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Author Topic: newbie paper question- how are weight and texture important after framing?  (Read 2524 times)

gchappel

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I have just begin printing with my new ipf8400- great fun so far.
I have printed for years with a 3880, but have just recently been interested in printing and displaying prints.  Fairly large for me, most are 20x30. 
I am also just beginning to print on matt papers, especially epson hot and cold press natural.  Trying test rolls of breathing color pura smooth and velvet.  Also the cheaper epson enhanced matt.
Once I have the prints matted and framed, sometimes behind acrylic sometimes without glass,  I find it difficult to appreciate the differences in papers- and the textures I like so much when I hold a print.
My family cannot tell the difference between papers even when I ask, after framing.
So my question is- what paper qualities actually make a framed and matted image look "better" or "richer."
You can not feel the weight- so does a heavier paper actually look heavier or deeper?  I love the feel in my hands- but I can not feel it behind acrylic.
I like the textures, but these are also much less obvious when someone is looking at a framed 20x30 print from 4+ feet away.
I am not expecting my prints to survive until the sun burns itself out, so 100yr archival capabilities are not my goal.
Am I overthinking this?  But at least from my early testing the differences between papers seem to essentially vanish once the paper is encased in a frame and hung on the wall.
Thoughts??
Thanks
Gary

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bill t.

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It's almost this simple: there are two kinds of papers.  Papers that kink from reasonably careful handling, and those that don't.  Once you hit about 13 or 14 mils, kinking is not much of an issue.

However, if you like random, low frequency textures as on Fine Art Baryta and many quality matte art papers, that takes fairly thick papers to support the generation of those textures during manufacture.  In that case thickness earns its keep.

My main objection to both thick and/or high gsm roll papers is that they have curl issues toward the end of a roll.

In the case of Canon iPF series, thick, stiff roll papers can also develop a pretty good curl in the curved path just before the printhead if they are parked in that position for a period of time.  It's a nuisance to have to either discard 8 inches of paper, or do an in-printer decurl, or unload then reload the media between prints, one of which you should do to avoid head swipes at about the 7 inch position.  With printers that have straighter feed paths, the main problem is that it's simply a nuisance to handle curly prints, except toward the end of the roll where head swipes are a problem with all printers, especially at higher altitudes where the available hold-down suction is reduced compared to sea level.  None of that's a problem with reasonably thin papers.

IMHO, there is simply no excuse for thicknesses above 17 mils, or weight above about 300 gsm.  Unless you are selling prints to people who like to feel them rather than look at them.  But don't listen to me, I coat, mount, and frame almost everything as soon as I can can after printing.  Bare prints are the Devil's playground.
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gchappel

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Thanks Bill, simple and makes sense.
Gary
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AFairley

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Using framing with coated glazing such as Tru-Vue Museum or AR glass will greatly reduce glazing reflections that let the paper surface come through more clearly.  I am currently trying printing on smooth matte paper because of the surface reflections that you can get on baryta papers which sort of obviates the advantage of the coated glazing.
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Rob Reiter

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To better appreciate a textured paper once the print is framed, consider not matting right up to the edge of the image. Leave a revealed border of half an inch or more (which also gives you room to sign the print.) Or don't overmat at all; float the print in the frame and use a wider border to give a sense of separation of the print and the backing board. In that case, on a 20x30 image, a border of 1-2 inches will certainly allow a view to appreciate the paper choice (although maybe not from a distance of 8-10 feet.)

I sometimes print on a beautiful textured paper, hand-made with soft natural deckled edges (Awagami Bizan, available from Freestyle Photographic-just be sitting down when you read the price!) Floating these sheets in a nice frame produces a unique product whose attractions are visible from any appropriate viewing distance.

Today's choices of inkjet papers harkens back to the early days of photography, before commercially coated papers were available. Photographers picked whatever fine art papers they liked and applied emulsions themselves. And there are a lot of textured papers that we can choose from now. Not every image benefits from texture, but for the right picture, it can enhance the emotion impact of your work, as traditional artists in other mediums have known forever.
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gchappel

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Very helpful thoughts. Glad I asked as I never thought of leaving a paper border.
My continued thanks
Gary
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bill t.

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Think back to the last time you saw a photo that really knocked your socks off, preferably before a time when you had become sophisticated about presentation issues.   Do you remember the texture, or matting style, or the frame?  The things you can remember are the ones that are most important.

Present the image in a simple, confident, non-fussy manner, that's all it takes in the framing department.  Less is more because it will allow your print to step forward rather than forcing it to peek out from behind multiple distractions in its glass sarcophagus.  And make that print as rich looking as possible, with no small amount of color and/or tonality, but only if you want to sell it.  The job of framing should be to isolate your image from the surrounding decor, which may include walls enormously bigger than your piece.  A presentation issue that matters 10 times more than framing is how well the piece is placed for viewing, and how good the light is.  Maybe 100 times.  Use the money you save on framing to buy some good track lights.
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gchappel

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Bill, great minds think alike.  I am looking at lighting.
I am looking at track lighting with solux bulbs. 
I am also looking at one of the art hanging system that have built in lighting. 
Thanks so much for your guidance.
Gary
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