Luminous Landscape Forum
Raw & Post Processing, Printing => Printing: Printers, Papers and Inks => Topic started by: JohnBrew on July 16, 2008, 07:20:05 am
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I've been printing with the Harman Gloss FB Ai since it came out. I love the way my BW comes out and the color prints are special also. I'm printing 8 1/2 x 11, 13 x 19 and 17 x 25. The problem I'm having is that on the larger size prints, after matting and framing, are exhibiting waves in the surface when viewed at an angle. Is anyone else having this problem and if so what are you doing about it?
Thanks for all replies.
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I've been printing with the Harman Gloss FB Ai since it came out. I love the way my BW comes out and the color prints are special also. I'm printing 8 1/2 x 11, 13 x 19 and 17 x 25. The problem I'm having is that on the larger size prints, after matting and framing, are exhibiting waves in the surface when viewed at an angle. Is anyone else having this problem and if so what are you doing about it?
Thanks for all replies.
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Do you let your prints dry before matting/framing? I've not printed larger than A4 yet.
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Simple solution, mount your prints. If heat mounting is not an option, try some double-sided adhesive, it can be used with a hand roller.
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Sounds like a humid environment, have seen it with many papers. Go with the drymounting option and save the headache.
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I have the same problem with prints on the paper (I love the paper especially for B&W printing). It's the nature of the paper unfortunately. I agree with dry mounting also, but I do like to corner mount and I wish Harman would do something with the paper base to make it stiffer---much like the Epson Exhibition paper base or even Museo silver rag base (which doesn't buckle). Eleanor
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I do quite a bit of framing and have found that waviness can sometimes be a factor of the paper (too thin -- for instance Photo Rag 188) as well as the tape you use and the pressure of the backing board and technique.board.
Firstly, you should only use archival artist's tape along the entire top of the art work (photo). This is because it allows for expansion and contraction of the paper within the frame, based on conditions. (Personally, I've never liked mounting photos, maybe because I've screwed up too many, and in the process, trashed the print.) Once in a while, I've put small pieces of tape on the two lower corners, but you really aren't suppose to. The thing that greatly regulates the flatness is the backing. acid-free corrugated cardboard works, though I prefer archival foamboard. With the cardboard, you can also add a another piece of mat board. The key is stiffness, which with larger frames is harder to achieve. Finally, use the artist tape to seal the edges of the frame and backing to keep everything in place not just relying on the points. Also, use quality acrylic/plexi instead of glass -- actually has higher reduction of UV than standard glass.
Your waviness is a factor of solid contact and stiffness in your framing, not (usually) the paper. Harman is good heavyweight paper, so should be alright.
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...larger size prints, after matting and framing, are exhibiting waves in the surface when viewed at an angle....
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Since I did not mount silver prints either, I've seen this for decades.
My solution is inspired by Rodney Dangerfield-
Don't look at it like that.
Tyler
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Since I did not mount silver prints either, I've seen this for decades.
My solution is inspired by Rodney Dangerfield-
Don't look at it like that.
Tyler
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Funny! I've started to use the 3M PMA but it's a real PITA. May just go to spray adhesive. Thanks to all of you for your responses. You know, for a 320 gsm paper this shouldn't happen. I'm wondering what kind of problem I'll have when I go to a 16 x 32 print?