Luminous Landscape Forum
Equipment & Techniques => Medium Format / Film / Digital Backs – and Large Sensor Photography => Topic started by: BJNY on December 23, 2007, 11:11:04 am
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I'd like to know how Hasselblad H3D users are liking their 28mm lenses in regards to sharpness to the corners; distortion; falloff; and color cast / LCC. Are most of these things corrected in software automatically? Comparison to Digitars, etc. would be interesting, too. Thanks in advance for any replies.
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Perfect. I use it with the H3D 39 and i am more than happy with this lens. It is so well corrected with the DAC controls in Flexcolor. It is sharp, very even, no distorsion (maybe the pixel doctors will find some), very good contrast and very nice color rendering.
Before I have tested/used my P25 with an Alpa SWA / Schneider 24XL / 38 Biogon and the results were great, too - but only after applying different lens corrections in extra production steps.
I like the Hasselblad solution much more because it is so easy to handle. Mount it, take a look through the outstanding H viewfinder und you are hooked. And the results are gorgeous.
This is IMO the best example for getting real advantages from a so called "closed system".
But try /rent one before you buy. It works fine for me, maybe not for you.
Hope it helps.
Merry X-Mas
jørn
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<deleted>
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Thank you jorn + Derek for the helpful info.
Please post or private message a JPG if you're comfortable.
With appreciation,
Billy
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I echo all the positive thoughts above. Even wide open, mine is incredibly sharp in the centre with slight fall off in the corners on subjects really close to the lens. Move away from the subject, ie only a few metres, and the whole lot is sharp from f5.6 up. I haven't tested properly for diffraction yet but it doesn't seem very notceable at f22. Obvioulsy depends on the subject. It handled shots into the sun well this morning too.
Colour and contrast are well matched with the 210 and 50-110 zoom and the DAC corrections are just awesome - dead accurate and so fast. Even fall off is controllable with a slider in flexcolor. It was one of the reasons I went with the Hass (H3D39mk2): the closed system has really hacked off many people but for me it works brilliantly.
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No need to make an exposure through plexiglas, etc.
to correct magenta/green?
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I've used the 28mm on a H3D-39 since May and I shoot exclusively architecture. The lines are scary straight. I do an incredible amount of lasso outlining for my images and my photo style, the straightness has saved me big-time time. Prior to the Hasselblad, I did use the Phase One on a Rollei with tons of time spent for the infamous, uncorrectable, green-magenta shifts. Not with the 28mm on a Hassy. No plexi, just great color.
After a day running through the standard sharpness tests, I've stuck with F/8 and F/11 strictly with the 28mm. F/16 is almost acceptable, while F/22 is not. F/5.6 is not something for architecture, so I can not vouch for the 5.6.
The bad? Flare on the H3D is causing considerable retouch time. I've actually lost a few shots. Not a good situation at all, with questionable remedies.
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The bad? Flare on the H3D is causing considerable retouch time. I've actually lost a few shots. Not a good situation at all, with questionable remedies.
[a href=\"index.php?act=findpost&pid=162782\"][{POST_SNAPBACK}][/a]
Does the new IR filter remedy this?
BTW, I appreciate everyone who's chimed in, proving how helpful professional forums can be.
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Does the new IR filter remedy this?
I have not seen it with my own eyes but yes, the IR filter on the H3DII will remedy this, according to those in the know. I hope so, and I hope they actually do offer it to H3D owners as well. It has been promised for a very long time. Too long. That's the questionable part.
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Does the new IR filter remedy this?
[{POST_SNAPBACK}][/a] (http://index.php?act=findpost&pid=162787\")
Seems to. Like I said, I took some shots into the sun and no problems with flare, and I had no hood on (not that it would help much if the sun/light source is viewable through the lens) and no UV or other filter on. Tried a few angles, all fine. Crap shots mind you, but it was only a test! There were a couple of shots somewhere here on LL showing the difference between the mk1 and mk2 - into some spots - and the difference was quite dramatic.
Edit: here's the link: [a href=\"http://luminous-landscape.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=21722]http://luminous-landscape.com/forum/index....showtopic=21722[/url] Scroll about half way down.
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Next up...
The 28mm's filter size is 95mm. Which Polarizer, and other filters are you all using?
Thanks again.
Happy holidays everyone.
Billy
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Next up...
The 28mm's filter size is 95mm. Which Polarizer, and other filters are you all using?
Thanks again.
Happy holidays everyone.
Billy
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Heliopan Circular
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<deleted>
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For the 35mm HC I was using the 95mm B&W polarizer. However, since i wanted to use the polarizer with some ND filters, I went with the Lee 4x6 and 4x4 system. If you buy the correct holder you can attach an adapeter that allows you to screw in a 105mm polarizer
Heliopan Circular
[a href=\"index.php?act=findpost&pid=162918\"][{POST_SNAPBACK}][/a]
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MarkKay,
Any reason why not the 4x4 Polarizers for the Lee holder?
Thanks,
Billy
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I have never used one of these but i suspect the problem would be using the 4x4 polarizer in combo with a graduated ND filter. How would you independently position both filters?
MarkKay,
Any reason why not the 4x4 Polarizers for the Lee holder?
Thanks,
Billy
[a href=\"index.php?act=findpost&pid=162956\"][{POST_SNAPBACK}][/a]
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Check out this Schneider-made polarizer:
http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/4285...Polarizing.html (http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/428504-REG/Schneider_65023741_95_mm_Circular_True_Polarizing.html)
I wonder if it performs differently than the often-recommended B+W Circular Polarizers?
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Check out this Schneider-made polarizer:
http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/4285...Polarizing.html (http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/428504-REG/Schneider_65023741_95_mm_Circular_True_Polarizing.html)
I wonder if it performs differently than the often-recommended B+W Circular Polarizers?
[a href=\"index.php?act=findpost&pid=162973\"][{POST_SNAPBACK}][/a]
I shot a series along the New England coast with the HCD 4/28mm lens and a 95mm B+W Circular Polarizing filter and experienced considerable dark vignetting in the resulting images. I have a question into Hasselblad Support to get their take.
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hasselblad today has announced a 55x40mm (almost film-format) chip in 2009 in a mail.
i wonder what my hcd28 is good for with such a sensor?
bernd
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55x40 would that be the same Dalsa sensor as in the P65+ ?
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55x40 would that be the same Dalsa sensor as in the P65+ ?
[a href=\"index.php?act=findpost&pid=222462\"][{POST_SNAPBACK}][/a]
could be so.
that would mean kodak is out of business in mfdb?
bernd
p.s.: don´t ask me for more details. i just heard it in the flexframe forum, but even though i´m a registered hasselblad user i did not get the mail.
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Kodak's 31MP sensor is in the P30+, H3dII-31 and now the Sinarback eSprit65;
And I believe the sensor in Hasselblad's H3dII-50 is from Kodak, too.