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Author Topic: Iran - Easter 2015  (Read 5008 times)

dreed

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Iran - Easter 2015
« on: April 12, 2015, 12:06:58 pm »

Because there is very little known about Iran from a landscape perspective and because there is a chance accessibility to Iran may change this year, I'm going to write a little..

Travel to Iran is easy - except you cannot currently use Expedia or similar American websites to get flights to Tehran. Dubai (Emirates), Rome (Air Italia) and Frankfurt (Lufthansa) all appear to be current places you can fly into Tehran from. Booking flights direct with airlines' websites is preferable to Expedia & co.

Getting into the country is complicated. Getting a VISA before helps but they can also be acquired at the airport.

Staying there and getting about is complicated. Current sanctions mean no SWIFT and thus credit cards don't work once you are there. Some websites appear to allow booking hotels online but I wasn't able to make that work - therefore all hotels were paid for in cash. As was my driver. I don't advise driving there unless you are accustomed to driving in places where road rules are ignored by nearly everyone all the time (except speed.) One website I read said that Americans, Canadians and UK'ers all needed an Iranian tour guide 24x7.

Once all of that is sorted there is a language barrier. Hoteliers will speak English and some of the younger generation. The food is awesome. The toilets require a different way of thinking but I'll summarise it like this: if you've got a muddy car do you (a) use a hose to clean it and then dry with a towel or (b) get a dry rag and clean it? The western approach to toilets is (b). The Iranian approach is (a). All good hotels have modern toilets. Many roadside places just have squats.

In terms of photographic destinations, I've only had a look at a few places around Tehran. The geology of northern Iran is suggestive of a rich location for landscape photography. Tehran is ~1500m above sea level.

Rising to 5,610m (18,410') is Mt Damavand - a 2 hour drive from Tehran (see pic #1. The road ("highway" 77) that connects the southern side of the mountains with the nothern area bordering the Caspian Sea is quite scenic and would easily qualify as a AAA scenic drive were it in the USA. I should have been able to get a setting full moon in the attached image except that the driver took a wrong turn and we were over an hour late! He thought he knew better than Google Maps directions (printed out in Persian) ... sigh.

Quite a few more hours drive east is a place called "Badab Sort Springs". Most of the journey there can be done by car but if you want to get there at sunrise (and beat the tourists - mostly Iranians) then a short walk is required up the last 500m or so. (See pic #2) This area kind of reminds me of Mammoth Springs (Yellowstone) except that rather than there being white ledges, there are red-orange ones and the water is cooler (no visible steam.) There are no barriers to keep you off anything so it is therefore necessary to exercise good judgement as to where you put your feet and tripod so as to not do any damage to the natural features.

More interestingly is an area northwest of Tehran - about an hour's drive up "highway 2" from Zanjan:  Google Earth to 37° 7'13.97"N,  47°37'41.21"E. See pics 3 & 4. I have not had any time to explore this region - my driver was more conscious of when the hotel's breakfast finished than me spending time on site photographing!

There are other places closer to Tehran where there are good examples of earth being pushed up in strange ways - the drive along Amirkabir Lake (~2 hours from Tehran) being another. This is just scratching the surface - the deserts to the south also appear to be rich in subject material.

One thing that I found is that the Iranians seemed to know very little of the areas that I found with Google Earth and wanted to visit. I didn't see any support for tourists at any destination I visited aside from the locals with trucks that turn up around 10am at Badab Sort Springs to take people up there.

So if you're interested in photographing some interesting landscapes and looking for alternatives to the American Southwest, maybe this is worth a look - definitely if the economic issues get resolved. I'd attach more pics but post limit is 4...
« Last Edit: April 12, 2015, 12:40:27 pm by dreed »
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Chairman Bill

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Re: Iran - Easter 2015
« Reply #1 on: April 12, 2015, 01:17:12 pm »

Great photos. Iran is one of the few places in the middle east that I'd really like to visit. If it could just get shot of the mad mullahs ...

luxborealis

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Re: Iran - Easter 2015
« Reply #2 on: April 12, 2015, 06:12:58 pm »

Wonderful travelogue and photos. I look forward to seeing more, especially as Iran is so "demonized" here in the West. It's easy to forget that there is a beautiful country behind the mask of media reports and many millions carry on "life as usual" albeit a life different from our choosing, perhaps.
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Eric Myrvaagnes

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Re: Iran - Easter 2015
« Reply #3 on: April 12, 2015, 11:59:29 pm »

Excellent images. Please post more! The second one is really unworldly.

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HSakols

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Re: Iran - Easter 2015
« Reply #4 on: April 13, 2015, 12:51:33 pm »

Thanks for sharing these photographs.  What an intriguing landscape that is mysterious and ancient. My first impression was that of a Star Wars Set. 
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Jeremy Roussak

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Re: Iran - Easter 2015
« Reply #5 on: April 13, 2015, 05:26:39 pm »

Lovely set: more, please!

There was an Iranian member here a couple of years ago, who posted some wonderful stuff. I can't remember his name, sadly.

Jeremy
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francois

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Re: Iran - Easter 2015
« Reply #6 on: April 14, 2015, 04:18:58 am »

Lovely set: more, please!

There was an Iranian member here a couple of years ago, who posted some wonderful stuff. I can't remember his name, sadly.

Jeremy

Damon Lynch posted some stunning work here (click on the "Iran" image). There's more on his website.
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Francois

dreed

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Re: Iran - Easter 2015
« Reply #7 on: April 14, 2015, 06:25:02 am »

IRAN2.jpg (from Badab Sort Springs) was taken with a Panasonic GF7 rather than the full frame DSLR that was hung over my shoulder. Why, you might ask?  Because I reached down and took it very low to the ground using the movable mirror on the back so that I could look down into the screen rather than try to squat on the ground (and get dirty!) and look through a view finder of a regular mirror based camera. This was my first trip with a mirrorless and in that situation, it saved me a lot of trouble.

Above I mentioned Amir Kabir Lake (or dam.) The rock strata around that lake is amazing and I would love to have had more time to work with it. As can be seen in the last of these three images, the rock strata has become close to vertical. Both 5 & 7 are of the same area of rock but with different weather overhead and a different angle. The horizontal "line" (or lines) show the "lake full" level as well as levels it has filled to in the past,
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bernie west

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Re: Iran - Easter 2015
« Reply #8 on: April 14, 2015, 06:32:19 am »

That geology is incredible!

I was going to detour to Iran during my recent trip to India, but in the end it was all going to be too hard (and too expensive for my limited budget).  I would love to wander around there and eastern Turkey.
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Mjollnir

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Re: Iran - Easter 2015
« Reply #9 on: April 14, 2015, 09:43:42 am »

I've long thought about going to Iran, and your post just rekindled my interest.  I googled "landscape photography Iran" and there is a LOT there to see.

Nicely shot, btw.
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BradSmith

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Re: Iran - Easter 2015
« Reply #10 on: April 16, 2015, 06:48:14 pm »

I thought the title of this thread was a joke.

I'm sorry guys, but about every third or fourth night on American TV news, I get to watch Iranians (and Iranian leaders) chanting "Death to America".  And then last night, I watched an interview with an Iranian guy who is apparently famous in Iran for always being in the front section of the Mosque and being photographed leading the chants.  It was said that his Iranian TV nickname was Loudmouth. He expanded his repertoire for the interviewer, to include "Death to Canadians", "Death to British", "Death to French" and of course, the ever popular, "Death to Israel."

Perhaps, just perhaps, there are some safer locations on this planet for Westerners to just wander around taking pictures.  Or maybe you, too, want to be in the news.

And by the way, the landscape looks lovely.

Brad
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bernie west

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Re: Iran - Easter 2015
« Reply #11 on: April 17, 2015, 12:01:35 am »

The news thrives on generating emotion and tension.  It's not a balanced view of the entire country.  I can see footage of people in England chanting the same thing.  Would you avoid England because of that?
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dreed

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Re: Iran - Easter 2015
« Reply #12 on: April 17, 2015, 07:36:07 pm »

...
Perhaps, just perhaps, there are some safer locations on this planet for Westerners to just wander around taking pictures.  Or maybe you, too, want to be in the news.

I had absolutely no safety issues in Iran and just one "taxi rip-off" issue - but I've also had that in Italy and China - that others I met there called up the hotel and wanted an explanation as to why I got scammed by a taxi that the hotel had arranged.

Considering that penalties in various middle east countries is quite severe for things like theft, the bag over your shoulder is probably safer in Tehran than it is in London and various other places around Europe. Further, because alcohol is a forbidden substance, if you're out late at night you don't have to worry about drunkards walking home from the local pub, etc.

However the "just wander around" part has to be done sensibly: avoid borders with Iraq, Syria, Afghanistan and Pakistan. Not even the people I met there would go within 10 miles of those borders and had stories to tell of what it takes to get deliveries of just basic foods in there. That part is just smart. Similarly in summer you probably don't want to wander around during the day because it gets really hot.

Quote
And by the way, the landscape looks lovely.

Brad

Indeed it is.

And I've just scratched the surface.

"Iran8" is from the newly built "Nature Bridge" in Tehran, looking north to the Alborz mountain range. I was looking for sunset reflected on the clouds and was totally deceived by a "dark few minutes" during which I walked off, only to look up, see colour but by the time I'd gone back, it was pretty much gone.
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Philmar

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Re: Iran - Easter 2015
« Reply #13 on: May 01, 2015, 03:03:50 pm »

I'm sorry guys, but about every third or fourth night on American TV news, I get to watch Iranians (and Iranian leaders) chanting "Death to America". 

Then stop watching American TV news and find a more reliable news source. 

Msphoto

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Re: Iran - Easter 2015
« Reply #14 on: May 01, 2015, 04:49:39 pm »

Rick Steves bravely did a one hour episode on Iran a few years ago. Here's a link to it. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=D61uriEGsIM

If one's only perceptions of Iran are formed from watching most US media coverage you end up with a cartoon version of the country that is far from balanced.
Obviously Iran has it's human rights problems, as do places like China, Myanmar, Egypt, and Saudi Arabia, etc. though they don't seem to get the same degree of negative coverage.

If one were only to visit and photograph countries whose politics we totally agree with, that would likely be a pretty short list of destinations. :)
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