16-35 f/4 VRII vs the 24-70 f/2.8

[rhynetc]

I have the D800 and 24-70 f/2.8 and I've noticed that on a tripod I get really sharp captures but hand-held I don't do so well.  I'm wondering whether the 16-35 f/4 would help me with the hand-held shots (primarily travel photography) since it has VRII.  And advice from those of you who have used bothe lenses?

[Hans Kruse]

I have the D800 and 24-70 f/2.8 and I've noticed that on a tripod I get really sharp captures but hand-held I don't do so well.  I'm wondering whether the 16-35 f/4 would help me with the hand-held shots (primarily travel photography) since it has VRII.  And advice from those of you who have used bothe lenses?

For my D810 I use a Sigma 24-105 f/4 OS and when I'm not using the tripod for my landscape work I will set the camera on auto ISO and I always get sharp pictures. Of course one need to keep an eye on the ISO chosen by the camera and compensate with aperture as needed.

[rhynetc]

Thanks, Hans.

[dwswager]

I have the D800 and 24-70 f/2.8 and I've noticed that on a tripod I get really sharp captures but hand-held I don't do so well.  I'm wondering whether the 16-35 f/4 would help me with the hand-held shots (primarily travel photography) since it has VRII.  And advice from those of you who have used bothe lenses?

I'm almost 51 years old and shoot a Nikon D810 with the 24-70mm f/2.8 and I get sharp results.  VR is helpful handheld if you are shooting static subjects down under 1/50th or so.  Remember too that the 24-70mm is exceptionally long and heavy for that focal length range.  Much easier hand holding something like an 85mm prime even the 24-85mm f/3.5-4.5G.

And I agree with that Auto ISO is a great invention.  Not sure exactly how implemented on the D800, but I usually have it set at 64.  Then max ISO at 3200.  And Minumum shutter speed set to Auto with the adjustment set one notch to the faster side.  But even so, mostly I shoot Aperture or Manual this way.  For casual shooting, not much loss on the D800  from base 100 to 800.

[rhynetc]

Thanks, dwswager.

I haven't tried auto ISO - maybe that's the key to my problem.  It's certainly cheaper than another lens!

[BernardLanguillier]

Another vote for auto-iso.

The Nikon implementation is best in class. For static subjects, you can automatically link the minimum shutter speed to the actual focal length, which is fantastic when using a zoom lens. A -1/-2/+1/+2 bias can also be dialed in.

I typically configure my D810 do that the minimum shutter speed is one stop faster than the inverse of the focal length.

It will give 1/50th at the 24 end of a 24-120 and 1/250 at the long end.

Simply brilliant design.

Cheers,
Bernard

[armand]

Another vote for auto-iso.

The Nikon implementation is best in class. For static subjects, you can automatically link the minimum shutter speed to the actual focal length, which is fantastic when using a zoom lens. A -1/-2/+1/+2 bias can also be dialed in.

I typically configure my D810 do that the minimum shutter speed is one stop faster than the inverse of the focal length.

It will give 1/50th at the 24 end of a 24-120 and 1/250 at the long end.

Simply brilliant design.

Cheers,
Bernard

Is that with VR enabled?

[dwswager]

The Nikon implementation is best in class. For static subjects, you can automatically link the minimum shutter speed to the actual focal length, which is fantastic when using a zoom lens. A -1/-2/+1/+2 bias can also be dialed in.
Cheers,
Bernard

And the D810 will do Auto ISO in Manual mode which is not universal and a rant from LuLa.  Not sure if the D800 does or not.

Auto ISO In Manual Exposure Mode (They Just Don’t Get It)

Auto-ISO capability is now pretty much universal. But several manufacturers disable it in Manual exposure mode. This is nuts!

I shoot in Manual much of the time. I set the shutter speed to the minimum that I think is needed for the given focal length that I’m using as well as the actual shooting situation. I set the Aperture for the desired depth of field and to optimize IQ. I then expect the camera to ride the Auto-ISO and set the required sensitivity to expose each shot properly. With many cameras now offering clean images up to as high as ISO 3200, or even higher, this is a strategy that works well much of the time.

But many cameras don’t allow this. Go to Manual mode and Auto-ISO becomes disengaged. Why? Why? Some makers get this right, so why can’t the others?

[Jack Hogan]

(They Just Don’t Get It)

I agree with that particular rant, but I am amazed at how many people in the know still misunderstand the 18% thing.

[BernardLanguillier]

Is that with VR enabled?

No.

Cheers,
Bernard

[Hans Kruse]

I have the D800 and 24-70 f/2.8 and I've noticed that on a tripod I get really sharp captures but hand-held I don't do so well.  I'm wondering whether the 16-35 f/4 would help me with the hand-held shots (primarily travel photography) since it has VRII.  And advice from those of you who have used bothe lenses?

For casual shooting where the goal is to get the shot but IQ is secondary, I will often set the Nikon D810 to auto ISO as mentioned (and ISO at 64), and also I set exposure compensation to -1. I would even sometimes set the auto focus to continous (AF-C) and 3D and continous shooting with either Qc og Ch. Qc because the shutter and mirror flap is much quieter (actually more quiet than the shutter alone in the A7R). When I import into Lightroom I will select all images in the grid view (library module) and then click the 1 stop increase button in Quick Develop. Then all exposures are normalized for metering and this is equivalent to ISO 128 as the sensor is practically ISO less. For higher ISO the quality will not be less than if shot with EC=0 since increasing exposure in pp is basically the same as raising ISO by 2x in camera. Since the shutter speed is bounded shooting auto ISO the ISO will be lower and minimum 64. Only in cases where EC=0 would be ISO 64 is there a small loss by shooting at EC=-1. Setting the minimum shutter speed relative to use of VR or not and testing this you can assure that you will have  pictures that sharp and not blurred due to shake of your hands. Why AF-C? Well I have the shutter button not to focus, so when there is moving objects and I want to track on faces I point to the faces and recompose and the AF-C with 3D will continue to track the face I have selected. When I shoot still objects I will push the AF-ON button and get the focus and then take the shot. Since AF-C is very precise it also serves as AF-S with back button focus. That's how I always shot my wild life pictures regarding focus also with my Canons. Why EX=-1? To avoid blown out highlights. There can still be some cases, but it is very rare that highlights that matter are blown out at that setting. When you know highlights could be a problem and there is plenty of light you could go to EC=-2 and then increase by 2 stops in pp. I will typically use the A setting, but manual will work equally well as long as you pay attention to the ISO's selected by the camera. I find that A is better since the aperture is very important as DOF control and the shutter speed anyway is bounded by the auto ISO settings.

Some like to do everything manual. My style is quite the opposite. Shoot in a way so you don't need to change settings on the camera and check each exposure. Concentrate on getting the shots and compose and then select the good and successful shots behind the computer screen. Good luck.

[rhynetc]

Thanks, Hans.  And thank you to each of the respondents who clarified the use and capabilities of auto-ISO for addressing the issue I originally raised.