sure there is a panning mechanism in the base of the Arca-Swiss C1 (AKA "Cube"). I don't have one in front of me so I can't say for sure. If not, I have a Foba BALTO ( panning base) that will work if you are interested.
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Couldn't you just get a panning base and then mount it on top of a plate with a big enough screw?
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Does any one know if the panning rotation on the top of the cube can be removed and mounted on the bottom of the cube?
Marc
Cube already has two panning points, one at bottom and one at top.
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Thanks Jeff, that's what I thought.
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"In Stock" and Arca Swiss are somewhat opposite terms.
However the Cube is still very much a current product, is still produced, and is a great head for those shooting landscape, architecture, interiors, or still life. It's basically everything you could want from a tripod head for that application other than price :-).
As an Arca Swiss dealer we have Cubes come in and out of stock. You can call around to the various Arca Swiss dealers of repute (two advertise on this site in fact, including us) and ask if they have any in stock. If not, best bet is to place your order with your preferred dealer and know that you may be waiting for a few months.
Here is an article I penned while working (formerly) at Capture Integration:
http://forum.getdpi.com/forum/medium-format-systems-digital-backs/12056-just-fun-truly-objectionable-cube-porn.html
It should give you a taste at just how cool the cube is :-).
And yes, to confirm the earlier question: it does have a pan mechanism both on the top and bottom.
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you should see what I've done at times with RRS bars and pano bits- it makes your Cube stack look square.
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I do see now where B&H has the head listed elsewhere, and in stock.
Two Questions -
1. Is the head available with either a screw-knob tightener or QR lever? I see pictures of both online, but no dealer seems to offer one or the other.
2. With the QR lever, has anyone used a RRS camera plate? Is it a good tight fit?
Thanks.
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Regarding 2), I'm using the Arca Swiss D4 which I think has a similar QR with RRS plates. The clamp is adjustable and it works, but:
1) I would much prefer an RRS lever type QR
2) The Arca Swiss QR doesn't clamp with the same force as the RRS clamp.
The RRS clamp is American, you know, more like a Hummer than a Porsche.
Best regards
Erik
I do see now where B&H has the head listed elsewhere, and in stock.
Two Questions -
1. Is the head available with either a screw-knob tightener or QR lever? I see pictures of both online, but no dealer seems to offer one or the other.
2. With the QR lever, has anyone used a RRS camera plate? Is it a good tight fit?
Thanks.
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I do see now where B&H has the head listed elsewhere, and in stock.
Two Questions -
1. Is the head available with either a screw-knob tightener or QR lever? I see pictures of both online, but no dealer seems to offer one or the other.
2. With the QR lever, has anyone used a RRS camera plate? Is it a good tight fit?
Thanks.
To add to what Eric wrote:
1) The default is the Arca-Swiss lever model. check with http://www.rodklukas.com as he is the USA distributor/representative.
2) The fit is secure and locks down just fine but as I've written elsewhere , I am no longer a fan of the A-S lever lock. I like that it is adjustable width but I do not like that the nut on the width adjustment bolt isn't captive. In general I am not a fan of lever locks, even the RRS one.
Also see Lloyd Chambers' comments on the Arca-Swiss C1 and clamps @ http://diglloyd.com/articles/Recommended/tripod-head-ArcaSwissCube.html
That is exactly how I would set mine up.
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Thank you for these past responses. That's exactly what I need to know. Referencing the RRS clamp, is there any reason NOT to use the QR lever version as opposed to the Screw-knob version, seeing that I would have a RRS clamp in place?
Note - I read Lloyd Chambers info on the link Ellis provided. Thanks for that. It's hard to believe that one would pay $1700 US for a tripod head to begin with, but add insult to injury by having to replace the clamp...But that said, I already have the clamp, but would need the #6 metric screw.
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After a while I decided to go back to RSS lever after using Arca Classic (screw type) that came with my D4. I'd posted a few about how the Classic was just fine, but I started to miss my RSS. There's enuf twisting of knobs on a gear head as it is.....
It's a super simple operation. I think I used the original Arca 6mm screw. Just had to shorten it about 2 or 3mm which I did with a cheapy little belt sander. Could've used the 6mm screw that came with the RSS but that would have meant some sawing. Almost certain it'd be the same deal with cube. Seen pictures of that either here or at getDPI.
Here's a couple quick ones of the ReallyRight B2 LRII on the D$. It's a little lower, a little lighter and not as pointy as the Arca Classic, and it's every bit as solid if not more so. The jaws are quite a bit more robust than the ones Arca has come up with to clamp both their new style and old style plates. Not like the Arca is weak, it's just that I like the RRS better.
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Hi,
How did you remove the original screw? What tool did you use and how much force was needed to unscrew?
Best regards
Erik
After a while I decided to go back to RSS lever after using Arca Classic (screw type) that came with my D4. I'd posted a few about how the Classic was just fine, but I started to miss my RSS. There's enuf twisting of knobs on a gear head as it is.....
It's a super simple operation. I think I used the original Arca 6mm screw. Just had to shorten it about 2 or 3mm which I did with a cheapy little belt sander. Could've used the 6mm screw that came with the RSS but that would have meant some sawing. Almost certain it'd be the same deal with cube. Seen pictures of that either here or at getDPI.
Here's a couple quick ones of the ReallyRight B2 LRII on the D$. It's a little lower, a little lighter and not as pointy as the Arca Classic, and it's every bit as solid if not more so. The jaws are quite a bit more robust than the ones Arca has come up with to clamp both their new style and old style plates. Not like the Arca is weak, it's just that I like the RRS better.
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Erik's review of the Arca-Swiss D4: http://echophoto.dnsalias.net/ekr/index.php/photoarticles/53-arca-swiss-d4
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Hi Eric,
Thought you'd be interested, based on postings we did some 8 or so months ago. Sorry I was so slow to post back.
It's just a metric hex wrench AKA allen key/wrench. Pretty sure it's 3.5mm which can be a little hard to find in N. America, but a good hardware store will have one.
I used just the right amount of force to remove the Arca ;)
Actually it didn't require any excessive force at all. Just about what I expected. No sign of lock-tite. It is a stainless screw threaded into aluminum, so it's not going to be over-tight due to the danger of stretching the threads. And that's a good thing to remember when putting the RRS on: don't over-tighten. It's a somewhat shallow set of threads that are engaged.
There is an anti-rotate pin in the D4 top pan that will fit into a large recess in the B2 LRII, and if you rotate the new clamp counter-clockwise until it stops before tightening, it will do it's job of preventing any possible rotation of clamp on the base that could lead to loosening.
Go ahead and do it! You've been wanting to for a long time.
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Hi,
I'm going to find a 3.5 mm allen key. Thanks for the tip, especially about Arca not using Loctite.
Actually, I don't hate the Arca QR, but I guess that I will be more lucky with an RRS.
Best regards
Erik
Hi Eric,
Thought you'd be interested, based on postings we did some 8 or so months ago. Sorry I was so slow to post back.
It's just a metric hex wrench AKA allen key/wrench. Pretty sure it's 3.5mm which can be a little hard to find in N. America, but a good hardware store will have one.
I used just the right amount of force to remove the Arca ;)
Actually it didn't require any excessive force at all. Just about what I expected. No sign of lock-tite. It is a stainless screw threaded into aluminum, so it's not going to be over-tight due to the danger of stretching the threads. And that's a good thing to remember when putting the RRS on: don't over-tighten. It's a somewhat shallow set of threads that are engaged.
There is an anti-rotate pin in the D4 top pan that will fit into a large recess in the B2 LRII, and if you rotate the new clamp counter-clockwise until it stops before tightening, it will do it's job of preventing any possible rotation of clamp on the base that could lead to loosening.
Go ahead and do it! You've been wanting to for a long time.
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I used a narrow walled socket head and wrench instead of an Allen wrench/key to remove the bolts on my Arca-Swiss p0 and p1 heads. I am fairly sure that the bolt on the C1 and D4 is the same.
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Ellis,
The bolts are different, unfortunately. Anyway I have a 3.5 mm hex key on order.
Best regards
Erik
I used a narrow walled socket head and wrench instead of an Allen wrench/key to remove the bolts on my Arca-Swiss p0 and p1 heads. I am fairly sure that the bolt on the C1 and D4 is the same.
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After an unfortunate accident with my Arca QR Clamp, I elected to replace it with a RRS screw type clamp.
I was driving to the racetrack in Death Valley. The road vibration loosened the clamp and the screws, nuts and springs fell apart in the back of my vehicle. Needless to say, it took me hours to try to salvage a bad situation. After that, I swore that I would never use one of the Arca QR clamps again.
Here is a picture of what I now use.
(http://i42.tinypic.com/2vjrmea.jpg)